RifTUP! FullHD Oculus DK1 upgrade kit

Post by **cgp44** » Mon May 05, 2014 5:18 am

Rozsnyo, did you guys try a hdmi cable attached to a hirose crimping socket
Df14-20s-1.25c. I suppose you didn't as you got the dk1 cable working.
But could mr UU have a problematic cable. Perhaps there is some variation
In production quality, different twisting inside dk1 cable perhaps. You have only sampled one so far.

Post by **ido** » Mon May 05, 2014 6:54 am

I'm eager to get this, but it certainly looks like it's going to be a lot more work than I expected.

Post by **mr.uu** » Mon May 05, 2014 8:15 am

Another update:

I have redone the shielding (againnnnnn...) and did double shield this time. Means alu foil, insolation, alu foil, insulation. Then i did twist the tracker cables (just for fun, looks better now

.
And, you guessed it, i was welcomed with an interlaced ghost image. Then, something strange happened. I touched and moved te cable on the controller box end, and suddenly ghosting did not reappear for 15min. So despite a few red dots flashing on dark background, the picture was stable...
So i used this time to do some more software tests (HQ-HumanScans Demo (awsome! First time i realised, that the women in the second row, second from right, topless, is breathing!), Oculus Tuscany, Proton Pulse, Batmen Arkham City with VorpX) and i found out, that the distortion is slightly wrong. I have the newest SDK and i think it uses the distortion of the original DK. VorpX works great but unfortunately after 10min in Oculus Tuscany i tried Proton Pulse and there the ghosting reappeared and was persistent also in Batmen AC with VorpX.
Suprisingly, if i un- and replug the power to the controller box, the desktop is stable again - sometimes seconds sometimes minutes. I tried to play around with the cabling on the controller box, but could not find a relation between moving and ghosting

.

More and more i think i do not have shielding issues (okay, the red dots are probably shielding issues, but the interlaced ghost picture?

sasanamiko wrote:Which part of the electronic circuit will generate the noise ?
Do you have any effect that is covered with aluminum foil that part ?
( Be careful to insulation.)

Well, as i said, i could not locate the problem yet. I will try to do what Daniel suggested, and bundle the high speed pairs with the grounds and try to insulate them as a seperate bunch.

ido wrote:I'm eager to get this, but it certainly looks like it's going to be a lot more work than I expected.

Relax, we are trying hard to find the issue that YOU have an easy life

cgp44 wrote:Rozsnyo, did you guys try a hdmi cable attached to a hirose crimping socket
Df14-20s-1.25c. I suppose you didn't as you got the dk1 cable working.
But could mr UU have a problematic cable. Perhaps there is some variation
In production quality, different twisting inside dk1 cable perhaps. You have only sampled one so far.

Well, i think i will now finally open up a second DK for the sake of the community...

Post by **Nick3DvB** » Mon May 05, 2014 8:20 am

Removing the ferrite chokes might help, they reduce the radiated EMI but can actually harm the signal formation:

http://www.egerate.com/articles/Ferrite_Core_HDMI.pdf

I think this would be too difficult for many people though, it's easy to damage the cable.

Another thing to try is to increase the number of twists in each pair, but it can also be important to have a different total number of twists in each pair!

http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/data-c ... et-cabling

But different twist ratios along the length of the same cable is probably not good...

Maybe just ask Oculus Support if you can buy some cables from returned DK1's, re-shield them and ship with the RiftUp.

http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpbb/viewtopic.p ... 933#p89540

It's worth a try - If you don't ask you don't get....

Post by **sasanamiko** » Mon May 05, 2014 11:50 am

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/riftup#activity

It has been updated.

Post by **RaNk** » Mon May 05, 2014 2:04 pm

I just wanted to to pop in and say "Thanks" to mr.uu for his sterling work. Good job my man. You are alleviating my decreasing anxieties.

Post by **mr.uu** » Mon May 05, 2014 2:34 pm

Final tests and conclusion:

I did open another RiftDK and used this cable.
I did not twist it like i did with the first one, just pressed the cables firmly together while wrapping the alu foil around it (meanwhile you can call me "professional wrapper"...

).

To keep a (very) long story short: i was again welcomed with the same interlaced ghost picture. After one un- and replug of the power no ghosting and i did start the Redframe Demo (very good for seeing the pixels flashing). A few seconds later again ghosting.

This brings me to the point that i have a non working RiftUP! kit, where at least one of the two boards works out of specs. Hopefully it is not the design of the boards which is the problem.

I will post pics of the procedure and videos of the ghost image from my mobile in my next post.

I would like to ask Daniel and/or Karel to get in touch with me.

Post by **mr.uu** » Mon May 05, 2014 2:53 pm

Here the pics and one video...

Post by **cgp44** » Mon May 05, 2014 3:15 pm

I'm not an electrical engineer, but ...

is introducing a short as a protection mechanism good or workable?

Does the short destroy the cable, and as the wires in the cable melt and the supply plug melts,
does this stop any bad voltages from intruding upon the chips anyway??

Post by **cgp44** » Mon May 05, 2014 3:40 pm

Mr UU, looking at that second wiring setup. It looks like the wiring lengths could be different
with all those twists.
In a high signal fHD hdmi maybe this is the problem.

2 out of 3 dk1's so far have failed at early attempts. We wll get there.

HDMI cable with crimped sockets here I come.

Post by **cgp44** » Mon May 05, 2014 3:59 pm

Rozsnyo, do you have the crimping socket in stock and available to include in the kit.
If not maybe you should delay the shipment till you get some.

socket is hirose df14 series 20 pin df14-20s-1.25c digikey.com part no. h1573-nd under
rectangular connectors housings (in the product index tree)

This is a crimping socket where you cut the wires evenly and push them into the pin
holes. Then you crimp by pushing each tab in which cuts into the wire. You do not
attempt to expose copper conductor on the wires. Dont bother looking for the crimping tool
the price is a joke at approx $1000!
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... ageSize=25

Probably Mr UU's next step is to order these sockets ( under a dollar each, but $30 fedx shipping sorry).
Cut the wires even and then put the new sockets on. But what if the mis lengthed wires is due to twisting
inside the cable?

Post by **Nick3DvB** » Mon May 05, 2014 7:16 pm

It is unlikely but the board might have taken a static shock during installation, maybe add a note about basic ESD precautions to the install guide? It might also be worth trying shorter and higher quality HDMI cables (or a 24AWG DVI cable), the chip is supposed to have adaptive equalization but the "junk in / junk out" rule might still apply here? A few gremlins are to be expected at this stage, I'm sure you guys will all be up and running soon.

Post by **rozsnyo** » Mon May 05, 2014 11:25 pm

Cut the wires even and then put the new sockets on. But what if the mis lengthed wires is due to twisting inside the cable?

That is unlikely - the HDMI is made in a way that it can tolerate inter-lane skew of almost one complete 10bit cycle. At our speed that is 1/150MHz = 6.66ns = 1.33m (at 200.000km/s).

Post by **baggyg** » Tue May 06, 2014 2:38 am

Thanks for experimenting Mr.UU, especially with your 2nd DK1. That was a good experiment in terms of using the RiftUp as the experiment control. I would guess the next step would be to keep the DK1 the same but use a different RiftUp as a control. It would certainly be good to know if the ghosting is a byproduct of the insulation or something else. If there wasn't ghosting how would you rate the red pixel flashing? Could you live with it and is it easily affected by better shielding? I would hope as more RiftUps get delivered we will know more and hopefully figure out an answer.

Post by **cgp44** » Tue May 06, 2014 5:09 am

That crimping df14 socket idea is looking possible for the keen.
I have a proskit supercrimp tool in my electronic box
which can do down to 22 awg small wire size.
The tiny pin in the connector are 26 awg so I'll
have to imprevise. I'll also try crimping with ordinary pliers.
Drat that I didn't realise that you
order the crimping pin separately hence doubling the $30 shipping fee.

Post by **vittorio** » Tue May 06, 2014 5:13 am

I wonder why there are no other RiftUP! Now bakers sharing their experiences? I'm very excited reading mr.uu's posts, unfortunately there are problems getting it working. Did the other bakers not get their kit yet because of shipping time? Or are they not reading this forum?

Post by **Ryuuken24** » Tue May 06, 2014 9:00 am

The original display, can't you plug it into the Riftup board? Would be a way to see if the same thing happens. If you need to press the wires together; is hot glue an issue? It would totally hold the cable still.

Post by **synchromesh** » Tue May 06, 2014 11:10 am

Ryuuken24 wrote:If you need to press the wires together; is hot glue an issue? It would totally hold the cable still.

Or there's Cable lacing:

As used by NASA!

But yes, a few thin cable ties around the twisted bundle might help keep it tight.

Post by **mr.uu** » Tue May 06, 2014 3:22 pm

cgp44 wrote:Mr UU, looking at that second wiring setup. It looks like the wiring lengths could be different
with all those twists.
In a high signal fHD hdmi maybe this is the problem.

2 out of 3 dk1's so far have failed at early attempts. We wll get there.

HDMI cable with crimped sockets here I come.

I do think that the twisting of the already "twisted pairs" could be the problem. I did not find time so far to look at the diagram Daniel posted to check if he used the twisted pairs for the mipi lanes...
If all shielding attempts fail, i will cut an HDMI cable and use it - soldered at the original plugs.

Nick3DvB wrote:It is unlikely but the board might have taken a static shock during installation, maybe add a note about basic ESD precautions to the install guide? It might also be worth trying shorter and higher quality HDMI cables (or a 24AWG DVI cable), the chip is supposed to have adaptive equalization but the "junk in / junk out" rule might still apply here? A few gremlins are to be expected at this stage, I'm sure you guys will all be up and running soon.

I do ALWAYS ground myself (easiest at the ground connections of a european wall socket) BEFORE touching/handling electronics. I went to engineering school and i am very aware of that problem.

baggyg wrote:Thanks for experimenting Mr.UU, especially with your 2nd DK1. That was a good experiment in terms of using the RiftUp as the experiment control. I would guess the next step would be to keep the DK1 the same but use a different RiftUp as a control. It would certainly be good to know if the ghosting is a byproduct of the insulation or something else. If there wasn't ghosting how would you rate the red pixel flashing? Could you live with it and is it easily affected by better shielding? I would hope as more RiftUps get delivered we will know more and hopefully figure out an answer.

I think if we are out of ideas of solving the problem i will hopefully have the chance to try another RiftUP! which will bring us closer to the cause of the problem. Occasionally i can enjoy a minute without ghosting and then the flashing dots do only destroy the experience in dark scenes. On bright/colorful scenes i can fully enjoy the upgrade. So depending on the scenes it could still be enjoyable. Unfortunately it is still present after my last "double shielding" attempt. So i doubt it could be better shielded, but i think the problem could be the arrangement of the (twisted pair-)cables inside the bunch of cables. I also hope that we soon hear from other RiftUp!NOW customers.

Ryuuken24 wrote:The original display, can't you plug it into the Riftup board? Would be a way to see if the same thing happens. If you need to press the wires together; is hot glue an issue? It would totally hold the cable still.

It is ovious to NOT TRY THIS!!! Daniel even postet what happens if you do so: a SHORT and (limited) DAMAGE.
I did already check the cable with the old controller box and old display. It works fine. What should i use the hot glue for? Try yourself with a bunch of really smal cable. You will then have a better idea about what we are talking about.

synchromesh wrote:...But yes, a few thin cable ties around the twisted bundle might help keep it tight.

Well, to do that with the bunch of cables in front of me i would need to shrink my fingers to the size of a mouse paw...

Post by **cgp44** » Tue May 06, 2014 3:28 pm

Mr UU. -> If all shielding attempts fail, i will cut an HDMI cable and use it - soldered at the original plugs.

This is going to be a crimping challenge.

Post by **mr.uu** » Tue May 06, 2014 3:35 pm

Who needs a crimping tool???
I love "soldering challenges"

Post by **Nick3DvB** » Tue May 06, 2014 4:40 pm

mr.uu wrote:
Nick3DvB wrote:It is unlikely but the board might have taken a static shock during installation, maybe add a note about basic ESD precautions to the install guide? It might also be worth trying shorter and higher quality HDMI cables (or a 24AWG DVI cable), the chip is supposed to have adaptive equalization but the "junk in / junk out" rule might still apply here? A few gremlins are to be expected at this stage, I'm sure you guys will all be up and running soon.
I do ALWAYS ground myself (easiest at the ground connections of a european wall socket) BEFORE touching/handling electronics. I went to engineering school and i am very aware of that problem.

I'm sure it is not ESD damage, but better safe than sorry. It's good that you knew to ground yourself, I didn't go to engineering school myself, I was just a bit worried about the static build-up on your nice blue couch!

mr.uu wrote:I do think that the twisting of the already "twisted pairs" could be the problem. I did not find time so far to look at the diagram Daniel posted to check if he used the twisted pairs for the mipi lanes...
If all shielding attempts fail, i will cut an HDMI cable and use it - soldered at the original plugs.

If there is good contact between the original cable shield / drain and the foil wrapper then I don't think the problem can be from external EMI sources, more likely it's the signal integrity of the differential pairs, so as a last resort you could try increasing the number of twists in each pair. If you do have to use an HDMI cable I noticed that some 1.4+ cables have an extra twisted pair for HEAC (separately shielded ethernet) which is good for sending the USB tracker data (rather than using the DDC pair). Also be aware than most very thin cables are "active" and probably wouldn't work without their plugs, but Belkin do a nice thin passive cable that is easy to s0lder or crimp - we better be careful using the "S word" though, we don't want to start an more rumours..

Post by **cgp44** » Wed May 07, 2014 2:47 am

Rozsnyo, why are there two serial sda/scl pin pairs?

Post by **rozsnyo** » Wed May 07, 2014 2:50 am

One is EDID for HDMI, second for the I2C expander which handles the buttons, LEDs and input mux IC

Post by **cgp44** » Wed May 07, 2014 3:33 am

Rozsnyo, what happens when we have an edid mixup causing the
wrong resolution to be sent over hdmi? Do we get a blank screen or
perhaps ghosting?

Post by **rozsnyo** » Wed May 07, 2014 5:12 am

cgp44 wrote:Rozsnyo, what happens when we have an edid mixup causing the
wrong resolution to be sent over hdmi? Do we get a blank screen or
perhaps ghosting?

What is an EDID mixup???

We are testing about 20 new boards - some of them behave in a way that ghosting appears in few seconds (for some weird 480x720 px resolution). Switching input restores the issue (probably PLL reset / resync happens) and the second input does behave differently. So my suggestion to mr.uu is to test the DVI input, with a hdmi-dvi adapter plugged into the control box.

Post by **mr.uu** » Wed May 07, 2014 7:09 am

Actually i did run via an DVI2HDMI adapter to the HDMI input of the controller box.
Because i did also think that this could be an issue, i did test:
Running DVI to DVI via DVI cable, and
HDMI to HDMI via HDMI cable, which both did not better or alter the situation.
Unfortunately i can not test HDMI to DVI via HDMI2DVI adapter because i do not have such an adapter.

My result in testing ANY different resolution than 1920x1080 is always complete messed up picture (would not describe it as ghosting)...

Daniel, any thought why the backlight pulsing mode ("white") does not work?

Post by **rozsnyo** » Wed May 07, 2014 7:20 am

Does it show WHITE but no backlight? I have just tried on another board and there it is okay. I am starting to think that your board got some flaw.. so we send you another set of boards ? (the new frames are missing - we really need to make the corner cut - on that subject, do you experience the screen to be off-center ?)

Post by **rozsnyo** » Wed May 07, 2014 7:46 am

Another ghosting solving thing: cleaning the board properly from solder flux. Do you have some IPA and a toothbrush mr.uu?

Post by **mr.uu** » Wed May 07, 2014 12:16 pm

I am at home from work and can try again.
Yes, white mode means NO backlight and no reaction when pressing buttons 2-5.
Button 1 changes back to green mode (=red mode without connected HDMI cable).

I will try to clean with a toothbrush now.

About the frames: a 45deg cut on the opposite side of the connector starting 1cm left and ending 1cm down from the corner would be a great relief when installing. The board does not suffer any stability issue because in that area it does not touch the rift housing but rests in the air anyways.

EDIT: after second reading i understand you question about off center of the screen properly. Answer: i was not aware of any off center problem. BUT the driving as secondary and therefore running in window mode and dragging the window after start to the right rift screen makes it very difficult to position the window exact center. Nevertheless i did not feel unconfortable despite dragging it one time more pixels and one time fewer pixels to the right...
It would really help to use it in clone mode (using a physically rotated display as primary, which is software rotated back to normal, this then can be driven cloned for the RiftUP!). If i can fix the issue with the RiftUP! i will use that setup...

Post by **Ryuuken24** » Wed May 07, 2014 1:18 pm

If more people would report their setup, we'd have a better picture if the issue is wide or one case scenario.

Post by **Nick3DvB** » Wed May 07, 2014 2:29 pm

I wonder if lowering the pixel clock could help, reduced-blanking modes etc?

Configurable in the display drivers, or with CRU, some details about half way through this article:

http://www.playtool.com/pages/dvicompat/dvi.html

I'm out of ideas now, good luck...

Post by **mr.uu** » Wed May 07, 2014 6:38 pm

After 5h of testing i have more insight now.
But from the beginning:
First i did follow Daniels idea of cleaning the PCBs. So i took the boards and looked for any unusual thing on the PCBs with a loup. The controller box looked fine, so i cleaned it with a toothbrush and IPA. Then i had a closer look at the driver board and i did find some miner anomalies (see last pictures below). Some white tissue residue (could be mine because i cleaned the display a few times with a white soft tissue and probably also the driver board but can not recall, and some capacitors a little bit off from the supposed place bt all of them still having good contact.
So i cleaned also the driver board and did put i all together, thinking that all that together could have been the problem.
While doing this i realised, that the sticky take which is used to hold the driver board on the back of the display is bad quality, because for probably five times it came of and i had to press it on again. So i decided to use additional two sides sticky tape whick i had laying around. A softer white one, thicker (roughly 1mm) and much better - see picture below. Daniel, you should really change the sticky tape, it is anoying if the driver board always gets loose while you try to fiddle all together...

But when i turned the RiftUP! on i was greeted with the same dots and ghosting...

So, i decided to experiment further and found out, that while leaving the long side of the cable as it was (was double shielded), and experimenting with (touching/bending) the short side i could first time let the ghosting dissappear (when coming close with the magnet for EMI reducing to the plug of the problematic cable) and reduce the red dots to a minimum (bending/moving individual cables near the plug).
So far i was really happy and it seemed that i will finally succeed somehow...

So the next thing i did was that i did want to redo the shielding on the short side i was experimenting with because i could reproduce from very bad picture to almost perfect at will. But when i did remove the shielding i had an idea to try to not shield it all but to just twist it as much as possible (really, really firm) and keep it in that state with black tape...

And i was very suprised to see that when i did turn it on i had an almost perfect picture WITHOUT SHIELDING!!! WTF!
I did some testing and ghosting did not appear, despite i was moving the cable and trying to produce it...
So i thought, okay, you wanna play me? I play you! And removed the double shielding on the long cable side completely and twisted it like the short side really firm and black taped it together. Result?

Well, not as good as before, but no ghosting and some random dots, this time in all colors! Not bad at all - NO SHIELDING!
So then i did a layer of alu foil on top of the black tape (of course again insulation) and? Only very few dots, red only. No ghosting.

It was already 1.30am so i thought i will additionally shield also the short side now and i should have a stable picture!
But you guessed it, i did shield the short side AND AGAIN GHOSTING!!! I was not amused and really tired and decided to try more the next day...

My conclusion so far is:

1) Daniel, please use a different double sided tape for holding the driver board onto the plasti frame behind the display.
2) SHIELDING IS NOT THE (MAIN) PROBLEM. It is the twisting of the cables - to put them as firm as possible together.
3) I still think my board is somewhere on the outer range of specs for some reason and that i why i have to do all that experimenting to produce a almost stable picture. I am pretty certain that if i test another RiftUP! it will work with the same cable i use now immediately. So please, Daniel, send me another kit, i will send the one i have to you.

I will try more tomorrow (actually today) but have to travel for work to another country on Friday and will be back on 13th.

Post by **mr.uu** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:17 am

Played today HL2 and Kairo for 30min. Looks so much better.
The randomly flashing (all color) dots are noticeable on dark scenes or dark part of the picture only.

Nevertheless i redid the shielding on the short side but can not make it better. It seems to me that when i shield with alu foil only red dots appear - but i could be wrong on that.

I do want to try more (specially VorpX) wen i come back from my short trip.

Post by **Nick3DvB** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:48 am

Maybe fully un-twist the short end and use a thin ribbon cable ferrite on it instead:

Post by **mr.uu** » Thu May 08, 2014 3:41 pm

Good idea, Nick.
I should have ring magnets somewhere. I will try that after my return.

I would like to share a few impressions after all:
1) the distortion is slightly to much. I did adjust really quick, BUT if you rotate your head you have the feeling as if you are on mushrooms (i suppose). I could not find one experience so far which uses FHD prototype distortion. And i did configure the EDID as Rift FHD prototype.
2) the picture is overall much better. I keep the brightness low (also because the flashing of the remaining dots is then less noticeable), but that display gives you a great picture.
3) while i do see the 60Hz flicker while looking at the desktop i soon forget it when in game/experience. So far i did not try to run it any higher (with custom .inf, maybe? I doubt it is even possible, but Daniel could tell us)
4) motion blur is still there but i think it is less. Difficult to measure, so i could be wrong on that but for sure it is not more than DK1.
5) i think the weight is a bit more and i feel it. Also because i have now the display manual setting all out - see next point.
6) the FOV practically is less, because i run it now with the display all out (before all in). I have i wide IPD (69.5cm), so this is how i avoid seeing the borders of the screen.
7) screendoor ist still visible. But it just adds so much if you can see more details in distance. Still not where it should be, but unless we will have "Retina Oculus" this will always be the case.
8) having to use window mode and manually dragging it to the Rift display is not convenient, especially if you are used to run it in clone mode. Btw, is there a generic command line option for all the unity experiences to run on the second display?
9) i am really looking to use VorpX when i come back and have more time for testing. I do believe that this upgrade could shine with VorpX because of the detail settings which can be made (vignette size, etc.).
10) to avoid this cabling issues it would have been better (imho) to use two HDMI sockets (on the PCBs facing inwards) on both boards. So we could use our own HDMI cable for connection. Only the Rift housing would have to be cut out a little where the cable no enters the Rift. I would choose this method in favor of all the cabling hassle...
11) could not test the backlight strobing feature because it was not working at all.
12) overall the RiftUP! Kit is very well done (configuration logic, PCBs fit perfectly) and if working as expected definately worth the upgrade for every DK1 owner - who can afford it.

Post by **lealjay** » Thu May 08, 2014 5:21 pm

Hi , for the correct distortion did you try using the RiftUP HMD Opener ? https://github.com/FloopCZ/HMD-SDK-Open ... static.exe
Just patch the oculus plugin .dll of your game or whatever it's named (it will automatically make a backup) , it will adjust the size of the displayed picture to use the 5.9" RiftUP screen as seen here http://riftup.rozsnyo.com/static/riftup-fov.png

Post by **cgp44** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:34 pm

thanks for finding the opener.

I have just received the connector and pins for the hirose df14 20pos 1.25mm
connector. Boy are those pins tiny.

I have finally figured out a way to put these tiny pin/clippers onto the wire.

I've now successfully put small wires on the connector. The row of wires will be soldered to the
hdmi wires.
It is reasonably easy now to crimp onto pins (clips really) still on the slotted strip, a short piece of wire.
A cheap crimper can do the final sqeezing of the crimp profile so the pin slips into the connector without much force.
The attempt to put pins on the ends of wires attached to an hdmi cable is too messy.
So I have now a nice connector+pined wires awaiting to be soldered to the hdmi cable.
But double drat I have used up somehow all of 100 pins (to get one 40 pinned cable)??
so I have to order another $30 digikey delivery.

Post by **mr.uu** » Fri May 09, 2014 1:32 am

lealjay wrote:Hi , for the correct distortion did you try using the RiftUP HMD Opener ? https://github.com/FloopCZ/HMD-SDK-Open ... static.exe
Just patch the oculus plugin .dll of your game or whatever it's named (it will automatically make a backup) , it will adjust the size of the displayed picture to use the 5.9" RiftUP screen as seen here http://riftup.rozsnyo.com/static/riftup-fov.png

Thank you for this. I do not understand why Karel did not already send this information to every RiftUp!Now backer...

Post by **Bloump** » Sun May 11, 2014 7:41 am

mr.uu wrote:
lealjay wrote:Hi , for the correct distortion did you try using the RiftUP HMD Opener ? https://github.com/FloopCZ/HMD-SDK-Open ... static.exe
Just patch the oculus plugin .dll of your game or whatever it's named (it will automatically make a backup) , it will adjust the size of the displayed picture to use the 5.9" RiftUP screen as seen here http://riftup.rozsnyo.com/static/riftup-fov.png
Thank you for this. I do not understand why Karel did not already send this information to every RiftUp!Now backer...

Well, i don't understand me neither... as well as i don't understand no replys on indiegogo, on private mail, on this forum as well.. no shipment update too.. the last one was this already finished week... i understand perfectly delays and problems and all, but for gosh sake.. say it!