Hi all,

This thread is for any advice you might want to share about viewing anaglyph movies but I wanted to start it particularly since I've had major ghosting of green/magenta 3d movies on my DLP projector - a viewsonic PJ503D. I whould classify it as unwatchable on the DLP even though it was good on my CRT and my LCD screens so what was the problem and what was the solution? Also, I'll bet others have had the same issue since other movies like Coraline are also green/magenta and I expect more to come. Anyway...

For a DLP projector:

1) Don't use "Presentation" mode, and
2) Use your computer to play the anaglyph DVD instead of a DVD player.

For some reason, the computer gives much less color-ghosting than my DVD player. It might just be color leakage in the composite cable. As for Presentation mode, the projector adds in some green to the image even if you fill your screen with pure magenta using Paint or another program. The way to detect that is to twirl a white pen on a string in your DLP projector's beam and see the colors that show up in the air where the pen is spinning. For a magenta screen, you should only see blue and red but Presentation mode adds some green to make the image brighter at the expense of color faithfullness. This means that for a green/magenta anaglyph, the magneta view will have some green in it that your "green" eye will see. Your green eye will see some of the image meant for only the magenta eye. In practice, it depends on the scene and so sometimes Presentation mode will be OK but from my test-run last night of green/magenta "Journey to the Center of the Earth", I recommend starting with Photo mode with brightness/contrast settings of 40/60 and adjusting from there. Other than green/magenta, I believe Presentation mode should be OK for red/cyan and yellow/blue or colortone.

There were still some scenes with bad ghosting but it was watchable and much better than with the DVD player. I even think that some scenes are very good after your eyes get used to it. Anaglyph has grown on me a little but I still prefer frame-sequential shutterglass.


Color calibration advice?
I've read that it's the glasses that need to match the display colors and you can't really adjust the display colors to match the glasses but watching the movie last night, lowering brightness/contrast did help reduce ghosting some to make a more solid image. I suggest pausing the movie at certain scenes and adjusting from there. You could try to use an anaglyph test image I made but I don't really have detailed instructions for use. Just try to minimize wrong-eye ghosting. I think it's more useful for comparing various glasses you might have instead of actually using it to adjust your display. I'ld hate to have people use it and feel like they've wasted their time with it. Anyway, I put it in another thread since there's one about calibration already:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4449&p=31717&hilit=calibration#p31717


Other advice? That's up to anyone else to add.

--- iondrive ---

use "HT026-bright red" and "HT141-bright blue" or "HT116-medium blue green" Lee filters.

Lol^^.
A very good tip though. I'd recommend (HT)026-Bright Red and (HT)116-Medium Blue-Green because the 116 gives more green color (equals a more natural colorperception) than 141. They're both very good for anaglyph with an overall very minor (if visible) ghosting.
Contact your local discostore for light and sound and they should be able to easily get them (if they not already have them).

This is what the Lee filters look like (very little ghosting):

All credit goes to Likay

hey thanks guys,

I see there are many sellers on ebay with Lee filters too so I may try them someday.

Any suggestions for Green/Magenta filters?

Magenta vs. stacking red and blue:
I had another question: "do you think it's OK to stack red and blue filters to get magenta?" but now I feel confident that a magenta filter would be better since the red filter would block some blue unnecessarily and the blue would block some red. A magenta filter would just block green.

I took a look at the Lee website and it's pretty nice. You can see the transmission charts for the filters you suggested. Just click on the color sample and it shows you the data. Here's a good starting point

http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/advice/technical/

and here's their "DJ Pack 1" which has both the 166 and the 026 (HT stands for high temperature, by the way, in case you have eye-beams like Cyclops

http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/prod ... 94373C018/

You can see the red and blue-green have basically no overlap.


As far as green/magenta filters go, my first instinct is to go with the Saturates Pack:

http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/prod ... 98E7ECECA/

although they don't have a labelled magenta in that pack, they have a mauve that might be OK.


It looks like the best filters are the glass ones but I guess I'll just use the ones I got from "Journey.. Earth"
Under the "Glass Dichroic Filters" section, V98 Lavender 8 looks very good for magenta:

http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/prod ... 710CD8EC9/

but the M56 Magenta 6 also looks good, and then there's the G28 Lime 8 for green.


I know that in order to really know how good these are for you, you would need to try them and not just look at the transmission charts but it's interesting and I think it can be helpful as a starting point if someone wants to go on a quest for better green/magenta or other. I guess one would also want to match the graphs of your displays elements and your eyes to the filters to have them all work together. OK, whatever. bye.

Do you think there's any hope for a petition to get Hollywood to make only red/cyan instead of green/magenta? I agree with Likay (from another thread) that it's a better choice.

I've tried lee-filters with green/magenta and unlike for anaglyph there aren't so many suitable colors. It works decently but i can't remember which colorcodes i used. The datas are probably not good anyway because i tried with a distorted "my bloody valentine" rip.
I recall the image was a tad darker experience than anaglyph but not close to dark as colorcode.
Lee-filters also works for colorcode but since the blue filter needs to be really dark for correct filtering you also need to dim the amber color with either a darker color (mustard yellow or brown) or simply a lighter color combined with a darkening sheet... I guess this is why colorcode glasses has such a dark "amber" lense as well....
There are probably more filtermanufacturers and if someone else feels like experimenting the others like lee should be able to provide a testsheet with all colors for a cheap penny. Myself i was "lazy" and ordered a testsheet of existing filters in stock from a local sound- and lightstore.