This idea is for using a DLP projector at 60Hz while your shutterglasses shutter at 180Hz but actually I should say 90Hz per eye.
EDIT: this idea turned out to be not really usable. See the Oct 21st post for details why.
First let's see if I understand DLP projectors in general. Please correct what I have wrong.
A DLP takes in one complete frame at a time and then shows it so it's not like a CRT that traces a beam across it's face that takes more time to paint the image. A DLP has a color wheel and one chip with mirrors on it. The color wheel has three colors and some black inbetween the colors. Normally for my projector, the wheel spins at 60Hz and the mirrors change during the black phase for each new color. That means that at 60Hz it's actually projecting 180 images per second: 1 red + 1 green + 1 blue = 1/60th sec. So when you project a frame-sequential movie, it shows 3 left-eye colors and then 3 right-eye colors: L-red, L-green, L-blue, R-red, R-green, R-blue. Now switch the greens and shutter your glasses at 90Hz. You get L-red, R-green, L-blue, R-red, L-green, R-blue, and so on. So you see now alternating frames are still left/right and the RGB sequence is still in tact. Crazy eh?
Let's talk about the video output for a sec. Since you switched the green channels of corresponding 3d image pairs, odd frames would look like green/magenta anaglyphs and even frames would look like magenta/green anaglyphs or visa versa. This is something like a process called Stereobright but it would interleave alternating left/right views instead of outputting to a dual LCD projector system. Holy crap, I can do this! I was hoping to give this to someone else who would try it for me.
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Next I need to generate the shutterglass signals. I think I can just use RAGEDemon's 555 timer circuit in oscillator mode set to the right freq and that should do it.
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Then start the shuttering with E-D Activator.
Why do all this? Well just to see if it works. It would be good for others to be able to buy a cheap 60Hz DLP projector and have it function as if it was a 180Hz 3d projector. Personally, I've said elsewhere that I'm happy at 60Hz.
I'm going to have to try this eventually. I hate to say it but check back in 2-4 months. Time goes fast for me. Next on my todo list is some more posting and hard drive data recovery.
Please post comments in the meantime.
--- iondrive ---
PS: next I'll have to ask iZ3D to create a StereoBright output mode and maybe an alternating version too. Those guys are great but I don't really know if I want to bother them with that. It's hard to know if anyone will actually use it. Also the alternating version would have the same sync problems as their shutterglass mode.