Hi All,

I have been pondering the idea of getting some New DLP S3D Projectors..

I currently use some uncertified DLP Projectors and while they work there are some limitations.. One is that I can ONLY Gami in a 3072x68 res and I need to wear my glasses upside down..

I am still looking inot what DLP Projectors to get but I was wondering what you think.. Is it time to get New Certfied DLP Projectors and game in at least 720P and wear the glasses like a Normal person..

I would have to get 3 New Projectors and a New screen Possibly bigger and a Widescreen format 16:9. Would like to get a larger image for my Flight Sims..
The Modders that brought us Falcon 4 BMS has made a new Version of BMS v4.32 and brought us DX9 Support so I can Play F4 BMS in S3D Once Again and it does look Awesome..

Well I will have to save some bucks but I figure If I get some new bulbs and sell these on Ebay or something I could start getting some new projectors ae early as February..

But I would like to turn them ALL on at Once and am thinking wait till I get them all bought to get it setup to keep the Brightness the same on all 3 Projectors..

I was also thinking of possibly going with a DLP PRojection HDTV?? I know a more costly road but perhaps they will last longer?? OR is there any plans on making some larger 40"+ LCD Screens that are nVidia Certified??

Well I would like to hear some others opinions and what you would do??
I am looking for alternatives..

DLP projectors do look pretty attractive. I mean, in terms of bang-for-your-buck, it doesn't get much better. Right now you can get the Acer H5360 for around $500 which is awesome. You can easily have a 100"+ screen if you have the room. If you look at 3D monitors, then you will spend $600+ for just a 27". Unfortunately, 3D Vision Surround does not work with 3DTV Play. So you can't just get 3 HDTVs and expect that to work. Maybe the Mitsu RP TVs will work, but any other type of HDTV is probably out of the question. Not to mention the space requirements for DLP TVs, I just can't see how it has any advantage over projectors (you do still need to replace bulbs with RP). Plus, a decent LCD/Plasma 3D HDTV will easily cost as much (or more) than getting all 3x DLP projectors. So, really, it seems that going with DLP projectors is a clear choice.

Personally, I am looking at getting the Optoma GT750E, which is one of the only 720P HDMI 1.4a compatible projectors on the market (and certainly the most affordable). It also has a VESA sync port, so you can plug just about any old pair of shutter glasses into it if need be (in addition to DLP-Link, of course). However, its not an Nvidia certified projector, so it can't be used for 3DV Surround. It works only with 3DTV Play and other HDMI 1.4a software. Doesn't really matter I guess to you, since you could go with the Acer H5360, which is a lot cheaper. Optoma also has some certified projectors, the HD66, but I can't speak for the quality. I at least have read dozens of good reviews for the Acer.

The other option, would be to get 3x 27" 3D monitors, like the new ASUS VG278H. Its not going to match the size of the projector setup, but 27" is pretty big on a desktop. If you sit close enough, it will cover your entire horizontal field of vision. And you have the advantage of using the 3D Vision 2 glasses, so you get a much brighter image, less ghosting and, of course, 1080P (more than double the resolution). So what you lose in size, maybe you will make up with quality (or at least graphical detail). But that will probably exceed what you current rig can handle, you may need something like the GTX 590 if you expect good framerates at triple-head 1080P 3D.

So I'm not sure what to tell you. I guess it really depends on whether you are happy with your current system or not. I have seen the pictures you posted, it looks pretty good the way it is. Certainly going with 3x 720P projectors would be an improvement, and with the certification you could wear the glasses normal. But I honestly can't say it would be a huge improvement worth all the cost and the effort. Maybe its worth it to you, I don't know. I mean, I spent a bunch of money on my BacktopVR rig ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ni-QFyfZ8rY ), and most people would probably think I pissed my money away. So who am I to tell you whats worth it or not. Just my 2 cents.

I pretty much agree with cyber, going from 1024x768 to 1280x720 projectors won't make much of a difference in image resolution (17% increase) and that doesn't really justify the added cost to me.

Going for 3D LCDs may also be a downgrade for you since you'll start experiencing ghosting, which your current solution is free of. Not sure the enhanced resolution would really justify that, and the smaller screen size won't help either.

For now the best solution would probably be to find a solution for the eye inversion (with a modification of the glasses for example) and to wait for DLP projectors capable of 3D at 60Hz per eye in 1080p (most probably in 2012).

i'd upgrade if i was you, then you would be in compliance. If you can actaully sell the hardware you have now to someone that really wants it then the overall cost to you would be less.

I really don't understand why you don't use e-dims with your setup though. I am not sure if e-dims are compatable with 3 displays though, but you do only have one output vga coming out from your video card hey? I guess you want a larger viewing angle but what about those mits dlp glasses. You might as well wait for 3d vision 2 dlp projectors if theres such a thing. I bet your setup will be good either way, hope it works out for you.

Also can't you just change your convergence setting to the opposite side with your 3d vision glasses? I can view perfect 3d on my 1024x768 85hz dlp projector with 3d vision glasses gaming without 3d vision locked convergence games, but with huge ghosting.

Hi All,

Thnx for the Suggestions..+I will NOT be buying this sytem till at least February so I can wait it out till then and see if anything new comes down the pike.. I would like to get Some new DLP Projectors. they can scale up to a higher rez so I may just get the Native 1024x768 they are arounf 350 Bucks lil chaeper..

But Since I am getting my WaterCooler setup First, I will try and decide before I buy some new Bulbs for my Current Projectors.. I don't use the EDimensional one as the Older drivers will NOT work with the Newer 480 GTX Card so they are OUT and besides I like the nVidia Vision Glasses better even tho I have to wear them upsidedown..

I tried finding an inverter but there is None to be found.. I am not sure if there are other solutions but since I am probally one of the few using older Projectors, there may never be a solution as there is NO need for it basically.. But if you guys know of a solution so I can wear the glasses properly I am all ears..

I had also emailed nVidia and they said there will be a new list for Displays coming out soon perhaps it already has but I did NOT Notice?? I guess they would have to make a new projector to be compatible with the version 2 of the Vision glasses they make a Monitor??

I have some time before I decide just trying to get it all sorted now.. Is there any rumors of NEW S3D Capable Projectors on the horizon?? If so any links or whatnot..

One way to get around inverting glasses is to open them up, and reverse the shutter driving traces, right shutter to left and vice versa. Would be some tough soldering, but totally possible!

Well from what I see the little circuit board is on Both sides of the glasses, I don't think it has just 1 board.. I could reverse them but would have to have wires on the outside of the glassess.

I can open them up as I had them over a year and the warranty is over. to see for sure but I dont think that idea will work..

I could just unplug extend the wire and reverse the wires but would still have wires on the outside??

How much space is there on the inside? You could use very thin enamel coated wire to do the extensions, that might be thin enough to run inside the shell of the glasses.

Or, you could just deal with some wire running along the top of your glasses, and dab on some epoxy to keep them from moving.

I heard someone on the Nvidia forum talking about doing the 3D Vision setup wizard, and in the end part where it shows the green triangle just choosing the wrong ones on purpose. Then supposedly it switched eyes. I have not confirmed this, worth a shot I guess.

@ The_Nephilim: bit OT, but what watercooling setup are you geting and what is it cooling?

I'm just building a new system myself currently, just speccing out the watercooler atm, and whether to go with a GTX590 or a pair of 580's... (580's seem better performing). After having watercooling on my last 2 PC's, I find it hard to go back to noisy fans and higher temps...

Re LCD monitor ghosting... its wierd, but I hardly ever have noticable ghosting on my Alienware. I have sometimes experienced quite serious ghosting, but have always managed to trace it to a driver or USB port problem - generally, its pretty mint, and definitely ghosts LESS than my CRT with eDimensionals, in which the ghosting made it significantly harder to play team fortress.

So, 3 27 LCD's could be worthwhile...

I've never seen a 3D LCD monitor without visible ghosting, it would be nice if you could take pictures of the DDD image with a camera to see the result on your monitor (Alienware OptX AW2310 right ?) :
http://www.tridef.com/support/images/co ... 080-lr.png

Hi Wiredearp,

I am building a custom system to cool my Intel i5 2500K CPU and a eVGA 480GTX GPU. here is the parts list:


OK I think I got a Basic Parts list..

1. Swiftech Apogee HD ...CPU Block....$74.95
1a. http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeHD.aspx
1b. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27631 GOOD Block
1c. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...l=g30c323s1117



2. Danger Den... GPU Block.....$114.95
2a. http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-gt...r-version.html



3. Swiftech 35x.. Pump.....$99.95
3a. http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx



4. XSPC RX Radiator..120.3 & 120.1......$94.99.......$56.99
4a. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/85...tor_Rev_2.html
4b. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/85..._Radiator.html


5. MCPx35 Reservoir.... BOUGHT........$29.95
5a. http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35xreservoir.aspx


6. PrimoChill Tubing RED........$2.25 Foot need 10Feet
6a. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23368


7. Silver coil........$4.99
7a. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sikibyia.html


8. Compression Fittings (9).........$3.99
8a. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30115

9. Compression Fitting 45 Degree (1)......$16.99
9a. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimabl3id1od2.html









I think that guy must of been full of it hehe, If you do NOT select the correct Ones you see it will Fail and NOT Enable S3D..



As for switching the wires Impossible. the Right side has 2 wires into the lens and the other side it is directly on the circuit board with NO Way of Switching it..

If you upgrade to 120hz your gonna get some more frames per seconds too hey? Is'nt the vertical sync enabled in 3d so from 85hz to 120hz is an extra 15 fps on each eye. Plus the extra hz in bandwidth for a clearer image, less strobe noise.

Ya, The more I think aboutit NEW Projectors are going to have to happen..

@ Fredz: actually, since I've built my new PC I have to say I've been getting noticeably more ghosting. It seems to be timing related, as it only is really bad at the top 1/3 of the screen (although brights at the bottom of the screen also ghost). I managed to fix it significantly last night by deactivating the drivers, unplugging it, replugging it, and reenabling the drivers. MASSIVE difference, which makes me wonder how many people experience this problem and just think that 3D Vision is crap. I can prove to myself that its a timing thing, as when its not working right, when i look at the 3D Vision slideshow, the 'tomb raider on boat' picture is massively ghosted. When its working correctly, i only get a bit of ghosting on the bright white ship body at the bottom. Actually, now I think about it, I should probably also check that I have my monitor set up correctly in terms of overdrive settings...

How do I get the DDD driver image, do I need to install DDD to do this?

The ghosting is ANNOYING. However, the image on the rest of the screen is still clearer than it was with my eDimensionals and a CRT. I think its due to the brightness of the display meaning everything still seems clearer, whereas on the CRT it often was almost like playing in a rain shower due to the effect of the ghosting.

You just have to open the image in the 3D Vision image viewer and take a photo of the screen through each lens of the glasses.

Fredz linked to the image earlier in this thread. You just need to rename the image from *.png to *.pns. Then open it with the Nvidia photo viewer.

I should probably mention that looking at photos has less ghosting than actually playing a game. I believe this is because photos use a lower refresh rate, or do something else special. I got tripped up with this when I reviewed the Acer HN274H, initially thinking there was almost no ghosting. This was because I was testing with a set of images I took, and they did appear to have very low ghosting. Later when playing the same games I did notice a bit more ghosting. But it was never as bad as people claim on the Nvidia forums, so maybe it is just a USB timing glitch or something like that.

I'll try and take some photos to show both the ghosting on brights (mainly at top and bottom) and the lack of ghosting on other shots. Im starting to suspect that part of the reason I never notice the ghosting is that the ghosting is minimal on darker textures, and most of the games I play have dark backgrounds and few bright lights (Left4Dead, D&D Online, BlackShark).

I've also started to think that perhaps the 3D sync signals would be best coming directly from the output device, rather than the computer. I'm wondering if this is the reason for my occasionally increased ghosting. Theoretically, the screen saying it has finished drawing would probably be more accurate than the video card saying it has finished sending a picture, since it could actually display a certain amount after receiving the picture.

@ The_Nephilim: sounds like its going to be a nice setup. What size tubing is that going to be, 3/8 or 1/2"?

Also, whats the difference between the MCP655 and the MCP35X?

I'm just speccing out a similar system for my i7/580 setup currently...

I am going with 1/2" I.D.!! With the MCP 35x You can attach a Reservoir directly to the Pump..

I am also going with this CPU Block:


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10220 ... 0c323s1117

you will need another Block for your GPU as you have the 580 I have a 480.. I read that having the ALL copper Blocks are better.. So I got ALL copper in my setup if you noticed.. I also added the Sliver of Silver to keep the Algae from building up vs getting any biocide..

@ The_Nephilim: 1/2"! Nice. I'm probably going to go with 3/8" since I hear its not so important nowadays to get 1/2" with the low resistance blocks that are around these days. 1/2" def looks sexier tho

Silver seems a better idea than biocide. Whats the advantage with the all copper block? I do know its a good idea to not mix different block materials (such as mixing aluminium with copper). I'll be trying to avoid that myself...
That block looks MEAN however which is always a selling point

You can attach a reservoir to a MCP655 as well. From what I can tell, the main differences is a MCP655 has slightly higher flow, lower pressure, no PWM adjustment, bigger, but is a little quieter. I'm still tossing up which to get, since I want minimal noise... thinking the 355 is probably a better investment however since its newer and smaller.

Re ghosting: I was trying to take some photos through the lenses of 3D Vision last night,and I noticed if the 3D Vision lens is not directly pointing to the middle of the screen (ie, if you tilt it up or down so the middle of the lense faces the bottom or top of the monitor) then ghosting is markedly increased. So the angle of the glasses to the monitor affects the ghosting significantly. I couldn't figure out why this would be. Do projector users experience the same problem?

http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx


I mean the Pump gets Directly Hooked to the Reservoir. look at the 3rd pic to see it it has a lesser Footprint then with the other pump/reservoir units...

Ya 1/2" will just move more water..
Thge advantage to an all copper block is that it dissipates heat better.. besides like you said it is best to NOT mix Metals and with the Rad being All copper inside it was best to keep ALL the parts Copper..

@WiredEarp: The edges of the glasses also ghost a whole lot more than the middle.