Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

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RAGEdemon
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Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

Hello fellas,

Does anyone know how I might be able to make shutter glasses work with pure DVI devices such as projectors? :shutter

I was looking into making a device which would reference the vertical sync and then divide by 2 and clean to get the square wave that the old shutter glasses used i.e. ELSA, ED emitter etc, but it turns out the VSync is encoded into the rest of the data - there is no line to tap unlike the old VGA :(

I have tried putting it onto my second DVI > analogue port but the sync isn't the same. Even precise adjustments from custom resolutions at 0.001Hz accuracy keeps making the output go out of sync slowly but surely.

You would think the refresh rates would be identical in clone mode :roll:

There has to be a simple way of doing this. Any input would be very much appreciated :P

The only way I can see is to make a completely external microcontroller and it to be in sync via trial and error osing some kind of swiches... will need a lot of coding :(

What about programming a serial port to make a pin give out a square wave? Damnit! There was a guy doing just that on th old stereovision boards. USB to serial adapters are available cheap. :idea:

To coin a phrase... So close... yet so far :shutter

-- Shahzad.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by WheatstoneHolmes »

When I tested the eD glasses (the kind for LCD monitors) I used a DVI to VGA adapter that came with my ATI card and the sync worked, they say some DVI>VGA dongles do not transfer the sync however.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by cybereality »

I don't know much about DVI but its got to be possible somehow. Unfortunately I can't really help you there.

Seriously though, for all that work you might as well just get another projector and build a passive rig. Just my 2 cents.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

A wiser, richer man would do exactly that mate, but i'm not that wise or rich unfortunately :D

The problem with the dual is the lamp prices... I use the projector a lot... it's on about 10 hours a day. The lamp prices would kill me, + I need to spend on polarising filters and silver screens (although sharky has that one covered well - thanks mate!). And then the problem of my erratic gameplay patterns... the other projector would have to be on all the time too, or boot up and shut down often which would be even worse for the lamp. And then the gains on the screen are only 1.3... current screen is 2.5 gain and its barely satisfactory even at 3300 lumen :/ - i like blinding light in movies/games to really bring out the... umm... je ne sais quoi :D

I'm thinking of either a dvi to vga scaler, or perhaps a lab grade signal generator... perhaps one controlled through a computer using the usb interface.

Then I can write a proper tutorial on how to get non compat projectors working with even native DVI :D

Don't you just hate when you have a good project but just not the equipment to do it? :/

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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Morpheus »

If you are using the second video output with a dvi -> vga converter i suggest using a VGA dummy for simulating a monitor.

http://soerennielsen.dk/mod/VGAdummy/index_en.php

Make sure that within the nivdia global settings the Vertical Vsync is forced on.
Restart the computer, as the vga dummy isn't really plug and play :shock:

For generating a square wave you can use the 74HC76 JK-flipflop.
Setting the J, K, Set and Reset input to high.
Connect the Vsync signal to the Clock input of JK-FF and the Q output toggles at every Vsync pulse.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

Thanks for the reply Morpheus but the problem is that DVI doesn't have a blanking or vsync signal to lock onto unlike the VGA analogue signal Vsync pin. I need it to work on DVI only devices which cannot accept a VGA signal.

Also, in clone mode or even dual view, and even with 0.001Hz accuracy that the nVidia custom resolutions let you control isn't accurate enough to sync the signal for more than a few seconds until noticeable phase differense is observed.

Even in clone mode, the 2 devices differ in Vsync characteristics a tiny fraction, but it is enough to make them incompatible - probably because the digital signal needs to be coded into an actual vsync signal by the ramdac where it loses resolution whereas for DVI it will be passed straight through the digital interface in pure digital form as a part of the data.

I need to somehow decode the vsync data from the DVI line which will have to be tapped - I can't use any analogue parts :(

-- Shahzad
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Borg_Rootan »

First and second DVI/VGA port aren't synchronized (genlocked) on "normal" graphic cads. Maybe analog and DVI on same port are synchronized and you can use any DVI->DVI cable and clip wires for analog V-sync, ground, and +5V. Then you ca use anything like schematic on included picture.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Likay »

This is some valuable info for making stereobright (two lcd-projectors-homebrewed stereobright filters or modded beamers) systems as well. If the "green" wire could be exchanged between the outputs it should work. It require that both outputs are in total sync though. One more spike in the chest for easy homemade stereobright systems...
I know too little to be helpful regarding topic though. :(
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

Hi Borg_Rootan,

Thanks for the schematic. Unfortunately, the DVI port stops broadcasting analogue signals when a digital device is present,

I have already built a device which would take vsync in directly and from it allow you to change the phase of the incoming signal and output the square wave. silly me thinking digital interface would have a vsync line too :(

The info you provided about the ports not being genlocked is very helpful - i did not know that, and would have wasted further days trying to get them to sync :)

Likay, you are right my friend... very difficult to make home brewed devices with the likes of DRM tech on digital interface devices making sure nothing is being hacked etc :(

I wonder if I used the blue line setting on the iz3d driver and then used a Schmidt trigger photo resistor to pick up every other frame using the blue line as the light source, i might be able to get an accurate signal... sounds a little silly... how would i sample the blue line with so much light contamination around the screen :P
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Likay »

Try a lense aperture in combination with a blue colorfilter to focus on single pixels. Then an amplifier and schmitt-trigger (a comparator with positive feedback handles both...) really should do it. Should work fine... maybe... if only there's enough light left for the sensor to shift quickly enough. It's a quite delicate opration though. :shutter
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by martinlandau »

RAGEdemon wrote: Likay, you are right my friend... very difficult to make home brewed devices with the likes of DRM tech on digital interface devices making sure nothing is being hacked etc :(
I remember on slashdot.org for many years now they have complained about the "police state" in consumer electronics ruining our world. Many topics there talking about chips with DRM built in and why the EFF says more citizens should challenge this authority they are so easily surrendering to "the state." I watch Blake's 7, and The Prisoner, and Lexx and think nah, the state is our friend and big brother is looking out for you and me ;) So funny I remember reading about some cisco routers they sourced from china where the chinese government put in chips to spy on whoever was using that router, so the US government got thier own medicine and silly tricks played back on them - let that movie with sandra bullock - The Net.

I have analog crt projector that has already started causing me problems in DRM land. Just say NO to DRM control!
Lengths of Copyright, trademarks, UGG, when originally established, these things were not nearly as restrictive as they have grown to be in the modern day.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by cybereality »

I was just thinking, would it be possible to get the Vsync signal in software? I mean, you can set the VSync on within directx games and that seems to work fine over DVI. Also, the Nvidia 3D Vision glasses sync via USB and at 120Hz at that. Maybe you could build a similar device or, even better, just use the Nvidia emitter with a hacked driver. I don't know if any of those ideas would work but its food for thought.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

Hi cybereality, Likay,

Nvision glasses arrive in a few days. They will not work in winXP unfortunately, and the projector will have ghosting so i will not probably even be able to change the phase of the signal to remove the ghosting with it. I wouldn't even know where to begin to write the code to get the vsync values in software or even output it as a 50% duty cycle square wave at that frequency.

After considering a wide array of possibilities, many of them requiring expensive and complex hardware, with the help of you guys, the "silly" idea I had earlier is starting to make more and more sense...

The blue line code provided by the iZ3D driver is perfect. It provides a blue line over the last line or so of pixels at the bottom of the screen. The second half towards the right of the blue line will flicker to one eye perfectly.

All that needs done is to use one of these:

http://uk.farnell.com/honeywell-s-c/sdp ... dp/1201208" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheap. Simply, it is a light detector which will give a sharp square wave when put in front if this blue line to the right. The output from this will be 5v 50% duty cycle perfect square wave which can feed directly into the middle pin of the ELSA/ED wireless emitter. It can also drive the current drivers for wired glasses with a small modification, and pretty much anything that worked with the old nVidia driver.


There are 4 absolute gems we obtain with this solution:

1) It will sync perfectly to the output - there will be no ghosting what so ever related to lag on the DLP - no need for ANY ghost removing circuit. Accurate to 1/30th of a frame at 60Hz. Propagation delays through the emitter shouldn't add much to that.

2) STEREO3D WILL NOW WORK ON VIRTUALLY ALL DLP PROJECTORS. Even ones which do not sync (provided they do not tear i.e. they only lose sync as a complete frame which is the vast majority of them).

3) The iZ3D shutter driver can now be used to its full potential without fear of dropped frames at sub 60fps where you would get inverted parallax as even when this happens, the glasses will still be perfectly sync'd. You might notice a flash lasting about 1/60th of a second while the glasses correct themselves at the point of parallax inversion.

4) And of course, it will work over any connection you throw at it: DVI, HDMI, Displayport, Composite, SVideo, Component RGB / Yepper etc :D




What a beautifully perfect, simple, and cheap solution, even if I do say so myself. The +5v can be obtained from the dongle or any usb / ps2 port. The sensor will be mounted with double sided tape / blue tack / or a stand - as long as it gets to see the last line of pixels that are being projected.

Time to put this to the test. I shall keep everyone posted, if you'll pardon the pun. If it works well, and there is no foreseeable reason why it should not, then I shall make one of my guides :shutter

Perhaps then we can request iZ3D to display a small square in one of the bottom corners which would blink a colour for one eye and black for the other where the photodiode can be positioned easily.

And of course, Kudos goes to mainly iZ3d for their amazing driver. And a fellah chrisjarram(sp?) who relentlessly begged iZ3D for the blue line code feature for all our benefit. Thanks Guys, we love you!

-- Shahzad.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Borg_Rootan »

RAGEdemon wrote:I have already built a device which would take vsync in directly and from it allow you to change the phase of the incoming signal and output the square wave. silly me thinking digital interface would have a vsync line too
Isn't there any space on the line between frames transmiting what can be detected with monostable circuit? Then you would catch start/end of frame transmiting and use something for delay to real frame screening. :idea: :?:
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

I'm not too familiar with the TMDS protocol, but it does say that the data is transmitted in islands between hsync and vsync time intervals. The problem is that all the data is transmitted over the same line, and there is a lot of data. It would be practically impossible to count each bit as it goes by till you get to the point in the packet you are looking for, or even count the dead space of the signal as it goes by with anything simple such as a counter. You would really need a dvi to vga scaler and then sample from that or a microcontroller with a lot of programming after capture and analysis of the signal.

I really wanted something simple that perhaps we could all use :(
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by AWoods »

RAGEdemon wrote:Does anyone know how I might be able to make shutter glasses work with pure DVI devices such as projectors?
What projector are you talking about?
If your projector has a DVI-I connector (the last "I" stands for integrated - meaning that both analog and digital signals are accepted through this connector) it may be possible to connect your PC to your projector as follows to extract the sync signal:
PC -> DVI-VGA adapter, VGA cable, VGA shutter glasses dongle, VGA-DVI adapter -> projector
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

An astute observation AWoods, and one which I have tried :)

I did not want to complicate matters further by laying out the reasons why I cannot use the VGA port even though my projector has a deadicated 15pin.

You see, as in my other thread, I was trying to make my non compatible stereo projector into a compatible one through fine control of a combination of settings in the nvidia "custom resolution" advanced controls. I was successful.

Over the digital link - All HDMI, M1, and DVI, the picture is perfectly synced (it took me 3 whole nights to arrive at these settings but arrive at them i did :P).

But at the settings that are required for VGA to work, a quarter of the screen is missing, and there is heavy interference as the signal is skewed - un-playable, but for the sake of syncing, i had to find that setting - if only to prove that it could be done.

So you see, I have to get this working over DVI, or else the sufferage (is that even a word?) of oh so much tedius tweaking and effort would have been in vain :roll:

I swear, yesterday I dreamt about a synced screen almost the entire sleep.

I do have the iZ3D monitor which I love to bits but for FPS gaming, projector is hard to beat - I have first hand experience with active projection setups with the old nVidia driver :)

If I can have a working solution, I can write another guide on how to adjust non-compat projectors into compat ones :P

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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by AWoods »

RAGEdemon wrote:Over the digital link - All HDMI, M1, and DVI, the picture is perfectly synced
Perhaps a silly question, but how do you know that the picture is perfectly synced if you aren't able to extract the sync signal...?

I suspect what you're trying to do it match the output frequency of the video card to match the native frequency of the projector. This might work for a time, but without some feedback mechanism, the card and projector will eventually get out of sync and flip eyes. You might be able to stretch this out to minutes, perhaps, but eventually it will flip.

In any case, I am not aware of a product or circuit for extracting the sync signal from the DVI connection. If you do find such a thing, please let me know. ;-)
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

I have found, over long nights of experimentations, exact frequencies which make the image 100% stable. I have tested with ED glasses on the other port with as close to refresh sync as I could - there was no flipping. Furthermore, the tear had completely stopped dead. Resyncing with the resync button the projector made the tear appear out of bounds of the screen hence I can say that the projector is now 100% sync'd to my card.

I can not extract the VSync signal at this point between the communication lines, but with the help of iZ3D's blue line code and a very simple external circuit, i can make my own sync signal directly by observing what is happening on the projected image itself.

As i'm getting sync from the projected image itself, as long as the projector is in sync or even not, as long as there is no tearig where the parallax inversion happens over minutes or even about 10 seconds but instantly instead of a tear going up or down a screen, the glasses will remain in sync as the sync signal is coming directly from the screen itself.

The blue line code makes sure that there is no parallax inversion even when the images are flipped and i make use of that feature... like i said, there might be a small flash when this happens as one will have to flicker twice while the other will have to remain open for 2 frames consecutively.

The optosensors will arrive Tuesday. I can say how well it works (or not) at that time. It can even feed directly into the nvia 3d vision glasses on the port intended to be connected to DLP checkboard projectors to make them work in windows XP etc.

Wish me luck! :)
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Okta »

Awesome man. Good luck with this.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by 3dbruce »

Hi,

sorry if I miss the point here (I just stumbled across this thread by accident ...) but wouldn't it be sufficient to built a DVI passthrough adapter that uses the DDC signal for the shutterglasses? I did that to support ELSA and E-Dim Glasses together with a BenQ MP721 DLP projector and it works fine via DVI alone. You can find some details in the following thread:

http://www.stereo3d.com/discus/messages ... 1226349176#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

Hi 3dbruce,

Interesting thread you point to but I did that years ago and posted how to do it on the old stereovision boards. My version was simpler though - i just sliced the cable plastic covering and spliced the DDC pin, and got power from the +5/0v USB ports. It's a shame that people have to rediscover what has already been done and documented in before - this info and a LOT of other useful information went down with the stereovision boards.

The problem is that the iZ3D driver will not generate the square wave on the DDC line - it is nvidia low level programming specific and they won't tell anyone how it is to be done. So this signal has to be obtained elsewhere.

Saying that though, I do not know if the 3D vision driver has this waveform present on the DDC line and what it would be used for as their glasses work through USB. I think someone noted that there is a DDC signal present in CRT mode, but again, this is windows Vista/Win7. Although I do have win7 dual boot, i do all my gaming in WinXP for convenience of compatibility as things currently stand.

Thanks for the information though :)
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

SUCCESS! :woot

Everything works beautifully... will have to fashion a proper stand for the sensor though :shutter

-- Shahzad.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by cybereality »

RAGEdemon wrote:SUCCESS! :woot

Everything works beautifully... will have to fashion a proper stand for the sensor though :shutter

-- Shahzad.
Great news man.

Do you have any clue as to which projectors this would work on? Theoretically any DLP projector?
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

Hi cybereality,

In theory, it should work for all projectors... as I said, mine was one of the worst, if not the worst offender of them all.

If the projector flips the image instantly which is most of them then it will work great.

If, on the other hand, the picture tears then this tearing will have to be fixed first... more info, as you know, in my other thread relating to this.

In vista/Win7, although the latest drivers will allow advanced timing, there is a bug. When you adjust the back porch settings, the entire refresh rate changes drastically when saved i.e. from 60 to 63Hz making win7/Vista a no-go at the moment. Powerstrip works in Win7 but does not have small enough changeable increments that can be then saved.

I hope that helps. I wish I had more projectors and the time to test with. I guess we just have to try and find out.

-- Shahzad.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Okta »

Well done rage. You could make a how to in the DIY section and get it stickied that would be great.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Likay »

Nicely done! :D
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by RAGEdemon »

Thank you for your kind words guys.

I'm trying to find a 2.5mm jack to see if puting this signal on the DLP port will solve the 60Hz issue with the 3Dvision glasses. Will write the requested guide as soon as I have complete info.

-- Shahzad.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by Okta »

Any updates on your marked shutter sensor?
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NarcoticV
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by NarcoticV »

Hi everyone,

Sorry for digging this thread up again, but I feel it is still useful for people with 85Hz non-3d-compatible DLP beamers (like me)...

As a bit of extra info about the IZ3D driver: version 1.10 of the driver allows the user to mark any pixel any color dependent on which eye it is meant for. It is done by choosing one of the shutter modes (forgot which one) and choosing "marked shutter" mode. The marking can be edited in a file stored somewhere called "markingspec.xml".

This feature allows us to make a small square alternating between black and white for example, which would be easier for positioning the sensor. The feature was removed since version 1.10 however, so you have to use that version instead of the latest one. I heard the feature might return in a future version.

I just ordered my own photodiode and am planning to duplicate your results! It's a shame there aren't more details yet, but I will experiment a bit for myself. If I am successful as well I will post a full circuit diagram.

Not sure whether you are still on this forum Shahzad, but if you are I would like to ask a few questions... I read on another thread in this forum that using the blue line code, you had to reduce the sensor signal to half frequency to get the right sync signal. Why is this? shouldn't the signal from the sensor, possibly cleaned up a bit and inverted for the other eye, be at the right frequency already? Also, what voltage are you using to drive the shutter glasses?

If this works on my projector, I might try to implement it on my Samsung 2233RZ 120Hz LCD as well! Not sure if that would even work, but I have a feeling it might...

Fingers crossed :shutter

--EDIT--:

While I'm waiting on my shutter glasses and photodiode, I would like to think ahead about possibly implementing this on my 120Hz LCD. I don't know how LCD's refresh exactly, but it seems important for this project. I'm guessing it is not possible for the LCD to refresh all pixels at the same time. Is there a certain refresh order (like left to right, top to bottom)? If a black/white alternating square was shown in the corner of an LCD to create a sync signal, it is important to know the state of the rest of the panel at the moment the pixels in the corner change color.

Firstly, there would have to be some compensation for the response time of the monitor, which in my case is 3ms black-white. Like with 3d vision, the circuit would need to limit the time the shutters are open, in order to reduce ghosting.

Any thoughts on this?
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cybereality
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by cybereality »

The marked shutter mode is back on 1.13RC drivers. Its called IZ3D Shutter now.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by NarcoticV »

cybereality wrote:The marked shutter mode is back on 1.13RC drivers. Its called IZ3D Shutter now.
Are you sure about this? To refer to my own thread on IZ3D forums regarding this topic: link

Here I asked for the marked shutter mode to return. An IZ3D representative answered stating that the "IZ3D shutter" mode does indeed show a small white/black alternating set of pixels in the corner ("undocumented functionality"), but he doesn't seem to state that it is possible to choose these pixels.

He also said that the marked shutter mode might return in 1.14, so I don't think it is included in 1.13 already. Unless there is a file somewhere to be edited that controls the marking in "IZ3D shutter" mode?
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by NarcoticV »

I am becoming very positive about the prospect of using Shahzad's idea for my 120Hz LCD! :| :) :D :lol: :mrgreen: :woot

Please excuse the rambling to follow, I hope it is not an automatic TL:DNR :lol:

I received some components today, and started experimenting a bit. I will post some results - any comments are welcome! One of the things I received was the Schmitt-triggered photodetector that Shahzad referenced:
RAGEdemon wrote:
After considering a wide array of possibilities, many of them requiring expensive and complex hardware, with the help of you guys, the "silly" idea I had earlier is starting to make more and more sense...

The blue line code provided by the iZ3D driver is perfect. It provides a blue line over the last line or so of pixels at the bottom of the screen. The second half towards the right of the blue line will flicker to one eye perfectly.

All that needs done is to use one of these:

http://uk.farnell.com/honeywell-s-c/sdp ... dp/1201208" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheap. Simply, it is a light detector which will give a sharp square wave when put in front if this blue line to the right. The output from this will be 5v 50% duty cycle perfect square wave which can feed directly into the middle pin of the ELSA/ED wireless emitter. It can also drive the current drivers for wired glasses with a small modification, and pretty much anything that worked with the old nVidia driver.
I soon discovered that using the aforementioned photodetector was never going to work with an LCD. The built-in Schmitt trigger only flips on the detector when lots of light is detected (in my case, even the TL lighting of my room wasn't enough - I had to point a flashlight directly into it to trigger it). For a projector it probably works - after all, that's a whole bunch of light.

A different solution was needed for the LCD. I had a standard phototransistor (type bpw40) lying around. When a resistor is placed in series with these and the voltage over the resistor is measured, the output is dependent on the amount of light collected by the phototransistor. Higher resistance leads to higher sensitivity of the output to light.

When using a 100kOhm resistor and 5V power supply and taping the detector to my monitor, and then displaying white pixels to it, my oscilloscope showed a waveform that resembled a triangle wave at ~180Hz. With black pixels, the voltage was close to zero. The 180Hz wave probably has something to do with the inner workings of the monitor, so different models may lead to very different findings. This wave was about 2V in amplitude. I don't have a picture of it, but it definitely shows in the pictures that I do have.

I took a few pictures during the tests, which are in the attached zip. It's bunch of images from my oscilloscope. I will refer to them in the rest of the story. Also attached seperately is the end resulting square wave, for people who are not interested in the proceedings but just want to see whether it works 8-)

I then proceeded to use the 1.10 IZ3D drivers in Marked Shutter Mode. I made the shutter mode display an alternating black/white square in the top left corner of my monitor, where the phototransistor is located, using MarkingSpec.xml. Then I started Flatout 2 in 60Hz mode. The result can be seen in "60Hz_100kOhm.jpg". You can see the general shape of a square wave. This is due to the square changing color at 60Hz (measured to check this frequency). Superimposed on the square wave, you see the triangle wave I mentioned earlier - at about 180Hz. However, because the triangle frequency is not an exact multiple of the 60Hz wave, they constantly shift relatively to each other.

This can be seen more clearly when I increased the Flatout 2 refresh to 120Hz. The shifting of the square and triangle waves with respect to each other creates a sort of "bubbling" effect, as can be seen in 120Hz_100kOhm.3gp.

The next step was to turn this signal into a clean square wave for syncing to. First, I further increased the resistor in series with the phototransistor from 100kOhm to 820kOhm. This increased the sensor's sensitivity to light, making the triangle wave clip mostly to 5V and generally making the output look more like a square wave. The "bubbling effect" remained though, it could still be seen in the varying width of the square.
I then used an opamp as a comparator - with a fixed voltage, adjustable by a potentiometer, as reference signal. This turned the photodiode output into a clean square wave (120Hz_820kOhm_Comparator.jpg). Due to the same "bubbling effect", the duty cycle of the square wave varies slightly in a periodic manner, as seen in 120Hz_820kOhm.3gp.

At this point, I was really positive about the results - I could get a clean square wave perfectly synced to my monitor! However, "stereo mode" was still actually disabled in-game in Flatout 2. As soon as I turned it on, the software seemed to struggle to refresh fast enough, resulting in the same frame sometimes being displayed twice. This can be seen where the square wave is locally broader in 120Hz_820kOhm_HighSettings.jpg. Interestingly, only the frames for one eye (output "high") seem to be stuck sometimes. Anyway, once I lowered all graphics settings in Flatout 2, there were never double frames even in stereo mode.

In conclusion, I think that this method is highly likely to work on my Samsung 2233RZ, and maybe other 3d-capable 120Hz monitors as well! Also, this method would be considerably cheaper for Nvidea users considering 3D Vision - the electronics have cost me about 15 euros so far, and I have ordered some cheap chinese shutter glasses for 10 euros a piece (even though I had to buy 4 at once). It would especially cheap for people who still have old "random brand" shutterglasses still lying around.

Any thoughts? :shutter
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by NarcoticV »

Today, I managed to find me some old Asus VR100 shutterglasses with a 3.5mm jack... And I have had (moderate) success! :woot

The sync signal from the previous post was amplified to 12V and inverted for the other eye - no further processing yet. Still using the 1.10 drivers, the 3D effect was clearly visible! Of course, there was no eye switching problem because of the light sensor method, and furthermore I didn't notice any flickering at 120Hz. There is still quite some ghosting though.

I have never used any other shutter system before and don't know if this is "bad" ghosting, but it's there. As i stated before, the signal was only inverted to the other eye and no other processing was done. I heard that Nvidia incorporates a "ghosting margin", only opening the shutter glasses about 60% of the total frame time. This would compensate for the pixel response time of the monitor and thus reduce ghosting. I am going to implement something similar and see if that works.

I am pretty sure there will always be some ghosting though - even with a constant 12V on the glasses, the LCD's aren't quite as opaque as I had expected.

All in all - I never thought I could get 3D to work on my setup over DVI-D, costing only 20 euros and some time! :lol:

Thanks again to Shahzad for the idea - I will report back and eventually upload my schematics.
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Re: Stereo3D on DVI? Help me make it so!

Post by tritosine5G »

"ghosting margin", only opening the shutter glasses about 60% of the total frame time.
well, I'd say, It isnt even fully opened, there is no sustain phase at all. Theres a relatively fast attack phase and decaying immidietly.

Good project IMO would be differentiating a LED DLP projector from other commercial PJ's by means of new firmware.
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