Meant to be Seen

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wuhlei wrote:So the front panel cannot be used to block one eye per frame?

Yes, if you wear the iz3d glasses. However for shutters it's impossible because of the usual (lcd) high internal lag of the monitor. The front panel can't be used as a parallax barrier either because it's transparent for the eye but is altering the polarization properties of the light. One occasion might be using polarizers in front of each eye, removing the diffuser and running the zalman mode on the back panel and at the same time send the white/black lines to the front... Question is why someone should want to do this.

wuhlei wrote:Should be pretty easy to remove the diffuser, unless it's attached to some thing?

Don't know. Haven't tried and isn't curious enough to do so.

wuhlei wrote:Any one try making parallax barriers for their laptop?

Would work just as well as Cyberealitys setup if using a good printer.

Likay wrote: One occasion might be using polarizers in front of each eye, removing the diffuser and running the zalman mode on the back panel and at the same time send the white/black lines to the front... Question is why someone should want to do this.

So I could get a 3D colored image instead of a 3D ghosting effect? Unless the glasses only works on the front panel.

Likay wrote:

wuhlei wrote:Should be pretty easy to remove the diffuser, unless it's attached to some thing?

Don't know. Haven't tried and isn't curious enough to do so.

Is the polarized filter on top of the front port lcd or is it the diffuser?

This would make a neat project and I have a cam.

I wonder if you could use the photo exposure paper they use to develop pictures, tape it to your monitor with the template displayed fullscreen to get a hard copy template for your parallax. Then, photocopy that on to a transparent sheet.

industrai; that's a wonderfully old-school idea, but sadly the barriers need to be a tiny bit smaller than the pixels.

cybereality, have you gotten around to trying the wider barriers thing again?

AntiCatalyst wrote: cybereality, have you gotten around to trying the wider barriers thing again?

Well this weekend was the first free-time I have had in a while, but I spent the entire day converting my Apple DRMed music collection into standard MP3 format for use on my new Android phone. Really annoying, but I got it all done. Probably just gonna buy my music on Amazon MP3 from now on, the prices are better anyway. Maybe I will take a look at this parallax barrier thing tomorrow...

cybereality wrote:

AntiCatalyst wrote: cybereality, have you gotten around to trying the wider barriers thing again?

Well this weekend was the first free-time I have had in a while, but I spent the entire day converting my Apple DRMed music collection into standard MP3 format for use on my new Android phone. Really annoying, but I got it all done. Probably just gonna buy my music on Amazon MP3 from now on, the prices are better anyway. Maybe I will take a look at this parallax barrier thing tomorrow...

DRM? oh yeah it's the stuff non-torrenters have to deal with.

Watched the vid, very impressive stuff! I know there are 17 pages and it was already discussed but, I looked at your screenshots and while I could see 3d there were also a lot of lines n stuff- so my question is, if I already own an iz3d should I bother with this? from what I understand I might get less ghosting in exchange for the line artifact thingies.

cybereality wrote:

AntiCatalyst wrote: cybereality, have you gotten around to trying the wider barriers thing again?

Well this weekend was the first free-time I have had in a while, but I spent the entire day converting my Apple DRMed music collection into standard MP3 format for use on my new Android phone. Really annoying, but I got it all done. Probably just gonna buy my music on Amazon MP3 from now on, the prices are better anyway. Maybe I will take a look at this parallax barrier thing tomorrow...

Just an FYI, the iTunes store does not DRM music any more. Plus, they upgrade the quality to 256kbps. It is actually a pretty good deal.

I still use Amazon when I can, though, out of principle.

@yuriythebest: Well I can't really say if this DIY solution would be any better than iz3D, since I've never seen the iz3D. I know that my Zalman is still better quality than the DIY parallax barrier, but the DIY solution is still decent. I mean, there is a good amount of ghosting. If you look at the 1080P images I posted, you will see that there can be noticeable ghosting in extreme cases (ie the trees in the Resident Evil image). In other cases the ghosting is pretty low (for example in the UT2004 video I posted). And of course you are getting only half the resolution. But the colors are actually a little brighter since you don't have to wear glasses. For me it is mostly just a curiosity thing, and I like to tinker with stuff. If you enjoy tweaking and hacking stuff, then this will be a fun project. If you just want a top quality solution that works, then you need to spend the money and get something like Nvidia 3D Vision. Not sure what to tell you.

@PalmerTech: Yes, I know iTunes does not use DRM anymore. If they did then it would have taken me several days to convert my collection instead of just one day. But the M4A format they use is still not as universal as MP3 (for example, it won't work on Xbox 360), although it does at least work on the Android phones without a problem. But, like you, I would rather support Amazon just on principle.

I created yesterday a parallax Barrier myself following cyberealities guide, my monitor is a LG 22" 1680x1050 (similar to cybereality's monitor) and I used a printer 1200dpi. I coundn't find the dot pitch of my monitor so I used same as cybereality in my calculations. The result looked very good, I was really suprised from the quallity of 3d picture I got. It had some ghosting but it was ok.
I also tried galo's programm but it gives very strange results pattern looks very strange, the line were not in some places thicker and in than in other.
Finally I tried to make a parallax barrier for my android phone (vodafone joy). I used the same I created in photoshop a new image in the size of my phone's screen and I used the same pattern that I used for my monitor to fill the image but I reduce the scale of the pattern to 35% (I played around I bit with the setting before I found out that 35% scale gives me the best results). I get some nice depth with it but on so good as on my monitor. I'm not sure if it possible to get better results on a 2,8" screen.

@fildubek: Awesome man! I'm glad someone was able to replicate my results. Despite what some people might think, I'm not just making this stuff up. I also have plans to try this technique with my Android phone (and maybe an Android tablet at some point). The results aren't going to be as impressive as a monitor due to the limited depth possible on a small screen, but the 3D should still look good. I bet with a properly optimized pattern it could work nice.

Freke1 wrote:Found this:
...
looks good when he moves the film with his fingers.
How nice it would be if You could just buy some film to stick on Your monitor...

That would be nice.

@cybereality: I personally never had any doubts that it could work, since it seamed very logical and and you explain very good in your tutorial. I get the feeling that some people replied to your video on youtube without watching the video at all. Anyway testing it on a tablet sounds like a good idea many I will try it out when I get one.

fildubek wrote:@cybereality: I personally never had any doubts that it could work, since it seamed very logical and and you explain very good in your tutorial. I get the feeling that some people replied to your video on youtube without watching the video at all. Anyway testing it on a tablet sounds like a good idea many I will try it out when I get one.

Agree and this would be perfect for small devices but I think if you want a perfect no glasses experience the film/filter would have to be sold by the screen manufacture.

hello, im new here =)
I'm here because i read about cybereality. I'm really interested in having a 3d monitor. My monitor is 1280 x 800, i used galo's programm but it isn't working good for me... my dot pitch is 0'258 and i have an 1200 dpi printer... according to all i have read my patern must have 13 pixels in black and 13 px in white. i printed some parallax barrier but they are not working very well... i tried to create a patern using photoshop but i have never used photoshop and i'm really really bad at it. So... cybereality... could you post a page with some diferent patterns... in order to print them and try all of them? or instead.. could you give me something to start all this?

PD: lines are always spaced by same spaces??
PD2: sorry for my bad english, i'm spanish ^^

I think your barrier should be more like 12 pixels wide (or a little less than 12.1889764 to be exact). If you do 12 pixel of black and 12 pixel of white, it might work. If you read the tutorial again, I explain how to do this (I might need to go back and fix it up a bit, maybe its too confusing). Anyway, here is a 12px pattern. Just print this image in Photoshop without any scaling at all. It might be close to what you need.

wow! you were really fast! thank you! i'll try and post

thank you again =)

you were right! it is very close! it is not 3d yet, but it's the closest pattern i have printed =D thank you! I have one question: now i only have to try different patterns close to this one, right? how did you do that? you tried 17 px insted of 16? or what? I mean.. how do i print more patterns having this one?

PD: with the alignment test image i got blue-red (with your pattern) with the others i got red-blue so i guess it might be a little bit bigger... (your alignment test image is very useful) thank you a lot for all this =D i cant believe im having 3d in my monitor this week xD

You have to make a more complex pattern in order to fake a higher resolution. For example, you can have five 12 pixel lines and then one 13 pixel line. That would give you a barrier with the approximate width of 12.1666 pixels. The one you need is going to be close to that one (and it might be a good place to start). If you follow my tutorial I show how to create pattern files in Photoshop, its very easy.

well, couldn't he just scale it down slightly in photoshop's print properties? then it's all automagical, and he won't have to worry about 12/13 pixel lines and whatnot.

AntiCatalyst wrote:well, couldn't he just scale it down slightly in photoshop's print properties? then it's all automagical, and he won't have to worry about 12/13 pixel lines and whatnot.

I got strange results when I tried using the Photoshop scaling, but this was also back with my 600dpi printer so maybe 1200dpi will handle this better.

Wow, this sounds a bit complicated! I think it would be great it it could be done to create 3d glasses for next to nothing though! With the emergence of 3d televisions now, it would be really great to save some money on creating the glasses yourself, but only if they are up to par. I'm hoping that glasses will go down in price in a few years as the technology becomes more common place.

i got better results with the new pattern (5x12,1x13), thanks, it still is small, but it's very close, because i got only one line, blue-red. And at the center of the pattern it is white (or black) But i cant see the 3d image... Is this normal? should i be able to see 3d images with this pattern?

gamergal8292 wrote:Wow, this sounds a bit complicated! I think it would be great it it could be done to create 3d glasses for next to nothing though! With the emergence of 3d televisions now, it would be really great to save some money on creating the glasses yourself, but only if they are up to par. I'm hoping that glasses will go down in price in a few years as the technology becomes more common place.

Yeah, it is somewhat complicated. I am looking to find a method that is easier but I've just been busy. But I am not done with this, its an evolving project. If you are interested, I am actually sending out free 3D glasses. They are just the cheap paper red/cyan ones, but they work OK. Certainly a good option if you don't have a high-end 3D solution. Just PM me with your name/address and I will send them right out.

huevohuevo wrote:i got better results with the new pattern (5x12,1x13), thanks, it still is small, but it's very close, because i got only one line, blue-red. And at the center of the pattern it is white (or black) But i cant see the 3d image... Is this normal? should i be able to see 3d images with this pattern?

It is very difficult to get the perfect pattern. I might have printed over 50 tests just to get the right pattern for that video. So don't be discouraged if the first few are not right. Unless is is extremely close to the right size, then you are going to have trouble seeing in 3D. Also, try flipping the barrier around (so the printed size faces the monitor) and also try moving your head forward and back. That changes the way it looks. You will probably have to learn how to customize it yourself, as it takes a lot of trial and error.

Good Job Cyber

Unfortunately I have Transparency Film for Laser printer but I only have injet printers. I tried anyway but the ink make some sort of bubbles. I wanted to convert my old smartphone to a brand new stereo smartphone I'll have to buy special filter ^^

Yes, you must make sure you get the correct transparency film for your printer (inkjet or laser) and also read the instructions because you usually can only print on one specific side (usually the rough side) and may need to put it in the printer a specific way. Also, stay away from overhead transparencies, acetate transparencies, or anything else that doesn't specifically say its meant to be printed on by consumer inkjet or laser printers. Although other types may work, you might just waste your money if it doesn't print right.

Yes. I'll buy one of these tomorrow.

Did you try to madke a filter for your smartphone (if you own one) ? It could be interesting. Well you'll have to make your own software to watch your images/movies, but it could be really fun !

magestik wrote: Did you try to madke a filter for your smartphone (if you own one) ? It could be interesting. Well you'll have to make your own software to watch your images/movies, but it could be really fun !

Yes, I am thinking about it. But, like you said, it would also required writing custom software so it is a more involved project.

On a smartphone you can simply import photos and videos in vertical interlaced mode, it's not interactive but that's a good start to evaluate the technology. If you own an iPhone/iPod you can also directly buy the parallax barrier from GRilli3D without having to print one yourself, they also have images and videos in interlaced format on their site.

cybereality wrote:

magestik wrote: Did you try to madke a filter for your smartphone (if you own one) ? It could be interesting. Well you'll have to make your own software to watch your images/movies, but it could be really fun !

Yes, I am thinking about it. But, like you said, it would also required writing custom software so it is a more involved project.

I can help you with that.

Fredz> thanks for the information. But I don't have any Apple product

I managed to print my barrier for my smartphone ... It doesn't work :'(

If I move my eyes around my screen, there is some change but eache eye seems to view black and white line.

I'll have to print a new barrier !

I just noticed that if you search for "Parallax Barrier" on YouTube, a total of 11 of my test videos come up on the first page. The main $5 video is the first one, followed by the last big test I did in 2009. Out of the top 10, 5 are from my DIY solution. If you do the same search on Google 2 of my videos are featured for the video widget. Pretty impressive if you ask me. Though I am not so sure how many people search for the words "parallax barrier". Do you guys have any ideas for keywords I can use for my next video? I probably want to do something involving the Nintendo 3DS, since that will surely be popular in the coming months. Any other tips on how to improve the quality of the video would be helpful as well.

cybereality wrote:You cannot move your head left, right, up, down, forward or back not even by an inch. Although at that point it did sort of work. So if I tried really hard I could probably get checkerboard to work. I mean, I did see some 3D effect (with heavy ghosting).

I think an head-tracking SW could solve this issue.

cybereality wrote:

wuhlei wrote:I'd rather just buy the sheets. Is any one selling them?

I would sell them myself, except every monitor is slightly different. I would need a template for each specific model. I was thinking maybe we could all choose a good cheap 1080P display and use that as a base model. So I would buy that screen and perfect the pattern on it, then I could send people the working pattern. Obvious you need to buy the monitor yourself. The monitors I was looking at would be around 23" 1080P and cost around $150.

Could a fotography of the screen with a ruler placed on it help to determine parameters to create a suitable parallax barrier for remote users?
The user could also place on its screen a small, generic parallax barrier implementing different parameters, to be used as a reference by who will actually create the final p. barrier.

jumpjack wrote: Could a fotography of the screen with a ruler placed on it help to determine parameters to create a suitable parallax barrier for remote users?
The user could also place on its screen a small, generic parallax barrier implementing different parameters, to be used as a reference by who will actually create the final p. barrier.

Yeah, something like that could help, but you have to realize even a mm of inaccuracy can destroy the effect. So it is almost impossible to do this remotely (I would need the monitor in my hands to test). I still have some plans to make a product out of this, but I have to figure some things out first. I will probably just end up buying a bunch of cheap monitors to test with. So I can support all the popular models. Not sure when this will happen, but hopefully sooner rather than later.

This is a fantastic project, actually I found this site via Youtube, searching Parallax Barrier!

I'm amazed how well its worked out, has anyone tried this on an iPhone? if so please email me saj_12@hotmail.co.uk

You can buy a parallax barrier specifically designed for the iPhone here :
http://grilli3d.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hm, is there no way to create a "Parallax Barrier Creator Tool", where you input your LCD and printer geometry (maybe with tests), then print out some test patterns with different sub-mm adjustments, etc., etc. until the perfect one is found?

Cherry wrote:Hm, is there no way to create a "Parallax Barrier Creator Tool", where you input your LCD and printer geometry (maybe with tests), then print out some test patterns with different sub-mm adjustments, etc., etc. until the perfect one is found?

Yes, that is possible. Some members actually created tools like that (posted on the past 2 pages maybe). I didn't verify them, but they might prove helpful to you.

Ah, found it. Thank you!

I just made an online calculator for calculating the document and barrier widths, based on the supplied variables.
http://tinyurl.com/3we38kq" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cybereality, could you try to make some sort of guide around this? Basically you'd create a photoshop document at your printer's DPI, supply your screen height and this calculated width, and then fill it with an interlace pattern where the number of white columns would be the same as your horizontal resolution, and black columns the same PLUS ONE, so the first and last columns are both black. I have no idea of how you could do this, apart from drawing every line manually which is probably out of the question.

I've included the width of the barriers/gaps in pixels, don't know if that helps or not.

My original version actually used a Photoshop script that would create the barrier for you. Later I ended up doing it manually, just to have a little more control, but I could easily update the script. Just been really busy lately. I want to create a new tutorial that is much easier to do. I think the method I used is just too confusing for anyone to follow.