I wouldn't trust that ebay psu. Cheap PSU's have a habbit of failing in a way that takes whatever they are connected to with them.

Also, that brick is 12v. The HMZ-T1 needs 5v.

Personally, I don't think there is much reason to convert to DC input unless you will be using batteries.

5.6V to be exact, its going to be used with a DC-DC step down, 11.1 Lipo for FPV and 12V AC-DC for gaming

edit: the DC-DC step down is variable so I could as well use a 7 or 9V AC-DC adapter, but looks like the 12V versions are the ones most common to output more than 1A

edit2: Bob, in a DC-DC scenario thats impossible

I just tested the HMZ with the China DC-DC stepdown mentioned earlier and a 3A 12Volt brick and also with a 11.1 Lipo battery, works very well. It was a little hard tuning in 5.6 Volts on the stepdown, but once I got it right it was very stable, and since its switched it doesnt matter what input voltage I give it (12Volt from DC brick or 11.1 from Lipo battery) it will always output 5.6 volts.

@CyberVillain: Nice work. You have a ski goggle mod, right?. Does that fix the "sweet spot" problem by locking the unit into a stable orientation or do you still have issues with focus moving in and out at the edges?

Im ashamed to admit it but my HMD has been in a shelf for the last month, but, i have finally found a guy with a CNC rig that can help me fizz the mounting base for the optics, so this weekend I hope to come very far on completing this. I really want to try flying my AR Drone with this baby before winter

I have just tried it with a cardboard prototype base, (Still very stable) and I got focus right away, I didnt try it long enough to give a real review, but it felt very nice right away. Pierreye should have more info about this since he too have done the Ski goggles mod

Hi, i'm new.

I dont really understand why some peoples have comfort problems, because i use it one with light-blockers and i can play with it like 12h on 3D PC gaming.

Maybe it's because i have Serial model 200xxxxx ?

Or you have an unusual head shape?

Apparently there is a new 200xxxxxx version that has better sound and less pixelation overseas... also the weight is more distributed (can any one confirm this as I am just taking comments from another forum)? I called my local store (Canada) and they had not heard anything about this however they did mention that they are expecting to receive informaiton regarding an updated version for the fall? They told me to call back in a few weeks - here is hoping for a more comfortable design as well as 1080p... man oh man, this is going to make my final decision to order the st1080 that much more dificult lol!!!

EDIT - sounds like this is BS after reviewing the comments again - sorry!

I'm sorry, I love the HMZ, but its got to be the most uncomfortable consumer electronic device ever built. I feel like they are going to force prisoners in Guantanamo Bay to wear this thing day in and day out playing episodes of Barney just for the hell of it. Its that bad.

Yupp totally unusable without modding...

Hopefully I can get my mounting based fizzed tomorrow, and after that it wouldnt be far until my ski goggles mod is complete.

The mounting base will look like this

Been using the ski goggles mod for one month plus. Recently just finished Alan Wake using HMD which is a good game. The mod does make the HMD easier to wear and get better focus (almost perfect focus from edge to egde). I believe part of the reason is with tilt adjustment you can get better focus compare to stock. But I still have the goggles mark over my face and need a counterweight to make it more comfortable.

Hi all,

just join and wanted to said big thanks to pierreye which help me mod my hmz (Helmet type) and i did some small adjustment to it and now i got a perfect hmz device that i can get almost 100% clear picture only a bit blur on the right edge but not so noticeable and hopefully in future we can get a better hmz that have bigger fov and maybe 4k display optic.

What kind of batteries are you guys using? Im thinking about getting this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-4V-5000mAh-30 ... 4aa353e070

Its a 5000 mAh battery, so should give me about 2.5 hours (Only measured the current on the Sony at the welcome screeen and it used 1.5A so probably around 2A when processing a 3D signal)

Glad that you are happy with the HMD. In the future, I just want a unit with replaceable lens that can change the FOV depending on the needs.

I would get the energizer XP8000 or XP18000 (if you need to power your wireless receiver). I believe Energizer XP series battery come with built-in regulator that even at lower charge, it'll still output stable voltage before total cutoff when the juice run out.

Yeah, don't use that battery. It needs a balance charger, and is all kinds of dangerous unless you have it hooked up to a protection/regulation board like it would be attached to in an RC vehicle (The intended purpose).

The XP18000 is a bit more, but it is very well made, and known to work with a lot of different hardware.

Off course, charging it without a balancer is just stupid

I have a DC-DC stepdown, it can take a Voltage from 7.1 to 35 Volts and output 5.6 Volts (HMZ voltage)

edit: 100 Dollars on evil bay for the XP8000, i'll pass , is it an American product? Cant find it in Swedish stores

I looked on the specs for the XP 8000 mah and just a little warning, it has a maxium of 2A output, this is cutting it very close to what the SOny needs (The Sony specs says 15W = 2.67A)

Done some work on my mod, my friend has a little china made CNC rig, the precision isnt the best and his very unexperienced working with it so we did some mistakes, one fatal one that destroyed a drill and also made some damage to the mounting base, you can see the damage in the top left part of the mounting base.

Also found some design flaws, so going to do a V2 this week


The Regulator im going to use to make the Sony mobile requires cooling if the ampere is greater than 2A, I had some VRAM heatsinks laying around from a GFX cooler package, perfect fit

Very nice.

That is why you should use the XP18000, not the XP8000. You are right about that other battery, as long as you know what you are doing you will be fine, and it looks like you do! I am always wary of telling people to use them, I run a forum that has had several members buy cheap li-po packs, not protected or charged them properly, and then blown things up in flames.

Yea, lipos are dangerous, I always charge mine in a Lipo charger bag which is fire proof (And before I got a bag I used a saucepan with lid ), never had an indecent, knock on wood. By the way the XP 8000 and XP18000 uses Lipos so basically they are just a Lipo + balancer/charger + volt regulator in a kit. So you have the same problems there, but I guess the casing of the XP is fireproof so you dont need the charger bag...

Yeah, the casing is really nice. Having a variety of different voltage outputs at the same time is another cool benefit, and the battery meter is useful for knowing when your kit needs to be charged.

True, but you still need a regulator to get the 5.6 for the Sony. Nice with the meter, im planning to use a Lipo meter I have laying around.. But those are all valid points, but its an expensive product

Hi!

I just got my hmz-t1 two days ago, I love the immersion when playing games like WipeoutHD in 3d on my PS3 (awesome!) but working on my Computer the blurriness on the edges is a bit annoying.

So I thought if I got me a TrackIR5 maybe I could set up Windows 7 so that when I move my head the desktop moves? So that if I move my head the part of the window that isn't in focus moves to the center?

I know you can link the TrackIR to move the cursor but that wouldn't move the window would it?

And to attach the reflective patch to the hmz-t1 I'd need some kind of mount so the patch will be sitting vertically on the device right? I can't just put it onto the hmd?

Does anyone have any experience with TrackIR? Is it a good headtracker? Or would Viuzix or some other work better with the hmz-t1?

I also read just yesterday that the mz-t1 has a very high latency, is that true? I haven't noticed anything yet but I was wondering how much better the ST1080 is for gaming if its so much faster in the latency department.

I have a brand new comfort mod that is way better than my first, doesn't alter the HMZ, and is reversible. I'll be posting it this weekend.

bit off topic ! here comes SXGA OLED HMD on ebay
=================================================================================
refer here :zSight SXGA HMD.
Key Features Include:

* Bright, crisp, high-contrast OLED displays .
* High resolution full-color SXGA (1280x1024) pixels per eye.
* Patent-pending user-selectable usage modes:
o 60º field of view with 100% binocular overlap - for plug-and-play use
o 70º field of view with 75% binocular overlap - for wider field of view
* Integrated yaw/pitch/roll tracker. Tracker information is provided over USB.
* Integrated high-quality stereo audio and microphone.
* Digital video inputs. Operates with single or dual HDMI/DVI inputs. HDMI inputs can also carry stereo audio.
* Innovative “movie mode” allows widescreen viewing of 1680x1050 input signals across both eyes.
* Lightweight, low profile and comfortable: 450 grams (less than 1lb)
* Accepts +5V DC or USB power input.
* Optional battery operation (battery pack not included)

Specifications:

Field of view


User-configurable:
60° with 100% binocular overlap
70° with 75% binocular overlap

Display SXGA 1280x1024 full-color pixels per eye
OLED technology
Single display per eye
Contrast ratio: better than 10000:1
Lumnance: 150 fL
Color depth: 24 bit
Binocular or bi-ocular (auto sensing)

Video input

Single or dual HDMI 60 Hz.
Supported resolutions:

* SXGA 1280x1024
* HD720P 1280x720
* WSXGA+ 1680x1050

Also supports side-by-side 3D such as those in http://www.youtube.com/3d

Audio

Stereo sound
Integrated microphone
Audio input via input jack or embedded in HDMI signal

DC in

+5DV, less than 4W
AC adapter supplied.

Weight and size HMD weight:450 gram
Cable breakout box: 5x10x2 cm (2x4x1 inch), 50 gram

Display adjustment -4 to +4 individual diopter adjustment
Eye relief:16 mm
IPD: 54 to 72 mm

Integrated tracker Degrees of freedom: yaw/pitch/roll
Interface: USB
Sampling frequency: approx 125Hz
Pitch/roll accuracy: 0.75°

Battery option Rechargeable Lithium Ion.
2 hrs typical between charges.
Battery pack not included.
====================================================================================
the weight of headset is about the same as HMZ however the FOV is user-configurable [dunno how?] and it's usb powered with HDMI input possible.
and notice the control box [see link] nice but the price is a downer.
but definitely worth consideration for VR enthusiast who want immersion at the cost of resolution.

listed here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dl ... 0756107707

Damm! cannot they bring the price down to usd$1000.

funny part - the video input :see how FULL HD is conspicuous by it's absence. and limited 3d formats side-by-side only supported for video input resolutions

more surprising was - Sensics have their ebay store.

comparing this - HMZ still a nice choice despite comfort/optics issues.
Only if they bring in the version 2 [V2.0] - if they 'd.

@suckmysound: Thats a $12,000 HMD. Not even in the same league as a $800 consumer product.

Im not paying for half a car for a HMD If we could get a "90+ FOV, OLED 1080p, out of the box 3d vision support"-consumer product I would gladly pay 2000 dollars, but somewhere around there is my limit for a HMD

If someone was selling the real-deal virtual reality console, where you would connect it straight to your brain and jack into the Matrix. I'm talking 100% accurate, full sensory perception, indistinguishable from reality. Now that, I'd pay $12K for that. But for a current-generation HMD where you are basically just strapping some small screens to your head, no thanks.

Only $12,000?

Hi guys, the menu control board is connected through something called "Flexible PCB" (Direct translated from Swedish), its like a flat cabel, its very short so I have trouble finding a good way of mounting it to the skigoggle frame. Do you guys know if the connector is standard and can be bought somewhere?

Know what you mean. I checked elfa with minor success, at least for a suitable connector that doesn't damage the cable.
Do you have a trashed cd/dvd-player or hdd around? I think such cables and connectors could be common in some lcd monitors as well. If they suit however i don't know.

If its a micro flex cable, good luck. When my Hydra one broke, I found places I could buy them from, but they only made them to order and in larger amounts. How many conductors does it have?

Forgot to check while i were at work, and i left the stuff there, can check the number of pins later this week, right now i think the best solution is to just use a L-bracket and mount the control panel on that and use the orginal cable.

Tested my mod for the first time today with the alu mounting base, still see through glass in the goggles etc (willl spray paint it matte black tomorrow after work) but man what a difference, i can get 95% focus all over the image and it just a matter or putting on the goggles, with the stock design it can take minutes to get acceptable focus.

Some progress

I've spray painted the parts, very sexy result

My friends china CNC rig isn't perfect, and you can see it has left some marks on the piece, but its ok for the purpose


I had to use several layers to get it to cover 100%, used a strong lamp on the other side until i couldnt see the light on the other side, took about 7 layers


Mate paint is really good for this, zero reflections, you can compare with the platic i left unpainted in the top

Looking good. Once you get everything worked out you should consider creating a 3D model of it that would be suitable for a 3D printer like the other guy around here is doing.

Nice!

Let us know if it leave any mark on your face. I'm stripping out the soft sponge and replace with natural rubber padding (use by ladies for makeup) and see if it will reduce the marking.