Thanks for the reply inveni0.
Is they're anyone out there that can maybe walk me through how to make a barrier in Photoshop CS5?

There can't really be another solution than trial and error. To print a parallax barrier that is an exact fit for your screen given a specific viewing distance you need to know the exact thickness of the glass and its refractive index. But the only value that is available from the manufacturers is the dot pitch (and often incorrectly even), the other values are never advertised.

Illustration :

Well I guess I'm buying some black ink then! Can someone please give me a nice photoshop breakdown....please!!!!

There is a tutorial here: viewtopic.php?p=55961#p55961

I know its a little confusing, but maybe you can make some sense of it. I hope to have an easier method at some point but I'm not sure when that will be ready.

Going to implement the ideas in 3d Editors it will give right answer why some time picture going be mixed


This Project of imaginary 3d world with parallax barriers how (left eye - right eye)

http://www.mediafire.com/?c284shpk8c3p9c7
just use http://www.anim8or.com/main/index.html " anima8tor" to open the file







Result :
1 ) all barriers were same width .
2 ) the closer barrier to each eye center position should be exact above the other image or pixel should be hidden
3) Creating The Barrier shifting method its the distance should each barrier shifted left or right from the
each eye center position which is 90 degree .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MA8a1gV3 ... e=youtu.be

Just i liked to share knowledge maybe i be wrong

thanx

ahmed Turki
United Arab Emirates

cheers

Very cool.

Great job here i wonder how to make a aligment picture for 1366 x 768 coz my monitor is an acer g195hqv and only supports this
this awesome calculator gives my correct monitor width and height
here

Hey twin78! Welcome to the forum.

Have you tried my tutorial already? I know its a little complicated, but its worth a shot.

Yeah Cyber reality i tried it you explain real good but its not enough to make an alignment picture written like left right for (oops not 1366 its 1360x768
Thank you for reply

i was able to do one like this: would it work?

Hello, I have 1366x768 res.(0.252mm dot pitch). I already made parallax barrier (5.95ppb, but with 12px) with 600dpi printer (i can't afford better right know) and there is very close 3D sense (there is depth, but ghosting when two images are more separated). My brother gave me some clue how to find right interpolation:

firstly i chose 9 lines with 12px and 1 with 10px. 12x9 + 10=118, and on the other side 5.95 x 2 x 10=119. These are not equel, so i must calculate more. And there is formula (x is unknown value here): 118 + 6x = 119 + 5.95x ; at the end x = 20 , so 118 + 120 = 119 + 119
After this, we get match: there must be 20 lines (118 and 119 is already 10 lines on each case, and plus 10 lines we get from the formula (because 20/2=10)), 19 for 12px and 1 for 10px) because with this calculation there is 238 on each side! Can 19 lines 12px and 1 line 10px fool photoshop to reduce 6 to 5.95ppb?

So is this right direction or big misunderstanding?

@twin78: That test image looks OK to me. You probably just need to work on the barrier further.

@ddadovic: If 9 x 12px + 1 x 10px is close, then just further adjust it. For example if you need a larger barrier then times the pattern by two and just ad one pixel. So that would be 18 x 12px + 1 x 10px + 1 x 11px. You can do the same thing but make it one pixel less. Hopefully that will help.

Thank you very much!
I totaly skipped some important details from previous pages!

Hey! I've been trying to replicate the Parallax Barrier tutorial but haven't met with much success after more than a month of tweaking. My screen's resolution is 1366 x 768 too, with a dot pitch of 0.2512mm. The required barrier width would be around 5.935 pixels. Using a 600 dpi printer, I tried a 6 px barrier followed by a 5px black - 7 px gap barrier. Crashed and burned both times...

Referring to the tips on messing with the odd barrier line here and there to average things out-- by my calculations, I could do 14 lines of 6 px with 1 line of 5px; totals to 89, which is close to 5.935 x 15 = 89.025. Or I'd need 29 lines of width 6px and 1 line of 4 px to get a total width of 178, close to 5.935 x 30 = 178.05 px

@Cyber: I noticed you said that when calculating the interpolation required, the total number of lines needs to be even. That's why I have the two options above. Why's that though?

@ddadovic: Have you had any luck with the interpolation method?

@saldy23: Well, after printing in local copy store I think I got series of 9 lines of 6px and 1 of 5px on my sheet literally, without fooling the printer to change 6px to 5.95px, probably because I saved file to PDF format (not printing directly from photoshop), and then go to print! When I put barrier sheet to screen, on every ten lines first and final are bolded or something like that, but looking closely everyone is same.

Now, I must wait to get new sheets (inkjet's, to get rid of copy store's depending)... Even like that, there is 3D depth but not without constantly shifting of sheet left-right to find perfect...

@saldy23: The pattern has to have an even number of lines or it won't tile correctly.

Thanks Cyber!

But I'm confused about what you said, Ddadovic. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the interpolation method meant to fool the human visual system and not Photoshop? I just thought it was more likely that our eyes would not be able to perceive the minute difference in line widths and resolve it as lines of some average width.

Either way, sounds like you're having way better luck than I am Please may I know what software you guys use to create the base image? I just use this naive method where I take a stereoscopic pair and interleave it column by column to get something like the image attached.

@saldy23: The point of the interpolation is to produce lines that are more precise than the printer resolution can handle. In order to print a barrier using whole pixel values and no interpolation you would need a printer that could do around 15,000 dpi or something crazy like that (which obviously isn't available). Although Photoshop and other programs can do the interpolation for you, I found the results were not as good as doing it manually. However its possible there is an easier method, I still have to test some things.

Also, that image looks OK for a test, though its probably better to use the black/white left/right image as has been posted. This is because that picture of yours is mostly blue (with very little red component) which means it will be difficult to test sub-pixel mis-alignments. But the format looks OK.

I did try your Alignment Test Image, but the closest I got was this...

So I just wanted to know if I would be able to achieve some sort of depth perception even with this sorta close barrier, but I'm not seeing anything with the test interleaved image I showed you in my last post. Was wondering if the base image wasn't good enough as well...

PS The vertical bands you see in the picture are not apparent when I'm viewing it normally, the lines are quite even. Must be my camera

Sorry, putting up a slightly better picture

Yeah, thats really far off. You need to adjust the pattern more, and it may not even be possible with your printer. Whats the DPI on that printer?

I've been using a 600 dpi library printer. I send the command with all the parameters set to achieve maximum quality but I guess the library systems override all this to print in Economy mode. I've tried scaling everything up 4 times to make thick barriers but that doesn't quite work out either. Guess I need to hunt for a better printer huh?

Pretty much. I had similar results with my old 600dpi printer (slightly better, but still).

Hi ppl,

i'm a newbie, sorry if i ask but i can't go forward, what you mean with:

"5) Select a 16px x 1px area on the left side of the image." ?

i don't have very much to select, i see only a small line in the middle.

Can someone explain me this point a bit easier?

Thx a lot

You may have to zoom in to select the area. Also, disable "snap to guides", "snap to edges" and all the snapping stuff. You should be able to select an area that is 16 pixels wide and 1 pixel high. Make sure the canvas you are working with is the correct dimensions. I used 32 pixels by 1 pixel in the example, but yours my be slightly different based on your screen. Hope that helps.

Thank you

i've solved the problem with zooming the image

again thank you.

Will this work in AMD 3D DLP Checkerboard, or only Vertical Interleaved?

No, this is just for vertical interleaved. I did try some experiments with checkerboard and it didn't work too well (too much ghosting).

Thank for reply.

I want to make a Parallax Barrier for my dell inspiron 1420, 1440x900 resolution, screen 14.1, and have a EPSON WorkForce 520 printer. I have an estimated ppb of 11.9565354, and using Photoshop to do 7 lines of 12px and then 1 line of 11px to get 11.875. But If I add one more pixel to the 11px line and made that 1px 50% black less to get a 50% gray pixel, will that work to something like 11.95 or 11.975?

Hard to say. Each monitor is slightly different, so I would say just experiment with it.

i i am newbie to this but i want to point out that instead of using close values like 15.98 then rounding up why cant i use actual ppi settings i mean my asus moniter manufacturar lists my moniter having pixel density of 96 dpi (same is shown in passmark test) & given that i have printer with dpi of 1440 dpi that gives me 1440/96 = 15 ppb. what i want to point out is that instead of changing units now & then & rounding off the no.'s wouldn't it be great to use ppi & dpi units as these are standerd units for disply.

You use the value that has more significant digits, always use the value with more significant digits. You end up with more accurate results in the end, which will help you get the right interpolation pattern in fewer tries since you're starting off from a closer point. The universe doesn't magically change just because you did some math differently

Well the thing is, the barrier does not exactly match the width of a pixel. This is due to the fact that there is a piece of glass between the barrier and the display panel. Also you need to take into account your seated distance and possibly the IPD between your eyes in order to get the perfect parallax barrier. So its not just a matter of looking up the reported specs of the monitor.

why i can not see this attachment? "ZM-M220W_Parallax_Barrier_Pattern.png" ? any idea ?

Its there, its just really small so you can barely see it. Go to this page and just do "save page as" and it should work:

download/file.php?id=792

I finally did it I think on a 22' tv. Does this look ok to you?

Yeah, that looks pretty good. Not perfect, but even my mod wasn't perfect.

Have you tried it with any games or videos yet? How is the 3D?

Yes it works good. a bit colorful sometimes, but works. There's some ghosting though... mainly in dark scenes where u see lights and stars.

I kind of forgot about this after trying a print once and failing miserably, I was reminded of it when I found the leftover trasnparencies while cleaning, figured I'd try again.

I'm having a bit of confusion with my printer. (DeskJet D1560) It doesn't specify the physical DPI, the only option above 600x600 is maximum DPI, which says black render DPI: 1200 color input DPI: 1200 Color output DPI: 4800x1200-optimized DPI. I can't find any detailed offical documentation on the DPI because HP.

I do have another printer, a Lexmark p4350, ( http://www.amatteroffax.com/xPC_Lexmark_P4350 ) but again, I'm not sure what the physical and optimized DPI is, and with neither I have no idea how to make sure it's printing the max physical DPI without doing that "optimization" BS. I think it's 2400x1200 based on the link in the parentheses, but how do I know if 2400 is the vertical or the horizontal resolution? Another thing is, how do I get past the arbitrary margins and print edge-to-edge?

FYI, monitor I'm doing this too is 1280x768, approxomately 10 1/8 " tall, 14" wide.

Sometimes they consider each color as adding to the resolution (which is why the color dpi will be 4 times the actual black resolution). For that HP it sounds like it may be 1200dpi for black, which should be enough to do this project. The Lexmark also sounds like a 1200dpi resolution. I does 2400dpi max, but it depends which direction it goes in and which direction you need to print the barrier at. For example, if the 2400dpi is the horizontal dpi, and you want to print the barrier vertically, then you can only effectively use 1200dpi. But test it out, it sounds like one of these printers should work.

I have to play cut&paste with the sheets anyway, I might as well use the highest resolution I have available to me, I just don't know what it is. I suppose I'll just try with my HP for now, I don't actually have a black cartrige in my Lexmark right now, just a photo and a color. I suppose I shouldn't have too much of a problem, the pixels on a monitor just above 720p are a lot bigger targets than the 1980p monitors most people seem to be using.

Still wish someone around here had a wide-format printer though so I could get it with one sheet >: Alas, ( and I believe I said it before ) only place is Staples with a 600 dpi wide-format printer.

I should have picked up that wide-format printer I mentioned before from the garage sale when I had the chance, not sure why I chose to get a pizza instead.


Also, fk. I just put up the test image on the monitor I was going to convert, and it's already all messed up, it looks like like the examples of overscan on Wikipedia. Stupid VGA.... maybe I can get it pixel-perfect somehow first, or else I'm already out on this project, because I can't do it on my main monitor. ;-;