If I put anything together, I'll post a pic.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
"Application: Smartphones"Display size: 5 inches
Number of pixels: 1,080 x 1,920 (full HD)
Pixel density: 443 ppi
Application: Smartphones
That's actually what I tried first. It did that, so I plugged in the button board.space123321 wrote:Yikes - that does not look good.
As an FYI - I run my DIY Rift without my 'button board' plugged in... simply plug the unit in and it is up and running.
Euurgh! Gutted; after waiting for it so long!Yoder808 wrote:Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!
5" could work - 11cm x 6.2cm - 5.5 IPD - it's pushing it for sure.MrGreen wrote:5 inches is too small no?
The current prototype screen is what, 5.6"? And Dykus mentioned the ideal size would be something around 7" if I recall correctly.
I know right. I just finished my 3rd foam board prototype/ski goggle mount too.zacherynuk wrote:Euurgh! Gutted; after waiting for it so long!Yoder808 wrote:Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!
Nope. Nothing. The power button does shut it off and on though.zacherynuk wrote:That to me looks like a badly programmed driver board / driver board failure.
Does the button board do anything ? - Does the screen flicker at all when input is assigned?
Oklahoma. Perhaps, I'd drive to troubleshoot the thing if need be.zacherynuk wrote:Where you from? - Perhaps somebody within cheap postal distance (or better) will have another board / lcd / cable to test with.
Yes, I bought it from Vitrolight. I haven't contacted them yet, in case I'm just a moron. I noticed his eBay store said he's away until October 7th. I'll send him an email. Mine didn't come with a power supply, I'm not sure if that's par for the course. I also have a jumper for power (3.3V 5V and 12V). I've tried all 3 at the correct voltage levels, but the panel behaves the same.zacherynuk wrote:Where did you buy from ? Vitrolight have always been awesome with their support to me, but they seem gone now- or perhaps just too busy building rift panels..
If it's a cheap multi selector PSU, make sure it has enough juice at 12v - often the cheap ones claim 1500ma but only supply <500ma at 12v ! Now you've said that I think you may make it work using the power of... powerYes, I bought it from Vitrolight. I haven't contacted them yet, in case I'm just a moron. I noticed his eBay store said he's away until October 7th. I'll send him an email. Mine didn't come with a power supply, I'm not sure if that's par for the course. I also have a jumper for power (3.3V 5V and 12V). I've tried all 3 at the correct voltage levels, but the panel behaves the same.
Thanks for the help guys!
Out of the box, it was set at 5V. I tried it with my cheapo universal power supply at 5V, no joy. I then tried 12V set at 12V, and 3.3V set at 3.3V, same result. (although at 3.3V, it would 'kick off and on' every few seconds.) My cheapo power supply is rated for 1300mA, or 500mA USB.3dvison wrote:Thought Yoder808 said he set it to 5v ? Should it be set at 12v ?
I think it's correct. I'm afraid to try it backwards. My universal power supply has different tips, and each can be put on in any way. I've got mine setup for positive tip. I'll post pictures.3dvison wrote:OK.
Don't think this would be the problem, but Is it a barrel type connecter, and if so, is the polarity correct ?
It does look more like a cable problem.
Here's the datasheet for the LCD panel - http://hgc41198.chinaw3.com/docs/HV056WX1-100.pdfandroid78 wrote:do you have a datasheet for the actual display? The microdisplays I've played with in the past essentially have color data lines, a Hsync, Vsync and pixel clock (also blank and enable). It almost looks to me as if either the Hsync and Vsync are round the wrong way, or the clock and Hsync are round the wrong way, or one isn't connected. It may be worth a test, if you can isolate the data clock lines (h/v/clock) from the display and try disconnecting them one at a time and see which one has/hasn't an effect on the picture you are seeing.
More then likely one of the clock lines is just not connecting properly.
No I don't have scope. I was also unable to find the datasheet for the board.android78 wrote:how did you determine the correct pinout for the driver board? I guess you don't have a scope that you can use to see if you're getting the right kind of signals at the display end?
And I can confirm with both a similar DVI small board and the 7-in1 I use a 12v 1500ma - So it looks like your multi PSU isn't supplying enough juice.Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen.Really narrows it down, eh?
If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.
Thanks for the advise! So, just to be clear... you're saying set the jumper to 3.3V, but supply it 12V (at at least 750ma)? I guess the jumpers don't exactly work like expected?Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen.Really narrows it down, eh?
If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.
Is yours set on 3.3V on the jumper?zacherynuk wrote:And I can confirm with both a similar DVI small board and the 7-in1 I use a 12v 1500ma - So it looks like your multi PSU isn't supplying enough juice.Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen.Really narrows it down, eh?
If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.
Double and Triple check the pins on the polarity!! - And remember current is drawn, voltage is delivered - so you can up the A but NOT the V
On my small board, on the jumper block I have one jumper closest to the capacitor and next to it it is marked 3.3v - but I do not know what this jumper actually does. On this board the power into the LVDS cable come from a connector near the edge.Yoder808 wrote:Is yours set on 3.3V on the jumper?zacherynuk wrote:And I can confirm with both a similar DVI small board and the 7-in1 I use a 12v 1500ma - So it looks like your multi PSU isn't supplying enough juice.Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen.Really narrows it down, eh?
If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.
Double and Triple check the pins on the polarity!! - And remember current is drawn, voltage is delivered - so you can up the A but NOT the V
I'll be able to when back in a few hours... but my small board is not the hdmi one...Yoder808 wrote:Thanks zacherynuk! If it's not too much trouble, could you post pics?![]()
Thanks for the help guys, I can see why this is such a great community.
Yes, just like that. The jumper sets what voltage the screen's logic board gets, which should almost always be 3.3v. The driver board itself has a few regulators, so it needs at least 9-12v to function properly.Yoder808 wrote:Thanks for the advise! So, just to be clear... you're saying set the jumper to 3.3V, but supply it 12V (at at least 750ma)? I guess the jumpers don't exactly work like expected?
Regards,
Brandon
That's for the backlight. There are either three or two wires, depending on what kind of cable you get. One is 12v straight from the barrel connector, one is the PWM signal to adjust brightness, and the optional third wire is ground, and is redundant.zacherynuk wrote:On this board the power into the LVDS cable come from a connector near the edge.
android78 wrote:wow... I hope that setting the jumper to 12v for the screen power hasn't fried its chips. trying to drive 3.3v circuit at 12v is usually a quick way to let the magical smoke out.
Gutted for youYoder808 wrote:android78 wrote:wow... I hope that setting the jumper to 12v for the screen power hasn't fried its chips. trying to drive 3.3v circuit at 12v is usually a quick way to let the magical smoke out.Yeah, I fear that too. But it came out of the box set at 5V (with no instructions, etc), which is initially what I tried (with a 5V supply), then 3.3V. It behaved the same as it does now... I'm looking for a 12V, 1A power supply now.
EDIT: Tried it with a 12V 1A power supply, positive tip, same result. I think it was DOA, I'll see what Vitrolight says when he gets back.