What are you going to use?space123321 wrote:LOL - sorry! I am now onto version 3 of my HMD - will now be a more permanent solution getting away from the foam core sheets.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
What are you going to use?space123321 wrote:LOL - sorry! I am now onto version 3 of my HMD - will now be a more permanent solution getting away from the foam core sheets.
This is awesome, please keep us postedTheLostBrain wrote:Hey gents!
Had a bit of time over the weekend and decided to take a stab at this myself. Got the design done, nested into some virtual stock and the cnc toolpaths completed.. but have yet to cut 'er out lol. If get a chance may run it tonight.
I designed against the lenses Palmer recommend to rfurlan and using ~3mm birch ply for the housing construction material (10"x24" sheet from Michael's arts and crafts < $5).
Because I already had a double-ratcheted headband (OakTreeGroup, llc.) I went with a more traditional HMD 'look' (vs a strapped-ski mask approach).
Whole thing is designed to go together with a bit of hot glue and 2 small screws. In the end it has 3 main parts:
1) The outer shell (including top, sides and front (and mounting bracket even though it's adjustable))
2) The lens / nose assembly (consisting of lenses, mounting plate, nose and bottom)
3) The electronics-mounting board (which manages all electronics and wiring and is designed to slide in and out of the outer shell once the lens/nose assembly is removed).
Will take some progress shots and post for anyone interested and I'll go ahead and share the design files and cnc-toolpaths too once I build it and confirm there's no gotchas in the design.
Is that not a problem with your nose ? I removed them from the mounts because it was not possible to have them centered on the eyes in my case.TheLostBrain wrote:Here you can see the lenses Palmer recommend to rfurlan... Decided to leave them in their mounts in this particular design.
It is certainly possible but is hard to say for sure. If you want something that "just works" then it is best to wait for the real thing. I can only speak for myself but I think that for many of us, this isn't only about building a Rift but about learning more about HMD design in general.3dvison wrote:I know it would only be a guess.
But do you think a DIY RIFT, will be able to work with games and drivers that are being made for the Real RIFT (Non-DIY) ?
I know the DIY RIFT, is using different lenses than the Real RIFT, but do you think the DIY lenses are close enough to the real thing, to still look good with a Real RIFT's games and drivers ?
That is great to hear, 256k colors with the HV056WX1 is workable but not ideal. Is the resolution still the same?PalmerTech wrote:Slightly better lenses, and different screen. The Rift is going to have an even wider field of view than we have been showing, with better response and colors to boot!
Probably not out-of-the box but software is malleable, so it depends on how motivated you are. In the long run, if the Rift API/SDK becomes the accepted standard, anyone building a HMD is likely to aim for compatibility, be it by matching specs or through modified drivers. Likewise official yet modded Rifts will eventually drift away from the baseline specs and may require software mods too.PalmerTech wrote:These DIY Rifts will probably not work with Oculus Ready games, sorry.
Thanks to you Palmer, hopefully in a few years we are going to look back and remember you as the man who finally brought VR into mainstreamPalmerTech wrote:Super cool to see all these DIY Rifts pop up, though. Goes to show how simple it is to make pretty sweet HMDs! I think there have been more DIY HMDs in the past two weeks than the last several years combined.
I do hope the consumer Rift will be usable with more than just "Rift Compatible" games, as long as you can pump side by side into it I would say that a couple of options would be:PalmerTech wrote:Slightly better lenses, and different screen. The Rift is going to have an even wider field of view than we have been showing, with better response and colors to boot! These DIY Rifts will probably not work with Oculus Ready games, sorry.![]()
Agreed! MTBS3D - will soon be asking OR to pay for some bandwidth costs!PalmerTech wrote:Super cool to see all these DIY Rifts pop up, though. Goes to show how simple it is to make pretty sweet HMDs! I think there have been more DIY HMDs in the past two weeks than the last several years combined.
Hi!simmoi wrote:Here we go, had some time free.. got slightly motivated.. I hope to build into a ski mask soon~When i got it all hooked up, turned it on, looked in through the lenses and moved around, it was amazing.
I need more stuff to run. I'm not really hardware or software guy, hackerish/tinker dude.
I am experiencing teething issues like most others, will need to replace the lenses as using ultra optix 5x.
No tracking as of yet
You're talking about the consumer-Rift, not the dev one right? Are the dev kit specs final or is there a chance it gets "upgraded" compared to the prototype you've been showing?PalmerTech wrote:Slightly better lenses, and different screen. The Rift is going to have an even wider field of view than we have been showing, with better response and colors to boot!
jaybug wrote:Pretty sure he's talking about the dev kit.
That would be cool, I hope you are right jaybug.jaybug wrote:Pretty sure he's talking about the dev kit.
Looking great!!!TheLostBrain wrote: Couple Issues:
1) Weight! Although still very usable it's definitely heavier than foam board, etc by far. Think I may look into alternative materials and an even simpler design at some point because of this.
2) Angled back of head-mounting bracket needs just a bit more 'anglin' (that a word?) to hit that sweet spot for fit.
3) As Fredz mentioned...there is indeed a bit of nose interference w/ the factory lens mounts..so will likely redesign to avoid these altogether. Hell, may just cnc up another lens assembly specific to this configuration...something w/ larger diameters and cut-away nose area.![]()
I designed against the lenses Palmer recommend to rfurlan and using ~3mm birch ply for the housing construction material (10"x24" sheet from Michael's arts and crafts < $5).
As a software guy with little experience building real-world things, I am consumed by rapid manufacturing envyDycus wrote:Looks super sexy.![]()
I want to make some vacuum-formed ones. Or is somebody gonna beat me to it?
I found this book pretty informative and entertaining:rfurlan wrote:As a software guy with little experience building real-world things, I am consumed by rapid manufacturing envyDycus wrote:Looks super sexy.![]()
I want to make some vacuum-formed ones. Or is somebody gonna beat me to it?
Can anyone recommend a great book or site to learn the basic techniques used to prototype physical objects? (CNC, vacuum-forming, etc.)
Won't beat you to vacuum-formed... but I do have one of these that's been built and sitting in the garage for close to a year now.Dycus wrote:Looks super sexy.![]()
I want to make some vacuum-formed ones. Or is somebody gonna beat me to it?
Thanksrfurlan wrote:TheLostBrain wrote: Looking great!!!![]()
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You mention that it is a bit heavier than foam-board - but it is heavy enough to be an issue or are you generally happy with it?
Aw, lucky! I've wanted a 3D printer for a long, long time. 3D printer and CNC... all I have is a Dremel.TheLostBrain wrote:Won't beat you to vacuum-formed... but I do have one of these that's been built and sitting in the garage for close to a year now.Dycus wrote:Looks super sexy.![]()
I want to make some vacuum-formed ones. Or is somebody gonna beat me to it?http://www.ultimaker.com/
I've yet to play around with with plastic design but probably should as it's a much more appropriate candidate for housings than my CNC'd birch ply I suppose
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with
3D printers are awesome if you can afford a deposition printer. My limited experience with thermoplastic extrusion printers (the cheaper ones) is that they have very low yields - not only they are slow (6-8 hours for a small job) but most printed objects are flawed. It can also take 2-3 hours before you realize you will have to abort.Dycus wrote:Aw, lucky! I've wanted a 3D printer for a long, long time. 3D printer and CNC... all I have is a Dremel.
Hi! It worked very well, Looks great through lenses, edges are a little blurry (due to using ultraoptix lenses I think) but visual results were great without even tweaking !marbas wrote: Hi!
Glad to see my distortion test app being put to good use![]()
How does it look through the lenses? Are you able to tweak the values to get acceptable visual results?
As I've started working on a game idea for the Rift I have abandoned this project for now. But let me know If there is something I can do to improve the distortion test application.
Thank you for the links! Already ordered the book going through the learning center nowTheLostBrain wrote:I found this book pretty informative and entertaining:
http://www.amazon.com/Better-Be-Running ... 0979576024
It was written by the guy who runs this place I believe:
http://www.quickparts.com/Home.aspx?s_k ... nQodR1QAGA
...which also happens to have a learning center:
http://www.quickparts.com/LearningCenter.aspx
I'd suggest not changing your material (at least for a first trial) - and cutting out the centre of each panel to either leave a outline frame for each side (including maybe the front), or if you need more rigidity, leave a cross brace. Then cover the outside with something light fast (few layers of duct tape works). This should drastically cut down the weight, keep the rigidity, and save looking for more materialsTheLostBrain wrote: Couple Issues:
1) Weight! Although still very usable it's definitely heavier than foam board, etc by far. Think I may look into alternative materials and an even simpler design at some point because of this.
Now THAT my friend is an awesome idea!sellars wrote: I'd suggest not changing your material (at least for a first trial) - and cutting out the centre of each panel to either leave a outline frame for each side (including maybe the front), or if you need more rigidity, leave a cross brace. Then cover the outside with something light fast (few layers of duct tape works). This should drastically cut down the weight, keep the rigidity, and save looking for more materials
Cool find. I've got another project that is weight sensitive. How does carbon fiber compare to aluminum in terms of weight, strength, and ease to work with?TheLostBrain wrote:Also, if ever come up w/ a final design using sheets like this (vs 3d print, etc)... I think this would be an awesome material to do it in:
http://www.dragonplate.com/