Another DIY HMD, cheap build, 7" 1024x600, 5X Loupe lenses.

Post by **will1384** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:31 pm

Using PonyProg is very easy, thats why I like it, you can get it over here:

http://www.lancos.com/prog.html

I had a problem with the PonyProg v2.xx versions not running under 64bit Windows 7, so I used the older PonyProg v1.17h version, and it worked just fine.

The design for the chip programmer is over at:

http://www.riccibitti.com/quickdesigns.htm

its very similar to the EDID spoofer.

I start by plugging the chip into the chip programmer, then apply +5v power, then plug the chip programmer into the computer.

Next is starting PonyProg, this is the v1.17h version

The first time you run PonyProg it will tell you to setup the software.

Do the calibration.

Follow the directions.

That was simple.

Configure the settings now.

The settings I have used.

Your screen should look something like this.

Erase the chip.

Yep its working.

Now open your EDID file.

The Oculus Rift EDID show here.

Now write to the chip.

Click yes.

Wait for it to finish, takes a few seconds.

Thats it.

now exit out of PonyProg, unplug the chip programmer, disconnect the +5v power, and transfer the chip to the EDID spoofer.

Post by **will1384** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:24 am

huanter wrote:I soldered by a circuit diagram, but it does not work for me, why?
I also tried a USB-powered, but it does not work too.
I use ic is :at24c32a

I used a USB cable pin-out, not a socket pin-out, so I wonder if the ground and power are reversed, also have you checked with an Volt-Ohm meter, from what it looks like the wires are ?

White = +5v and Pin 8
Red = Pin 6
Brown = Pin 7
Black = Ground and Pin 1,2,3,4

If the chip fails to work the computer should not see any EDID for that LCD, and likely not see a monitor attached, what happens when its attached to a computer?

I also seem to remember years ago having trouble with PonyProg sometimes not writing to the chip, and I "think" it would even say that it did, but there would be nothing on the chip, so you might want to try using PonyProg and the chip programmer to read from the chip, and see if the chip has been programed.

Here is a PDF showing a 24C02 chip being used in a very similar way, thought it might help.

http://tec.icbuy.com/uploads/2010/8/10/ ... ptions.pdf

I had a little more time today to look it over, looks good as far as I can see,

I drew this up to check it out, the only thing I can think of is check the chip, check with an Volt-Ohm meter for shorts, double check how its attached to HDMI, good luck.

Post by **nah89** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:05 pm

How were you able to tell which cables in the HDMI cable accorded to the pinout?

Post by **will1384** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:24 pm

nah89 wrote:How were you able to tell which cables in the HDMI cable accorded to the pin?

You can cheat, buy two of the same cables, and cut one open to find out the wire colors, or buy one cable, cut the wires one at a time to find the wires you need, and re-attach the cut wires you won't use, I started with the wires on the outside, not the ones wrapped in foil, just cut one at a time, and find out were it goes, and write it down, and avoid anything that looks extra protected or foil wrapped, however the EDID Clock and EDID Data cables my be twisted together in a smaller foil wrapped wire pair.

Here is a page showing an image of the bundles of wires and single wires inside of the cable.

http://www.audioholics.com/audio-video- ... ench-tests

Sadly there is no HDMI color code standard, or at least none I could find, I wish there was, it would make stuff like this easier.

Post by **will1384** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 12:46 pm

huanter wrote:I re-checked the circuit, there is no problem, but the connection on my computer, or do not work

Resistance can be replaced by other resistance it? For example, 10K

I use this tool to program the chip：

I am not sure on the resistors, I had tried this

from

http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.p ... 0&start=30

but it did not work.

I had also tried 4.7k resistors like this page:

http://www.embedds.com/programming-avr-i2c-interface/

and

http://www.electroons.com/blog/2013/01/hello-world/

but it also failed to work for me, you might have better luck than me with the different resistors, I just stuck with the 47k resistors that had worked for me in the past with EDID spoofing.

Here are some forum posts that are saying you should use 1.5k up to 10k resistors:

http://www.edaboard.com/thread305988.html

It seems to say that around 1.5k to 2k is better, I may try that in a few day just to see what it does.

I also found a PDF that says "(typical 10 kΩ for 100 kHz, 2 kΩ for 400 kHz and 1 MHz)"

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/D ... 21930C.pdf

so the resistors may need to be a set value for the speed of the data.

I am no expert with electronics, but I can Google search and learn form it, and have fun experimenting

Post by **will1384** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 1:54 pm

I found another PDF showing the use of 47k resistors with an 24LC21 chip when used as a EDID

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/A ... /00610.pdf

It looks likely that 47k resistors are needed with the EDID spoofer.

Post by **will1384** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 6:47 pm

My dad was getting rid of an old treadmill and I striped it down for usable parts, I found a large piece of what I believe to be thermoform plastic, the kind of plastic used in vacuum forming, the plastic was very thin and light, it was about 2 x 2 foot in size,

I had been thinking about something to protect the controller and LVDS cable, so I decided to try this.

I used one of the 3D printed parts as a template, and cut a 9-1/4 x 6-5/8 piece of plastic, that leaves about 1 inch border around the 3D printed part.

I measured 1 inch from the edges, and made some lines.

I cut the corners

I don't have a vacuum forming setup, but I do have a torch, and lots of scrap wood and metal to get the shape from, I clamped something like wood or metal on the line that I drew, then heated from behind that line until the plastic went a little limp, and pressed the plastic flat against the wood or metal that I used, took a few times to get the process correct.

It fits, after some reshaping.

Here it is installed.

Side View.

Front view.

Top view, I also used a HDMI swivel in hopes it might take some stress of off the HDMI socket thats mounted on the LCD control board.

I weighed the DIY HMD before and after with a digital food scale:

Before the LCD controller cover it was 1:08.6 lb:oz
After the LCD controller cover it was 1:10.1 lb:oz

I wonder if foam core board would have been lighter?

Post by **will1384** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 6:54 pm

huanter wrote:will1384，
I tried to modify the EDID, but without success, can you help me to modify it? Thank you.

I will have a look at it later when I have more time, what happening or not working, is the file in the ZIP unmodified, is it the original EDID from the LCD you are trying to use ?

Post by **will1384** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 8:32 pm

Your EDID was a little different, but the important thing is to keep the "Vendor and Product ID", Block 2 - Display Product Name, and "Block 3 - Display Product Serial Number" from the Oculus Rift EDID.

Give this a try and see if it works.

Post by **will1384** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 10:45 pm

huanter wrote:
will1384 wrote:Your EDID was a little different, but the important thing is to keep the "Vendor and Product ID", Block 2 - Display Product Name, and "Block 3 - Display Product Serial Number" from the Oculus Rift EDID.

Give this a try and see if it works.

I tried your modified EDID file, it still does not work, the operating system show "General Non-Plug and Play Monitor"

I use IPS LCD screen is :HSD070PWW1

If you disconnect the LCD from the EDID spoofer, but leave the EDID spoofer attached to the computer, does the computer still think the LCD is attached ?

With my EDID spoofer, I can disconnect the LCD from the EDID spoofer, and the computer still believes the LCD is attached because the computer still sees the EDID information from the chip in the EDID spoofer.

I looked at your LCD over at

http://www.panelook.com/HSD070PWW1-B01_ ... 17007.html

not much difference from my LCD or the real Rift LCD, have you tried a real Rift EDID, or one of the ones I posted, here is the one I am using now, even if the LCD does not work the computer should still believe it sees an Oculus Rift .

Post by **will1384** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:07 pm

The only thing I can think of is for you to try one of my EDID files, I will try the EDID file I made up for you, on my own EDID spoofer, and see what it does tomorrow, good luck.

Post by **will1384** » Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:12 pm

huanter wrote:
will1384 wrote:Your EDID was a little different, but the important thing is to keep the "Vendor and Product ID", Block 2 - Display Product Name, and "Block 3 - Display Product Serial Number" from the Oculus Rift EDID.

Give this a try and see if it works.

I tried your modified EDID file, it still does not work, the operating system show "General Non-Plug and Play Monitor"

I use IPS LCD screen is :HSD070PWW1

I tried the modified EDID file I made for you on my EDID spoofer and DIY HMD, and it worked, I did have a strange thing happen to my desktop monitor, I use a KVM switch on my desktop monitor, and my desktop monitor kept shutting off and turning back on until I switched the KVM switch between computers, then the desktop monitor started working normally again, this only happened after I tried the modified EDID file I made for you, it only happened one time, kinda strange.

The modified EDID file I made for you worked on my EDID spoofer, and on my DIY HMD, I was able to play the demos, I think that means you should be able to use the real Rift EDID file.

I also wonder if you need to restart your computer after you try a different EDID file.

Another thing I noticed is that the version of PonyProg I use, v1.17h, is not correctly erasing the chip, but it is correctly writing to the chip.

Post by **will1384** » Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:31 pm

huanter wrote:Well, I really can not, I again bought a set of IPS LCD N070ICG-LD1 and a drive plate.
This can be directly programmed with vol28.BIN?

I thought you said you were trying to use a HSD070PWW1 LCD?

What is a "drive plate", I believe what you are calling a "drive plate" I call a "LCD controller" is that correct ?

They do have EDID programmers for a lot of the LCD controllers, just make sure that the programmer is compatible with your LCD controller before you buy it, here are some examples.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parallel-Progra ... 0932560213

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-USB-Programme ... 1405839696

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parallel-Port-P ... 0583856212

or do it your self, like this:

http://yetifrisstlama.blogspot.fr/2014/ ... -edid.html

or this

https://translate.google.com/translate? ... Ft%3D20565

If you could find a way to reprogram the EDID thats in the LCD controller, I "believe" the Oculus Rift EDID should work, if thats what you are asking.

Post by **will1384** » Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:55 pm

huanter wrote:Today I received my re-buy the driver board and LCD screen, like you buy the same, but even on a computer display as "generic non-Plug and Play Monitor"

Again to help me modify it?

I am not sure exactly what you are trying to say, but what I think you are saying is that you bought the same LCD screen and controller as me, but the EDID spoofer fails to work with it, is that correct ?

The "EDID spoofer" programmed with the "Oculus Rift EDID" should work with that LCD screen and controller, if not, check your "EDID spoofer" connection to the computer, and check to make sure the chip you are using has been programed correctly.

The "EDID spoofer" might be working, but Windows may not be displaying the Oculus Rift information correctly, try a computer system information gathering program like:

This is the program HWiNFO, showing the Oculus Rift EDID information,

HWiNFO can be downloaded from:
http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

or

This is the program "Monitor Asset Manager" showing the Oculus Rift EDID information,

"Monitor Asset Manager" can be downloaded from:
http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm

I also wonder if it's an HDMI problem, that does not affect DVI, maybe the computer reads EDID over HDMI differently, have you tried a HDMI Female to DVI-D Male Video Adapter yet, something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plate ... B0035B4LJM

Update

I found another circuit diagram that might help

http://www.harbaum.org/till/dvi2par/index.shtml

They show an 100 ohm resistor between HDMI Pin-19 Hot Plug Detect and HDMI Pin-18 +5v, maybe the computer needs Hot Plug Detect with HDMI?

Update

I looked at the EDID file you posted, and my LCD controller has the same EDID, so just use the Oculus Rift EDID in the EDID spoofer, and it should work for you.

Post by **nah89** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:50 pm

What voltage power supply did you use for the screen? Also did you use a computer's serial port or a serial to USB one?

Post by **will1384** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:52 pm

nah89 wrote:What voltage power supply did you use for the screen? Also did you use a computer's serial port or a serial to USB one?

I am using 12v to power the screen, I used the computers 9 pin serial port, have not tried serial to USB yet.

Post by **nah89** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:55 pm

Just make sure you are talking about the 1280x800 screen? This?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOY ... UTF8&psc=1

Post by **will1384** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:16 pm

nah89 wrote:Just make sure you are talking about the 1280x800 screen?

Both the 1280x800 LCD and Controller, and 1024x600 LCD and Controller, can use 12v.

Do a Google search for "VS-TY2662-V1" or "2av-1vga-1hdmi-ttl-50pin-lvds-acc" or "PCB800099" for more info about the LCD controller that came with the 1280x800 LCD.

Post by **nah89** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 3:01 pm

How exactly did you check in the cable what wire corresponded to the pin? For the EDID Spoofer. Also when you got the screen, before spoofing the EDID on it, did it work at all? Like did it work as a normal display?

Post by **will1384** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:42 pm

nah89 wrote:How exactly did you check in the cable what wire corresponded to the pin? For the EDID Spoofer. Also when you got the screen, before spoofing the EDID on it, did it work at all? Like did it work as a normal display?

I have a Multimeter, have a look over here

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/ho ... multimeter

and

http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-f ... rial.shtml

and

https://learn.adafruit.com/multimeters/overview

I can touch one of the cut wires with one of the test probes, and touch the pins on the video connector one at a time
with the other test probe, until I hear a beep, or see the reading change on the Multimeter.

I could almost swear I remember the 1280x800 LCD and Controller not working out of the box, but I just tried it without the EDID Spoofer and it worked.

1280x800 LCD and Controller without the EDID Spoofer.

1280x800 LCD and Controller with the EDID Spoofer.

The cheap little monitors and LCD / Controller seem to be programed with a generic EDID, or even just a copy from another monitor.

Post by **nah89** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 3:41 pm

Thanks. Yeah, the one I order from amazon didn't work so I got a refund and ordered it off a ebay. If the EDID spoofer makes it works then I guess I'll have two for the price one which is pretty awesome.

Post by **will1384** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:51 pm

nah89 wrote:Thanks. Yeah, the one I order from amazon didn't work so I got a refund and ordered it off a ebay. If the EDID spoofer makes it works then I guess I'll have two for the price one which is pretty awesome.

I remember it not working with the computer when I first tried it without the EDID spoofer, but today it worked without the EDID spoofer, not sure what changed, but I did nothing to the LCD controller, from what I remember it acted like there was no EDID inside the LCD controller, the LCD did power on, and I was able to get the LCD to display its own menu, but it never displayed any video from the computer, and the computer never detected any monitor.

Post by **GOD** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:39 am

Hi

Try this!

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library ... 85%29.aspx

Post by **will1384** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 12:43 pm

GOD wrote:Hi

Try this!

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library ... 85%29.aspx

Someone had already tried, and it did not work, have a look over here:

http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpbb/viewtopic.p ... 54#p117325

Apparently software reads the EDID directly from hardware, and ignores the Windows registry.

Post by **will1384** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 7:49 pm

I had got VorpX about a month ago and it was working, but today I let VorpX update and it installed the new Oculus Rift SDK with the new configuration utility, both fail to work with my DIY rift, however the Demos and old Oculus Rift SDK configuration utility seem to work fine.

Post by **will1384** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 11:19 pm

will1384 wrote:I had got VorpX about a month ago and it was working, but today I let VorpX update and it installed the new Oculus Rift SDK with the new configuration utility, both fail to work with my DIY rift, however the Demos and old Oculus Rift SDK configuration utility seem to work fine.

I started having problems with the computer detecting the DIY Rift after VorpX update installed the new Oculus Rift SDK, and after a restart the computer was no longer able to detect or use the DIY Rift at all, I tried uninstalling the new Oculus Rift SDK and it did not seem to help, so I did a system restore to just before the new Oculus Rift SDK was installed, and the DIY Rift worked again with no problems,

strange, the DIY Rift is working with the Oculus Rift SDK version 0.2.5 configuration utility.

Post by **will1384** » Mon Aug 25, 2014 11:51 am

I tried installing VorpX again, but this time when it downloaded and installed the new Oculus Rift SDK I clicked cancel when it started installing the tracker driver and I clicked cancel again when it started installing the video driver, and I had no problems with the DIY Rift, but VorpX still would not work, I think the new Oculus Rift SDK video driver is causing the problem.

I wish the new VorpX did not require the new Oculus Rift SDK, I guess I have to wait until I get Oculus Rift consumer version before I can start using VorpX again.

Post by **will1384** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:04 pm

Steam VR no longer works, Half Life 2 will no longer go into VR mode, the game "AaaaaAAaaaAAAaaAAAAaAAAAA!!! for the Awesome" tries to work but it looks bad, it might be using DK2 video mode or setup, I see the same discoloration and blurriness when trying DK2 demos, I cant get any game or demo that is DK2 enabled to work correctly.

Post by **GOD** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:55 am

Not fair...I purchased a USB EEPROM programmer this week....arrived today....and read that post.....

So....there is obviously some way to do this....yet how? Have you asked yettislama? (the guy that wrote the blog guide)

Post by **will1384** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:29 am

GOD wrote:Not fair...I purchased a USB EEPROM programmer this week....arrived today....and read that post.....

So....there is obviously some way to do this....yet how? Have you asked yettislama? (the guy that wrote the blog guide)

Stuff made for the DK1 still works, but if it gets updated to DK2 it seems to stop working, or it will try to work but be distorted, discolored, no tracking, out of focus around the edges, and have a warning about VR sickness and such that you need to press a keyboard key to dismiss.

I hope that they will fix that, and have the option to select DK1 compatibility.

It could even be that the EDID is off a bit, and the new software gets confused.

I started downloading all the demos I like that are still DK1 only, just in case they disappear or get updated.

Post by **leoburton** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 1:55 pm

@will1384

Will, I bought the same screen as you, and I'm curious what distance your lenses are from the screen to get a good 3D effect?

Your lenses are 5Xmag/ 2inch diameter, yes?

I'm converting a Neje/Colorcross HMD (for smartphones between 4-7inches) from China.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-to- ... 63626.html

Overall, Its a good bit of kit for the price. Work perfectly with my iPhone 5s. The lenses are good enough, but I thought I could add a 7inch HDMI screen instead, for £42.

I don't know what magnification the lenses are, it doesn't say, but the focal distance to the screen is 2.5 inches. At that distance , the Tridef settings are too far apart. I'm duplicating screens, but windows keeps filling the monitor edge-to-edge when I reduce the resolution on the games. But if I turn the monitor itself, to 4:3 it matches up, its just very stretched.

BUT when I watch a vorpx video through youtube, it fits perfectly!! I think because it's smaller in size. Whereas Tridef is two full halves of the screen.
Unfortunately I can't get the Oculus plugin for Tridef to work. Games keep crashing. Otherwise that might do it.

Don't know if I need to change the lenses that came with it, or order a 5.6inch screen instead. (because I like the form and build quality of the Neje as a base unit)

and running a Vorpx yuotube video through it.

Post by **will1384** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:51 pm

leoburton wrote:@will1384

Will, I bought the same screen as you, and I'm curious what distance your lenses are from the screen to get a good 3D effect?

Your lenses are 5Xmag/ 2inch diameter, yes?

I'm converting a Neje/Colorcross HMD (for smartphones between 4-7inches) from China.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-to- ... 63626.html

Overall, Its a good bit of kit for the price. Work perfectly with my iPhone 5s. The lenses are good enough, but I thought I could add a 7inch HDMI screen instead, for £42.

I don't know what magnification the lenses are, it doesn't say, but the focal distance to the screen is 2.5 inches. At that distance , the Tridef settings are too far apart. I'm duplicating screens, but windows keeps filling the monitor edge-to-edge when I reduce the resolution on the games. But if I turn the monitor itself, to 4:3 it matches up, its just very stretched.

BUT when I watch a vorpx video through youtube, it fits perfectly!! I think because it's smaller in size. Whereas Tridef is two full halves of the screen.
Unfortunately I can't get the Oculus plugin for Tridef to work. Games keep crashing. Otherwise that might do it.

Don't know if I need to change the lenses that came with it, or order a 5.6inch screen instead. (because I like the form and build quality of the Neje as a base unit)[/url]

Someone else had asked the distance from the lens to the screen and I took a small tape measure to check and it was right at 2 inches, the lenses I used are 5X and 2 inch diameter.

Post by **will1384** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:27 pm

I was making up a EDID spoofer for a friend, so I ordered this cable:

"AmazonBasics HDMI to DVI Adapter Cable - 9.8 Feet"

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TH7T2U

when I cut it open, the wires not wrapped in foil are:

Red = Not Connected
Yellow = DVI Pin (14) +5
Gray = DVI Pin (7) Data EDID
Black = Not Connected
Orange = DVI Pin (15) Ground
White = DVI Pin (16) Hot Plug
Purple = DVI Pin (6) Clock EDID

The colors may change, but thats how my cable was wired.

Post by **Sipheren** » Tue Sep 02, 2014 5:24 pm

will1384 wrote:EDID spoofer

Has there been any progress on the EDID spoofer with the SDK?

I have built my own HMD and tried to put together a EDID spoofer but it doesn't seem to work. The LCD turns on and shows my desktop but the Oculus Config doesn't show anything, in Device Manager the second LCD just shows as a Non-Standard PlugnPlay monitor.

I used the software you linked to show current devices but even when the LCD is plugged in it doesn't show up in the Monitor section.

I will take some pics of what I have done tonight and upload my EDID files, maybe I have missed something simple.

Cheers

Post by **will1384** » Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:49 pm

Sipheren wrote:
will1384 wrote:EDID spoofer

Has there been any progress on the EDID spoofer with the SDK?

I have built my own HMD and tried to put together a EDID spoofer but it doesn't seem to work. The LCD turns on and shows my desktop but the Oculus Config doesn't show anything, in Device Manager the second LCD just shows as a Non-Standard PlugnPlay monitor.

I used the software you linked to show current devices but even when the LCD is plugged in it doesn't show up in the Monitor section.

I will take some pics of what I have done tonight and upload my EDID files, maybe I have missed something simple.

Cheers

I have made 3 EDID spoofers, if you count the first one I had to rebuild, all have worked, if your EDID spoofer is not working, make sure its getting the 5v from USB, double check the wiring, power the chip up first before plugging the video cable into the computer, on my EDID spoofer I plug the USB cable into the computer before I plug the video cable into the computer, also the new-er Oculus rift SDKs may interfere with a DIY Rift, I am using the Oculus Rift SDK version 0.2.5.

Another thing to note, I am using a DVI to HDMI cable, I still have not tried a HDMI to HDMI cable.

Post by **Sipheren** » Wed Sep 03, 2014 2:13 am

will1384 wrote:
Sipheren wrote:
will1384 wrote:EDID spoofer

Has there been any progress on the EDID spoofer with the SDK?

I have built my own HMD and tried to put together a EDID spoofer but it doesn't seem to work. The LCD turns on and shows my desktop but the Oculus Config doesn't show anything, in Device Manager the second LCD just shows as a Non-Standard PlugnPlay monitor.

I used the software you linked to show current devices but even when the LCD is plugged in it doesn't show up in the Monitor section.

I will take some pics of what I have done tonight and upload my EDID files, maybe I have missed something simple.

Cheers

I have made 3 EDID spoofers, if you count the first one I had to rebuild, all have worked, if your EDID spoofer is not working, make sure its getting the 5v from USB, double check the wiring, power the chip up first before plugging the video cable into the computer, on my EDID spoofer I plug the USB cable into the computer before I plug the video cable into the computer, also the new-er Oculus rift SDKs may interfere with a DIY Rift, I am using the Oculus Rift SDK version 0.2.5.

Another thing to note, I am using a DVI to HDMI cable, I still have not tried a HDMI to HDMI cable.

Thanks for the reply, I will go over the wiring again and see if anything is wrong. Maybe I need to get a DVI to HDMI cable and try that.

2014-09-03 18.07.54.jpg

2014-09-03 18.08.08.jpg

Post by **will1384** » Wed Sep 03, 2014 11:36 am

Sipheren wrote: Thanks for the reply, I will go over the wiring again and see if anything is wrong. Maybe I need to get a DVI to HDMI cable and try that.

I tend to over look stuff like this but here is how my DVI to HDMI EDID spoofer is wired up.

DVI Pin (6) Clock EDID ------------------ Connected from the EDID spoofer to computer, not connected to the LCD.
DVI Pin (7) Data EDID ------------------ Connected from the EDID spoofer to computer, not connected to the LCD.
DVI Pin (14) +5 ------------------ Connected from computer to LCD, is not used by the EDID spoofer.
DVI Pin (15) Ground ------------------ Connected from computer to LCD, but is also connected to USB and the EDID spoofer.
DVI Pin (16) Hot Plug ------------------ Connected from computer to LCD, is not used buy the EDID spoofer.
USB Pin (1) +5 ------------------ Connected to the EDID spoofer, powers the chip.
USB Pin (4) Ground ------------------ Connected to the EDID spoofer, connected to the LCD, connected to the computer.
Everything else is connected from computer to LCD.

I also wonder if the Hot Plug pin might be the source of problems for some when using HDMI, I had found a circuit diagram over at

http://www.harbaum.org/till/dvi2par/index.shtml

that showed an 100 ohm resistor between HDMI Pin-19 Hot Plug Detect and HDMI Pin-18 +5v, I am not sure if that would help or not.

Post by **leoburton** » Wed Sep 03, 2014 2:30 pm

will1384 wrote:
leoburton wrote:@will1384

Someone else had asked the distance from the lens to the screen and I took a small tape measure to check and it was right at 2 inches, the lenses I used are 5X and 2 inch diameter.

Thanks for your answer Will.
I think I will try some pocket magnifying lenses.

Post by **will1384** » Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:50 pm

will1384 wrote:
Sipheren wrote: Thanks for the reply, I will go over the wiring again and see if anything is wrong. Maybe I need to get a DVI to HDMI cable and try that.
I tend to over look stuff like this but here is how my DVI to HDMI EDID spoofer is wired up.

DVI Pin (6) Clock EDID ------------------ Connected from the EDID spoofer to computer, not connected to the LCD.
DVI Pin (7) Data EDID ------------------ Connected from the EDID spoofer to computer, not connected to the LCD.
DVI Pin (14) +5 ------------------ Connected from computer to LCD, is not used by the EDID spoofer.
DVI Pin (15) Ground ------------------ Connected from computer to LCD, but is also connected to USB and the EDID spoofer.
DVI Pin (16) Hot Plug ------------------ Connected from computer to LCD, is not used buy the EDID spoofer.
USB Pin (1) +5 ------------------ Connected to the EDID spoofer, powers the chip.
USB Pin (4) Ground ------------------ Connected to the EDID spoofer, connected to the LCD, connected to the computer.
Everything else is connected from computer to LCD.

I also wonder if the Hot Plug pin might be the source of problems for some when using HDMI, I had found a circuit diagram over at

http://www.harbaum.org/till/dvi2par/index.shtml

that showed an 100 ohm resistor between HDMI Pin-19 Hot Plug Detect and HDMI Pin-18 +5v, I am not sure if that would help or not.

I also found a link that shows using a 1K resistor between "DVI Pin (14) +5" and "DVI Pin (16) Hot Plug"

http://philtechnicalblog.blogspot.com/2 ... ilema.html

Post by **will1384** » Fri Sep 05, 2014 7:39 pm

I had made up a EDID spoofer for a friend and it was not working for them, but I had used the same EDID spoofer on my computer for about a day to test it, and it was working, so I decided to spend some time working on the problem and found that my EDID spoofer was "hit or miss" and was not very compatible, so I got looking at a few different designs and went with this design

http://www.harbaum.org/till/dvi2par/index.shtml

I also use a different chip now, the 24LC21.

I was able to get this working on 3 different computers, and you should be able to use PowerStrip and the old DOS EDID software to flash the chip with out the programmer, just be careful not to flash your desktop monitor by mistake.