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 CyberVillains take at a HMZ Ski goggle frame mod 
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Petrif-Eyed

Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:36 am
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Brantlew made the suggestion that I put up my work in the DIY section, so here goes.

First I stripped the optics from that horrible nightmare Sony calls a casing (Its for people exercising sadomachosism)
I based my disassembly on this vid, that guy however does a bit backward, removing the PCB and stuff that you do not need to remove, so just use it as a reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wx0SqIZRbDI&lc

The result (This is the part I will call the "optics" in the future)
Image

The controls are at a separate board, which makes it convenient, but the problem is that the cable is way to short, I have yet to come up with a good place to mount this on
Image

After that I used a dremel to make a cutout for the optics in the Ski goggles glass, i made it a close fit so that as little light as possible will slip in, this makes it easier when you make the light blockers for the gap between optics and glass. If I ever make a version 2 i will lower the optics a couple of millimeters, as it is now the ski goggles has to be a little too low on the nose to get focus.
Image

The hardest part was to get a good and stable mounting base, I ended up fizzing one in a CNC rig out of 2mm Aluminum. If you use the original screws the material thickness has to be 1.1mm for the screws to take, but it cant me much thicker than that otherwise the screws will be too short.
CAD blueprint
Not in the blueprint is the holes for the L-brackets that will mount the base plate to the goggle glass, this will differ from taste and goggles so you have to do this yourself

I painted it with a matte black spray paint, here's the final result, the CNC rig used is a cheap China one and it left some marks on the piece but its ok for the purpose
Image

A early prototype version showing how it looks mounted, I choosed oval holes so you can have variable distance form eyes to optics
Image

To block out most of the light and also eliminate reflections I spray painted the glass with the same matte black paint, the result looks very nice
Image

From the inside you can really see the difference in reflection. At the top I have some unpainted glass showing the difference
Image

Whats left to fix is light blockers for the gap between optics and glass, I plan on using some kind of black rubber mounted to the optics, this way the rubber will follow when you change the pupil distance.

I'm also going to make the unit mobile by replacing the 220Volt PSU with a DC-DC one, I have bought the regulator and fixed a heat sink for it (Required for currents greater than 2A)
Image

Whats left todo on the battery mod is to buy a female connector for the Sony box that fits my 12Volt 3A power brick, I also need to buy a male connector in the same format for my 11.1Volt Lipo battery that I'm going to use to power it when I want to stay mobile

Update: 2012-06-30
DC to DC power mod finnished, tested both with 3A 12Volt power brick and 11.1V Lipo battery, i used all 6 connectors because the pins were so thin so i wanted to be sure that the maximum current of 3A would work without making the conector to warm (If i only used 2 connectors this could happen)
Image

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Last edited by CyberVillain on Tue Dec 30, 2014 10:50 am, edited 3 times in total.



Fri Jun 29, 2012 2:32 am
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One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 3:52 am
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Nice one, It wasn't hard to find this post after all.
I'll be looking in to modding my HMZ-T1 in a similar way, but i'm going to try to use the stock frame as best as i can until i'm convinced it just won't work.

I think i'm going to need to cut the nose piece out a little wider though... so hard to breathe through my nose when that thing is on my head :/


Fri Jun 29, 2012 4:01 am
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Petrif-Eyed

Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:36 am
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Seagon wrote:
Nice one, It wasn't hard to find this post after all.
I'll be looking in to modding my HMZ-T1 in a similar way, but i'm going to try to use the stock frame as best as i can until i'm convinced it just won't work.

I think i'm going to need to cut the nose piece out a little wider though... so hard to breathe through my nose when that thing is on my head :/


If you cut the stock casing you will void warranty with a ski goggle mod you can restore it to original if needed for selling or warranty. Also, with the ski goggle mods you can use any headset instead of the stock crap, with the stock casing that gets hard because of the way its designed.

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Fri Jun 29, 2012 4:36 am
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One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 3:52 am
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Yeah, you are right. I just took my HMZ apart just now. removed the linked slider system and put it back together without headphones (Also, the white cap is still loose as i need some bands)
I found out that the nose piece isn't too small for my nose after all, it just seems as such cause of the weight of the original model.
Secondly, I'm going to custom fit some adjustable elastic straps on the side and maybe (if needed) on the top.
I'll also take apart old motorcycle goggles for the sealing foam and mount it around the edges where the glasses meet my face, this will automatically remove the need to use the light blinds.

Thanks loads for the inspiration Cyber (also, i tried finding ski goggles on short notice, but i wasn't anywhere near a sports equipment store today hehe)

Now just to figure out what to do with the "inactivity switch"... maybe just tape it down or keep the head cushions on there


Fri Jun 29, 2012 6:21 am
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Petrif-Eyed

Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:36 am
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Seagon wrote:
Yeah, you are right. I just took my HMZ apart just now. removed the linked slider system and put it back together without headphones (Also, the white cap is still loose as i need some bands)
I found out that the nose piece isn't too small for my nose after all, it just seems as such cause of the weight of the original model.
Secondly, I'm going to custom fit some adjustable elastic straps on the side and maybe (if needed) on the top.
I'll also take apart old motorcycle goggles for the sealing foam and mount it around the edges where the glasses meet my face, this will automatically remove the need to use the light blinds.

Thanks loads for the inspiration Cyber (also, i tried finding ski goggles on short notice, but i wasn't anywhere near a sports equipment store today hehe)

Now just to figure out what to do with the "inactivity switch"... maybe just tape it down or keep the head cushions on there


Ebay has loads of goggles my one thats a good fit for the optics is a Smith scope pro. I tried to find a connector for the switch, but didnt find one and dont want to alter the stock cable so will probably just tape it like you suggested

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Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:53 am
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One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 3:52 am
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Ok, i'm about to give up on the initial design. The weight issue just sticks, though i keep parts of the original shielding which makes it more difficult to pull the front weight up by countering with a head band.

About your goggle design by the way, did you also find a good spot to mount the menu and power buttons?


Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:31 am
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3D Angel Eyes (Moderator)
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Very cool. Can't wait to see this finished.

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Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:06 pm
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Petrif-Eyed

Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:36 am
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@cr thanks man

Seagon wrote:
Ok, i'm about to give up on the initial design. The weight issue just sticks, though i keep parts of the original shielding which makes it more difficult to pull the front weight up by countering with a head band.

About your goggle design by the way, did you also find a good spot to mount the menu and power buttons?


No thats one of the things i have left to fix, im thinking about just using som sort of L-bracket and mount it to that

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Sat Jun 30, 2012 4:32 am
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Petrif-Eyed

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DC to DC power mod finnished, tested both with 3A 12Volt power brick and 11.1V Lipo battery
Image

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Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:28 am
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Petrif-Eyed
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Quote:
DC to DC power mod finnished, tested both with 3A 12Volt power brick and 11.1V Lipo battery


Nice. An often overlooked, but important mod to make this device mobile. After using the ST1080, I'm convinced that this HMZ-T1 ski-mod + DC power will be the best mobile gaming platform currently available. Maybe Sony will get inspiration for a second version of their hardware.


Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:52 am
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Petrif-Eyed

Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:36 am
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Yeah, its a mystery why they didn't choose a DC power source, but its good that the PCB takes 5.6V only, it would have been much harder if it needed 3.3V too (I can see on the PCB that it has an internal 3.3V regulator)

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Sat Jun 30, 2012 2:59 pm
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Golden Eyed Wiseman! (or woman!)

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This is looking great! Will really be amusing if CV manages to make an ergonomic HMZ-T1, after Sony's failure to do so...!


Sat Jun 30, 2012 7:49 pm
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Petrif-Eyed
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WiredEarp wrote:
Will really be amusing if CV manages to make an ergonomic HMZ-T1, after Sony's failure to do so...!


Especially since CyberVillain is more of a software-guy than a hardware-guy.


Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:02 pm
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Petrif-Eyed

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Thanks guys, yeah everything is so much easier with software.

Im hoping that I can test it with Max Payne 3 for a few hours tonight and get a review of the confyfactor.

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Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:02 am
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Petrif-Eyed

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Played with it for about 2 hours yesterday, i do not get any marks waaring it, but I do feel it after about an hour of use, its not pain like with the stock design, but i can feel it over my nose. I'm still not satisfied with the focus level, I get focus in center and top bottom but not all the way out to the sides. I tried with glasses, will try with contacts tonight, will also play around with the distance to eye, now I have it at the closest setting for maximum FOV.

The box is really hot after two hours of usage, I do not know if its the CPU or the DC-DC regulator because I didnt do any temp tests with the stock PSU. My eyes are really tired after two hours of VR, I do not know if my eyes are designed for current generation HMD's :/

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Mon Jul 02, 2012 12:43 am
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Petrif-Eyed
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Thanks for the info. I am very curious about how much you can improve the optical stability with a ski-mod. Some people claim that you can achieve perfect optical clarity, but I would like to hear experiences from actual field tested hardware.

My eyes get tired as well after using an HMD for more than 30 minutes. I feel like this...:shock:


Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:14 am
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Petrif-Eyed

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I think Pierreye reported that he can get perfect clarity but im not sure, I cant get good focus in the corners, will try more tonight if i get the time

edit: I dont think I have achioved better focus with the ski goggles mod yet, but I can zero in best focus right away, so thats atlest a improvement

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Mon Jul 02, 2012 10:41 am
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Sharp Eyed Eagle!

Joined: Sat Apr 12, 2008 9:45 pm
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Try to tilt your HMD around and see if you can get good focus. I found out tilting is the key to get good focus around. Just order another DC-DC converter as the old one is fix at 5v. I'm thinking to get a 3D printer to mold a casing for HMZ-T1 that is flexible enough to tilt it up/down and left/right.

Make sure your IPD adjustment is perfectly align. I do experience eye fatigue if I don't get good focus and alignment.


Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:07 am
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Petrif-Eyed

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Yeah, I tried that, tilting is not my current problem though, I get perfect top/bottom focus its the sides thats the problem. My final verdict probably going to be that you cant get 100% focus with the Sony optics, but im going to try some more before I give that Judge Dredd

The DC - DC i bought (The one you hinted) has worked so far, works both for battery and DC brick

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Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:31 pm
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Sharp Eyed Eagle!

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Try to shift your goggles left/right and see if you can get good focus for each side. Also try to tilt the goggles at one side and see if you can get better focus.


Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:22 pm
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Petrif-Eyed

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pierreye wrote:
Try to shift your goggles left/right and see if you can get good focus for each side. Also try to tilt the goggles at one side and see if you can get better focus.


Yeah, I was fiddling alot with it last night, and I get around 95% focus now which is probably what I have to accept

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Wed Jul 04, 2012 1:46 am
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Petrif-Eyed

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This is how it looks now, I'm working on a permanent solution for the menu controls, but this works for now

Image

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Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:10 am
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Petrif-Eyed
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Cool. I can't believe you got your girlfriend to wear that thing - much less take a pic. My wife just laughs at me when she sees me "suited up".

What are your thoughts for an enclosure?


Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:34 am
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Petrif-Eyed

Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:36 am
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brantlew wrote:
Cool. I can't believe you got your girlfriend to wear that thing - much less take a pic. My wife just laughs at me when she sees me "suited up".

What are your thoughts for an enclosure?


Hehe, I had to promise to clean the cats litter box for 2 weeks :P

Yeah, thats a problem, wearing it is not problem, but transport is (When transporting it to a good FPV airfield etc), the most fragile part right now is the menu control, its very easily bent. The problem is that its already at the brink of being too heavy, so I dont want to add any additional weight in the form of a casing for it :/

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Last edited by CyberVillain on Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:01 am
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3D Angel Eyes (Moderator)
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Nice!

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Sat Jul 14, 2012 11:43 am
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Petrif-Eyed

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cybereality wrote:
Nice!


The GF or the mod! ;) hehe.. Thanks mate :D

edit: Notice the classic downward pitch, Im the same, after a few minutes of gameplay I ALWAYS tilt downwards, until I by neck pain notice it :D

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Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:36 pm
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CyberVillain wrote:
cybereality wrote:
Nice!

The GF or the mod! ;) hehe.. Thanks mate :D

Both!

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Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:40 pm
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Petrif-Eyed

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Leaving the PCB unproteced might wasnt such a good idea, last night when I played Max Payne (That game is awsome in 3D!) it died on me, and now it wont start, the PCB is warm and it gives a way a very quite humming, not a good sign, probably someting thats been short circuited :/ One theory is that its the little switch that connects to the stock forehead pad that I had left hanging in its cable that it has moved into a bad place and short circuited the PCB. The box is still working (As far as I can tell) so i do not think its the DC-DC mod.

I'm leaving for Paris tomorrow so wont be able to test it out more for a week, but things looks really bad right now. Probably have to buy a new one, or if my consensuses allow it restore it to original and return it on the warranty.

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Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:09 am
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Petrif-Eyed
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:(

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Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:20 pm
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Petrif-Eyed
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Ouch! Hope you didn't "brick" your Sony.


Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:50 pm
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Petrif-Eyed

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Its pretty much bricked yes :D
Oh well, off for Paris with the missus for a few days, will have to deal with that when I get back, see you guys!

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Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:12 pm
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3D Angel Eyes (Moderator)
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Ah man! That's why I stay away from modding hardware. At least with software when you make a mistake you can always just recompile.

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Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:14 pm
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Golden Eyed Wiseman! (or woman!)

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I had a similar issue with my Hydra '( least it was only $150 not $1200 tho!


Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:52 pm
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One Eyed Hopeful

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Hi CyberVillain

I am going to attempt this mod look really good and should solve some problems . I am a little unsure from the images on how you are securing the metalplate to the ski goggles though, any tips.

Many thanks


Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:40 am
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One Eyed Hopeful

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Just reread you used l brackets, should read more carefully.


Wed Jul 25, 2012 1:56 pm
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Petrif-Eyed

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longchop wrote:
Just reread you used l brackets, should read more carefully.

Yeah, brackets, be sure use ones that can support the optics.


Make sure to isolate the PCB though, I'm pretty sure thats why mine was fried

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Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:52 am
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One Eyed Hopeful

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Ok I will be mindful of the PCB, thanks for the advice. When you say isolation are you meaning some how stop things commingi nto contact with it.


Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:34 am
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One Eyed Hopeful

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Reread page 2 again you give your reasons for the PCB I will try and make some sort of light weight cover to go over the front and ill watch for potential things comming into contact with the PCB. I was going to try tape the switch down remove the metal spring part. Hopefully ill get my goggles before the weekend and ill try and do the mod. Ive take apart before removed the gear, blacked the edge of the lense so fingers crossed all goes ok.

Biggest probelm I think ill have is making the metal plate. I like the idea of being able to adjust the distance from the eyes. I might see if I am able to do similar with the L brackets as well so can adjust up an down as well. This is trickier than just holes for screws though ill give it a go though.


Thu Jul 26, 2012 4:46 am
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Petrif-Eyed

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Good luck and keep is posted!

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Thu Jul 26, 2012 6:53 am
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One Eyed Hopeful

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Well I managed to put the eye peices into a mask didnt look nowhere as good as yours. Couldn't get comfortable with it though the weight of the lenses kept pulling the the mask down as it is flexible kept resting on my nose major annoying. Think the goggles I had didn't have a much space as yours did so the nose peice of the mask was also getting in the way. Totally pissed me off in the end so much messing around trying to find a solution.

In the end gave up was going to put back to stock. When I was thought I thought maybe I could use the straps for the ski goggle to attach it. So thats what I have now, has the undercase for controls and eye adjustment and the bit the lenses go into with the straps attached. Put the padding from the gogges around the eye peices.

This works no where as good as what you have done though. Might give it a go again in the future but this is ok for now.

You should make the mod and sell it like the guy with the straps did, i'd buy one.


Fri Aug 17, 2012 6:42 am
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