If you use the color charts as a reference, you should be able to tell if the pattern is too big or too small. That will at least help you see which way to go.



That printer says its 1200dpi, which should be enough. Its probably just a matter of finding the correct pattern. I had a lot of trouble with this myself, and mostly it was a trial and error procedure (over like 2 years). Make sure to also try changing your distance from the monitor (move forward or back) and try flipping the sheet around (so the printed side faces the monitor or vice versa). I am going to try to see if I can find an easier method. Some people here have posted some formulas and programs that might help you find a better pattern (just check the last 4 or 5 pages of this thread). You might want to try some of the stuff they suggest.

i just had an opportunity to try this out on my netbook, and i got a working pattern in just 3 prints(thanks cyber, those color charts really helped )! I really need some kind of spacer behind it though, because i have to get it 2-3 mm up off the LCD surface, and it's just a pain trying to get it flat by taping it to the bezel. I guess cyber's monitor is better for this, since he can just put it straight onto the display surface, and the internal distance to the actual LCD panel just magically makes it work.

I'm getting terrible ghosting right now btw, but that's mostly because my ink cartridge is running on fumes. The first few prints were better, but back then it just said "Ink Low". Now it says "Cartridge Empty" and has to be sweet-talked into printing a page. Still works though

Awesome man! Maybe I have been lucky with the Zalman. I have not tried it with any other monitor yet. You can try inserting a blank transparency sheet in between the barrier and the monitor, but you will lose some quality.

Well, considering I'd need at least 10 sheets, a solid spacer is more realistic if i want to see just about anything through it. right now the bezel gives me the perfect viewing distance, so I'll probably try a 3mm thick piece of acrylic or something.

I was looking into building a more permanent fixture for the sheet, and acrylic seemed like the way to go. Its pretty affordable.

Where i'm working now, we have printers that take 36" rolls.. Perfect for a 72" 16/9 screen!

Nice!

Hi , is this possible to buy a "Parallax Barriers"

At the moment, no. But I am looking into options for turning this into a product.

Thanks for this exelent information

Actually, I _will_ try this, once I have my computer back. I'll also try and get my hands on a couple different kinds of Anaglyph glasses, and hopefully purchase the full iZ3D driver. x3

Wow, is my printer's DPI really as high as I said there? It's a HP Deskjet D1560.
It is, nice. http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/Te ... =c01371151
48k x 12k optimized? I don't trust that, sounds like scaling. It would be using black anyway, and black only says 12kx12k.

I figured I would call up Staples and see what their printer's specs are, because I know they do prints for people.

Let's see... so I would try a couple different patterns on one page, then tweak ( if needed ) the one that worked best and make a full page of that, right? Couldn't I cut it down to 2(extremely lucky) to 5 or so prints by making pages with a range of patterns, then make another range page of just between the two closest ones, kinda like calculating a square root by hand?

I hope Staples's printer is high enough DPI and can handle.. was it Super B? sheets, to cover my whole monitor with one sheet. Issa 21 inch, if you didn't get that from the part number.

I don't know anywhere else around here that does prints, though. One of my parents might have access to such a printer at their jobs, I guess. It'd be hell getting them to do it right, though, or even getting the right information about the printer. "What's the printer's model number? Uhm... tch tch tch... Lexmark."

Also, just to clarify. If you need to add or subtract a pixel every so many rows, you add or subtract to a black bar, and all the clear spaces are the same? Or is in the opposite? Or is it one for adding, and the other for subtracting, and if so which way is it? n_n;;;

Edit: Or, Cybereality, maybehaps I pay you, you mail me a sheet with a bunch of rows of the patterns in the ballpark range for my monitor, I tell you which one, and you send another of just that pattern, or another range sheet of just ones a lot closer to it for further tweaking? Just looking at sheet sizes, I would think it would be feasibly to fit 10 or 15 testably-sized rows on a sheet; theoretically every sheet of a range of patterns brings you a power of ten (or however many rows there are) closer, right?

Also, that's kind of one way that you could sell these without having premade customs for every monitor. It does require at least two sheets to be mailed per person though. Still, it sounds like $10-$30 ought to cover your material costs and then some and that plus the $40 of the unlocked iZ3D driver seems, to me, like a nice balance between anaglyph and the "professional" solutions.

You could get buy with charging more for having to mail more range sets, especially multiple "final" sheets, though I think you could probably save money and fit the range transparencys in a standard envelope by cutting them up, since only a relatively small chunk needs to be tested at a time to find the right one anyway, right?

Heck, I could see people being willing to pay you just for the first one or two personalized "ballpark range" sheets for their monitor and printer, to get them nice and close to where they need to be for the final pattern. I would. I'm lazy. x3

Still, even only counting the final materials, you should probably edit the title of that video if you can. $5 is misleading, expecially since the unlocked driver isn't free, even if a trial of it is. ;p


Or are my ideas off of reading the thread totally wrong and useless? x3

Yeah, you are on the right track. I actually did something similar, basically printing out 5 or 6 patterns on a sheet at once. This did save ink and paper, but still very time consuming. I don't think it would make sense to try to trouble-shoot this through the mail. I'm sure people would pay for the supplies, but the project was just very time-consuming. I'd like to pick it back up again, and come up with a better solution, but I have been very busy. But the idea is out there, and I've proven it works. Its just maybe not as easy as I initially made it out to be.

And the $5 thing is true. The final sheet I used in the video only cost a few dollars. I did not factor in the cost of the 3d driver, or the printer, or the ink, or the computer I worked on, or a license for photoshop, or my electricity bill, my rent, etc. But maybe it was a bit misleading.

Anyway, I do have plans to make more of this in the future, maybe sell pre-made sheets. Stay tuned.

Yeah, I will.
I can't wait to get my PC back so I can start trying stuff out. It's gonna be longer than I thought though, they don't even have the thermal paste that was the reason I brought it in, so it's gonna be ordered. x.x

I'm really looking forward to trying all this different stuff. whet my pallet with as many of the different methods as possible, you know? Anaglyph is nice, but it just seems like... I I like chocolate ice cream, but plenty of times I would want to try something else instead of sticking with the same.

I honestly use anaglyph sometimes just for kicks, and its really not as bad as most people think it is.

I can get one of these for $15, but I dunno if I should trust it. The only DPI setting I see is 5760 x 1440... optimized. Nothing else, just an "optimized" DPI. If that's legit though, it would be a lot better for printing a barrier. Expecially if I could find one or two of the so-called "panoramic" size transparencies...

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/cons ... y=Products

Edit: Ohay, the one Cyber was using is an Epson. Not the same one by far, but still. Guess I should get it. Then again, the black ink will cost as much as the secondhard printer itself... decisions, decisions.

Nah, won't get it. I'll get by with my 1200 dpi printer once the transparencies I ordered come in. Have other things that want for that money. Sorry for the pointless post.

1200dpi should be enough. I used an Epson with the 1440 resolution, which helped, but I bought it mostly because it could print the big sizes.

Whoo! My transparencies came in.

Printer's too loud to do stuff right now though. Soon, though.... :{>

Please use imagesetters/platesetters (CTF/CTP) to get it perfect

Hello everyone !
This is my 1st post on the forum as I found some days ago. I just did a search on "parallax barrier" after the fact I've read about a new filter being commercialized by some company in order to get 3d on a simple LCD screen. I couldn't believe a simple sheet could make 3D but I wasn't aware of this parallax thing ... now it's obvious !

I'd like to thanks everyone who were active on this thread. Especialy cybereality, I read every post you made (in fact I read all the thread), and it's obvious you're a generous person, I admire that and thanks to your persistence over the past 2 years, I've been able to get 3D on my screen in just 2 days !

I got a lot of questions in my mind :
I just bought a new printer (the old one was ... old), that's a HP 1050A, it's credited as being a 1200x4800 DPI, but after some research I read this resolution only goes for color mode, but the B&W mode only does 600x600 DPI ... question is, am I limited to the 600 DPI in this project or is it possible to print in black by using the colors and the higher resolution ?

As I said, the 3D effect works, and I think it's as good as it should be, the depht looks really nice. The problem is that there is so much ghosting. Also, the barrier grid is too much visible. Take a look at the picture I've taken. The barrier doesn't look equaly put in place. Also I don't know how the test pattern should look through a perfect barrier ... totaly white ? How does mine look ?




Thanks for the help !

@luthor70: Hey man, welcome to the forum!

Thats a pretty good attempt for only 2 days. It should be enough to at least see the 3D effect, but it is not perfect. Ideally it would be much more uniform and as close to white as possible (in practice you will always have a orange/blue tint). Most likely its the printer. I know on my old printer that was about as good as it got, and then with the new one it was much cleaner and uniform (using the same pattern). Hopefully that new printer you got will help.

Thx for the answere cyber. I just made an interleaved image with 2 different images for the left and right eyes. I think it's a good test, because with a good barrier I may be able to see just one image at a time. I just bought one picture frame and I put the glass between the LCD screen and the barrier, it helps a lot. It seems the more the barrier is set far from the LCD, the less the viewing angle is wide.
I'll let you know when I get better results.

Ok, awesome!

I did play with that stuff all the night. Am I wright to assume that there can be many working barriers and not only one ? I mean different barriers working for different distance between the sheet and the LCD, or between the sheet and the spectator ?
The last print I did, it looked good but only with a very (very very) limited viewing angle. Is it that way it is suppose to be ?

BTW : Does your barrier work equaly from the left to the right of the screen ? I read someone wrote it couldn't work on the sides , is this true ? Thx

Different barriers for different monitors = true.
A relatively fixed viewing distance = true.
Very limited horisontal viewing angle = true but there can also be more than one hotspots where stereo is possible. Usually the "centered" viewing hotspot is the best using this method.

Yes, there is not just one pattern. Each monitor can have a different pattern, and even on the same monitor there can be different ones that work. This depends on the thickness of the glass of the monitor and your viewing distance from the screen. So you need to experiment with it to kind something that's comfortable.

Nice work Cybereality


My Resolution is 1280 * 800,Diagonal Size is 15.4 So Dot Pitch is 0.2591mm = 0.0102007874015748 inch
pbb for 1440 = 14.6891
i am using A4 size paper so can any one help me to make the perfect pattern ?



1) Click "File" -> "New"
2) Set the following options:
Width: 32px (or double whatever your ballpark ppb is),
Height: 1px
Resolution: 72 ppi
Color Mode: Grayscale 8-bit
Background Contents: White
3) Press "M" to select the Rectangular Marquee Tool.
4) Press "Control"+"R" so show the rulers. Then right-click the ruler and select "Pixels".
5) Select a 16px x 1px area on the left side of the image.
6) Press "Alt"+"Delete" to fill it with black.
7) Press "Control"+"D" to deselect the area.
8) Click "Image" -> "Define Pattern...".
9) Name it something sensible like "16px barrier".
eg
Can i change Width to 1 px and Height to 32px ?

Last night I made 2 barriers with similar results but working with different distance of viewing even though the distance between the sheet and lcd was the same. This make the work quite more complicated.
Could you please confirm that perfect barrier should work as well on the center than on the sides (on the 22" monitor screen) ?

Yes :
viewtopic.php?p=60687#p60687

@qingdao11: Depending on your monitor, you may have to adjust the numbers. So just experiment with it.

@luthor70: Yes, ideally you can get the center and sides of the monitor to work the same.

Thx Fredz, evrything you wrote in this thread is very interesting. As you mentionned the same issue with every 3D technics, it reminded me that I get this issue with my anaglyph glasses, but only if I move my body. If I don't move, the depht at the sides of the screen don't look different from the center, or at least I don't notice it.
I could test the LG optimus 3D last month in a store, and I remember I told myself that the depht didn't work well on the sides. I haven't noticed this on the Nintendo 3Ds, probably because of the smaller size of the screen ?

Hello there. The width value on the tutorial only works in cybereality's case and it must be read as an example. Your should especialy pay attention to the "interpolation" part of the tutorial.

In the case of the LG Optimus 3D, the problem of depth at the sides may come from the content itself. Some years (decades?) ago people at Stereographics (Lenny Lipton) said that for autostereoscopic displays it was better to push the convergence plane out of the screen for best effect, which generates window violations at the edges.

I've experimented this myself with most of the content available for the 3DeeSlide (lenticular lens for the iPhone). I'm not sure it was such a wise decision to do this, I didn't find any justification to this rule.

I have the Nintendo 3DS, and I have tested the HTC Evo 3D, there is no issue with the side of the screen.

I mean that its ok to print horizontal lines instead of vertical lines on A4 paper ? bec it will help me to cover more area of screen

In A4 8.2*11.6 inch paper i can print horizontal 8.2 inch sized lines with 14 pixels?

Thanks Luthor70 and Cyberreality

i tried to understand the Interpolation part
my ppb is 14.6891
so i need to make pattern something like 1 black line and 1 white line with 15px and then 1 black like with 14 px ?
i am really confused ple someone help me..........

qingdao11 : The lines must be vertical at the screen, but you can print them horizontal, then rotate your sheet at 90°.
If you print using a resolution of 1440 your ppb is actualy 14.6891 (assuming your printer can do 1440 in b&w. Read well the doc of your printer). This number only works for your LCD grid itself, but your barrier will not lay exactly on the LCD (it must be set a few mm in front of the LCD (I personnaly put a picture frame glass between them)), the right number is a little bit smaller .. maybe around 14.5 or 14.6. As you can't directly enter complicated numbers( just whole numbers), you have to use interpolation. One 14 and one 15 gives a 14.5. One 14, one 14, one 14 and one 15 give : (14+14+14+15)/4 = 14,25. In this example this would give :
- one black line made by 14 pixels
- one white line made by 14 pixes
- one black line made by 14 pixels
- one white line made by 15 pixels.
Now you have the source pattern, you just have to save it as a motif, then finaly fill your sheet with it. Also the right number may be more complicated, maybe 14.552 or 14.621, so you have to create more complicated series of numbers for the interpolation.
I hope this will help you, but I advice you to read again and again the tutorial, it's well done, thanks to cybereality. Good luck.

14.5px might be close enough, meaning one blank line with 14px width, and a black line of 15px width. However you may need to tweak this further depending on your setup.

Thanks again....i just have 6 papers so i have to be careful...ok today i am gonna print it,very excited...i am going to use Epson Stylus Photo R290 - 5760 x 1440 optimised dpi with 3pl minimum droplet size and other printer is Canon PIXMA iX4000 with 4800* x 1200dpi but i will use R290...

you can go to near by print shop in your city....they will have some better printer...you can print there....very cheap

True, but it's a pita if you don't know the exact measures for the barrier. In my experience this practically has to be tested several times before you hit right.