Hello everyone!

This is MTBS' latest stereoscopic 3D guide:

http://www.mtbs3d.com/cgi-bin/newslette ... _id=89#DDD

If you own a Fuji W1 Finepix Real 3D Camera, I'm sure you will agree that it is a bit of a challenge to use their proprietary .MPO format and share your photos. In particular, the files are huge and not all the S-3D display makers support it. Also, while it isn't the camera's fault, pictures taken can be uncomfortably out of alignment.

Check the guide out, and see what you think!

Regards,
Neil

Hello Neil,

I have some suggestions to this guide:



Since 4:3 monitors are rare today I would go for a 16:9 or 16:10 - there are many LCD displays and also projectors which use 16:10 format so I would suggest to resize to 1920*1200 but I would do this in a second step after setting the correct window and eventually crop the image so in the first step I would realign the images without resizing and saving in TIF format (to avoid quality loss) then manually check the stereo window and set it correct and do some cropping (already in 16:10) (save again as TIF) and then in a second conversion step I would do only resizing to 1920*1200 (saving to JPG


I would not do this since I have seen MPOs with about 2 deg perspective rotation - so please let SPM do all allignments if necessary

greetings
Werner

Hi Werner,

The reason I suggest 4:3 resolution is because the Fuji only captures 4:3 pictures. Unless I'm mistaken, if we chose different proportions, the image would appear stretched.

Can you elaborate more on your second point? I don't understand. The StereoPhoto Maker instructions recommend this setting for best results - but I may be misunderstanding you meaning.

Regards,
Neil

thats why I wrote that you shoud do some croping in 16:10 - I use a Zalman 24" here and it has 1920*1200 (ok in 3D only 1920*600) - I like if te diplay does not show black borders.


Are you sure the instructions did recommend this? well I must say I did not read the most recent instructions since I know all features of SPM (I did the German translation of SPM). Now as far as I know the instruction recommend to use this setting if you do not need perspective rotation - this way auto alignment is much faster

Well you should always let SPM correct all errors - as you can even see in your example (in the anaglyph version) you still have misalignment in the left upper corner - this is due to perspective rotation errors of your original files.

greetings
Werner

Where did you get a 24" Zalman?