With this setup, the horizontal resolution with be 1/2 ? LCD 1920x1200 will become 960x1200 ?
If i need to make the convert program, i will look like that picture ?

You can use the Stereoscopic Player in column interlaced mode, or also the IZ3D driver to play games (vertical interlaced).

Thanks but as I've said, im trying to make it for phone
Will try and report later

Well the best thing to do would be do make some pictures using Photoshop (or GIMP) using layer masks with the interlaced pattern. That way you can at least start testing the parallax barrier right away. The images need to be the exact pixel dimensions of the phone, but you cannot be certain the photo app will not apply some sort of smoothing (that will ruin the effect). If you are developing your own program, you can get it to display an image pretty easy I guess. What platform is it you are targeting (iPhone, Android, etc.)?

I think that 4*16px + 2*15px will be too small. How tweak that?

Well try it and find out.

I'm quite interested in this method on a bit of a grand scale - 42inch to be exact.

I also thought perhaps anyone who has tried this can contribute their calculations and we can start building a DB - we could then write a simple program to generate a printable image for a given combination and make this easy for the masses

The problem with large sized screens (ie 42") is that there is usually a fixed distance from the monitor you need to be. This distance can vary, but is around 10-14", which can be too close for a big screen. But maybe with some ingenuity it could be done.

Ah I see - I'll probably only do this with my PC monitor then - perhaps lenticular may be something to investigate for my TV.

Cyber, have you given any more thought to trying your barrier method on a 5-7 inch display for a HMD? If it works it would out perform the PR4 by magnitudes. Can you get your barrier setup and test with a fresnal lens or even 2 in layers to see how it effects the view distance? If the Fresnel allow closer viewing distance without braking the 3d view it should be a go.
Then you could make a sheet for a cheap ebay 7 inch 800x480, if it works you could use a higher res screen like in Palmers PR4.
Cheers.

Thats an interesting idea Okta. I certainly would like to do some tests.

I'm developing an online program to automatically generate a parallax barrier pattern based on your monitor's settings. It saves the trouble of trial and error on getting the lines just right. The good news is that it works MARVELOUSLY (with averaging accuracy down to 1/100kth of a pixel). The bad news is that I can't get a 3D effect. I was wondering how I could get permission to view the attachments in this thread to help me align the barrier. I can see the individual pixels in my screen, and I can see that they line up perfectly (where the eye can't tell) with the individual pixels, but the 3D effect is eluding me.

One thing that may be causing me trouble is that my printer is out of ink, so some lines are blue or pinkish... Could that affect my results?


EDIT: I'm wrong. It DOES work, just not very well. The Parallax Barrier is excellent, but the color of the ink MUST be as black as possible, or the pixels bleed right through the barrier, and that's why my 3D effect is so poorly noticeable. I will finish up the auto PB program and share it here.

You should be able to see attachments as long as you have an account and are signed in.

In terms of the barrier, yeah, you need black ink. I would also go into the printer properties and make sure only black ink is selected and you use the highest quality with no ink-saver modes (gets the blackest lines). Please take some images of your setup or share the program you made. Thanks.

Any word on that Parallax Calculator program inveni0?

I understand everything about the process except how to make the Barriers.
I have Photoshop CS5 ,but have yet to find any easy to understand instructions to use with it.
If anyone can point in the direction of a really good tutorial that would be amazing.

Also...why is there so much "trial and error" involved? I'm planning on printing out my sheets at Kinko's. Should I just wait for this calculator program to avoid having to make more than one trip?

Yes, the program seems to work fine, but I have to fix my printer before I can verify that it is as accurate as possible. It should save all of this trial and error, as long as you have the required specs of the screen you're using. But it doesn't generate the entire image... It only generates the pattern. So you'll still have to take care of setting up the document. You just don't have to set up the lines yourself.

I haven't forgotten about it, I just want to make sure that I have it optimized (which I should have finished in the next few days).

Thanks for the reply inveni0.
Is they're anyone out there that can maybe walk me through how to make a barrier in Photoshop CS5?

There can't really be another solution than trial and error. To print a parallax barrier that is an exact fit for your screen given a specific viewing distance you need to know the exact thickness of the glass and its refractive index. But the only value that is available from the manufacturers is the dot pitch (and often incorrectly even), the other values are never advertised.

Illustration :

Well I guess I'm buying some black ink then! Can someone please give me a nice photoshop breakdown....please!!!!

There is a tutorial here: viewtopic.php?p=55961#p55961

I know its a little confusing, but maybe you can make some sense of it. I hope to have an easier method at some point but I'm not sure when that will be ready.

Going to implement the ideas in 3d Editors it will give right answer why some time picture going be mixed


This Project of imaginary 3d world with parallax barriers how (left eye - right eye)

http://www.mediafire.com/?c284shpk8c3p9c7
just use http://www.anim8or.com/main/index.html " anima8tor" to open the file







Result :
1 ) all barriers were same width .
2 ) the closer barrier to each eye center position should be exact above the other image or pixel should be hidden
3) Creating The Barrier shifting method its the distance should each barrier shifted left or right from the
each eye center position which is 90 degree .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MA8a1gV3 ... e=youtu.be

Just i liked to share knowledge maybe i be wrong

thanx

ahmed Turki
United Arab Emirates

cheers

Very cool.

Great job here i wonder how to make a aligment picture for 1366 x 768 coz my monitor is an acer g195hqv and only supports this
this awesome calculator gives my correct monitor width and height
here

Hey twin78! Welcome to the forum.

Have you tried my tutorial already? I know its a little complicated, but its worth a shot.

Yeah Cyber reality i tried it you explain real good but its not enough to make an alignment picture written like left right for (oops not 1366 its 1360x768
Thank you for reply

i was able to do one like this: would it work?

Hello, I have 1366x768 res.(0.252mm dot pitch). I already made parallax barrier (5.95ppb, but with 12px) with 600dpi printer (i can't afford better right know) and there is very close 3D sense (there is depth, but ghosting when two images are more separated). My brother gave me some clue how to find right interpolation:

firstly i chose 9 lines with 12px and 1 with 10px. 12x9 + 10=118, and on the other side 5.95 x 2 x 10=119. These are not equel, so i must calculate more. And there is formula (x is unknown value here): 118 + 6x = 119 + 5.95x ; at the end x = 20 , so 118 + 120 = 119 + 119
After this, we get match: there must be 20 lines (118 and 119 is already 10 lines on each case, and plus 10 lines we get from the formula (because 20/2=10)), 19 for 12px and 1 for 10px) because with this calculation there is 238 on each side! Can 19 lines 12px and 1 line 10px fool photoshop to reduce 6 to 5.95ppb?

So is this right direction or big misunderstanding?

@twin78: That test image looks OK to me. You probably just need to work on the barrier further.

@ddadovic: If 9 x 12px + 1 x 10px is close, then just further adjust it. For example if you need a larger barrier then times the pattern by two and just ad one pixel. So that would be 18 x 12px + 1 x 10px + 1 x 11px. You can do the same thing but make it one pixel less. Hopefully that will help.

Thank you very much!
I totaly skipped some important details from previous pages!

Hey! I've been trying to replicate the Parallax Barrier tutorial but haven't met with much success after more than a month of tweaking. My screen's resolution is 1366 x 768 too, with a dot pitch of 0.2512mm. The required barrier width would be around 5.935 pixels. Using a 600 dpi printer, I tried a 6 px barrier followed by a 5px black - 7 px gap barrier. Crashed and burned both times...

Referring to the tips on messing with the odd barrier line here and there to average things out-- by my calculations, I could do 14 lines of 6 px with 1 line of 5px; totals to 89, which is close to 5.935 x 15 = 89.025. Or I'd need 29 lines of width 6px and 1 line of 4 px to get a total width of 178, close to 5.935 x 30 = 178.05 px

@Cyber: I noticed you said that when calculating the interpolation required, the total number of lines needs to be even. That's why I have the two options above. Why's that though?

@ddadovic: Have you had any luck with the interpolation method?

@saldy23: Well, after printing in local copy store I think I got series of 9 lines of 6px and 1 of 5px on my sheet literally, without fooling the printer to change 6px to 5.95px, probably because I saved file to PDF format (not printing directly from photoshop), and then go to print! When I put barrier sheet to screen, on every ten lines first and final are bolded or something like that, but looking closely everyone is same.

Now, I must wait to get new sheets (inkjet's, to get rid of copy store's depending)... Even like that, there is 3D depth but not without constantly shifting of sheet left-right to find perfect...

@saldy23: The pattern has to have an even number of lines or it won't tile correctly.

Thanks Cyber!

But I'm confused about what you said, Ddadovic. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the interpolation method meant to fool the human visual system and not Photoshop? I just thought it was more likely that our eyes would not be able to perceive the minute difference in line widths and resolve it as lines of some average width.

Either way, sounds like you're having way better luck than I am Please may I know what software you guys use to create the base image? I just use this naive method where I take a stereoscopic pair and interleave it column by column to get something like the image attached.

@saldy23: The point of the interpolation is to produce lines that are more precise than the printer resolution can handle. In order to print a barrier using whole pixel values and no interpolation you would need a printer that could do around 15,000 dpi or something crazy like that (which obviously isn't available). Although Photoshop and other programs can do the interpolation for you, I found the results were not as good as doing it manually. However its possible there is an easier method, I still have to test some things.

Also, that image looks OK for a test, though its probably better to use the black/white left/right image as has been posted. This is because that picture of yours is mostly blue (with very little red component) which means it will be difficult to test sub-pixel mis-alignments. But the format looks OK.

I did try your Alignment Test Image, but the closest I got was this...

So I just wanted to know if I would be able to achieve some sort of depth perception even with this sorta close barrier, but I'm not seeing anything with the test interleaved image I showed you in my last post. Was wondering if the base image wasn't good enough as well...

PS The vertical bands you see in the picture are not apparent when I'm viewing it normally, the lines are quite even. Must be my camera

Sorry, putting up a slightly better picture

Yeah, thats really far off. You need to adjust the pattern more, and it may not even be possible with your printer. Whats the DPI on that printer?

I've been using a 600 dpi library printer. I send the command with all the parameters set to achieve maximum quality but I guess the library systems override all this to print in Economy mode. I've tried scaling everything up 4 times to make thick barriers but that doesn't quite work out either. Guess I need to hunt for a better printer huh?

Pretty much. I had similar results with my old 600dpi printer (slightly better, but still).

Hi ppl,

i'm a newbie, sorry if i ask but i can't go forward, what you mean with:

"5) Select a 16px x 1px area on the left side of the image." ?

i don't have very much to select, i see only a small line in the middle.

Can someone explain me this point a bit easier?

Thx a lot

You may have to zoom in to select the area. Also, disable "snap to guides", "snap to edges" and all the snapping stuff. You should be able to select an area that is 16 pixels wide and 1 pixel high. Make sure the canvas you are working with is the correct dimensions. I used 32 pixels by 1 pixel in the example, but yours my be slightly different based on your screen. Hope that helps.

Thank you

i've solved the problem with zooming the image

again thank you.