Hopefully once I have my new screen, Im getting back to this topic with something like this:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8247958

Couple of more that could be added:

1.) Stewart Disney Black rear projection material - I've got a few of these, really one of my favorites. Really needs a frame as it is a stretchy rubber material. Don't know what the SOP is for a review here?

2.) Draper Silver Lenticular front projection - Long out of production, but I have quite a bit. Been selling rolled fabric through VRtifacts and Ebay for sometime. Works best with linear polarized systems, good extinction, rolls OK, clean with soapy water. The lenticular grooves are slightly visible close up. Brief summary: only 72" wide, but any length, good visual results with linear polarization, inexpensive, samples available. Draper used this material to make their portable 3D roll-up screens. </End_Advert>


Stewart Disney Black rear projected with circular polarization

I just thought of a very cheap source for aluminized fabric. Jo-Ann's Fabrics [a chain of fabric and craft stores in the U.S.] sells aluminized cotton fabric, which is normally used as ironing board covers. It costs $7 per yard for 44" wide fabric.

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/prod ... D=prd10219

I do not have a projector, and have never tried this material as a projection surface. One problem you may have is removing wrinkles. I don't know if ironing will work.

Joe Dunfee

Thats a lottery. I bought a thin MDF wooden sheet with one side prepainted with white matte. Tried it for fun, and its so defocused / bad / compared to the blackout cloth I bought from USA , I threw it out of sight immidietly.

Rhttp://readalert.atw.hu/THE_ULTRA_HIGH_GAIN_SCREEN.pdf <~ im goin to give this a try.

I've sent an email to Peroni Head office in Italy to ask prices on Monday and haven't recieved an answer yet. How long did it take when you contacted them ?

I just got my Peroni screen yesterday, and it's not that good.. well for the price(10.50€+20%tax per linear meter, 210cm wide) it's great but i get around 20% ghosting on circular AND linear.

the problem is that behind the silver layer, there's just the white base material, so some 20% of the light shines through the silver and reflects off the white base, and thus becomes depolarized. It's "okay" for watching 3d content, but certainly not good.

I've actually sent them an email about this earlier today, asking them(well, i sort of just told them that it's better) to change their manufacturing process to insert a black "blackout layer" between the white and the silver, but i'm not sure they'll care. When i asked them BEFORE my order they said that it's not possible to change the manufacturing process, even though they ARE making the stuff in their own factory.


maybe if we all sent out emails asking about this, they'd change their product line and we'd all get great screens for cheap

Too bad to hear. It's impossible to change afterwards by trying to paint the screen black on the backside. It just won't work.
The common misperception that white primer is best with all screens including nondepolarizing screens is very unfortunate. Every ounce of light that manages through the aluminiumcoating needs to be absorbed totally because if reflected off the white primer it'll loose the polarization thus inducing ghosting... Simple as that. I had quite some arguments about it but even if i prove it by painting a white and a black paper with alupaint and compare polarizationproperties this misunderstanding still persists for some...

yeah, that's why i'm trying to get them to change the process

well, you probably won't notice at all during 3d movies, but playing Portal(VERY high contrasts and blacks on white) you'll see it. But 2x2d(like playing split-screen multiplayer, but on the SAME screen) is just impossible.



BTW: i was looking for a ghosting test image that would make it easy to read out accurate values, but i couldn't find it so i made one instead. It has marked grayscales for white-on-black and black-on-white ghosting, and unmarked visual-only gradients for red/green/blue ghosting.

Sorry for the double post, but i just want to say that i've gotten used to the Peroni screen, and now i think i may have exaggerated my previous statements It's very cheap and totally does the job for 3d projection. Ghosting levels aren't top-notch, but there are only a few scenes in every movie where you'll actually notice. That's basically only when there are very bright into-screen or out-of-screen objects on a dark backdrop.

I've measured my total extinction ratio to be at about 1:20 to 1:30 on circular filters, but this is using two completely different projectors so there's a huge margin for error. It is the same for left/right eyes though so it seems pretty accurate to me.


The peroni's also better for 2d viewing(higher contrast) than my pure matte white 1.0 gain rollable projector screen, so that's always something. It's pretty dark though, seems to have only about 1.0 gain as the image looks just as bright as on the white one(tested by pulling the rollable down halfway over the peroni).

I'll probably get some other silver screen some day, but for now i'm OK with this one.

you can also use a spinning wheel and 2x projectors + shutter and glass beaded fp or RP screen, that's really good 2d screen too with 3x gain.

Im too somewhat tired of silver for 2d now. Games on 2d would be somewhat *gah*