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But does it come in black?...
It's quite simple actually:wnielsenbb wrote:Anyone know if that is right? I never read anywhere you get a 75% light reduction using shutterglasses.
You could bump up to high mode for 2500 lumens.
In any case, 450 lumens isn't horrible. Quoting a review for the Sony VW60: "Brightness was very good in best mode, cranking out 493 lumens. This drops significantly to 329 lumens in low lamp mode. "
If you will close one eye, then you will not notice that a room have become twice darker.Likay wrote:Then both eyes have to share these 45% which leaves only maximum 22.5% of light to each eye.
Dual projector rig is not officialy supported by nvidia stereo drivers. There may to be some "box" that switch signal between projectors. _In theory_, it's expansive, but interesting technology: 1) more refresh (60 Hz is bad for eyes), 2) no crosseyed ghosting (no ghosting at all with dlp).A dual projector rig is better because you have one projector for each eye.
You forgot the 50% duty cycle of shutter glasses (each eye gets a completely black image 1/2 the time).Nekto wrote:If you will close one eye, then you will not notice that a room have become twice darker.Likay wrote:Then both eyes have to share these 45% which leaves only maximum 22.5% of light to each eye.So there should not be halfing of perceiving brightness, only 45% multiplier will stay and we will get 2500 x 45% = 1125 lumens.
Dual projector rig is not officialy supported by nvidia stereo drivers. There may to be some "box" that switch signal between projectors. _In theory_, it's expansive, but interesting technology: 1) more refresh (60 Hz is bad for eyes), 2) no crosseyed ghosting (no ghosting at all with dlp).A dual projector rig is better because you have one projector for each eye.
"each eye gets a completely black image 1/2 the time" do not contradicts to what I've said, - if one eye is closed there is no darkening, - there eyes get the same light as they switch in turn and where each is closed 1/2 of all time. Time (simplified) = left opened/right closed + left closed/right opened. But maybe you talk about other "time" period.BlackShark wrote:You forgot the 50% duty cycle of shutter glasses (each eye gets a completely black image 1/2 the time).
Or use a "switching box", or some hack of nvidia's drivers. Technically it's not hard to switch signal between two devices. Probably there are (or will be) solutions. iZ3D drivers cost $50, and I doubt they are the same good as by nvidia.You can use the iZ3D drivers instead.
You're right. They are actually better.Nekto wrote:iZ3D drivers cost $50, and I doubt they are the same good as by nvidia.
Ok. To clarify:Nekto wrote:"each eye gets a completely black image 1/2 the time" do not contradicts to what I've said, - if one eye is closed there is no darkening, - there eyes get the same light as they switch in turn and where each is closed 1/2 of all time. Time (simplified) = left opened/right closed + left closed/right opened. But maybe you talk about other "time" period.BlackShark wrote:You forgot the 50% duty cycle of shutter glasses (each eye gets a completely black image 1/2 the time).
Or use a "switching box", or some hack of nvidia's drivers. Technically it's not hard to switch signal between two devices. Probably there are (or will be) solutions. iZ3D drivers cost $50, and I doubt they are the same good as by nvidia.You can use the iZ3D drivers instead.
What If I'm using a PS3 or an Xbox 360? For example, I'm currently playing Avatar the game in Stereo 3D via my Xbox 360 and my Samsung PN50A450. Sony has announced that they will have many more S3D games coming in 2010, and you can simply use a PS3. My question is what shutterglasses/emitter would be required to use that along with the ACer H5360. For some reason, when I got the Samsung SSG1000 package, I thought I would be able to use the glasses/emitter on other 3D enabled displays, not just my 3D plasma. I assumed all 3D displays would have a plug for the emitter like on the back of my Samsung plasma, but it appears I was completely off the mark in that assumption.mickeyjaw wrote:Anthony1: You need to buy the NVIDIA glasses if you have 8800GTX or later NVIDIA card and are planning on using the new NVIDIA drivers.
If you are planning on using the old(free) nvidia driver with a 7900GTX or older, you need to buy some old-skool E-Dimensional glasses / ELSA Revelators / X-Force 3d or similar which will come with a VGA pass-through dongle with a 3-pin DIN plug you can plug your emitter into. You can also get/make a splitter cable to enable you to use the glasses that came with your dongle as well as your samsung glasses (assuming the glasses/dongle kit you buy is of the wired variety). There was a seller on fleabay with the wired ELSA revelators and dongle for ~£10 delivered last time i checked (I bought some off him a couple of months ago).
I think if you are using an ATI card you are pretty much stuffed ATM until IZ3D fix the shutter support in their drivers, at which point you will be able to use IZ3d Drivers and an oldskool VGA dongle.
Check out the nzone forums. plenty of folks have this projector with Nvidia glasses and claim no ghosting.Ardov wrote:Hi. This is my first post in MTBS3D. I have one question. I am interested in getting the ACER H5360 only for 3D movies. Has anyone tested this projector with the E-Dimensional VGA Dongle and E-dimensional (or X3D) glasses? What about ghosting? I have seen reports across the web that e-dimensional glasses don't ghost compared to nVidia glasses. Can anyone please confirm this?
You know, I thought I read that somewhere but upon further review I guess I'm mistaken. Must have mixed it up with another model.Ardov wrote:Are you sure about that cybereality? I think that was true for other Acer model x1130 or x1261, i can't recall which one right now, but certainly not for H5360.