3D add on kits possibility?!?

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tripletopper
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3D add on kits possibility?!?

Post by tripletopper »

I bought my PlayStation 3D TV at exactly the right time when it was $180 new in December of 2012.

That's when I noticed 3D hatred became big enough where all the big 3D TV makers decided to premiumize 3D and put them on the more expensive models instead of putting them on Johnny lunch pail models.

I told Dad to wait until they come up with a 3D add-on kit for current 2D TVs.

Sega proved it was possible with the Sega Master System Sega Scope 3D.

I heard that any TV works as long as the shutter synchers know when beginning of the frame starts.

That's why all 3D TVs with shutter glasses had to be integrated so that it could get the timing right.

I think I have theorized a way to turn any 2D TV into 3D TV. I know the bits and pieces have worked before in other technologies and I'm just assembling the pieces together in my mind.

Is it correct to assume that once you figure out how to get the "start of TV frame signal" synced up with the output of the TV display and not the output of the signal generation, then everything else should fall into place.

Is it correct to assume that 95%+ of the problems with 3D TV using shutter glasses is mis-timing.

If so I think I got an idea of how to do it and I submitted the idea to Bulbhead because I think it is probably one of the cheaper ways to do it and more accurately to do it.

The other idea I had was not as practical is an aftermarket polar shield tinting service to turn any TV into a polar 3D TV. Unfortunately the polar tint supposed to be made for specific model, it is not as simple as hooking up a few wires and therefore needs a professional screen tinter.

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Guig2000
Binocular Vision CONFIRMED!
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Which stereoscopic 3D solution do you primarily use?: S-3D Projector Setup
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Re: 3D add on kits possibility?!?

Post by Guig2000 »

Well, no it's just part of the work, even on glasses side.

Outrun 3D on SEGA master system ran, it's true, but like all TV 3D tek of this time, the experience was well, "suboptimal" and was source of joke. The flickering on 60Hz, and worst, 50Hz TV was unbearable.

Whatever If you plan to use it with a playstation 3 or 4 or any bluray3D reader, it will not work, because they:
1°) need to know that your TV is 3D capable.
2°) will not output frame sequential but frame packed 3D signal.
To achieve this two things, the TV require to have a 3D capable HDMI input chip with 3D capability listed into it's EDID rom.

You could circumvent this issue by using a device capable to convert hdmi frame packed 3D into frame sequential. Like maybe this one: https://3dvision-blog.com/tag/frame-pac ... equential/ or https://www.hdfury.com/product/hdfury-x4/ and I'm not sure the products are good.

Of course, you can achieve frame sequential output with a PC.

Default video stream on hdmi runs at 60Hz or 24Hz, which if you plan to use alternate Right/Left frame is really sub-optimal -> you will have flickering.
Personally I suggest to use 85Hz at worst, leading to 96HZ/100Hz/120Hz or 144Hz for more standard frequencies.
-> so your TV need to be capable to receive this signal.

If your TV is 60Hz but you still want to try 3d on it, the LCD panel will probably be way to slow. Indeed old crt TV and monitors, plasma TV, DLP projectors can display a picture instantly and switch entirely to a new one 100 times per second, but for a LCD panel it's far to be an easy task. When a LCD panel display a picture, the previous one is still remnant. So that in 3D it will not switch fast enough from a picture to the next, leading to ghosting ( you can see left picture on right side and vice versa). Some glasses from 3D systems dedicated to LCD display (i.e. 3D vision) have a trick to partially compensate: they can block the light simultaneously on the two eyes, waiting that the pixels stabilize on the LCD panel. But it lead to a much darker picture. An other method is on the LCD Monitor/TV, on each picture, to swich off backlighting until last moment and then switch on for a very short time, when the pixels are the more stabilized, with very high power/light intensity to compensate the short time.

Also you may have another issue on some displays: While ideally for 3D, a LCD panel should switch all pixels quite simultaneously, some may display new pixels pixel by pixel, line by line or block by block. Meaning that the screen is continuously switching pixels, and you can't find a time where they're all stabilized. In this case, you can achieve low ghosting only on a part of the screen.

You can decrease a lot the ghosting by using interleaved video signal instead of progressive, at native lcd resolution (ie 1080i instead of 1080p for a full HD TV). Combined with frame sequential 3D, it will makes that odd and even lines of pixels will be dedicated to left or right view . The price is a dimmer picture and half resolution per eye (1920*540, exactly like when you use a polarized panel with passive glasses).
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