DIY Oculus Rift - schematics, instructions and build pics!

Post by **Owen** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:10 pm

Partial overlap on the software side should have the cameras turn outward at the same angle as the optics, then apply barrel distortion as normal. Shearing wouldn't give you correct perspective. Think of it this way, when the lens and screen are turned outward, its no different from looking through the rift with your eye turned inward.

Post by **zacherynuk** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:35 am

OK - this really isn't the place for this; but Palmer is too busy for me to ask him to split the thread! Can anybody else ?

Partial Overlap Example picture

Anyway, I have lost all the assets I had when I was testing partial overlap - I had it working superb with 2 screens in portrait with still images a good few years ago, but I could not find any software which would do the cropping. CROPPING IS ALL IT IS!

So I have just thrown together this image, for me it works perfect with the 5X loupes and my head size. The rest of you should be able to get alignment without too much issue. If this is your first time partial overlap; you will see why we say it is the only true way to get immersion. It's freakin awsome IMHO.

But here is a partial overlap picture, print out 100% and have a play, it is 21cm accross.

All you are doing is restricting what each eye sees, like in real life - allowing you to use the rest of the screen real-estate for higher non 3D FOV.

I have created a quick post here for reference: http://www.wastedspace.co.uk/cms/2012/0 ... l-overlap/

Whilst I am here - a few quick other points (These may be wrong, but it is my understanding): You do not want to change the angle of each eye camera! You do not look at the world like that, our eyes are separated only, and until we get real time focussing in HMD's nothing else need change when presenting the image.

Professional HMD's which support partial overlap have to have each eyepiece moved into place when this mode is utilised; this is not because the act of diverging our vision increases the FOV, it's because the act of using partial overlap effectively increases the virtual image size - so we need to angle the eyepieces slightly to widen the IPD and make it feel more natural; since the focus point extends.

Post by **TheLostBrain** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:00 am

zacherynuk wrote: CROPPING IS ALL IT IS!

You do not want to change the angle of each eye camera! You do not look at the world like that, our eyes are separated only

That is 100% correct... when the two physical displays are simply positioned side by side in a collinear fashion (essentially resting their backs on the same virtual plane). In this scenario all we need to do is a bit of linear displacement as you have shown.

However, when the screens are angled (convergent / divergent) then the view frustum / eye camera needs to be needs to be angled in a complementing manner. Our eyes still look straight ahead but the scene imagery is rotated to compensate for the screen itself being angled.

Each approach (convergent, collinear, divergent) are all usable and each has it's own set of advantages and disadvantages. Ex: Some reports show target acquisition to better w/ the convergent approach vs the divergent approach... However, I believe the divergent approach inherently covers more of your peripheral vision and thus offers a larger potential horizontal FOV...While the collinear approach is technically achievable via a single screen of proper dimensions.

They all have their place and application.

However, I believe I'd like to experiment w/ 'divergent' myself for the inherent peripheral vision coverage.... Test it yourself: Looking straight ahead hold a piece of paper in front of you right eye... now hold the left edge in place and begin pulling the right edge back (essentially turning the sheet clockwise if looking from above).. that same sheet angled in this manner covers much more of your peripheral vision. if this were a real screen you'd just need to rotate the scene data to compensate.

Post by **zacherynuk** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:16 am

Good stuff, thanks!

However, I believe the divergent approach inherently covers more of your peripheral vision and thus offers a larger potential horizontal FOV...While the collinear approach is technically achievable via a single screen of proper dimensions.

Agreed, it is the best and easiest, but in my testing I was hindered by the angles; really 5-10 was the absolute max I could make comfortably work without ruining exit pupil.

What we need is a bloomin' 3D drivers that will allow us to play with it

Post by **Owen** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:28 am

Yes, cropping works if you have coplanar displays and magnifying optics. When they are coplanar, the displays would need to be off center with respect to the optics in order to have partial overlap, so an off axis perspective projection is needed in at case as you said.

Post by **TheLostBrain** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 11:02 am

Owen wrote:Yes, cropping works if you have coplanar displays and magnifying optics. When they are coplanar, the displays would need to be off center with respect to the optics in order to have partial overlap, so an off axis perspective projection is needed in at case as you said.

Coplanar... that is so much more consise than my 'colinear w/ their backs resting on the same virtual plane'... lol. And you'd think I would have used that term myself as I see it (and use it) all the time in SolidWorks lol.

Post by **PatimPatam** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 11:13 am

zacherynuk wrote:What we need is a bloomin' 3D drivers that will allow us to play with it

Just to clarify, for the divergent approach I doubt this could be done at a driver level, as Owen already mentioned. For the coplanar approach, I'm not sure..

For games to work with angled displays they would need to support this feature at a graphics-engine level. All you need to test this is a simple demo app where the 2 view frustums have divergent angles. I'm sure some people from this forum can help you with that!

Post by **TheLostBrain** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 11:33 am

PatimPatam wrote:
zacherynuk wrote:What we need is a bloomin' 3D drivers that will allow us to play with it
Just to clarify, for the divergent approach I doubt this could be done at a driver level, as Owen already mentioned. For the coplanar approach, I'm not sure..

For games to work with angled displays they would need to support this feature at a graphics-engine level. All you need to test this is a simple demo app where the 2 view frustums have divergent angles. I'm sure some people from this forum can help you with that!

In case it was missed...(a few posts back)... For 'divergent' I was able to accomplish a working approximation w/ iZ3d a few years ago.
I *believe* it was simply convergence rotated outwards...and maybe a little adjustment to the separation.
However, I also have some weird hazy memory of doing some funky stuff where I increased convergence and decreased the separation until the views flipped and then swapped the left/right video cables.... Maybe it was just some drunken haze? lol

Post by **zacherynuk** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 12:02 pm

TheLostBrain wrote:
PatimPatam wrote:
zacherynuk wrote:What we need is a bloomin' 3D drivers that will allow us to play with it
Just to clarify, for the divergent approach I doubt this could be done at a driver level, as Owen already mentioned. For the coplanar approach, I'm not sure..

For games to work with angled displays they would need to support this feature at a graphics-engine level. All you need to test this is a simple demo app where the 2 view frustums have divergent angles. I'm sure some people from this forum can help you with that!
In case it was missed...(a few posts back)... For 'divergent' I was able to accomplish a working approximation w/ iZ3d a few years ago.
I *believe* it was simply convergence rotated outwards...and maybe a little adjustment to the separation.
However, I also have some weird hazy memory of doing some funky stuff where I increased convergence and decreased the separation until the views flipped and then swapped the left/right video cables.... Maybe it was just some drunken haze? lol

But surely for a basic side by side Coplanar setup, all that needs to happen is that the scene from each eye is rendered wider than it has to be and then cropped for each eye. Seems simple enough in my tiny brain! Now I have so many screens and importantly longer lvds cables (and now a smaller board) I can have a go at these things properly; perhaps I'll see if I can create a partial overlap 3D clip so at least I have something animated to play with.

Post by **Owen** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 12:52 pm

Actually you would use convergence from iz3d for coplanar displays, because they use off axis frustums for convergence. A 3D monitor is basically two coplanar displays that happen to occupy the same physical space after all.

A driver could handle the rotation for divergent optics though, just apply a rotation transform to the projection. Clipping would be a nightmare though.

Post by **MaterialDefender** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:32 pm

Would it make sense to do something like this in a 2d only solution with a 90% FOV like the Rift has or is this only useful with greater FOVs? The lens distortion injection shader I released here two weeks ago crops 25% of the image on both sides when used in aspect ratio 'correction' mode. Doing the cropping like shown in the images above instead should be extremely easy.

If I find the time I will release an updated version with this functionality in the next few days. Would be nice to get some feedback from DIY Rift owners, unfortunately I don't have one myself. Last time the feedback was a bit underwhelming, and sharing is much more fun, when you receive something in return.

Post by **zacherynuk** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:49 pm

MaterialDefender wrote:Would it make sense to do something like this in a 2d only solution with a 90% FOV like the Rift has or is this only useful with greater FOVs? The lens distortion injection shader I released here two weeks ago crops 25% of the image on both sides when used in aspect ratio 'correction' mode. Doing the cropping like shown in the images above instead should be extremely easy.

If I find the time I will release an updated version with this functionality in the next few days. Would be nice to get some feedback from DIY Rift owners, unfortunately I don't have one myself. Last time the feedback was a bit underwhelming, and sharing is much more fun, when you receive something in return.

Needs to be 3D really... LInk me to your current injector please

Post by **MaterialDefender** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:59 pm

It's just a few threads down. http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=15473

Post by **Bretspot** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:01 pm

Hi everyone,
New here, but love the idea of throwing together a cheap "3d Viewer" using some lenses, some hot-glue and a kindle fire.
It would be for viewing 3d images and maybe movies on the web, but not for gaming yet.

Can someone take a look at these lenses and let me know if they think they would work?

http://tinyurl.com/FrysLoup

Thanks!

Post by **zacherynuk** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:04 pm

Bretspot wrote:Hi everyone,
New here, but love the idea of throwing together a cheap "3d Viewer" using some lenses, some hot-glue and a kindle fire.
It would be for viewing 3d images and maybe movies on the web, but not for gaming yet.

Can someone take a look at these lenses and let me know if they think they would work?

I think the fire screen would be too big for 5X and I think those loupes are too small judging by the coins only...

Post by **Bretspot** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:08 pm

Thanks for the feedback, yeah I'll have to see them in person first, but I figured, I can always scale the image down a bit, but yeah, it would likely be annoying.
If I put anything together, I'll post a pic.

Post by **Guygasm** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 4:00 pm

Not sure if this is old news, but if anyone is still interested in experimenting with the Razer Hydra I just noticed a student discount on their website. $79.99 (without Portal 2) but you do need access to a .edu email address.

Post by **Bretspot** » Sat Sep 29, 2012 12:17 pm

Hey 'yall,
So I picked up some 3x 2" magnifiers last night, I tried them with some images on my computer monitor scaled down and I think possibly the magnification isn't high enough, What is the relationship between magnification and screen size? Why is 5.6" usually used with 5x? Would a 4x with a 7" screen work possibly?
http://tinyurl.com/frys4x
I can get those at frys for 5$, but I don't want to waste money again. I need to find that program that lets you adjust the location and warping of an image, I guess back to the forums for more searching.

Post by **troffmo5** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:40 am

Good news:
http://sharp-world.com/corporate/news/121001.html

Post by **2EyeGuy** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:49 am

Display size: 5 inches
Number of pixels: 1,080 x 1,920 (full HD)
Pixel density: 443 ppi
Application: Smartphones

"Application: Smartphones"

they have no imagination. We could do much cooler things with it.

Post by **jaybug** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:05 am

Maybe one of the "exciting surprises" is that Oculus have procured a batch of these screens for the dev-kits.

I can dream, can't I?

Post by **MrGreen** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:41 am

5 inches is too small no?

The current prototype screen is what, 5.6"? And Dykus mentioned the ideal size would be something around 7" if I recall correctly.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 1:50 pm

Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!

I got my LCD in today, and I hooked it all up, but I'm having some serious issues.

See the image links below for how it's hooked up.

The first thing I noticed when I unboxed it and assembled it, is that the plug for the "button board" didn't fit the socket on the LCD controller board. It was 1 pin too wide on the connector, and this 1 ping was unoccupied. So, I cut of the unused socket on the connector and it fit fine.

I got my universal power supply, set it to 5V, and made sure the polarity was correct according the bottom of the PCB. I plugged it and, and the green LED on the button board comes on, the screen lines up, (like a smashed GameGear), and does nothing. Eventually, the LED on the button board changes to red, but the screen looks the same.

There is no apparent damage of the screen in any way, I think my problem is in a connection perhaps. Could someone who owns this board look at my images? I'm going to try to contact the eBay seller for his advise.

http://s14.postimage.org/g5zcaum41/2012 ... _46_35.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/kt5ecm9gx/2012 ... _46_50.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/lwpioku41/2012 ... _47_10.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/npsfcwfap/2012 ... _47_17.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/q8iprbqep/2012 ... _47_28.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/hvd0wnr75/2012 ... _47_35.jpg <--- THIS is the plug I cut the unused empty socket from, so it fits.

http://s14.postimage.org/h0v2od8q9/2012 ... _47_53.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/fn3ft29gx/2012 ... _48_19.jpg

Thanks!

Yoder

Post by **space123321** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:32 pm

Yikes - that does not look good.

As an FYI - I run my DIY Rift without my 'button board' plugged in... simply plug the unit in and it is up and running.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:36 pm

space123321 wrote:Yikes - that does not look good.

As an FYI - I run my DIY Rift without my 'button board' plugged in... simply plug the unit in and it is up and running.

That's actually what I tried first. It did that, so I plugged in the button board.

The stripes aren't always in the same place. You can unplug it, and plug it back in, and the position of the striped will have changed.

When I plug in the HDMI cable, it makes no difference on the screen, but the PC detects the display, and correctly sets the resolution.

I'm thinking maybe one of the LVDS pairs is wrong? I dunno - it doesn't seem possible to plug the LVDS connector in backwards either.

I'm at a loss.

Post by **space123321** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:49 pm

I am running mine via the VGA input - wondering if you try this to see if it is the HDMI connection?

Post by **zacherynuk** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:57 pm

Yoder808 wrote:Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!

Euurgh! Gutted; after waiting for it so long!

That to me looks like a badly programmed driver board / driver board failure.

Does the button board do anything ? - Does the screen flicker at all when input is assigned?

Where you from? - Perhaps somebody within cheap postal distance (or better) will have another board / lcd / cable to test with.

Where did you buy from ? Vitrolight have always been awesome with their support to me, but they seem gone now

- or perhaps just too busy building rift panels..

Post by **zacherynuk** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 3:02 pm

MrGreen wrote:5 inches is too small no?

The current prototype screen is what, 5.6"? And Dykus mentioned the ideal size would be something around 7" if I recall correctly.

5" could work - 11cm x 6.2cm - 5.5 IPD - it's pushing it for sure.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 3:13 pm

zacherynuk wrote:
Yoder808 wrote:Hey DIY Rift Gurus! I need some help!
Euurgh! Gutted; after waiting for it so long!

I know right. I just finished my 3rd foam board prototype/ski goggle mount too.

zacherynuk wrote:That to me looks like a badly programmed driver board / driver board failure.

Does the button board do anything ? - Does the screen flicker at all when input is assigned?

Nope. Nothing. The power button does shut it off and on though.

zacherynuk wrote:Where you from? - Perhaps somebody within cheap postal distance (or better) will have another board / lcd / cable to test with.

Oklahoma. Perhaps, I'd drive to troubleshoot the thing if need be.

zacherynuk wrote:Where did you buy from ? Vitrolight have always been awesome with their support to me, but they seem gone now - or perhaps just too busy building rift panels..

Yes, I bought it from Vitrolight. I haven't contacted them yet, in case I'm just a moron. I noticed his eBay store said he's away until October 7th. I'll send him an email. Mine didn't come with a power supply, I'm not sure if that's par for the course. I also have a jumper for power (3.3V 5V and 12V). I've tried all 3 at the correct voltage levels, but the panel behaves the same.

Thanks for the help guys!

Post by **zacherynuk** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 3:25 pm

Yes, I bought it from Vitrolight. I haven't contacted them yet, in case I'm just a moron. I noticed his eBay store said he's away until October 7th. I'll send him an email. Mine didn't come with a power supply, I'm not sure if that's par for the course. I also have a jumper for power (3.3V 5V and 12V). I've tried all 3 at the correct voltage levels, but the panel behaves the same.

Thanks for the help guys!

If it's a cheap multi selector PSU, make sure it has enough juice at 12v - often the cheap ones claim 1500ma but only supply <500ma at 12v ! Now you've said that I think you may make it work using the power of... power

If not - must be another one in all of Oklahoma! ask Cyber to put out an APB

Post by **3dvison** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 4:29 pm

Thought Yoder808 said he set it to 5v ? Should it be set at 12v ?

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:11 pm

3dvison wrote:Thought Yoder808 said he set it to 5v ? Should it be set at 12v ?

Out of the box, it was set at 5V. I tried it with my cheapo universal power supply at 5V, no joy. I then tried 12V set at 12V, and 3.3V set at 3.3V, same result. (although at 3.3V, it would 'kick off and on' every few seconds.) My cheapo power supply is rated for 1300mA, or 500mA USB.

I'm freakin' out.... No way my wife's letting me buy a replacement if I can't get this fixed or replaced.

Post by **3dvison** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:41 pm

OK.
Don't think this would be the problem, but Is it a barrel type connecter, and if so, is the polarity correct ?
It does look more like a cable problem.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:39 pm

3dvison wrote:OK.
Don't think this would be the problem, but Is it a barrel type connecter, and if so, is the polarity correct ?
It does look more like a cable problem.

I think it's correct. I'm afraid to try it backwards. My universal power supply has different tips, and each can be put on in any way. I've got mine setup for positive tip. I'll post pictures.

http://postimage.org/image/yi06r227f/
http://postimage.org/image/mvg2pxewb/
http://postimage.org/image/wu11ceobv/
http://postimage.org/image/iq5640h4b/
http://postimage.org/image/lli9avl4b/
http://postimage.org/image/dwq0cwa0b/
http://postimage.org/image/r4pe5u7jf/

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:45 pm

Here's my latest prototype. The next one (if there is a next one

) will be from black foam board. It's slightly modified, based from on the OP's PDF.

My phone took real turd pictures. Oh well, you get the idea.

Post by **android78** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:25 pm

do you have a datasheet for the actual display? The microdisplays I've played with in the past essentially have color data lines, a Hsync, Vsync and pixel clock (also blank and enable). It almost looks to me as if either the Hsync and Vsync are round the wrong way, or the clock and Hsync are round the wrong way, or one isn't connected. It may be worth a test, if you can isolate the data clock lines (h/v/clock) from the display and try disconnecting them one at a time and see which one has/hasn't an effect on the picture you are seeing.
More then likely one of the clock lines is just not connecting properly.

Post by **mushroomking** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:26 pm

I have been following this thread (also found via HackaDay if anyone cares), and am very tempted to build my own...unfortunately my OCD when it comes to proper aspect ratio rendering is preventing from jumping on the bandwagon.

I read on another thread that the ideal would be a minimum of 1080x1080 per eye with a 1:1 aspect ratio. Assuming one were able to source these smaller 4.8" and 5" screens, you could just run two side by side in portrait mode and for render them to 1080x1080 in windows.

end result is roughly the same width, with a usable area of 2160x1080

this is all assuming one can source these smaller 1080p units at an affordable price.

Post by **android78** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:37 pm

also, the disconnected leads on the power FET is normal since the drain is also connected to he metal tab, which is soldered to the board.

Post by **Yoder808** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:42 pm

android78 wrote:do you have a datasheet for the actual display? The microdisplays I've played with in the past essentially have color data lines, a Hsync, Vsync and pixel clock (also blank and enable). It almost looks to me as if either the Hsync and Vsync are round the wrong way, or the clock and Hsync are round the wrong way, or one isn't connected. It may be worth a test, if you can isolate the data clock lines (h/v/clock) from the display and try disconnecting them one at a time and see which one has/hasn't an effect on the picture you are seeing.
More then likely one of the clock lines is just not connecting properly.

Here's the datasheet for the LCD panel - http://hgc41198.chinaw3.com/docs/HV056WX1-100.pdf

I'm looking for one on the controller...

Post by **android78** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:02 pm

how did you determine the correct pinout for the driver board? I guess you don't have a scope that you can use to see if you're getting the right kind of signals at the display end?