Is there a possibility that shutterglasses could be made for near zero ghosting for LCD's?
I am thinking that instead of using the 2 polarizing filters on the LCD in the shutterglasses, use one (or none?) and have it aligned with the monitor's front polarizing layer (as far as I know you only need 4 angles, 0°, 90°, 45°, 135°, or you could make the LCD flippable and only make two models, one diagonal, and one orthogonal)
This way the brightness goes up when it is off (clear), and when on it is blocking the polarized light from the monitor very efficiently.
Anybody see anything I missed?
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If you could strip the polarizing filters off of this and then rotate them until they blocked your LCD, it just might work.
Thoughts?
[REQ] [DIY] LCD Shutterglasses for $20?
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2 points:
1. I don't think it will be any more sensitive than my Planar rig (that is to say very very good, and only goes away if your head leans very far over. 45° is clear 10-15° is about like standard shutter glasses, who plays with their head sideways? *)
2. It should be much darker than any CRT shutterglasses, no ghosting when it is on.
*I agree that this wouldn't be the setup to have for a head tracking system, did you see that tracking gun I posted?
1. I don't think it will be any more sensitive than my Planar rig (that is to say very very good, and only goes away if your head leans very far over. 45° is clear 10-15° is about like standard shutter glasses, who plays with their head sideways? *)
2. It should be much darker than any CRT shutterglasses, no ghosting when it is on.
*I agree that this wouldn't be the setup to have for a head tracking system, did you see that tracking gun I posted?
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I don't get you... What do you want to do?
Do you want to change polarization of the monitor with about 100hz? Or is the refreshrate of 75 or 85hz enough?
Do you want to change polarization of the monitor with about 100hz? Or is the refreshrate of 75 or 85hz enough?
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I didn't see Frekes post...
Well I read somewehre (here) that the picture is not fully visible at a certain time. If you have the wrong time, the next picture is already shown half.
It's a combination of delay and bad building of the picture.
A crt needs time to start again from the top, but the LCD doesn't need this time...
Well I read somewehre (here) that the picture is not fully visible at a certain time. If you have the wrong time, the next picture is already shown half.
It's a combination of delay and bad building of the picture.
A crt needs time to start again from the top, but the LCD doesn't need this time...
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I thought that it was because the phosphors in a CRT fade very fast (near instant, that is why there is a flickering), and LCD's had a much longer drop off in brightness because they changed state much quicker.
With the newer screens sporting overdrive pixels and the like, maybe it is quick enough for this kind of tech?
I was just thinking of ways to stick with LCD, get full resolution per eye, and fix the ghosting issue with shutterglasses all in one blow, but there are technical hurdles, that I will grant you.
With the newer screens sporting overdrive pixels and the like, maybe it is quick enough for this kind of tech?
I was just thinking of ways to stick with LCD, get full resolution per eye, and fix the ghosting issue with shutterglasses all in one blow, but there are technical hurdles, that I will grant you.
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There's also the problem of the visible flicker of the glasses if their frequency is not high enough. I'm talking about putting on the glasses and looking around (not at the screen) while they are activated. My experience is the following :
- At 60 Hz, I see them flicker a lot.
- At 75 Hz, I still see them flicker.
- At 100 Hz, I start to see the flicker less but it's slightly visible.
- At 120 Hz, the flicker is totally invisible.
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If the phospor was that quick, there wouldn't be any ghosting. A DLP has nothing 'glowing', so there is no real ghosting - just a shift in colors depending on the speed of the color-weelnubie wrote:I thought that it was because the phosphors in a CRT fade very fast (near instant, that is why there is a flickering)[...]
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