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 [ 8 posts ] 
 EDID fix for LG OLED 65E6P 65" Help? 
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One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:10 pm
Posts: 4
Hello. I have an LG OLED E6, 65" passive 3d tv connected to a 1080ti by 4K rated hdmi 2.0 transmitting visual and audio. I am trying to get 3d Vision running to make use of HelixMod fixes. My card now has driver version 26.21.14.4112 (Though I also tried 418.91 and 425.31) with 3dVision and 3dTVPlay installed through 3d Fix Manager and want to use 3d Vision to get around the 720p limit on 3DTVPlay. I have tried both the acermod4k.inf and the older 1080p Acer HR274H 3D Monitor EDID Override inf. Both EDID mods unlock Nvidea 3d Vision at their respective resolutions, but the 3d is way out of sync. The very foreground is sort of in 3d, but the interlaced pattern is not converging properly so I am seeing double in most of the image. Tweaking depth and convergence does not fix this. Same problem with 3 games. With 3dTvPlay and a manual install of the relevant HelixModFix wrapper, I briefly got Agony Unrated working in native resolution passive 3d through some kind of fluke, but it has stopped working on me. The HDMI input is labelled "PC", I have tried turning off HDR (which locked 3dVision in analgraph 3d for some reason). What am I missing here? Do I need a different EDID? I'm not sure if I have the same one that Joker18 made as some links and videos seem to have disappeared from the Geforce forums. Thanks for any help!


Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:25 pm
Cross Eyed!

Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2011 1:16 pm
Posts: 101
See https://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=181&t=23495, including my reference link for TV setup information.


Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:00 pm
One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:10 pm
Posts: 4
Thanks! That information was taking me many, many hours to try to locate (3d noob-I didn't know where to search). I installed the right EDID and have 3d working using fixes from HelixMods. The NVIDEA test pattern looks pretty good at native resolution and max depth but has just a tiny bit of white ghosting when letters at the bottom of the screen rush towards the viewer. A couple remaining issues though:

-The settings posted by viewtopic.php?f=181&t=23437 work.. kind of. I copied them exactly and 3D is functional in multiple games with no flicker, but unless 3d depth is turned down very low there is a lot of crosstalk on some in game objects. Namely anything with red. For some reason there is severe red crosstalk in multiple games. In a game like Assasian's Creed Rouge I can crank up the depth and sort of ignore the crosstalk unless a character has red hair, but in a game like Agony where the backgrounds are mostly red I am consistently seeing double. Has anyone else encountered this issue? The other annoying thing about those settings is that while they eliminate flicker and sort of work with low 3d depth, the colour is very muted and dull, which is frustrating on a goregous UHD Oled display. Has anyone found a better compromise of LG OLED tv settings?

-The other more minor issue that I'm having is that I can't get in game hotkeys to work for convergence, which makes it very hard to optimize. I have enabled advanced hotkeys in the NCP, enabled these hotkeys in 3dFix manager, and tried playing with the convergence slider in the "3d fix" tab of 3d fix manager, but convergence just doesn't want to change for me. I also tried rebinding those hotkeys in case they were conflicting with in game controls, but to no avail.

Thanks again!


Tue Dec 03, 2019 8:01 pm
One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2019 1:47 am
Posts: 17
Hello Hans
It takes a while to go through all the setting guides for 4K TVs, Whyme/lacuna have created great documentation on this but it's still a bit difficult to follow.
I remember encountering similar issues at the start, but once you set it up you don't need to touch it much.

For the first issue, I think it's due to the TV source which must be "PC". I think I had to make sure the colour setting in NCP was set as well, otherwise you don't get the nice OLED colours.

The second problem is more difficult to troubleshoot but here are a few ideas:
- first, the convergence keys in the NCP advanced settings have nothing to do with the keys in 3DFM. They are separate (at least I think so, I've never bothered to set anything up in there). Once you set them up in NCP they will work in any game regardless of 3DFM.
- second, to change the convergence you must keep the key pressed a very long time before you see any noticeable changes. And there is no gauge/progress bar.

Hope this helps you have a good experience, and enjoy one of the best 3D setups on Earth.
It's a criminal offence that these TVs are no longer produced and developed. (imagine if they continued working on them, and in a few years to have 65 OLED 3D passive at 120hz response time !!!)

Have fun


Wed Dec 04, 2019 2:45 am
Cross Eyed!

Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2011 1:16 pm
Posts: 101
Some games like Dark Souls have a strange color bug (apparently from EDID) that turns red flames blue, for example - fixed by using Alt-Tab keys.


Wed Dec 04, 2019 7:58 am
One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:10 pm
Posts: 4
I had initially missed the Lacuna guide linked on viewtopic.php?f=181&t=23495 and was just looking at the tv settings linked on viewtopic.php?f=181&t=23437. The latter on it's own does not give enough information for "nice" OLED 3d but it is a significant piece of the puzzle.

The Lacuna guide looks like everything that I needed in life. I searched for hours and never found it. I wish it popped up more easily through google and poking around. For anyone in my shoes who finds this thread, use those two links and pay attention to the Lacuna guide. Go with the 4K Joker18 LG E6V. Hopefully... job done. I will continue to post the solutions to my problems/followup questions in hopes that another noob can make use of the info and get their setup running with minimal headache.

I don't completely know what I'm doing with optimization of colour settings on an OLED panel, but I'll play around in NCP and check the links at the bottom of Lacuna's guide. I fixed my main problem with crosstalk (mainly in red). I had renamed HDMI1 to "PC", no quotes, but had not read anywhere prior to Lacuna's guide that I also had to change the ICON, to PC. That little detail converted the 3d from painful on the eyes to glorious! I also didn't know that you can't use the ARC HDMI. I wasn't using it, but great to know. I have a 4k rated Rocketfish HDMI 2.0 less than 3 meters. Hopefully that's good enough? Currently it is also transmitting sound which I know is bad because I recently read that 4k 3D needs every bit of the bandwidth it can get, so I'll have to fix that. I suppose I ideally want HDMI out from my PC to my Receiver for dolby digital plus, etc., but my current 3d blueray player/receiver only outputs HDMI, it doesn't accept it, which restricts me to dolby digital with an optical cable from pc to receiver I suppose.

The convergence issue was exactly as stated. It is very slow to change noticeably and I was thrown off by the lack of a visual bar, thinking nothing was happening.

I agree that this TV is a dream. I wanted very high quality 3d gaming on a big screen for years but just couldn't afford it. So when I could afford such a setup 3d was long since discontinued. At that point might as well get the best there is while you can still find it! So I spent a few weeks looking for ads until I found one with no burn in. I had to drive two hours to pick it up and I know I overpaid, but it is not an easy thing to find unharmed and fully functional so I am overjoyed with my purchase. The guy let me test me it for several hours with 3d games and movies, 4k games, 4k 3d games, etc. before confirming the transaction. Unfortunately he moved overseas very shortly after that and so I lost touch with him before trying to set up the 4K 3D gaming. Good thing you guys exist!

Followup question: with gaming you can full screen it, but lets say I watch a 3d movie which introduces black side bars, or I need to add sidebars to a game to fix a bug. With a regular 3d movie I can have pixel shift on and I can run "clear panel noise" after I finish, but with a 3d game I can't enable "pixel shift" and the HUD won't be moving. I may be paranoid but these TVs are REALLY hard to replace and every other one that I found had at least some burn in. I want to minimize the chance of burn as much as is reasonable. I try to vary the content between internet browsing, watching videos, gaming, but if it's a really good game I'm going to want to play it for a weekend straight sometimes. And sometimes you just want to marathon a show for a few nights. So how paranoid should I be?


Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:14 pm
One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2019 1:47 am
Posts: 17
Glad I was able to assist, seems I was spot on with my analysis of what was happening.

Happy for you to see that you managed to locate and acquire one of these TVs, I has lucky enough to find them when they were still left in stock in certain retailers.
One question: did you do the rabbit test to ensure the 3D filter is perfectly fit to the panel? Otherwise you might also have some bad ghosting which cannot be solved.

Regarding burn-in: YOU MUST BE VERY PARANOID!
This should probably feature in all the other TV guides, but probably the guides were not written specifically for OLED sets.
Good news/Bad news scenario.

Bad news is that you will not be able to totally avoid burn-in. It's good that you're asking yourself this question at the start. I did not know about this issue so I did not take precautions. So initially I got burn-in due to using my PC without screensaver for about a year. I got a lot of burn-in due to folder and program icons, especially in the red/orange spectrum. Then after a year I noticed it and set up a screensaver, hoping to prevent further damage. No luck. I got into World of Warcraft again for a few months, and the orange interface in that game fully wrecked whatever was left. So now I will always have a QUESTS text written on my screen, next to a very visible circle of the minimap, and a nice Azeroth insignia/shield to go with it.
So no matter what you do, you will have burn-in, especially with games which have red/orange interface elements. But most of them usually won't be a problem.

Good news is that, even with my ignorant-level burn-in, you still don't see it often enough to be bothered by it. I usually only see it in movies, in short flashes when the whole screen becomes red etc.

So if you set up a screensaver, and try to avoid interface-heavy games (or at least which have a more colour-neutral interface) you will be totally fine. Don't leave too many colored icons on the desktop, or change their icon to more generic Windows icons (pale yellow, pale blue, white). And definitely change the background colour to tan, beige, pale blown etc. Avoid colours which will make a stark contrast with the icons.
I'm sure with all this advice you will be fine.

Happy gaming.


Thu Dec 05, 2019 2:21 am
One Eyed Hopeful

Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:10 pm
Posts: 4
Thanks again! My job teaches paranoia, I love the stuff. From what I've read and heard it seems like the bane of OLEDs and other panel types prone to burn in is not being used while turned on. I usually only read of severe burn in when a user has left their panel on all day untouched, with a news channel, or a desktop, or etc. I turn mine off whenever I'm not using it. And I try to use it for my streaming needs in between gaming sessions to vary up the static on-screen elements like HUDs or the top of an internet browser or windows icons, etc. I guess it's inevitable, especially if you want to actually play a certain game with a static HUD (which is almost all games) long term and not just for a few weeks, but the user before me had it since it was in stock, and it's pretty much perfect, unlike the other ones I saw.

If I do a black's test I can see that there's maybe, possibly some burn in at the edges just when I do a black colour test (not even in a very dark movie or game), but I have to squint and really look for it. I would never have seen it without a test and trying hard to find it, and I've never seen it when not running special tests for it. The last owner credited that success with using the display for a wide variety of content on the regular in order to constantly vary what each pixel was doing. So hopefully I can make it last years and years longer still if I'm careful. If I spend all evening playing a game, I then make a point to watch youtube or something for a half hour or so to give the pixels something else to do. And then I might do a "clear all screen noise". I don't know how much that helps, but it seems like it might?

Regarding not setting up a screen saver, the TV has changing landscape pictures that activate after a number of minutes without input or changing output-a built in screen saver. I read that it was there to help prevent burn in. I advise future users of this tv NOT to disable that option unless you have something else set up. And I leave pixel shifting enabled whenever I can. I know it causes eye switching in 3d Vision with EDID, but it seems perfectly fine while you're using the display for anything else, like a netflix video that can do without fake 3d. Even with LED screens I use a screen saver. Technically they can develop burn in too, just extremely slowly.

I didn't even know about the rabbit test. I'll have to do it. I played a good hour and a half of From games in 3d and watched scenes of 3d movies while it was hooked up to the previous owner's computer with which It was optimized. I saw no ghosting. And I have his glasses.


Sat Dec 07, 2019 12:53 am
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