[DIY] 3-D lenticulars (success!)
Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:49 pm
ok, I'm not very up on commercial print... I thought I couldn't do it...I was wrong!
I made my first very successful 3-D lenticular image (5x7) last night, it was tough.
The hardest part to me was finding the right lpi setting (line per inch) for my lenticular sheet.
It is sold as 60, but in reality it seems to be 59.85 (the difference is that it works or doesn't).
Then I had to print a ton of throw away images, finding the right settings for my HP printer.
The last step was lining it up correctly, thats pretty tough...
used the lenticular sample pack from here:
http://www.vuethru.com/lenticularlens.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Heres is basic info, I'm hoping maybe this is a project we all work on together and come up with a 'newbie guide to lenticular'
1. Converted a drawing to 3D using stereopaint, ended up with two stereo images.
http://www.zenratai.com/software/stereo ... /index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2. opened those images in "stereotracer"..an app that creates the in between frames based on a heightmap.
Works very well with stereo painted images, not so well for photos..so far (help needed)
http://www.triaxes.com/index.php?id=59" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
3. exported the frames (12) to "superflip!" (free app to combine the images into a lenticular image)
http://www.vuethru.com/lentlensblanks_superflip.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
4. printed the image on my HP printer
5. lined it up and attached to the plastic (came with adhesive backing)
I had a major issue though, it looked perfect looking straight at it until I flipped the plastic down (help on a tape hinge), once it was flat it shifted...couldn't undo it, so now when I look at it I have to tilt it slightly..its like the sweet spot shifted over...
If anyone is interested, I can throw all my settings up here...
Questions I have:
- What is the minimum number of frames needed for 3-D? is it better to have more or less?
- Whats the best way to use a stereo pair for photos?
- will there always be a shift in the image? I notice on commercial 3D lentics' that there are a few sweet spots and transition areas between. Can I make one thats full solid 3D from one side to the other?
I made my first very successful 3-D lenticular image (5x7) last night, it was tough.
The hardest part to me was finding the right lpi setting (line per inch) for my lenticular sheet.
It is sold as 60, but in reality it seems to be 59.85 (the difference is that it works or doesn't).
Then I had to print a ton of throw away images, finding the right settings for my HP printer.
The last step was lining it up correctly, thats pretty tough...
used the lenticular sample pack from here:
http://www.vuethru.com/lenticularlens.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Heres is basic info, I'm hoping maybe this is a project we all work on together and come up with a 'newbie guide to lenticular'
1. Converted a drawing to 3D using stereopaint, ended up with two stereo images.
http://www.zenratai.com/software/stereo ... /index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2. opened those images in "stereotracer"..an app that creates the in between frames based on a heightmap.
Works very well with stereo painted images, not so well for photos..so far (help needed)
http://www.triaxes.com/index.php?id=59" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
3. exported the frames (12) to "superflip!" (free app to combine the images into a lenticular image)
http://www.vuethru.com/lentlensblanks_superflip.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
4. printed the image on my HP printer
5. lined it up and attached to the plastic (came with adhesive backing)
I had a major issue though, it looked perfect looking straight at it until I flipped the plastic down (help on a tape hinge), once it was flat it shifted...couldn't undo it, so now when I look at it I have to tilt it slightly..its like the sweet spot shifted over...
If anyone is interested, I can throw all my settings up here...
Questions I have:
- What is the minimum number of frames needed for 3-D? is it better to have more or less?
- Whats the best way to use a stereo pair for photos?
- will there always be a shift in the image? I notice on commercial 3D lentics' that there are a few sweet spots and transition areas between. Can I make one thats full solid 3D from one side to the other?
