3D add on kits possibility?!?

[Guig2000]

Well, no it's just part of the work, even on glasses side.

Outrun 3D on SEGA master system ran, it's true, but like all TV 3D tek of this time, the experience was well, "suboptimal" and was source of joke. The flickering on 60Hz, and worst, 50Hz TV was unbearable.

Whatever If you plan to use it with a playstation 3 or 4 or any bluray3D reader, it will not work, because they:
1°) need to know that your TV is 3D capable.
2°) will not output frame sequential but frame packed 3D signal.
To achieve this two things, the TV require to have a 3D capable HDMI input chip with 3D capability listed into it's EDID rom.

You could circumvent this issue by using a device capable to convert hdmi frame packed 3D into frame sequential. Like maybe this one: https://3dvision-blog.com/tag/frame-pac ... equential/ or https://www.hdfury.com/product/hdfury-x4/ and I'm not sure the products are good.

Of course, you can achieve frame sequential output with a PC.

Default video stream on hdmi runs at 60Hz or 24Hz, which if you plan to use alternate Right/Left frame is really sub-optimal -> you will have flickering.
Personally I suggest to use 85Hz at worst, leading to 96HZ/100Hz/120Hz or 144Hz for more standard frequencies.
-> so your TV need to be capable to receive this signal.

If your TV is 60Hz but you still want to try 3d on it, the LCD panel will probably be way to slow. Indeed old crt TV and monitors, plasma TV, DLP projectors can display a picture instantly and switch entirely to a new one 100 times per second, but for a LCD panel it's far to be an easy task. When a LCD panel display a picture, the previous one is still remnant. So that in 3D it will not switch fast enough from a picture to the next, leading to ghosting ( you can see left picture on right side and vice versa). Some glasses from 3D systems dedicated to LCD display (i.e. 3D vision) have a trick to partially compensate: they can block the light simultaneously on the two eyes, waiting that the pixels stabilize on the LCD panel. But it lead to a much darker picture. An other method is on the LCD Monitor/TV, on each picture, to swich off backlighting until last moment and then switch on for a very short time, when the pixels are the more stabilized, with very high power/light intensity to compensate the short time.

Also you may have another issue on some displays: While ideally for 3D, a LCD panel should switch all pixels quite simultaneously, some may display new pixels pixel by pixel, line by line or block by block. Meaning that the screen is continuously switching pixels, and you can't find a time where they're all stabilized. In this case, you can achieve low ghosting only on a part of the screen.

You can decrease a lot the ghosting by using interleaved video signal instead of progressive, at native lcd resolution (ie 1080i instead of 1080p for a full HD TV). Combined with frame sequential 3D, it will makes that odd and even lines of pixels will be dedicated to left or right view . The price is a dimmer picture and half resolution per eye (1920*540, exactly like when you use a polarized panel with passive glasses).