it's probably due to incorrect separation/convergance. the wheel thingy only controls separation- convergance is in the advanced settings somewhere.

Sounds like your glasses might possibly be the issue. If the glasses aren't uniform in blocking the light then ghosting will be very prominent.

There is ghosting in everything, less than a crt but there is. You might see more if you just started using stereo as well.

I tried Mirror's Edge and don't have much ghosting (with separation at 100%). Nothing that I would call "severe", some here and there. I assume you set your keys for ingame and enabled the in-game settings? Because if you don't you can't set the convergence. If not I think something is wrong with the glasses as well.
Do you have anything else that you can try? Stalker has very good stereo. Or try to download the RACE07 demo just to check, it also has very good stereo and almost zero ghosting for me.

Oh, another thing, make sure dynamic contrast is not on in the "Magic Bright" monitor setting because it makes everything ghost like crazy. I use a "Custom" mode with brightness at 100% and contrast at 70%.

One thing that happened is I tried the Fear 2 demo and it worked great, then somehow I pressed a key combination by mistake and it displayed a message saying "This title is not supported by nvidia". Right after that I got severe ghosting - i am talking bad, every object, everywhere and I couldn't adjust it anymore. Before I would set separation at 100% and then convergence util everything was "in" the monitor and there was almost zero ghosting. The convergence would stop after a while (couldn't adjust more in) but after the keys incident the convergence could on forever and ever, the two images could be taken out of the view completely.

As for the monitor, can you set brightness and contrast in the game from the monitor buttons or do you get a "Not available" message?

Hey Doc.. answer to monitor question.. No I cannot adjust brightness/ contrast in game from the Samsung LCD panel. I also get the unavailable message in game.

As to Fear 2 Demo.. I also tried it and can get it to work only by super converging once in game (i.e. sending the frames all the way off the screen and having them come back from the other side. There seems to be a post processing overlay which this makes go away. it works great then except for info panels. For them I set up a macro key to call up the panel, switch out of stereo and then another to switch back to stereo and go back to the game. I had to do that for Fallout 3 as well since the wrist computer was too close otherwise. Fear 2 is great once you get it into stereo.. Scary as hell ! its too bad it has so many obstacles to get there.

As to Mirrors edge. I really want to try that but I don't have it yet. It may be the convergence settings. I know when i first turned on Fallout and only used the wheel I almost puked at how bad it looked. After setting realistic convergence it was great.

I am still at a loss as to why I cant save any settings. I press Ctl F7, get a nice green on screen message "saving settings" , and a beep. Yet nothing is ever saved from one game startup to the next. Has anyone figured out where the settings are supposed to be saved. There used to be a file in an Nvidia folder where you could find the convergence and depths settings and we could even pass the best ones around in the s3rd community. Is that feature gone?

Hmmmmm, what the heck is the no adjustments when game is running thing?

The settings are saved in Users\Your Username\Documents\NVStereoscopic3D.LOG - or maybe that's just the logs.

I can save them ok.

@edgoll - Can you somehow set the brightness from the nvidia control panel for inside games? There are "Adjust desktop color settings" and "Adjust video color settings", neither affects the brightness inside the games. In XP changing setting in the desktop color settings affected the games. Maybe somebody else more familiar with vista knows how to do that?

LOL yeah ok - welcome to the world of 3d mate

Doc,, sorry I dont know any override for brightness. So far all the games i have tested however have a brightness / gamma adjustment in them.. Why do you need an override?

Also thanks for info on the NVStereoscopic3D.LOG . I don't have that anywhere on my system.. Maybe that is why my saves don't work. It is surprising all configs got to one log file since it was so different in previous drivers. I may try a reinstall to see if that fixes my absent log file. My documents aren't on my c drive.. maybe something simple like that screwed it up?

I've been using this "adjust desktop color settings" under XP, and since yesterday, under Vista and it works in games for both OSes. (I use IZ3D/interlace for S3D, though I don't think that should matter). The "adjust video color settings" should not work for in game since it's for video.
EDIT: May not applicable for 3D vision kit, according to people here who has the kit.

OK, so help out a newbie here.

1. For those of you with the kit: Are you seeing the same thing that I'm seeing with respect to the glasses? Namely, only perfect blocking in the center of the lens, in a vertical band. Rest of the lens is leaking the image. You can test this by just holding the power button for a few seconds at a time while in stereoscopic mode in any game.

2. Second, for anyone with shutter glasses in general, should I be expecting what I'm seeing with the nVidia glasses? Or is that a defect?

Doc, in Mirror's Edge, I see serious ghosting when just looking at buildings against the backdrop of the sky. It's very obvious. The black on white titling at the end of the Katana demo movie is also very tough to focus on with the ghosting of the text.

Like others in this thread, I cannot adjust the settings of the monitor in 3D mode. I'm guessing it maxes out the brightness and other settings automatically to compensate for the shutter loss in brightness.

I've already learned how to play with the convergence settings and have used that to fix many games (for some reason the default settings of most games puts the scene too close to the eyes and over the 2D hud elements). The ghosting I'm complaining about isn't the same thing.

Rkuo.. i do not see any banding on mine.. the whole lens seems to be uniformly black when I run the power button test. (glad you found that i didn't know that was there) Sounds like you may have a bad set of glasses.

As to what to expect from these Nvidia shutter glasses... You should not expect severe ghosting. I have to look real hard to find ghosting on the games I have tested so far. it is not at all a problem as it was in the previous generation of this technology.

Hey edgoll, here's a a picture I snapped through the lens while using the power button on the glasses to black out the lens.

So, just to confirm, you can't see at all through the lens when it's shuttered? Because I definitely can.

So thats 50% of glasses dodgy so far

No banding for me either, both lenses are 100% black. You need to replace the glasses.

Doesn't work for me at all, but it wasn't an xp upgrade, it was straight vista. It used to work in xp, so maybe that's why it works for you. The changes don't affect anything in game, not even without stereo, it goes back to default and then back to whatever I set on the desktop only. If the game has a brightness setting, that works, but not all do.

Sometimes I want to just make it 5-10% brighter that's why I am asking.

I checked this and the switch doesn't affect the nvidia glasses. I'm not sure how to switch them for projectors, but I'm sure somebody can find a way.

Am I understanding, Doctor, that even using the "superbright" button/setting on this new monitor that you still find it a bit "underlit?"


k

Well, brightness at 100%, it is much better than the crt, but I wouldn't mind being able to adjust it. the magic bright dynamic contrast stuff is useless, it dynamically sets the contrast and brightness but it's very bad, lots of ghosting with that on.

Hi,

I've been lurking around the stereo 3d community, on and off, for a while hoping that something would come out at a reasonable price. My ideal would be a eMagin style HDM with, at least, 1024x768 resolution but, barring that, I've been following the nVidia 3D Vision stuff. $200 is, definitely, a lot more expensive that the previous generation of shutter glasses, but the features (wireless, direct convergence control on the pyramid, etc.) and reviews seem to suggest that these are higher quality which tends to mitigate the price for me. Of course, It all ceases to be affordable when you have to buy a new 22" monitor for $400 - ~$500 or DLP TV/Projector for $1000+. This was, especially, grating for me as I had just purchase a new 28" monitor a few months ago which I see no reason to replace, much less with a smaller 22" one.

My solution was to purchase a used IBM P275 on ebay for ~$65. It may be smaller than my main monitor, but it was much cheaper than the officially recommended monitors and should be able to put out at least 100-120hz at 1280x1024. For a combined price of about $265 I can give the tech a try and also have a secondary monitor (my 28" also doubles as my TV in my studio apartment). Any used monitor from the last generation of high-end CRTs should work just as well. The only problem I'm having is getting access to refresh rate settings over 100hz in Vista. It seems either Vista or the nVdia drivers are locked at 100hz. I've found some references on Google to the possibility of editing some nVidia driver files to open up access but haven't found all the details yet.

Thanks to you guys in this thread, I now have another option as well. Once the CRT has allowed me to install the drivers, I'll be able to try the shutter glasses on my, much larger, 28". It can't do 100hz+, but it can do up to ~85hz and I've never been very sensitive to low refresh rate displays so I may not have problems using it.

Again, thanks for the info about the shutter glasses as well as about getting them to work with <100hz monitors. If anyone happens to know how to open up higher refresh rates in Vista, I'd appreciate any help.

-Colecoman1982

Be careful, I tested them on under 100HZ crt monitors, not lcd, I don't think anybody knows how if that would work. And are you sure it's really 85HZ?

Speaking of that I tried the nvidia glasses on the samsung 120HZ monitor at 100Hz and 60Hz and stereo works ok with zero flicker. I'm not sure if it really does 60HZ and not just resets itself to 120HZ even though it says 1680*1050@60HZ in the 3d nvidia thing.

The question for those who have already bought the nvidia 3D Stereo Vision glasses:

Anybody can export branch of the Registry "NVIDIA Corporation" (with activated is on 3D Vision pageflip) and put on file share (rapidshare or another) or attached to the message ?
Addresses in the registry: "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE \ SOFTWARE \ NVIDIA Corporation" , and if 64-bit windows, and then "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE \ SOFTWARE \ Wow6432Node \ NVIDIA Corporation"

And that's what: Does anyone know (or read the forums) DWORD value for the monitor-ID of the new monitors samsung and viewsonic?

We are grateful to you.

You can check the refresh rate at any time from the OSD menu of the monitor.

Good idea. It's always 120HZ.

Got a set of these on the way to the uk Will be testing with several different projectors and post results here.

Hiya chrisjarram,
would be cool if you could test your hi-power emitter together with ED-glasses also!
Hopefully the Benq's do work as I've got a PB6240!
Good luck! I'm looking forward to hearing from you!!

Yep, if he's talking about an LCD there there is practically zero chance of pageflipping working unless it is one of the 120hz models which have been designed with this application specifically in mind. 'Normal' lcds simply do not work with pageflipping unless used in interlaced mode (somewhat pointless really).

I might give this a try, but likely will just use my CrystalEyes for the big rig. We've already established in this thread the eDims will work as they are VESA standard - you'll need to have the 3dvision ir emitter plugged in to enable pageflip however.

BTW if they do work I've got a couple of projectors for sale in the UK at the moment - a Sharp XR-10X (NOT xl), and a BenQ MP721 if anyone is interested (pm me pls). Will confirm these work with the nvidia glasses though.

Posting a couple more pics of Mirror's edge thru each lens so you can see the ghosting.

I would say the ghosting is slightly worse than what you see in the pics, but this is fairly representative of what I'm seeing. Luckily the pictures from my camera seem to mostly reproduce what I'm seeing.

People! I need the contents of the registry tree ( "NVIDIA Corporation" ), please.
For me, it's important.

I have this same projector and am currently dying to know if it will work with the Nvidia glasses. Things are really looking up but the reverse pageflip problem could still be an issue for me. I have the High Output IR Emitter which can reverse the Edim glasses, but the Nvidia glasses may not reverse, I dunno! Want...to...place...order...now! But must wait to see if they will really work or not!

Thanks for the research y'all

DAMO 3000: Your avatar turns my stomach every time I see it.

Don't suppose you would consider using something else?

[Don't get me wrong...I "get" it, sure. But it still makes me sick]


k

How about some cheese with your whine?

And how 'bout some "butt OUT" to go with your own "overly long nose?"

The post was addressed to Damo3000, and not to you...so get lost!


k

Oh boo hoo cry me a river, how about you PM damo if you have an issue with his avatar and dont want anyone else to know what a little sook you are.

Think next time before you post on a public forum.

The proper response is "oops. Sorry I stuck my oar into your conversation, " but of course YOU wouldn't understand. So one must, instead, educate YOU with a 2x4 upside the head.

Besides, who said I didn't want anyone else to know?

WHAM! Idiot! Has it rung a bell YET? BUTT THE FU** OUT!

Some people are too stupid even to "get" 2D...and you are clearly among them!.

Think...twice...before you next post on a public forum.


k

Lol the tears are running fast. This will be deleted anyway but i have been entertained by the hurt feelings of such a little girl.

Whatever, fool.

It's quite clear who started this little war...and who didn't.

My sympathies to any...and all...who happen to know you personally.


k

Just to get this thread back on topic (or at least close to it)... rkuo, you definitely have some issues going on. If you haven't already done so, I would reinstall the Nvidia software but after looking at your pictures I seriously doubt this will help. Call Nvidia support as it isn't normal for shutterglasses to have a uniformity issue as serious as you are seeing. I just installed the kit last night on my rig and my initial impressions are very positive. I haven't seen anything like what you describe.

yes that is a daft question

OK the basics - all the sync signal is, is a square wave coming from the sync pin in the VGA port. When a switch is flipped, this square wave is inverted in the dongle - so will only affect any glasses attached to it. The nvidia dongle has a VESA input, it is a 10 minute job to wire the VGA port sync pin to this and invert it.