Hi all,

I just got my Fuji 3D camera, quite amazing! Now for myself i am planning to build a proper 3D system, but of course I now want friends (overseas) to be able to see the 3D pics and videos I am going to put on my website.
For this to work, only option is to send them some cheap Anaglyphic glasses.
I can get the cardboard type here in New Zealand in three colors: Red/Blue or Green/Magenta or Red/Cyan...
Assuming I set the output of the conversion program to the correct colors for the glasses, what is the difference?

Does one work better with 'color' pictures then the other?

Note this would not be for gaming, but for normal photos and videos of the real world

Thanks, Bart

If you have to go for anaglyph then choose red/cyan for "best" color reproduction.
However: Store or distribute your images in full color jps-images. These can easily be viewed all softwares for stereoscopic viewing. I think all of them supports anaglyphic viewing and some even have optimzed anaglyphic modes as well as the quite comfortable "Dubois" algorithm. Previewimages can of course be anaglyphic though.
Well, just a reflection of what "system" i'd like to be official standard. You're of course free to do as you please!

Cheers!

I would go with red/cyan. Best quality overall.

Thanks guys, I ordered a handfull, see how it goes.
It seems there are all kinds of ways to encode these Anaglyphic images, including what seems to be very advanced stuff; I read about Eric Dubois manipulations to reduce ghosting...
After converting from the Fuji camera, any program which does a good job generating the pictures? Any system you would think works the best? Half-color?

Thanks

As said before: Always store the original images in their original format! You'll loose colorinformation by converting to anaglyph which is very hard to retrieve afterwards with a somewhat decent quality! The Duboisalgorithm is used to minimize a phenomena which is called "retinal rivalry". This happens when pure nuances of red, green, blue or cyan is shown. It's obvious if you try to show a red nuance in both eyes and only the red lense will let through light. This is stressing for the brain to watch. Therefore some algorithms (like Dubois, optimized anaglyph etc) changes the most annoying colors before the images go through the anaglyph algorithm and therefore reduces the retinal rivalry.
It works but in return you have a worse colorimpression. For instance a red object will look brownish after it has passed the dubois algorithm. Same object will only be visible in one eye using standard anaglyphic.

Ghosting can actually increase sometimes when using optimized anaglyph but the image is more relaxing to view because of less retinal rivalry.

Best way to view/distribute stereoimages is in side-by-side *.jps images as is today (and of course the original images from the camera) and then view using your favourite stereoviewer. If you convert the images to anaglyph the jpeg algorithm is devastating for the original image. You'll get additional ghosting and worse separation. I've heard that *.png works better for anaglyph but i haven't tried it.

Like Likay said, you should be storing and distributing the images in a full-quality format. You can use a utility I wrote called MPO2JPS to convert the MPO files into the standard JPS file:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4419

Then you will just need to have your friends use a free JPS viewer like this one:
http://download.cnet.com/JPSViewer/3640 ... 99278.html

That program will display the JPS in the default Red/Blue anaglyph format. There are other programs too that will do the same thing. For example, if you buy the Nvidia 3D Vision or a Zalman Trimon monitor you can view JPS 3D images with Nvidia's image viewer in full quality, full color 3D. That is why it is best to only post JPS images. I hope that helps.

Thanks again for the extensive replies;

There are two things I try to achieve here.
First, I take pictures (and videos) with the new camera; There are generally from my travels, and I have a (private) website where I post the pictures for family at home (on the other side of the planet) to see what I have been up to. Til now, just mono pics. Note, this is a website with pics and text.

I just want to add a 3D area to the website, where friends can view the pics in 3D, without having to install all kinds of extra software; I can't see my old mum of 76 installing 3D software, let alone use it!

So, for the website, I want to upload pre-generated Red/Cyan pics (Gives me also full control over the quality). ** I am interested in your comment about the JPEG format. I will do some testing with this. Could just be the quality of saving (e.g. 80% or 100%) as this make a real difference. Else I will try a different format, as long as the web browsers can display it.

But, for myself, I am planning on buying a full 3D rig, for which I am doing research right now.
Years ago I purchased Edimensional 3D shutter glasses with a module which goes between computer and laptop; This worked quite well, _except_ on my LCD screens. So I was forced to use a bulky old monitor.
I have not tried it for some years, maybe later drivers improved this issue?
(Any comment on this welcome)

I am very interested in the IZ3D monitor, a dual-layer LCD as I understand it, with polarized glasses. I need to do more reading on this. I may start a new thread on this if I have any questions about it.

As for the Anaglyphic, I am waiting for the glasses, then some testing.

Thanks again,

Bart

I tried the newest eDimensional glasses for LCD (2 pair, Wireless) and tried them with 60Hz, 75Hz and even 80Hz on 3 different monitors and also 3 different PCs (even swapping the monitors) and had flicker and bad ghosting.

The glasses were not usable to me and my family so I returned them for a refund.

Sorry, eDimensional.

PS. after that I built a stereo mirror rig with 2 LCD monitors and a piece of glass instead of half-silvered mirror, works great!