Meant to be Seen

Guys, I want to get an HMD for gaming, I have a Samsung 46C7000 3D TV and I hate the crosstalk, it annoys he hell out of me…

My 2 options is Sony HMZ and the version 2 of SM1080 that in theory should have less bugs..

Which one is recommended for gaming??

In theory Sony should be better because its OLED, but its only 720P so in 2D I stuck at 720P

How noticeable is the 720P? Maybe its not that obvious on HMD?


Thanks

I don't think there is enough consensus out there yet on the ST1080 to make a decision. It is well known however that the HMZ-T1 has major problems with fit and comfort. If your intention is to use head-tracking then you will probably want to modify the Sony in some way to make it usable. Lots of modifications can be found here and AVSForums - all the way from simple velcro straps to fully reassembled ski goggles.

brantlew wrote:I don't think there is enough consensus out there yet on the ST1080 to make a decision. It is well known however that the HMZ-T1 has major problems with fit and comfort. If your intention is to use head-tracking then you will probably want to modify the Sony in some way to make it usable. Lots of modifications can be found here and AVSForums - all the way from simple velcro straps to fully reassembled ski goggles.

Hi
I dont need head tracking (right now), what I need is good 3D and good picture quality.
Comfort is second to PQ

Do you think 720P is enough for gaming? especially for future console game (at leas with PC i can crank up AA)

Is there any one who used HMZ and can you tell me if there is a noticeable difference between 720P on HMZ and 1080P on TV? Maybe because its close to your eye its not that obvious?

Thanks

If you want good 3D and good picture quality I'm really not sure an HMD is what you need. You'll only gain 0% crosstalk but then you'll loose on many other aspects, ie. blurry corners, less depth feeling, tunnel vision, uncomfort and more latency. I guess it would probably be wiser to invest in a good 3D TV with less ghosting than yours, such as Panasonic Plasma or Phillips LCD models.

Fredz wrote:If you want good 3D and good picture quality I'm really not sure an HMD is what you need. You'll only gain 0% crosstalk but then you'll loose on many other aspects, ie. blurry corners, less depth feeling, tunnel vision, uncomfort and more latency. I guess it would probably be wiser to invest in a good 3D TV with less ghosting than yours, such as Panasonic Plasma or Phillips LCD models.

whats tunnel vision?
I heard that HMZ dont have any blurry corners ST1080 has, but they said it was solved

I set my mind on getting an HMD, because no TV is actually cross talk free, its not possible with single screen technology.
Im ok with less pop in 3D and im OK with it beeping not very comfortable, im not sensitive to that what im sensitive to is the cross talk.
I cant even play PC games because of it, the cross talk on Nvidia is worse then on Samsung

And to get a good TV with almost no cross talk is VERY expensive, so take the price of good 3D TV and then multiplay it by x5 thats what ill pay where i live
and HMD's are small by comparison and can be easily imported from US for less then 100USD shipping so its also a plus

Anyway, I think ill wait for reviews of ST1080 revision 2, if they solved the blurriness ill get it,.

ViruzZ wrote:whats tunnel vision?

I think he is talking about the black borders that will cover most of your field of view.

The Sony HMZ-T1 actually has a great picture, nice colors and everything. The 720P looks fine, clearly not 1080P quality, but still crisp and colorful. The main issue with the headset is that it is not very comfortable. You can only wear it for around an hour at a time before its too much. Even without modding it, its still usable, just not a great user experience. But I wouldn't totally discount the product just because of the ergonomics. In terms of a display, its actually good.

However, have you considered getting a 3D projector? I recently got the Optoma GT750E, and this thing is great. Its a DLP projector, so there is no ghosting. Huge 100" image, nice 3D effect. I paid around $600 when it was on sale, it normally sells for around $750. Still, its cheaper than the Sony or SMD headsets. This could be a good option if all you want is to eliminate ghosting. Otherwise I would say go with the HMZ and maybe try one of the mods to make it more comfortable.

cybereality wrote:The Sony HMZ-T1 actually has a great picture, nice colors and everything. The 720P looks fine, clearly not 1080P quality, but still crisp and colorful. The main issue with the headset is that it is not very comfortable. You can only wear it for around an hour at a time before its too much. Even without modding it, its still usable, just not a great user experience. But I wouldn't totally discount the product just because of the ergonomics. In terms of a display, its actually good.

However, have you considered getting a 3D projector? I recently got the Optoma GT750E, and this thing is great. Its a DLP projector, so there is no ghosting. Huge 100" image, nice 3D effect. I paid around $600 when it was on sale, it normally sells for around $750. Still, its cheaper than the Sony or SMD headsets. This could be a good option if all you want is to eliminate ghosting. Otherwise I would say go with the HMZ and maybe try one of the mods to make it more comfortable.

I dont have a large enough room for projector, also i have closets all around my walls, its complicated..

Is it possible to somehow remove the headphones from HMZ? I use 5.1 headphones to play

Anyway, I think its worth to wait a week or two for reviews of ST1080 ver.2, if people say they fixed the bug ill get it instead, 1080P is more future proof
If they haven't fixed the bugs ill get the sony one...

The only way to use headphones is to remove the stock casing. Skigoggles mod etc

I loved the ST1080 when I tried a prototype at CES. Mine has not come in the mail yet, I am hoping that the problems people are reporting are the exception, not the rule.

The HMZ-T1 has good picture quality, but the comfort is hard to stand for hours at a time, physically and optically.

ViruzZ wrote:[Anyway, I think its worth to wait a week or two for reviews of ST1080 ver.2, if people say they fixed the bug ill get it instead, 1080P is more future proof
If they haven't fixed the bugs ill get the sony one...

1080p on this HMD is not future proof at all since it only supports 720p at 60Hz. They don't use capable HDMI transmitter chips so you won't be able to use 1080p at more than 24 or 30Hz per eye.

Also, as you said you were looking for good image quality, unfortunately you won't get that with the ST1080 and its grey blacks. Only the HMZ-T1 will give you a good image quality, but the uncomfort as Cybereality and many others said could be a real showstopper.

Again, considering your expectations, I'm really not sure a HMD is what you need...

Fredz wrote:

ViruzZ wrote:[Anyway, I think its worth to wait a week or two for reviews of ST1080 ver.2, if people say they fixed the bug ill get it instead, 1080P is more future proof
If they haven't fixed the bugs ill get the sony one...

1080p on this HMD is not future proof at all since it only supports 720p at 60Hz. They don't use capable HDMI transmitter chips so you won't be able to use 1080p at more than 24 or 30Hz per eye.

Also, as you said you were looking for good image quality, unfortunately you won't get that with the ST1080 and its grey blacks. Only the HMZ-T1 will give you a good image quality, but the uncomfort as Cybereality and many others said could be a real showstopper.

Again, considering your expectations, I'm really not sure a HMD is what you need...

It supports lots of resolutions, here is the info:


3D Video Formats

1920x1080p @ 24Hz Frame Packing (full resolution)
1920x1080p @ 24Hz Top-and-Bottom (half resolution)
1920x1080p @ 60Hz Side-by-Side (half resolution)
1920x1080p @ 60Hz Top-and-Bottom (half resolution)
1920x1080p @ 30Hz Top-and-Bottom (full resolution)
1920x1080i @ 60Hz Side-by-Side (half resolution)
1920x1080i @ 50Hz Side-by-Side (half resolution)
1920x720p @ 50Hz Frame Packing (full resolution)
1280x720p @ 60Hz Frame Packing (full resolution)
1280x720p @ 60Hz Top-and-Bottom (half resolution)
1280x720p @ 50Hz Top-and-Bottom (half resolution)



2D Video Formats

1920x1080p @ 60Hz
1920x1080p @ 24Hz
1920x1080p @ 50Hz
1920x1080i @ 60Hz
1920x1080i @ 50Hz
1280x720p @ 60Hz
1280x720p @ 50Hz
720x576p @ 50Hz
720x480p @ 60Hz
640x480p @ 60 Hz

The thing to keep in mind with the ST1080, is that it doesn't have a scaler on it. Meaning if you use 720P resolution there will be a large black border around the whole image. To make matters worse, with HDMI 1.4a 3D at full resolution (1080P) you are limited to 24Hz, meaning gaming will not be smooth. The only option here is to use the 1080P Side-by-Side mode, which will be full screen and at 60Hz. However now you will be losing half the resolution and the picture quality will suffer. Still playable, sure, but maybe not what you expect of a "Full HD" device.

cybereality wrote:The thing to keep in mind with the ST1080, is that it doesn't have a scaler on it. Meaning if you use 720P resolution there will be a large black border around the whole image. To make matters worse, with HDMI 1.4a 3D at full resolution (1080P) you are limited to 24Hz, meaning gaming will not be smooth. The only option here is to use the 1080P Side-by-Side mode, which will be full screen and at 60Hz. However now you will be losing half the resolution and the picture quality will suffer. Still playable, sure, but maybe not what you expect of a "Full HD" device.

Hi,
Well its same thing with 3D TV's, its HDMI 1.4 thing.. Its excatlly what I have now with Samsung 46C7000

The only alternative is to buy a new 3D vision monitor (I have Samsung 2233, so i only have 1680)

But with 3D Vision im locked to PC games only..

I played 1080P SBS on 3D TV and it looks good, the major plus in PC games is AA


P.S. I remember someone saying something that ST1080 is semi-upgrdabale when they come out with display port version or new HDMI that supports 1080P/60Hz in 3D then we only have to buy the decoder box without the glasses...