DIY Oculus Rift - schematics, instructions and build pics!

Post by **Bretspot** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:08 pm

Thanks for the feedback, yeah I'll have to see them in person first, but I figured, I can always scale the image down a bit, but yeah, it would likely be annoying.
If I put anything together, I'll post a pic.

Post by **Guygasm** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 4:00 pm

Not sure if this is old news, but if anyone is still interested in experimenting with the Razer Hydra I just noticed a student discount on their website. $79.99 (without Portal 2) but you do need access to a .edu email address.

Post by **Bretspot** » Sat Sep 29, 2012 12:17 pm

Hey 'yall,
So I picked up some 3x 2" magnifiers last night, I tried them with some images on my computer monitor scaled down and I think possibly the magnification isn't high enough, What is the relationship between magnification and screen size? Why is 5.6" usually used with 5x? Would a 4x with a 7" screen work possibly?
http://tinyurl.com/frys4x
I can get those at frys for 5$, but I don't want to waste money again. I need to find that program that lets you adjust the location and warping of an image, I guess back to the forums for more searching.

Post by **troffmo5** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:40 am

Good news:
http://sharp-world.com/corporate/news/121001.html

Post by **2EyeGuy** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:49 am

Display size: 5 inches
Number of pixels: 1,080 x 1,920 (full HD)
Pixel density: 443 ppi
Application: Smartphones

"Application: Smartphones"

they have no imagination. We could do much cooler things with it.

Post by **jaybug** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:05 am

Maybe one of the "exciting surprises" is that Oculus have procured a batch of these screens for the dev-kits.

I can dream, can't I?

Post by **MrGreen** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:41 am

5 inches is too small no?

The current prototype screen is what, 5.6"? And Dykus mentioned the ideal size would be something around 7" if I recall correctly.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 1:50 pm

Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!

I got my LCD in today, and I hooked it all up, but I'm having some serious issues.

See the image links below for how it's hooked up.

The first thing I noticed when I unboxed it and assembled it, is that the plug for the "button board" didn't fit the socket on the LCD controller board. It was 1 pin too wide on the connector, and this 1 ping was unoccupied. So, I cut of the unused socket on the connector and it fit fine.

I got my universal power supply, set it to 5V, and made sure the polarity was correct according the bottom of the PCB. I plugged it and, and the green LED on the button board comes on, the screen lines up, (like a smashed GameGear), and does nothing. Eventually, the LED on the button board changes to red, but the screen looks the same.

There is no apparent damage of the screen in any way, I think my problem is in a connection perhaps. Could someone who owns this board look at my images? I'm going to try to contact the eBay seller for his advise.

http://s14.postimage.org/g5zcaum41/2012 ... _46_35.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/kt5ecm9gx/2012 ... _46_50.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/lwpioku41/2012 ... _47_10.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/npsfcwfap/2012 ... _47_17.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/q8iprbqep/2012 ... _47_28.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/hvd0wnr75/2012 ... _47_35.jpg <--- THIS is the plug I cut the unused empty socket from, so it fits.

http://s14.postimage.org/h0v2od8q9/2012 ... _47_53.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/fn3ft29gx/2012 ... _48_19.jpg

Thanks!

Yoder

Post by **space123321** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:32 pm

Yikes - that does not look good.

As an FYI - I run my DIY Rift without my 'button board' plugged in... simply plug the unit in and it is up and running.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:36 pm

space123321 wrote:Yikes - that does not look good.

As an FYI - I run my DIY Rift without my 'button board' plugged in... simply plug the unit in and it is up and running.

That's actually what I tried first. It did that, so I plugged in the button board.

The stripes aren't always in the same place. You can unplug it, and plug it back in, and the position of the striped will have changed.

When I plug in the HDMI cable, it makes no difference on the screen, but the PC detects the display, and correctly sets the resolution.

I'm thinking maybe one of the LVDS pairs is wrong? I dunno - it doesn't seem possible to plug the LVDS connector in backwards either.

I'm at a loss.

Post by **space123321** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:49 pm

I am running mine via the VGA input - wondering if you try this to see if it is the HDMI connection?

Post by **zacherynuk** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:57 pm

Yoder808 wrote:Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!

Euurgh! Gutted; after waiting for it so long!

That to me looks like a badly programmed driver board / driver board failure.

Does the button board do anything ? - Does the screen flicker at all when input is assigned?

Where you from? - Perhaps somebody within cheap postal distance (or better) will have another board / lcd / cable to test with.

Where did you buy from ? Vitrolight have always been awesome with their support to me, but they seem gone now

- or perhaps just too busy building rift panels..

Post by **zacherynuk** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 3:02 pm

MrGreen wrote:5 inches is too small no?

The current prototype screen is what, 5.6"? And Dykus mentioned the ideal size would be something around 7" if I recall correctly.

5" could work - 11cm x 6.2cm - 5.5 IPD - it's pushing it for sure.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 3:13 pm

zacherynuk wrote:
Yoder808 wrote:Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!
Euurgh! Gutted; after waiting for it so long!

I know right. I just finished my 3rd foam board prototype/ski goggle mount too.

zacherynuk wrote:That to me looks like a badly programmed driver board / driver board failure.

Does the button board do anything ? - Does the screen flicker at all when input is assigned?

Nope. Nothing. The power button does shut it off and on though.

zacherynuk wrote:Where you from? - Perhaps somebody within cheap postal distance (or better) will have another board / lcd / cable to test with.

Oklahoma. Perhaps, I'd drive to troubleshoot the thing if need be.

zacherynuk wrote:Where did you buy from ? Vitrolight have always been awesome with their support to me, but they seem gone now - or perhaps just too busy building rift panels..

Yes, I bought it from Vitrolight. I haven't contacted them yet, in case I'm just a moron. I noticed his eBay store said he's away until October 7th. I'll send him an email. Mine didn't come with a power supply, I'm not sure if that's par for the course. I also have a jumper for power (3.3V 5V and 12V). I've tried all 3 at the correct voltage levels, but the panel behaves the same.

Thanks for the help guys!

Post by **zacherynuk** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 3:25 pm

Yes, I bought it from Vitrolight. I haven't contacted them yet, in case I'm just a moron. I noticed his eBay store said he's away until October 7th. I'll send him an email. Mine didn't come with a power supply, I'm not sure if that's par for the course. I also have a jumper for power (3.3V 5V and 12V). I've tried all 3 at the correct voltage levels, but the panel behaves the same.

Thanks for the help guys!

If it's a cheap multi selector PSU, make sure it has enough juice at 12v - often the cheap ones claim 1500ma but only supply <500ma at 12v ! Now you've said that I think you may make it work using the power of... power

If not - must be another one in all of Oklahoma! ask Cyber to put out an APB

Post by **3dvison** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 4:29 pm

Thought Yoder808 said he set it to 5v ? Should it be set at 12v ?

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:11 pm

3dvison wrote:Thought Yoder808 said he set it to 5v ? Should it be set at 12v ?

Out of the box, it was set at 5V. I tried it with my cheapo universal power supply at 5V, no joy. I then tried 12V set at 12V, and 3.3V set at 3.3V, same result. (although at 3.3V, it would 'kick off and on' every few seconds.) My cheapo power supply is rated for 1300mA, or 500mA USB.

I'm freakin' out.... No way my wife's letting me buy a replacement if I can't get this fixed or replaced.

Post by **3dvison** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:41 pm

OK.
Don't think this would be the problem, but Is it a barrel type connecter, and if so, is the polarity correct ?
It does look more like a cable problem.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:39 pm

3dvison wrote:OK.
Don't think this would be the problem, but Is it a barrel type connecter, and if so, is the polarity correct ?
It does look more like a cable problem.

I think it's correct. I'm afraid to try it backwards. My universal power supply has different tips, and each can be put on in any way. I've got mine setup for positive tip. I'll post pictures.

http://postimage.org/image/yi06r227f/
http://postimage.org/image/mvg2pxewb/
http://postimage.org/image/wu11ceobv/
http://postimage.org/image/iq5640h4b/
http://postimage.org/image/lli9avl4b/
http://postimage.org/image/dwq0cwa0b/
http://postimage.org/image/r4pe5u7jf/

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:45 pm

Here's my latest prototype. The next one (if there is a next one

) will be from black foam board. It's slightly modified, based from on the OP's PDF.

My phone took real turd pictures. Oh well, you get the idea.

Post by **android78** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:25 pm

do you have a datasheet for the actual display? The microdisplays I've played with in the past essentially have color data lines, a Hsync, Vsync and pixel clock (also blank and enable). It almost looks to me as if either the Hsync and Vsync are round the wrong way, or the clock and Hsync are round the wrong way, or one isn't connected. It may be worth a test, if you can isolate the data clock lines (h/v/clock) from the display and try disconnecting them one at a time and see which one has/hasn't an effect on the picture you are seeing.
More then likely one of the clock lines is just not connecting properly.

Post by **mushroomking** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:26 pm

I have been following this thread (also found via HackaDay if anyone cares), and am very tempted to build my own...unfortunately my OCD when it comes to proper aspect ratio rendering is preventing from jumping on the bandwagon.

I read on another thread that the ideal would be a minimum of 1080x1080 per eye with a 1:1 aspect ratio. Assuming one were able to source these smaller 4.8" and 5" screens, you could just run two side by side in portrait mode and for render them to 1080x1080 in windows.

end result is roughly the same width, with a usable area of 2160x1080

this is all assuming one can source these smaller 1080p units at an affordable price.

Post by **android78** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:37 pm

also, the disconnected leads on the power FET is normal since the drain is also connected to he metal tab, which is soldered to the board.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:42 pm

android78 wrote:do you have a datasheet for the actual display? The microdisplays I've played with in the past essentially have color data lines, a Hsync, Vsync and pixel clock (also blank and enable). It almost looks to me as if either the Hsync and Vsync are round the wrong way, or the clock and Hsync are round the wrong way, or one isn't connected. It may be worth a test, if you can isolate the data clock lines (h/v/clock) from the display and try disconnecting them one at a time and see which one has/hasn't an effect on the picture you are seeing.
More then likely one of the clock lines is just not connecting properly.

Here's the datasheet for the LCD panel - http://hgc41198.chinaw3.com/docs/HV056WX1-100.pdf

I'm looking for one on the controller...

Post by **android78** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:02 pm

how did you determine the correct pinout for the driver board? I guess you don't have a scope that you can use to see if you're getting the right kind of signals at the display end?

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:13 pm

android78 wrote:how did you determine the correct pinout for the driver board? I guess you don't have a scope that you can use to see if you're getting the right kind of signals at the display end?

No I don't have scope. I was also unable to find the datasheet for the board.

Guess I'll wait to hear back from Vitrolight.

Post by **bobv5** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:43 am

Carmack said that his Rift prototype needed slightly more voltage to work (5.2v I think). Might be the same problem.

Post by **Dycus** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 4:13 am

Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen.

Really narrows it down, eh?

If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.

Post by **zacherynuk** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:48 am

Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen. Really narrows it down, eh?

If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.

And I can confirm with both a similar DVI small board and the 7-in1 I use a 12v 1500ma - So it looks like your multi PSU isn't supplying enough juice.

Double and Triple check the pins on the polarity!! - And remember current is drawn, voltage is delivered - so you can up the A but NOT the V

Post by **Yoder808** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:58 am

Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen. Really narrows it down, eh?

If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.

Thanks for the advise! So, just to be clear... you're saying set the jumper to 3.3V, but supply it 12V (at at least 750ma)? I guess the jumpers don't exactly work like expected?

Regards,

Brandon

Post by **Yoder808** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:03 am

zacherynuk wrote:
Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen. Really narrows it down, eh?

If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.
And I can confirm with both a similar DVI small board and the 7-in1 I use a 12v 1500ma - So it looks like your multi PSU isn't supplying enough juice.

Double and Triple check the pins on the polarity!! - And remember current is drawn, voltage is delivered - so you can up the A but NOT the V

Is yours set on 3.3V on the jumper?

Post by **zacherynuk** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:19 am

Yoder808 wrote:
zacherynuk wrote:
Dycus wrote:Yoder - I've used that driver. It needs 12v DC, positive tip, at around 1A (You could get away with 700mA, though). Don't connect it backwards or you'll fry your screen's backlight driver (trust me, I'd know...). Make sure the driver's jumper is set to 3.3v. If it doesn't work after that, I'd say it's either a faulty cable, driver, or screen. Really narrows it down, eh?

If I had to take a guess, though, I'd say your driver isn't getting enough voltage. They can be modified to run off 5v, but stock they need at least 9-12v.
And I can confirm with both a similar DVI small board and the 7-in1 I use a 12v 1500ma - So it looks like your multi PSU isn't supplying enough juice.

Double and Triple check the pins on the polarity!! - And remember current is drawn, voltage is delivered - so you can up the A but NOT the V
Is yours set on 3.3V on the jumper?

On my small board, on the jumper block I have one jumper closest to the capacitor and next to it it is marked 3.3v - but I do not know what this jumper actually does. On this board the power into the LVDS cable come from a connector near the edge.
But on my large board, part of the power come from the jumper bank, from the pin marked 5v, and the other side to the connector near the edge.

I use the same 12v1500ma PSU's for each

Post by **Yoder808** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:39 am

Thanks zacherynuk! If it's not too much trouble, could you post pics?

Thanks for the help guys, I can see why this is such a great community.

Post by **zacherynuk** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:43 am

Yoder808 wrote:Thanks zacherynuk! If it's not too much trouble, could you post pics?

Thanks for the help guys, I can see why this is such a great community.

I'll be able to when back in a few hours... but my small board is not the hdmi one...

Post by **hle38** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:41 am

Hi Yoder808,

I have exactly same driver boards. I can confirm that power is 12v(my PSU delivers 1200mA and drive 2 driver boards). The jumper is set on 3.3v, I don't think it deals with the main input voltage.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Hle38

Post by **Dycus** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:04 pm

Yoder808 wrote:Thanks for the advise! So, just to be clear... you're saying set the jumper to 3.3V, but supply it 12V (at at least 750ma)? I guess the jumpers don't exactly work like expected?

Regards,

Brandon

Yes, just like that. The jumper sets what voltage the screen's logic board gets, which should almost always be 3.3v. The driver board itself has a few regulators, so it needs at least 9-12v to function properly.

So to be as clear as I can - the driver board should get a 9-12v input, 1A, positive tip, and the 3.3/5/12v jumper on the driver board should be set to 3.3v. That should work!

zacherynuk wrote:On this board the power into the LVDS cable come from a connector near the edge.

That's for the backlight. There are either three or two wires, depending on what kind of cable you get. One is 12v straight from the barrel connector, one is the PWM signal to adjust brightness, and the optional third wire is ground, and is redundant.

Post by **Yoder808** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:40 pm

Dycus, your directions are crystal clear, thanks! Thanks to everyone! I'll try this tonight.

Post by **android78** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 4:40 pm

wow... I hope that setting the jumper to 12v for the screen power hasn't fried its chips. trying to drive 3.3v circuit at 12v is usually a quick way to let the magical smoke out.

Post by **Yoder808** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:44 pm

android78 wrote:wow... I hope that setting the jumper to 12v for the screen power hasn't fried its chips. trying to drive 3.3v circuit at 12v is usually a quick way to let the magical smoke out.

Yeah, I fear that too. But it came out of the box set at 5V (with no instructions, etc), which is initially what I tried (with a 5V supply), then 3.3V. It behaved the same as it does now... I'm looking for a 12V, 1A power supply now.

EDIT: Tried it with a 12V 1A power supply, positive tip, same result. I think it was DOA, I'll see what Vitrolight says when he gets back.

Post by **zacherynuk** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 1:51 am

Yoder808 wrote:
android78 wrote:wow... I hope that setting the jumper to 12v for the screen power hasn't fried its chips. trying to drive 3.3v circuit at 12v is usually a quick way to let the magical smoke out.
Yeah, I fear that too. But it came out of the box set at 5V (with no instructions, etc), which is initially what I tried (with a 5V supply), then 3.3V. It behaved the same as it does now... I'm looking for a 12V, 1A power supply now.

EDIT: Tried it with a 12V 1A power supply, positive tip, same result. I think it was DOA, I'll see what Vitrolight says when he gets back.

Gutted for you

- is it Jianbo Wu you have mailed ? he has always come back very quickly...