Meant to be Seen

3dvison wrote:

Runxax wrote:Hi,

I already tried 5x 6x 7x aspheric lens over Galaxy Note 2, and in my opinion, the best result was 6x. But they are extremely expensive, 80USD each one.
Can u recommend some good 6x aspheric lens with friendly price?

Best regards
Rui Vieira

Could you give a link to the $80 6x lens. I don't know if I have seen them.

This is the lens http://www.amazon.com/Eschenbach-Aspher ... B002UNMY9A
I can buy here in Portugal for 53 EUR = 71,582 USD.

But please, someone could recommend any good 6x aspheric, whith friendly price?

Just to let you guys know, vorpx does not have support for the DIY hmd's. It will not even start without the rift connected, so it's not like vireio.

I don't understand why this was changed.. as he has posted he made it for his own diy projects.

So don't waste your money, Just a heads up!

huzhekun wrote:Hi, I want to build one of my own, but I have very limited resources, and because I cannot get a 5.6 inch screen and the right lens, can someone tell me how to calculate the distance between the lens and the screen? And I also would appreciate someone to send me the detailed instructions to setting up freeimu, connect it to a iPhone or a iPad and making it work in games. I know nothing about programming.

The distance between your screen and lens's is the focal length of the lens.

i just found this: VIVO XPLAY 3S PHONE'S 2560X1440 ,6 INCH screen ON MARKET:http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a21 ... =&sku=&ug=
screen price is chinese¥299=50$USD ;
, but I dont know if it is real


screen of this phone:http://list.taobao.com/itemlist/default ... .1000187.1

sorry for my english

Just messing around. Can't wait for the DK2 to arrive! Put them Hydras to better use.

Hello, fellow DIY-Rifters! I'm also planning a DIY HMD with the goal of staying under (or not too far above) a limit of 200€. Will provide lists, pics and schematics, of course

Building a HMD is pretty straight-forward, but I have, like many else, by far the worst struggle with the lenses. Atm I'm planning to build with a 5.6" 1280x800 panel, but I'm getting increasingly insecure whether this might be too small for the broadly-used 2" aspheric pocket lenses. Should I rather take the 7" version of the panel? I fear ending up with a huge FOV but a too small image within that field --> huge black borders around the image. Can anyone who used these lenses provide feedback regarding the display size (5.6" vs 7") and FOV?

I also found some european suppliers for aspheric lenses (some even achromatic!), but they usually come with quite an extra charge compared to importing the infamous 2" pocket lenses from the US. Did anyone of you encounter problems with chromatic aberration (colour shift) or is the extra-money for achromatic lenses (erased colour-shift) completely wasted?

My current favorite alternative lense has 40mm diameter and a whopping 7.8x magnification (focal length f=32mm!) for about the same price as the imported lenses, but is unfortunately not aspheric (still recommended?). With a pair these I'd tend to go for maximum ppi (e.g. 5.6" insteadof 7") to minimize the screen door effect which should be quite noticable at these small focal lengths, but I really have no idea how the FOV will work out: too small to see all pixels, way too large for a 5.6"..?

Input greatly appreciated!

drifterXF wrote:Should I rather take the 7" version of the panel? I fear ending up with a huge FOV but a too small image within that field --> huge black borders around the image.

Depends on what you want to do. If it's a DK1 clone, use a 7" panel with the UltraOptix 7x aspheric lenses, that's the closest you'll be to the original.

drifterXF wrote:Did anyone of you encounter problems with chromatic aberration (colour shift) or is the extra-money for achromatic lenses (erased colour-shift) completely wasted?

I'd say it would be wasted since you can do it for free in software.

drifterXF wrote:but is unfortunately not aspheric (still recommended?).

Yes, aspheric lenses correct spherical aberration. If you use spherical lenses you won't be able to collimate the light from the display and the periphery will be distorted.

drifterXF wrote:With a pair these I'd tend to go for maximum ppi (e.g. 5.6" insteadof 7") to minimize the screen door effect which should be quite noticable at these small focal lengths

In their update to announce the new screen Oculus VR said that the 7" had a higher fill factor and that the screen door effect was reduced compared to the 5.6" panel.

Awesome, thanks for the detailed reply.

Fredz wrote:

drifterXF wrote:Should I rather take the 7" version of the panel? I fear ending up with a huge FOV but a too small image within that field --> huge black borders around the image.

Depends on what you want to do. If it's a DK1 clone, use a 7" panel with the UltraOptix 7x aspheric lenses, that's the closest you'll be to the original.

What I would like to do is to create a very immersive HMD (9 DoF tracking is already covered) with a screen quality that's at least comparable toi DK1. That means wide FOV, but preferably with a lot less screen door effect. Also, I'd rather have a bigger black border area than wasting some pixels.

I also just found a super cheap possibility for importing the 7x Ultraoptix. The question is now whether a 5.6" display will be too small for these lenses. Can you already see all the pixels when using these lenses with a 7" display?

drifterXF wrote:With a pair these I'd tend to go for maximum ppi (e.g. 5.6" insteadof 7") to minimize the screen door effect which should be quite noticable at these small focal lengths

In their update to announce the new screen Oculus VR said that the 7" had a higher fill factor and that the screen door effect was reduced compared to the 5.6" panel.[/quote]

Ok, this is confusing. The resolution stays the same, so I thought that the ppi would increase with smaller size. How is the fill factor of the 7" higher then? Only possibility I can imagine that the actual size of one Pixel is different in different panels and that this reduces the gap between the pixels, even though the actual pixel-pixel-distance is higher.

drifterXF wrote:What I would like to do is to create a very immersive HMD (9 DoF tracking is already covered) with a screen quality that's at least comparable to DK1.

That rules out the 5.6" display then, it's largely inferior to the 7" panel used in the DK1.

drifterXF wrote:That means wide FOV, but preferably with a lot less screen door effect.

If you want less screen door effect you need to compromise on the FOV or use a higher res panel. The only possibility at this time is to buy the RiftUP! or to wait for the DK2. Depends on your budget.

drifterXF wrote:Also, I'd rather have a bigger black border area than wasting some pixels.

For that you'd need to try other aspheric lenses to see the result by yourself, but you'll compromise on the vertical FOV.

Fredz wrote:That rules out the 5.6" display then, it's largely inferior to the 7" panel used in the DK1.

Ok, thanks for the answer. But what 7" exactly is the one used in the DK1?
For I have found the following two, of which I wanted to choose one:
- 5.6": http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-2AV-LC ... 1261737606
- 7": http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-2AV-Lc ... 1149857798
Is there any way to tell which panels will have less screen-door effect? Any recommendation for or against one of these two or maybe a whole different one?

Fredz wrote:If you want less screen door effect you need to compromise on the FOV or use a higher res panel. The only possibility at this time is to buy the RiftUP! or to wait for the DK2. Depends on your budget.

Unfortunately, that is out of the question
In fact, the DIY-project is already an additional expense since I wanted to wait for CV1 initially
I think I will just stick to the regular 3M polarizer foil mod then and be happy with it. Just wanted to check if there are other options to further reduce the door screen effect.

Fredz wrote:For that you'd need to try other aspheric lenses to see the result by yourself, but you'll compromise on the vertical FOV.

So you mean that these 7x Lenses don't cover the whole 7" screen? How much pixels are approximately lost?

drifterXF wrote:Ok, thanks for the answer. But what 7" exactly is the one used in the DK1?

It's the Innolux HJ070IA-02D but it's nowhere to be found. Somebody bought the Innolux HJ070IA-02F as a replacement for its defective display and it worked out of the box. So they're probably the same, only a revision of the original.

drifterXF wrote:Is there any way to tell which panels will have less screen-door effect? Any recommendation for or against one of these two or maybe a whole different one?

I guess this information may be available in the datasheet for each display, but you'll have to hunt them on the Web. I've put up a page for interesting displays there where there are some datasheets : http://vr.wikinet.org/wiki/Displays

drifterXF wrote:I think I will just stick to the regular 3M polarizer foil mod then and be happy with it. Just wanted to check if there are other options to further reduce the door screen effect.

I'm not sure the 3M diffuser will be an improvement. Palmer already knew about this technique for minimizing the screen door effect but didn't use it for the DK1 in the end, and I think there are good reasons for this. Overall the image is only blurred and it compromises the brightness, the colors and the contrast.

drifterXF wrote:So you mean that these 7x Lenses don't cover the whole 7" screen? How much pixels are approximately lost?

It depends on the eye relief and the IPD and it's very variable from person to person. You can find more info about this on reddit but I can't find the link right now.

This is pure gold for me. Seriously, you cannot imagine how much I appreciate your help with this! (just bought cheap ski googles and a used PS Eye with easy-to-remove IR filter from ebay, I'm slowly getting there!)

Fredz wrote:It's the Innolux HJ070IA-02D but it's nowhere to be found. Somebody bought the Innolux HJ070IA-02F as a replacement for its defective display and it worked out of the box. So they're probably the same, only a revision of the original.

The latter also seems to be quite elusive. But I guess it wouldn't be the right panel for me, anyways, as I'd rather buy the panel and driver-board in a combo so I don't have to worry about compatibilities, cables etc.

Fredz wrote:I guess this information may be available in the datasheet for each display, but you'll have to hunt them on the Web. I've put up a page for interesting displays there where there are some datasheets : http://vr.wikinet.org/wiki/Displays

Awesome work, thanks a lot for the site!
I'll try to attach the datasheets for LTD056EV7F / HT056WX1-100 (you already have the one for the 7" on your page). Perhaps you could take a short peek at it? (or, even better, tell me what info I need to look for!) You stated that my linked 5.6" (LTD056EV7F / HT056WX1-100) was "largely inferior to the 7" panel used in the DK1". How do you know?
And how does my linked 7" (N070ICG-LD1) compare to the 7" from the DK1?

Fredz wrote:I'm not sure the 3M diffuser will be an improvement. [...] Overall the image is only blurred and it compromises the brightness, the colors and the contrast.

Ok, hint taken, that would save me another 10€ (found a cheap 10" 3M polarizer on the US amazon site), thanks!
I'll keep that in mind though, perhaps I'll come back to that diffuser idea later. Getting a first prototype running is the top priority for now.

Fredz wrote:It depends on the eye relief and the IPD and it's very variable from person to person. You can find more info about this on reddit but I can't find the link right now.

Sorry, my question was badly worded. I just wanted an educated guess whether it's going to be 1-2%or more like 25%, since I really have no idea how that will work out. Heck, in fact I've never even had a HMD on my face!
Atm all my knowledge comes from photos, forums, blogs and videos.

drifterXF wrote:just bought cheap ski googles and a used PS Eye with easy-to-remove IR filter from ebay, I'm slowly getting there!

If it's for positional tracking you can keep the camera as-is and do the same than Sony with the Datura demo or the Morpheus. You can use the PS Move API to track the PS Move in the hand or on the head.

drifterXF wrote:The latter also seems to be quite elusive. But I guess it wouldn't be the right panel for me, anyways, as I'd rather buy the panel and driver-board in a combo so I don't have to worry about compatibilities, cables etc.

Have a look at this thread about the screen replacement. Astouch also sell controller boards it seems.

drifterXF wrote:Awesome work, thanks a lot for the site!

I've created a new Wiki since then because the old one was not very reliable : http://vrwiki.wikispaces.com/
You may be interested specifically by these pages :
- http://vrwiki.wikispaces.com/DIY+HMD
- http://vrwiki.wikispaces.com/Oculus+Rift+mods

drifterXF wrote:Perhaps you could take a short peek at it? (or, even better, tell me what info I need to look for!

I didn't find the info in this datasheet, I guess it's not always available, sorry.

drifterXF wrote:You stated that my linked 5.6" (LTD056EV7F / HT056WX1-100) was "largely inferior to the 7" panel used in the DK1". How do you know?

That's what Oculus explained in the link I gave. But to make it short, it's only 6bits/color (vs 8bits), has awful response time (30ms vs 15ms) and the image quality is far worse in any regard. No wonder since this display is from 2008.

drifterXF wrote:And how does my linked 7" (N070ICG-LD1) compare to the 7" from the DK1?

No idea, you should compare the datasheets.

Fredz wrote:Sorry, my question was badly worded. I just wanted an educated guess whether it's going to be 1-2%or more like 25%, since I really have no idea how that will work out.

As I said it's very variable from person to person.

Here is an example (from this post) but it has been worse for others :

for cheap lens check
http://www.surplusshed.com/

Ok, again thanks a lot!

I'll stick to the plan with using FreeTrackNoIR with the IR-Track-Plugin, though. It's really cheap and easily crafted. Plus the PS3 Eye can work with 110Hz, so I guess the lag will be tolerable.


But I've got two questions regarding the power supply, because I can't see the needed currents or plug-type for this controller board and display combo in the spec sheets:
- Am I correct that this board uses a standard 5.5mm DC Plug?
- What current should the Power supply deliver? I don't know if 2A x 12V= 24 Watts will be enough. Any experiences?


Btw should I open an own thread for my project or can I continue to hijack this one?

drifterXF wrote:I'll stick to the plan with using FreeTrackNoIR with the IR-Track-Plugin, though. It's really cheap and easily crafted.

It'll only work for relatively small rotations of the head though, but you're right that it's probably the easier solution to get things working quickly. You can still improve on this later.

drifterXF wrote:Plus the PS3 Eye can work with 110Hz, so I guess the lag will be tolerable.

The resolution is quite bad at this frequency though (320x240 instead of 640x480 at 60Hz). I don't know what the latency is either, in the Rift it's only used as a complement of the IMU and it's tracking at 60Hz in 752x480. That's why I talked about using the PS Move attached to the head since it's optical and it has a IMU.

drifterXF wrote:But I've got two questions regarding the power supply, because I can't see the needed currents or plug-type for [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-2AV-Lc ... 1149857798]this controller board

The guy there used a universal 5Volt 600mAh power supply with this controller board, maybe you can contact him to have more details :
http://o2t1.blogspot.de/2013/01/raspber ... creen.html

drifterXF wrote:Btw should I open an own thread for my project or can I continue to hijack this one?

Maybe a new thread would be more appropriate, it would be easier to follow your progress without it being buried in a 45+ pages thread.

Fredz wrote:The resolution is quite bad at this frequency though (320x240 instead of 640x480 at 60Hz). I don't know what the latency is either, in the Rift it's only used as a complement of the IMU and it's tracking at 60Hz in 752x480. That's why I talked about using the PS Move attached to the head since it's optical and it has a IMU.

I read somewhere that it can go up to 110Hz@640x480 with a modded firmware, which should be enough for a first prototype, I hope. If not, I'll definitely try the PS Move approach, saw some controllers going really cheap on eBay.

Fredz wrote:The guy there used a universal 5Volt 600mAh power supply with this controller board, maybe you can contact him to have more details :
http://o2t1.blogspot.de/2013/01/raspber ... creen.html

5Vx0,6A = 3W sounds extremely low to me. But then again: what do I know
Anyways, I wrote a message to the seller on eBay and asked him about the power consumption of board+screen. Hopefully I get an informative answer soon.

Fredz wrote:Maybe a new thread would be more appropriate, it would be easier to follow your progress without it being buried in a 45+ pages thread.

Done

drifterXF wrote:I read somewhere that it can go up to 110Hz@640x480 with a modded firmware, which should be enough for a first prototype, I hope. If not, I'll definitely try the PS Move approach, saw some controllers going really cheap on eBay.

On Wikipedia it's said that it can even capture in 320x240 at 187Hz or 640x480 at 75Hz. I don't know with which driver and maybe it's in B&W only.

I mentioned the 640x480 at 60Hz because it's very close to the specs of the DK2 camera (752x480 at 60Hz). I guess it's the best compromise between frequency and resolution for them.

Hello everyone. I don't often post here on MTBS but when I stumbled onto this DIY-Rift thing. I had to get involved. Over the past few years I have been heavily into Designing, Building, and Flying R/C Airplanes out of cheap foam. Like the one shown. I was actually surfing YouTube watching R/C Vehicle videos when I happen to see DIY FPV googles for R/C. Then... I saw the DIY-Rift videos! OMG my heart raced! The next day I ordered the parts. Like many I wanted a real Rift but could not justify the price for a Prototype product that likely will lose support when the Consumer Rift is released. Expecially with the DK1 going for $500 to $600 on ebay. This seemed like the perfect solution to get my Oculus Rift fix! After a week the parts arrived. Using a 7" 1280x800 screen I scraped together what you see here. Unfortunately I could not find a long LVDS cable so I mounted the Control board and Keyboard in the bulge on the top. I am however, still very happy with the result. For head-tracking, I am using a very cheap Gyroscopic Air Mouse that Velcro's to the top strap. In a DIY Rift guide I read. The author mentioned FreePI and it's ability to map a mouse to Rift movements allowing you to play demos and games specifically designed for the Rift. Unfortunately he didn't go into any more detail. I tried downloading FreePI from their website but the link seems to be dead. If anyone could provide me with a download link to Free PI and point me to a guide on how to use it with my Gyro-Mouse it would be much appreciated. Also if there is an alternative to mapping mouse to rift input please say so. Preferably point me to the option which is easiest to use.

I am very new to this Rift thing. So please point me to any software I should try that would make my experience as enjoyable as possible.

Thanks in advance.

I found some 38mmX41mm square lenses you all should look at.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NtPAKTLbQk
Carson LumiPop 5x (LP-66):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C67 ... UTF8&psc=1

This is my lens cups and holders:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTg8wt97Db0
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O0 ... UTF8&psc=1

Lenses from eyes 3 position and up and down adjustment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-El9Cuqy1w

Has anyone done instead of using a ski mask one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YC ... UTF8&psc=1

I was thinking to just take out the welding filter and replace it with another make of plastic with the lenses in it? Any thoughts?

Hiya,

Been reading this thread for the last couple of hours in total awe. Sorry nothing sensible to add here (yet) but seriously interested in building one of these.
I was just wondering if any of you happen to be from the Sydney/OZ area and be willing to exchange a pm or two.

Cheers,

Bastiaan Olij

3DFPV wrote:I found some 38mmX41mm square lenses you all should look at.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NtPAKTLbQk
Carson LumiPop 5x (LP-66):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C67 ... UTF8&psc=1

This is my lens cups and holders:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTg8wt97Db0
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O0 ... UTF8&psc=1

Lenses from eyes 3 position and up and down adjustment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-El9Cuqy1w

Hi, I've just seen your videos on youtube. It seems you made a lot of experiments with lenses.
I ordered the components for my DIY rift and I'm waiting them to arrive: a 7" LCD 1280*800 screen + board and a couple of those (someone said "infamous"...) 2" loupe aspheric lenses 5X.
In the meantime I'm making some tests with 3X fresnel panels (2 "soft" and 2 "rigid") according to this project http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=16231
Not so bad if you are not interseted in 3D.

Anyway, keeping in mind my 7" screen, what's your suggestion about lenses? round/square, 5X/7X, aspheric? what else?
What's the best compromise between FOV and image quality?

Thank you in advance
Gico62

nah89 wrote:Has anyone done instead of using a ski mask one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YC ... UTF8&psc=1

I was thinking to just take out the welding filter and replace it with another make of plastic with the lenses in it? Any thoughts?

What about this version?

http://www.amazon.it/Occhiali-protettiv ... +saldatura

PROS: ready to host a couple of 50mm lenses (lenses diameter is specified somewhere else)
CONS: cannot adjust lenses IPD and convergence

Gico62 wrote:what's your suggestion about lenses? round/square, 5X/7X, aspheric? what else?

7X aspheric :



5X aspheric :



Make your choice...

Please what software is this masterpiece for optical calculation? Really awesome! I testing now the RiftUp full hd display and the difference from 1280*800 is huge. It is true that it is not cheap, but the result is nice...more about it is in RiftUp thread

Fredz wrote:
Make your choice...

Thanks.
Anyway at the moment my only choice is the 2" loupe 5X magnifier sold on ebay, as I cannot find other suppliers for cheap aspheric lenses.

Hornet wrote:Please what software is this masterpiece for optical calculation? Really awesome!

Thanks. It's a ray-tracer I wrote, but I guess you could do the same with Zemax or Oslo.

What about this monster to use as screen for a DIY oculus Rift?

Samsung Galaxy Note 4 release date, price and specs: 4K curved-screen phone for September IFA unveiling

Samsung's next big handset launch will be the Galaxy Note 4, which is tipped to have a 5.7in 4k screen and come in a version with a 4k screen, and will be unveiled at IFA in September.

I have tried my head mounted display with the LG G3 (2560x1440), it’s very impressive.
You have to try it my friends!

I need your help to find a controller board for this screen.
All what I find is for 1280x800 max!

You can find the screen on Ebay for about 100 €:
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/USA-LG-G3-D850-D ... 1148139033

It make a big difference with the complete LG smartphone price.

Thank you in advance.

Hi all, I am new to this forum, i read something about the DIY VR glasses and I just want one too:)

I bought these glasses:
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/181575421682?ssP ... 1439.l2648

Am thinking of putting a screen 5.6 inch on these glasses to, i think some modding will be needed...
Hope you can help me with some of my ideas, i am thinking of simple alternatives since I do not have all the tools.

First what are the pro's and con's except price for the 5.6 or 7.0 inch screens 1280x800?
These glasses will fit 153x81x10mm, so the 5.6 will not fit in the vertical sence, 2mm to much i think.

I am thinking of making a box with the controller board in it, and ordering a 1meter 30 pin IDE cable with IDC female connector on it and connecting it to this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IDC30-2x15-Pins ... 565b4f0ab8
and the board will go in to something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enclosure-Case- ... 1025517579

Then i will connect this Male Header Breakout Board to LVDS cable of the screen and will put this behind the screen.
Will this work, cable wise?

Then i will make a case for the screen which will have to fit on the glasses, probally will glue it on, cause bolts or screws will show in the glasses.
I am thinking of making this from PVC foam, since this is easy to cut and bend.
Or did somebody already made a screen case for a glasses like this, for 3d printing?
And what will something like that cost?

If everything works i am considering trying to put this in for movement, however i think this will not give the full experience:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-4G-6-Axis ... 43cf4b9f0c

Any thoughts?

Look here for RiftUp , not so cheap but really nice

http://riftup.vrunion.com/ or vait for consumer version CV1 of Rift (some months but the same price as RiftUp). or you can buy DK2 now.

Hello ttt888,

I am glad to see more interest in DIY RIFTs. I myself made a DIY RIFT very close to the DK1 experience. You can find it a few posts up on this page. I am VERY happy with it. The air mouse I chose is not so good though. Horizontal tracking is very quick and responsive but vertical is not so much. Also in either direction there is quite a bit of drift. Guess that's what I get for $20. I have however learned to compensate for drift by correcting with the mouse in my hand. That has become second nature and now I can play several hours without feeling ill. I would imagine something like the STEM PACK tracking would make it almost perfect. Something that expensive though is hard to justify. Especially when we don't know what the tracking standard in VR will be. If STEM were to become the standard. It would make things simpler. Instead of every headset using their own proprietary tracking. Having a single clip on tracker would solve MANY problems.

Tridef is the software I use to play games. I think it's great! Using an air mouse for tracking is also a good workaround to the problems people are reporting with Real DK1s + Tridef. Unfortunately support for it seems to have died. Staff is no longer responding on their forums.

All in, it was some where around $150 to construct. A 1080p screen would be amazing but cost even more. With CV1 likely less than 1 Year away. I would suggest waiting. That said. I could not wait and I am very happy with my DIT RIFT. I am however a super 3D loving nerd. I have had 3D hardware since the 90s. This RIFT idea is the best 3D I have ever used by a LONG LONG way! Even with it's relatively low perceived resolution.

Your ideas seem interesting. It will be cool if you are able to construct a breakout box instead of mounting the board to the RIFT like I did.

Lcountach, Thanks for the reply and info.
Yet i thinking I am not going to wait, I just can't .... :p

What you think of this http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/fpv ... obril.html

Well when i receive my glasses, I will consider buying a display and stuff.

Edit:
Btw LCountach I like your glasses, the PVC Foam board, is quite easy to handle right?
What kinda glue did you use?

It's hard to say but I "think" those homemade FPV goggles in that thread are 2D and not what your looking for. The screenshot showed a complete normal widescreen image. Not 2 SBS barrel distorted images like Oculus uses. The smartphone goggles you are looking at on ebay should work for a DIY project. Unfortunately there is no telling what the optics will give you. FOV and clarity may be good or bad. Who can say until you try them. At least they're not to expensive.

Yes that foam board was good for making the HMD. I used foam safe Super Glue you can buy at local hobby shops. It almost always has a gold label. I am not sure if the "Foam Safe" kind was necessary for that black foam board. I did see a youtube video where the guy used regular super glue. I know from experience with the white foam sheets I construct my R/C Planes from. Normal super glue dissolves the foam. Super glue is also very runny. If you go that route. Be very careful not to get it on your screen, lenses, or other sensitive areas of the HMD.

Good luck.

If any one ever find a way to drive LG G3 screen with HDMI supported board it will be historic event in DiY Rift scene.
Its most affordable plenty in supply WQHD RGB panel.

This display;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultrathin-Full- ... RK:MESE:IT
Is a real 5.9, 1080x1920 pixel monitor with, 14leds in line, 8000cm/d2 backlite brig and 250cm/d2 LCM brig and contrast 700-1000.
It has an MIPI connection, but i can get an controllerboard from MIPI 2 HDMI which works.

However this MIPI screen has an 35 MS response time, but contrast and brightness seems to be better then the monitors below...;

The 5.6 inch 1280 x 800 display (HV056WX1-100), has a 30 MS response time
The 7 inch 1280 x 800 display (N070ICG LD1) has an 16 MS response time.

The MIPI seems to be the most expensive, then the 5.6 and then the 7.

Now my question is how about those response time, any experience???
It seems to me that 35 MS maybe is too much for a display for playing a FPS like Call of duty...or will i not even notice?

I have a 7" screen in my DIY Rift. It was listed something like 15ms response time. I don't remember exactly. When playing it has very slight motion blur. I stayed away from other 30ms screens because of the same concerns you have. I never actually tested the 30ms screens though. 1080p is very tempting. I will admit the limited resolution you can actually see from the 800p screen can often be a hindrance to gameplay. With my setup I see clearly about 620p horizontal and vertical. The rest is peripheral vision.

Sorry I didn't really offer much help.

Currently I have a 5" DIY rift based mostly on Rob Fulans (one of the first posts in this thread - http://bitcortex.com/oculus-libre-open- ... ulus-rift/)

I found a cheap IMU and tried using an Arudino UNO to run it - I used FreePie and had it working (badly) with the typical DIY rift applications. In the end I just purchased the "ED Tracker" kit which is designed to work with the Elite Dangerous game (and others) by emulating a joystick. http://edtracker.org.uk/

I designed it to be disassembled once I knew everything was working (which is why it looks a bit boxy). The IMU is really accurate with very little drift.

What id like to do now is improve the resolution. Can anyone offer suggestions on where to find a 5" true 1080p screen? I see 2 posts before someone has found one with a pretty bad response time.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultrathin-Full- ... RK:MESE:IT
(plus its looks like it would require a MIPI to HDMI adapter?)

I also found last year some guy was manufacturing 5" HD screens to refit the DK1 (but isn't anymore?) https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/riftup

I'm also trying to reduce on the weight on the front. Ive tried CADing up a new shell that houses the control board on the top of the HMD so the weight is distributed and the cables don't 'hang' from the furthermost point like in other designs. (ill be printing it nylon with an SLS)

Is it possible to extend the LVDS cable so the control board can just sit on a desk, off the HMD?

Hi,

it is possible (or was?) to buy the 5,6 full HD panel with HDMI to MIPI interface here: http://riftup.vrunion.com/

but there are some problems (specially for dual panel HMD) - first it is only HDMI input and only 1920x1080 60 Hz signal possible. It is in portrait mode not landscape (must be rotated in computer drivers).

second - it is not cheap (cca 200 EUR/pcs)
third - it is not possible to use splitter or HDMI adapter (signal only from computer) - this means two HDMI cables for dual panel HMD,

I experimeting with them, for proper adjustment od pictures is needed use of Fresnel lenses, but all is not so practical.
I am waiting for 5" panels 1280x800 are there so bad? (it is special project of dual screen HMD for old 3D NVidia drivers on XP for Condor soaring simulator)


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