Can the 3D Vision2 kit work with "not 3D" 120Hz TV ?

[nrv]

Hi,
My LG OLED 55C9 TV is able to display up to 4K 120Hz, but it's not a 3D TV.
After setting the display to 1080p/120Hz, I can execute the 3D assistant and select "generic CRT monitor".
The 3D test almost works, but with a lot of ghosting.

Correct me if I'm wrong but here is what I understood after my first readings :
if I select "generic TVHD DLP 3D" in the 3D assistant, it enables a frame packing 3D (The 2 images are sent together at 60Hz in a sort of 3840x1080 resolution, and the 3D TV knows it has to display half the image half the time). But my TV is not 3D and it just doesn't work.

On the opposite, if I select "generic CRT monitor" in the 3D assistant, it enables a frame sequential 3D, at 120Hz, with 0 delay between the image and the corresponding signal on the emitter. At 120Hz, the TV shows 1 image every 8.3ms.
According to reviews, input lag on my TV is around 13ms.

So I guess my TV and my glasses are not synchronized, and that maybe 40% of the aperture time of each glass I see the wrong image on my screen.

Is there a way to sync my glasses and my TV by delaying the emitter of 13ms ?

[whyme466]

If you get this to work, you will be the first person. The TV is unlikely to recognize a frame-packed signal, since LG no longer supports 3D TV (and 3D formats), so sequential is probably better. Note that LG made passive, not active (shuttered), 3D TVs when they were being manufactured. Display lag should not impact operation (only an issue for controller/keyboard control, with larger lags like 60ms), since it is just a pipeline delay.

Syncing may be an issue, since TVs do not share sync signals, nor sync to external signals. I encountered this fatal issue when I unsuccessfully tried to create a Surround setup using 3 portrait-mounted active 3D TVs years ago.

If you have something like an Index VR headset, so might consider using HelixVision (search Steam) instead...

[russellk]

I tried something similar on a C7, plus I've been trying to get 3d vision working on my DLP projector and sadly it's a fail all around so far.

Check out and read the subject I started on Blurbusters, it might fill in some gaps:

https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopi ... 34b2e82d9b

There was a utility on the old forums to manually alter the glasses timing, but this didn't help with my DLP issues, due I suspect to Display blank/Vsync/Timing issues.
Actually I don't know if that utility was ever posted anywhere else, or if the author is around any more... It's something we should preserve.

Good luck!

*edit* Added the custom timing utility. This is simply lifted and shifted from the thread on the old forum, unfortunately I can't remember the authors name so credit to him but use at own risk.
If you can find the old thread it might be useful to post a link or put the relevant info here.

[nrv]

Thank you for this link. What a high quality explanation !
To sumarize, I will have ghosting because of the shutter glasses "response time". While the glasses switch, both eyes can more or less see the screen at the same time.
The solution is either "Black frame insertion" or "Strobe backlight" on the screen to make the screen dark while the glasses switch. That's the lightboost of my asus vg278H.
Unfortunately on an OLED TVs, there is no "Strobe backlight", and my TV does not allow black frame insertion at 120Hz input.
So I will have some ghosting no matter what.

My first 3D kit was 3D Vision 2, which introduced lightboost. But before version 2, there was 3D Vision version 1, with no lightboost, with more ghosting than version 2, but I believe - I hope - it worked well enough.
So I still wonder if the input lag of the tv, which is 1.6 frame long, is not my main problem. It would explain why I see R and L frames inverted, and why I feel like the screen refreshes during the time of full aperture of my glasses.

[nrv]

According to this post, the utility is useless if "CRT monitor" is selected.

---------------------------------
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/fo ... mentPage=3
rajkosto
Generic cases like 3DTV Play (HDMI Frame packed, Checkerboard, Line interleave), DLP-link, "Generic CRT" do not even use the timings defined in these tables.
---------------------------------

So I would have to use the edid override or/and CRU to make the 3DVision driver see my TV as a compatible 3D device, and then use NvTimingsEd to correct the timings.

OK but is there a "compatible device" which accepts frame sequential 3D ? (All the .inf I have found are for 3D compatible devices which handle 3D Frame packing)

[3DNovice]

...

[russellk]

Thank you for this link. What a high quality explanation !
To sumarize, I will have ghosting because of the shutter glasses "response time". While the glasses switch, both eyes can more or less see the screen at the same time.
The solution is either "Black frame insertion" or "Strobe backlight" on the screen to make the screen dark while the glasses switch. That's the lightboost of my asus vg278H.
Unfortunately on an OLED TVs, there is no "Strobe backlight", and my TV does not allow black frame insertion at 120Hz input.
So I will have some ghosting no matter what.

My first 3D kit was 3D Vision 2, which introduced lightboost. But before version 2, there was 3D Vision version 1, with no lightboost, with more ghosting than version 2, but I believe - I hope - it worked well enough.
So I still wonder if the input lag of the tv, which is 1.6 frame long, is not my main problem. It would explain why I see R and L frames inverted, and why I feel like the screen refreshes during the time of full aperture of my glasses.

No problem! It's actually a complicated issue, because you also have to take into account how and where the panels are refreshed too. There are different methods, Sample and Hold and rolling scan, plus on many LCD screens the pixels have different response times at different parts of the screen, that's why even on some 3d vision certified displays you can get ghosting at the top or bottom but not in the middle. OLED pixel response times are miniscule, but I think they use rolling scan which probably means there will be a visible bar moving up or down the screen:

https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?t=3388


Anyway, I don't pretend to fully understand it. Well, I read up on it then forget some of it each time

I'll add a few other comments in no particular order:

1. I'm sure your problems are nothing to do with input lag
2. If the images are completely inverted then turning the glasses upside down will reverse the effect. Also there are software methods to 'swap the eyes' which achieves the same thing.
3. Try using the EDID of a 3d vision supported display, not a frame packed mode. Start with something that is 1920x1080x120Hz.
4. Use the blurbusters 'ufo' check to make sure that you're getting the full 120 frames with no frame skipping.
5. On my dlp projector, I tried quite a few different EDIDs, I just picked them based on resolution. Once you've picked a certified display then you can use the tool to alter the timings, so it probably doesn't matter that much which one you pick. Maybe the author of the tool did fully decrypt/decode what those timings that are in the registry are but I've never seen it posted publically.
6. Also, on my DLP I could get 3d vision to kick in and work, but I had sync drift issues that appear to be unresolveable. Again, this isn't linked to input lag at all.
7. The 2019 9 series OLEDS were supposed to support BFI at 120Hz and it was one of the features LG touted before release. Unfortunately at launch the feature was missing and LG never really explained why, except that there were quality issues and they removed the functionality. If you go over to AVSFORUMS and do some searching you can read more.
Maybe they'll add it to the 2020 OLEDS in which case I'll get a bit excited again!

[nrv]

Does someone know the EDID of a 3DVision supported display, not in frame packed mode ?

[Dom]

Heres the edid from my monitor the .inf and .bin from monitor asset manager.

http://www.cnszb.publicvm.com/files/3dvisionBenQ.zip


Hope it helps

[3DNovice]

...

[nrv]

to russellk : Thank you for your links. I've read so much !
to 3DNovice : Thank you for this file. It helped me identify an old monitor compatible with 3DVision.

Using the EDID of a 3D monitor, I always get the red warning when I use the "attempt to run Stereoscopic 3D in non-stereo display mode, please change to an acceptable mode. See documentation for acceptable Stereoscopic 3D modes".

Using the EDID of a Projector : All those I tried have a strange command sequence : L_OFF, R_ON, R_OFF, L_ON. I could not understand what the timings do with that sequence. I tried to change the sequence and it was worst.

Even after hours trying differents timings, I'm still not sure about what they do.

So I chose the ViewSonic VX2235wm EDID : VSC591E. It's an old "not 3D" monitor. It has a logical command sequence : L_OFF, L_ON, R_OFF, R_ON.
Since Left and Right glasses were inverted, I modified the command sequence to : R_OFF, R_ON, L_OFF, L_ON.
With that sequence Y is the "open" duration of the glasses, W and X delay the start of that "open" time.
I get the same results increasing W or X as long as I remain in middle range values, but that doesn't work with extreme values.

I then modified the timings with NvTimingsEd to W=3800, X=3900, Y=3000 to get a not too dark image with "acceptable" crosstalk on the top and bottom.
The timings W=3800, X=4774.17, Y=2079.92 give a little less crosstalk, but the image is darker.
The timings W=3800, X=4774.17, Y=1500 give even less crosstalk, but the image is really too dark.

It seems the tv does not display the full image at once, but rather uses a rolling scan.
That means I can't have the full left eye image on the screen, and the full right eye image after that.
I always get part of the left eye image, and part of the right eye image at the same time, which generates crosstalk and distortions.
So I played with timings to get the center of the screen matching the glasses.
I kept a small band with crosstalk at the top, and a larger band at the bottom, considering the bottom will more often be occupied by "0 depth" elements.

The result looks good, at least "good enough" to watch a 3D movie. But I haven't watched a full movie yet.

[russellk]

Thanks for all the feedback! I think now we're back on a proper forum this is the kind of info that is going to be important going forwards.

[Abwezi]

Coming to post my findings, this thread has helped me quite a lot. I have an LG C1 and when attempting to use at 1440p 120hz even with high BFI for 3D Vision ghosting was still occurring too much to look great. So I followed the steps above at first. Changed my monitor ID to the viewsonic listed above. Removed all other modes from my EDID and changed the mode for the profile in NVTimingsEd to match and my adjustments were taking effect. For me I copied the first set of values that nrv landed on in his post above. Then I changed Y to exactly half of the Z value matched to refresh rate, and X to around 200, set BFI to Medium at 120hz and it looks great basically no ghosting. I have slightly darker strips on the top and bottom though

[b4thman]

I have an LG C9 TV and I am newcomer to these EDID things (and my english is not very good). Where can I download the viewsonic VX2235wm EDID, and how can I change my monitor ID without doing anything wrong?.

[3DNovice]

...

[b4thman]

Yes, G-sync was updated the 1st day my tv was connected to the internet, and I have received another TV update in the last days. I will take a look at all of your information.Thanks.

[treeeddd]

Some of my find on non 3dvsion monitors, are that pretty much anything will work as long as it fits into some basic requirements of the monitor. To reduce the crosstalk, baclight scanning is needed. Pretty much most gaming monitors will have some sort of backlight scanning, but make sure to check on rtings.com for which model has it working well. I just recently test 3d vision on the samsung odyssey G7, and it doesn't need backlight scanning, so it can get bright and provide almost no shutter motion for smoother motion. The G7 has a very fast refresh pixel transition as well.

From what I found is that freesync monitors will provide the option for generic crt 3d in the stereocopic display setting. I found they work without driver tweaking, but the 3d glasses themselves has to be turned upside down to get the correct sync. I guess you can take the glasses apart and swap the wires though. If a monitor doesn't detect as generic crt compatible, then you can use an hdmi splitter to get it to detect with the one that does detect.

Sometimes you may need to change the EDID with Custom Resolution Utility by ToastyX, of a 3d display listed in NvTimingsEd to be able to change the timing to get to sync properly. It's a bit tricky to figure out, I wish there were a guide to it when I started with it.

Make sure you find a gaming monitor with fast pixel transition. TN screens are still supreme, but IPS gaming monitors are getting closer now. A good backlight scanning is still needed. Yet I don't know how the odyssey G7 can provide good 3d effect with backlight scanning. That's a major plus in 3d vision gaming experience. I'm hoping OLED monitors and TVs will be able to do the same.

[3DNovice]

...

[treeeddd]

So the reason why I did the hdmi splitter was that CRU did not override the EDID, because the the option of choosing the generic CRT in the stereoscopic menu wasn't there. If the monitor was compatible then the generic CRT would show, and the CRU would be able to change to a different monitor ID. So I took a closer look at the regedit of the display, and it wasn't changing like it suppose to with CRU restart tool. So if I manually change the EDID in the EDID_OVERRIDE submenu of the monitor being use, it will finally override with the CRU restart tool, and show that it is a 3d vision monitor. So this will allow me to do further testing at higher refresh rates beyond 144hz over displayport. No more hdmi spllitter solution, except that you'll need to setup the resolutions in CRU to make it work with NvTimingsEd.

dx11 games using a 3DMigoto community fix can have the eyes swapped via d3dx.ini
1 = Reversed 3D Vision

Thank you. I will try that. So no way to swap eyes for DX9 games?

[ZePRiNCE]

You can look for "3D Vision Eye Swapper".

I used it for my LG 3DTV. But I don't need it anymore, I think 3DFixManager has the same feature.

[3DNovice]

...

[treeeddd]

If you are looking to buy a gaming monitor for 3d vision, note that monitors with an overdrive feature will cause crosstalk artifacts in 3d vision. I've tested 2 LG monitors, the 27gn800 and a lg 27 TN 240hz FHD monitor. In gameplay, the artifact is quite wide with more 3d depth so it isn't as noticeable, but with less depth the artifacts can be seen. Probably should avoid LG monitors for 3d vision. I can say that the Dell S2716DGR is better in 3d vision performance, but it doesn't get very bright, the image is soft, limit to 120hz 3d vision. It's still a very fast TN panel. I'll let you know if I can find a monitor that works good with 3d vision.

[3DNovice]

...

[russellk]

If you are looking to buy a gaming monitor for 3d vision, note that monitors with an overdrive feature will cause crosstalk artifacts in 3d vision. I've tested 2 LG monitors, the 27gn800 and a lg 27 TN 240hz FHD monitor. In gameplay, the artifact is quite wide with more 3d depth so it isn't as noticeable, but with less depth the artifacts can be seen. Probably should avoid LG monitors for 3d vision. I can say that the Dell S2716DGR is better in 3d vision performance, but it doesn't get very bright, the image is soft, limit to 120hz 3d vision. It's still a very fast TN panel. I'll let you know if I can find a monitor that works good with 3d vision.

Would you say the G7 is the best you've found so far? There was another poster on here who documented thier attempts to get the G7 working and seemed fairly pleased with the 3d vision results, but they were still seeing some crosstalk I believe.
I have a G9 and I've never mananged to get satisfactory results, but I know it's a slower panel than the G7.

If you have any tips or advice for the custom glasses timing, please let me know.

[treeeddd]

What's make the G7 very different from the rest is how they implemented their overdrive feature that has practically no crosstalk with 3d vision, what's even more impressive is that no backlight strobing is needed to get a clear 3d image. I'm only just getting back into 3d vision after putting it aside since 2014, because now the hardware is great for it. I'm into hardware tech, so this just got me even more excited to hear about the G7's capabilities from the post on this site.

From my limited testing, IPS monitors need an overdrive implementation in order to get the pixels to transition fast enough. As far as I can tell, it's still difficult to achieve TN panel speeds without some ghosting involved which will show up as crosstalk in 3d vision. And there is still a need for backlight strobing to cut down on the crosstalk, even then how good the backlight strobing will depend how well it's implemented from the manufacturer.

So probably biggest advantage of the G7 is that it doesn't require backlight strobing for 3d vision to work, even with baclight strobing it doesn't seem to do anything but darken the screen. Without the need of backlight strobing, freesync can be enabled, brighter screen, and less eye strain. I was able to do 160hz with 3d vision, limit testing still, but it was as smooth as lower refresh rates of 120 or 144hz.

From what I can tell so far, the crosstalk is from the overdrive feature, and it's very limited to low 3d depth. It won't be there with gameplay, but will be noticeable in playing video/movies. The 3d effect may not be as good as with the best 3d vision monitor, but it's certain good enough like 90% there.

I'm really interested in the Samsung Q90B miniled TV, it also has a very fast VA panel like the G7, 144hz, and can get much brighter. I guess samsung's overdrive implementation is pretty good. They are coming out with miniled monitors too, so have to wait and see the reviews on those. I still have yet to play with the timing on the G7, or even had a chance to play games on it. I'm familiar with the tuning process now, so I'll post some settings if everything works out.

[treeeddd]

I just tested out the MSI QHD Quantum DOT Optix MAG274QRF-QD. This has really nice 3d effect, blacklight strobing is good, good motion refresh rate, the colors are great. Also, no overdrive crosstalk. There's crosstalk at the top of the screen, but none at the bottom. Meaning the timing of glasses needs to be shifted up slightly, and having to introduce some crosstalk at the bottom. This is common for monitors due to the refresh rate.

However, it does have image retention when something stays on the screen too long. I didn't find it too bad, as it went away quickly. I think this is a common issue for this type of panel as well. I didn't have any sync issues with the glasses with the default glass timing settings. So far I like this over the TN panels, and the odyssey G7. Still limited testing, only did it at 2560x1440 120hz. Didn't need to flip over the glasses, and no edid edit to get the generic crt 3d vision mode.

06/20 Edit: I did some more testing on this monitor, and it didn't turn out great. Couldn't get rid of the crosstalk on the top, further more the screen gets pretty dim with blacklight strobing. I guess the refresh rate is too slow, need rise/fall times closer to 2ms. The odyssey G7 can get that low. Oh well, was hoping the blacklight strobing would clear up the crosstalk.

EDIT 0 6/27: I got some good results by lowering the monitor resolution to 85hz with minor crosstalk at the top and bottom. Still could turn on blacklight strobing. The 3d effect looks good in the middle of the screen. So I guess IPS can do it, just need to find one that has good lower refresh rate timing and BFI that can go to lower hertz.

[russellk]

Thanks for the updates! Hopefully there's still a modern screen out there that's as good as the PG278QR.

[treeeddd]

Thanks for the updates! Hopefully there's still a modern screen out there that's as good as the PG278QR.

Hey no problem! Display tech is something I've been interested in for a long time now, just finally getting back into it again now that things are getting more interesting. Now that I know what to look for in a monitor, I found some IPS monitors that should be able to meet the requirements of 3d vision. I'll post something if those will work out.

The PG278QR panel is definitely the fastest out there still. I think newer TN monitors are coming out to be even faster. All I want is a bright 4k monitor with little to no crosstalk for 3d vision. I think the gigabyte M28U or the asus VG28UQL1A might just be it.


EDIT: I was playing with the timing on my LG 27GK750F, I tried turning on freesync and turned off the backlight strobing, to my surprise the crosstalk wasn't that bad and could be tuned out with the NvTimingsEd tool. The brightness improved as well as the image quality and colors. I was running it at 1080p 144hz. So it's something to consider, no need for a blacklight strobe if the panel is fast enough, which is obviously the case with TN panels.

But don't get he LG 27GK750F, too much overdrive artifacts. Alternative of this panel is the Acer Predator XB272, or just get a QHD 3d vision monitor and just turn off the backlight strobing.

[treeeddd]

I finally started playing with 3d vision on the odyssey G7, as I knew it was going to be a pain in the ass to get it to work. It has a micro sync problem that won't go away no matter what I tried. It's not perfect, but it's alot better than what I was expecting. The good thing is the micro sync issue isn't there if the timing is off in some way to the monitor default timing. 120hz would have looked even better but I couldn't get it to work due to the micro sync issue. I was able get 144hz to work, and with adaptec sync turned on. There's going to be some crosstalk at the top, but can be tuned further to try to remove it. I spent hours on this, I'm just glad it finally worked out worked out. Forget IPS panels, they are too slow. Look for gaming TN panels that are well tuned such as the Benq Zowie series. Probably going to be my next panel to test with.

Anyways here my setting for the Samsung odyssey G7 32 inch, the 27 inch may be the same or not. It's looks good in 3d vision. Just be aware there may be some quality control issues with this monitor. The odyssey neo G7 and G8 just came out, so might want to wait to see how good those ones are.



EDIT 6/25: I figured out what the micro syncing was, it's a frequency timing issue that is off by 4 thousandths of hertz that has to be adjust between CRU and nvtimingsed. Sometimes you have restart the CRU tool so the syncing can reset itself or just relaunch the game until the crosstalk is cleared. There isn't any crosstalk once you get the settings right in nvtimingsed, but there is slight overdrive shadows that appears as haloing. The 3d image is great, the curve monitor doesn't really matter with 3d vision, but the larger screen size is nice. This is definitely the monitor to get for a 3d vision monitor upgrade, and it's what I've been waiting ever since. Of course, you'll need to understand how to fiddle around with the timing in order to make it work, but it's totally worth it. It makes me really want to get the neo G7 or G8 now, but I'm going to wait until the price comes down in a year or 2, or see the reviews on it first.

If you need help setting up this monitor, post a reply.

[spin1]

You can use Custom Resolution Utility by ToastyX to simply change the display id.

It was reported on the old forums that sometimes it would not work correctly.

But if it does, it would show up as that display in the Nvidia Control Panel.

Here's a list to try. You might try the Acer H5360, it was an early model that does not seem to have the restrictions in place, that seem to be on later displays.

List of 3D Vision Ready hardware.xlsx

I used Toasy CRU and changed the display ID of my Samsung Odyssey G7 to DELA0D1 which is the ID of my Dell S2716DG. I then hit OK and then OK again. Nothing happened though. It doesn't look like the monitor or Windows tried anything. The Nvidia control panel still says Samsung, not Dell. I'm trying to get 3D working on my G7 monitor as others have.

[treeeddd]

Ok. I just posted in the other thread on how to change it. You definitely need to get the stereoscoptic 3d tab in nvidia control panel to be selectable in order to get to the next step.

[spin1]

Ok. I just posted in the other thread on how to change it. You definitely need to get the stereoscoptic 3d tab in nvidia control panel to be selectable in order to get to the next step.

Hi. OK, I just installed the most recent firmware for my Samsung Odyssey G7 (v1014.1). I also installed NV driver v452.22 via Nvidia Driver Changer Tool since that driver officially supports the Odyssey G7 (later, I'll install v425.xx since that's what I normally use).

The enable / disbale 3D button is available to use in the NV CP but the only 3D vision device available is Discover "3D Vision ".

I went to the link you sent and downloaded a monitor INF that someone uploaded for their BenQ monitor but Windows Device Manager driver installation still won't let me install it because "third-party INF does not contain digital signature information...After rebooting Windows with digitial signature disabled, it worked. Then I rebooted again and NV and Windows think I have a BenQ monitor. The problem is now my screen is limited to 1920 x 1080 (no 2560 x 1440) and my refresh rate is limited to 120 (no more 144 and 240 Hz). Does that seem right? If so, where do we go from here?

NV CP 3D Vision tab allows me to enable 3D Vision on a monitor now. It says "BenQ 120Hz 3D LCD"...

I played a DX9 game (rFactor 1) in 3D. It works with 3D V but the double image is messed up. It's not really crosstalk, it's more just both eyes' image look all mixed or something but I'm happy to report it at least works on a basic level so far

[treeeddd]

NV CP 3D Vision tab allows me to enable 3D Vision on a monitor now. It says "BenQ 120Hz 3D LCD"...

So far so good, you are on the right track. You can find a QHD monitor INF like the PG278Q(R) or even the DELL S2716DGR. you can create your own INF from a monitor program. It comes with the 1440p resolution, but CRU can create those resolutions as well. It's not totally lost with the BenQ INF you've just installed, you can create custom resolutions with the Nvidia conrol panel as well.

So now you pretty much have it all set up ready to go. Create some resolutions with CRU so that you become familiar with the values to put in. Those values can be found in the customs resolution created from nvidia control panel, and those resolution values can be found in NvtimingsED.

So far I've only have working NvtimingsED profiles for 120hz at 1080p and 1440p, because it's very time consuming to fix the micro syncing issue. Also, from what I notice, the 3d effect is better with the lower frequencies. Setting it at 120hz works with powerdvd 19 as well, which other frequencies won't. I will work on 144hz profiles later.

That's it, all you need now is the profiles I've created. Will post them later.

[3DNovice]

...

[treeeddd]

Ok, finally got the profiles for the monitor:
1080p
08700000200880078107A000B10720007D043804390445003C040500 9D8601008BFF00000600000000E1000003040102


1440p
14C30000A00A000A010AA000310A2000FA05A005A1055A00A4050500 9E860100D00101000600000050DC000003040102


These profiles should be good, you won't need to change anything unless you want to experiment with it. Once you get those profiles under the correct monitor ID (AUS27B1), then save it by overriding the two files for nvtimngsED (may want to back up the orginals first). If you get micro syncing of the monitor, you'll need to adjust the frequency refresh rate of both the CRU and nvtimingsed. It's very fine tuning so you'll need to figure that out with trial and error. The other issue is that it won't always sync up perfectly, you may get some crosstalk, if so then just relauch it until it syncs up good enough.

It's been a long time, so the instructions might be slightly off, the program is free.

Pretty awesome program, glad it came in handy after all of these years. Here's my INF profile of my monitor, copy it to notepad and rename .txt to .inf.

Code: Select all

[Version]
Signature="$WINDOWS NT$"
Class=Monitor
ClassGUID={4d36e96e-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}
Provider=%MFG%
DriverVer=7/28/2021, 1.0.0.0
;CatalogFile=YourSignedCatalogFile.cat

[DestinationDirs]
DefaultDestDir=23

[SourceDisksNames]
1=%DISC%

[SourceDisksFiles]
;YourColorProfileFile.icm

[Manufacturer]
%VENDOR%=EDID_OVERRIDE,NTx86,NTamd64

[EDID_OVERRIDE.NTx86]
%PRODUCTID%=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install, MONITOR\AUS27B1

[EDID_OVERRIDE.NTamd64]
%PRODUCTID%=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64, MONITOR\AUS27B1

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTx86]
DelReg=DEL_CURRENT_REG
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg, MODE1, DPMS
CopyFiles=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64]
DelReg=DEL_CURRENT_REG
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg, MODE1, DPMS
CopyFiles=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTx86.HW]
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64.HW]
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg]
;Base EDID
HKR,EDID_OVERRIDE,"0",0x01,0x00,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0x00,0x06,0xB3,0xB1,0x27,0x45,0x36,0x58,0x43,0x29,0x1F,0x01,0x04,0xB5,0x46,0x28,0x78,0x3B,0x43,0xA5,0xB1,0x4C,0x47,0xA6,0x25,0x10,0x50,0x54,0x2F,0xCF,0x00,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x06,0x74,0x80,0x18,0x71,0x38,0x2D,0x40,0x58,0x2C,0x45,0x00,0xE0,0x0E,0x11,0x00,0x00,0x1E,0xB9,0xBC,0x00,0x50,0xA0,0xA0,0x55,0x50,0x30,0x20,0x35,0x00,0x80,0x68,0x21,0x00,0x00,0x1A,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xFD,0x0C,0x3C,0xF0,0x67,0x67,0x62,0x01,0x0A,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xFC,0x00,0x4C,0x43,0x33,0x32,0x47,0x37,0x78,0x54,0x0A,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x01,0x2E

[DEL_CURRENT_REG]
HKR,MODES
HKR,EDID_OVERRIDE
HKR,,MaxResolution
HKR,,PreferredMode
HKR,,DPMS
HKR,,ICMProfile

[DPMS]
HKR,,DPMS,,1

HKR,,PreferredMode,,"1920,1080,120"
[MODE1]
HKR,,MaxResolution,,"1920,1080,120"

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg]
HKR,"MODES\1920,1080,120",Mode1,,"103.0-103.0,60.0-240.0,+,+"

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles]
;YourColorProfileFile.icm for non-sRGB displays

[Strings]
MFG="EnTech Taiwan"
DISC="Monitor EDID Override Installation Disk"
PRODUCTID="AUS LC32G7xT (AUS27B1 EDID Override)"
VENDOR="AUS"

[spin1]

Question: Will the monitor INF I use affect 3D or even 2D general use in any way beyond just making NV think I have a 3D monitor? There are a lot of back-end things going such as timings we'll be editing but possibly other stuff as well that we won't adjust (or don't have access to) and if the NV driver is doing back-end things with my monitor which are made for another monitor than can that bring up any problems? Loss of image quality? Stutters? Colour profiles? How Windows and programs "talk" to and behave with the monitor? Etc.?

For example. I just went into the NV CP and created a custom resolution to get 1440p (120 Hz) back. The 1440P looks very poor, worse than 1080P and nothing like 1440p with the default G7 INF. Is the NV CP applying the 1440p "back-end" settings it would apply as if I truly was using a BenQ rather than a Samsung G7? If so, then what about when using 1440p with, say, an Asus PG278QR INF. Yes, 1440p will be available without using a custom resolution since the PG278QR is a 1440p monitor but all the back-end stuff (timings and whatever other sorts of wizardry is used) will be setup for the Asus PG278QR hardware, not the G7 hardware...

P.S. I don't know where to continue from where I left off. Applying a custom 1440p resolution makes my G7 monitor look worse than 1080p upscaled to a 1440p screen. This tells me simply entering in custom values for the wrong monitor's INF will give us all sorts of problems since the hardware we have is not made for that INF...

[spin1]

Here's my INF profile of my monitor, copy it to notepad and rename .txt to .inf.

Code: Select all

[Version]
Signature="$WINDOWS NT$"
Class=Monitor
ClassGUID={4d36e96e-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}
Provider=%MFG%
DriverVer=7/28/2021, 1.0.0.0
;CatalogFile=YourSignedCatalogFile.cat

[DestinationDirs]
DefaultDestDir=23

[SourceDisksNames]
1=%DISC%

[SourceDisksFiles]
;YourColorProfileFile.icm

[Manufacturer]
%VENDOR%=EDID_OVERRIDE,NTx86,NTamd64

[EDID_OVERRIDE.NTx86]
%PRODUCTID%=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install, MONITOR\AUS27B1

[EDID_OVERRIDE.NTamd64]
%PRODUCTID%=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64, MONITOR\AUS27B1

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTx86]
DelReg=DEL_CURRENT_REG
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg, MODE1, DPMS
CopyFiles=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64]
DelReg=DEL_CURRENT_REG
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg, MODE1, DPMS
CopyFiles=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTx86.HW]
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64.HW]
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg]
;Base EDID
HKR,EDID_OVERRIDE,"0",0x01,0x00,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0x00,0x06,0xB3,0xB1,0x27,0x45,0x36,0x58,0x43,0x29,0x1F,0x01,0x04,0xB5,0x46,0x28,0x78,0x3B,0x43,0xA5,0xB1,0x4C,0x47,0xA6,0x25,0x10,0x50,0x54,0x2F,0xCF,0x00,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x06,0x74,0x80,0x18,0x71,0x38,0x2D,0x40,0x58,0x2C,0x45,0x00,0xE0,0x0E,0x11,0x00,0x00,0x1E,0xB9,0xBC,0x00,0x50,0xA0,0xA0,0x55,0x50,0x30,0x20,0x35,0x00,0x80,0x68,0x21,0x00,0x00,0x1A,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xFD,0x0C,0x3C,0xF0,0x67,0x67,0x62,0x01,0x0A,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xFC,0x00,0x4C,0x43,0x33,0x32,0x47,0x37,0x78,0x54,0x0A,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x01,0x2E

[DEL_CURRENT_REG]
HKR,MODES
HKR,EDID_OVERRIDE
HKR,,MaxResolution
HKR,,PreferredMode
HKR,,DPMS
HKR,,ICMProfile

[DPMS]
HKR,,DPMS,,1

HKR,,PreferredMode,,"1920,1080,120"
[MODE1]
HKR,,MaxResolution,,"1920,1080,120"

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg]
HKR,"MODES\1920,1080,120",Mode1,,"103.0-103.0,60.0-240.0,+,+"

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles]
;YourColorProfileFile.icm for non-sRGB displays

[Strings]
MFG="EnTech Taiwan"
DISC="Monitor EDID Override Installation Disk"
PRODUCTID="AUS LC32G7xT (AUS27B1 EDID Override)"
VENDOR="AUS"

OK. I did that. NV CP now detects monitor as Samsung G7 in the "change resolution" section but an "Asus 3D/GSYNC LCD" in the 3D Vision section. I then opened up a game but it looks pretty much the same as 3D V with the BenQ INF in that it looks like both left and right eye images are going in both eyes or something...

EDIT: Nevermind, I forgot I still have to do the Toasty CRU and NVTimings stuff. At first I thought that could all included in the INF.

UPDATE: After applying the two long strings of numbers and letters to NVTimings, and double checking all the values are the same from your pic, I pressed apply, OK, and then exited the program. Am I supposed to click "To NVStress.dll"? The reason I ask is because NV 3D still hasn't changed. Both images seem to still be displaying at once, also, both individuak eyes have tons of ghosting / crosstalk. I then restarted my PC but still no difference. 3D looks identical to when we first started... The only thing that's different is that now the game shows the famous red writing message "attempting to display 3D on a non-stereoscopic monitor blah blah blah". I don't think it showed that before (but I'm not absolutely 100% sure).

[treeeddd]

In NvtimingsED, make sure you create those profiles under AUS_27B1. There should already be profiles in there that can just be edited for 1440p. You can just check if the long string of numbers matches up in the encode/decode section. Try not to type it, just copy and paste it if it's different. For 1080p, create a new profile in there. Once done, click "To NvStress.dll", back up the originals just in case, then override the 2 files to save the settings.

The read lettering means the frequency set in the monitor is off from the nvtiminged frequency, that's why I've included the profiles in the pictures so that they match up. Just become more familiar with those tools, they are needed to fix the syncing of the glasses to the monitor.

Also, for 1440p frequency, I put 120.02hz, change it to 120.04hz. There's still going to be some micro syncing issues but is reduced slightly more. I still need to play with it some more, because I still get micro syncing.

yeah, so just make sure the NVtimingsED profile is AUS_27B1, that's what needs to be edited and saved for the timing of the glasses to be changed. You can copy the AUS_27B1 to something else as a backup profile for reference, copy the new profile name to something like AUS_27B2.

[spin1]

In NvtimingsED, make sure you create those profiles under AUS_27B1. There should already be profiles in there that can just be edited for 1440p. You can just check if the long string of numbers matches up in the encode/decode section. Try not to type it, just copy and paste it if it's different. For 1080p, create a new profile in there. Once done, click "To NvStress.dll", back up the originals just in case, then override the 2 files to save the settings.

The read lettering means the frequency set in the monitor is off from the nvtiminged frequency, that's why I've included the profiles in the pictures so that they match up. Just become more familiar with those tools, they are needed to fix the syncing of the glasses to the monitor.

Also, for 1440p frequency, I put 120.02hz, change it to 120.04hz. There's still going to be some micro syncing issues but is reduced slightly more. I still need to play with it some more, because I still get micro syncing.

yeah, so just make sure the NVtimingsED profile is AUS_27B1, that's what needs to be edited and saved for the timing of the glasses to be changed. You can copy the AUS_27B1 to something else as a backup profile for reference, copy the new profile name to something like AUS_27B2.

Yes, I used AUS_27B1. It only showed 2 resolutions, the 1080p and 1440p. I clicked edit for each one then copy and pasted the long codes for each, clicked decode, made sure all the settings were identical to your pics, then hit apply. The only thing I didn't do was click "To NVStres.dll". By the way, I edited the 2 profiles (one 1080p, one 1440p) that showed up in NVTimingsEd (under the AUS_27B1 profile of course) rather than create new ones. Is that OK?

Once all said and done, will this still allow me to use the Samsung G7 in 2D mode to it's fullest potential such as 240 Hz, G-Sync (g-Sync compatible), HDR, etc. etc.? If not, should I create a dual-boot version of Windows with one version setup with all the default timings, EDID, INF, etc. of the G7, and then a 2nd one just for my 3d gaming?

UPDATE: I clicked on "To NVStress.dll", saved the 2 files and overwrote the original ones. NVTimingsEd game me a message saying I should most-likely reboot. I did. Started the game, this time no red-writing nor green 3D Vision writing...but it looks exactly the same as before. No change
Also, I put in 120.04 Hz yet Windows says 120.02 Hz and the G7 monitor keeps saying 240 Hz in it's OSD. NVTimingsEd says 120.04 though.

[treeeddd]

Editing the profiles is fine too. Everything should work he same for the other resolutions when playing in non 2d, except the HDR due to the custom INF. In CRU tool, the entire can be delete to revert back to the original EDID. To play in 2d mode, as long as you have the resolutions that support higher refresh rates create in CRU tool or NCP, you can uncheck the stereoscopic 3d tab in NCP to play in 2d.

Dual booting could be good to have one with the latest nvidia drivers while playing in 2d. Everything should work with the 3d drivers for 2d gaming except HDR mode.

Yes, click on "To NvStress.dll", it all will be save and the timing of the glasses should be changed to the ones in the profile. The microsyncing may occur, take note it if it syncs up or downward, then you may need to increase the frequency of the nvtimingsed to the next thousandth decimal number.

I'm going to have to see if I can get other frequencies working to get rid of the microsync issue. The frequency at 120.04hz on nvtimingsED seems to be where it's most reduced.