Optoma def. has best dlp glasses. Bit dark but with bright screen it counters it. I am just amazed with its build qualitity. I had to buy an acer 5360 + optoma 3d xl since I can not find an 5360bd anywhere. But it is essentially same thing at same price.

I have not been able to detect a rainbow effect on the H5360BD either in 2D or 3D. My previous projector was an Acer model from 2007 and that had a distinct rainbow effect - to my eyes, at least.

I currently have two pairs of glasses: one from Optoma and a pair from Ultimate 3D Heaven. They are both excellent.

I have those both as well. 3D heaven is a bit cheaper but has ghosting (tiny bit) and a greenish tint. Id rather have dark tint and make screen real bright. Its also only one with ghosting though minor..no idea why there should be any.
I like nvidia(non-dlp) because of image qualitity(darkening is very minor.) However the glasses are garbage. Screen size is so small and easy to get scratches on. The optoma is a notch below that just cause screen is darker... bright screen and settings can help. Optomas build qualitity is so nice. Its only 3d glasses that looks like what you paid for.

I really like the idea of infrared but havent tried any besides nvidia(I think they mainly only work with optoma's.) DLP link works great but I have to play around with settings each time. I have it set for theatre in acer 5360 and eco mode. Then when I go to watch dlp link I got to set for bright. Turn on dlp link and turn off eco. Its 100% = to 2d in brightness but its a bit annoying.

I'm apparently the most rainbow sensitive person on the planet. If you ended up reading my comparison of the Optoma HD33 and the Epson 3010 at AVSForum, you'd already know some of this... but I cut my rainbow teeth on an inFocus X1 8 years ago. It had what I would call "moderate" rainbows. But worse than that, more than about 10 minutes would give me a headache- I think from eye strain. The X1 has a "2x" wheel, meaning that it runs at twice the 60hz operating frequency... meaning 120hz. I'm not sure if it was a 3 segment or a 6 segment wheel, but I want to say 6. Regardless, the HD33 has a 3x/6x wheel. Meaning it runs at 3x the 120hz operating frequency (so... 360hz) which would be the equivalent of 6x on 60hz (also has 6 segments, IIRC). As I mentioned in the AVS review, I had hoped the 6x wheel would eliminate RBE for both myself and my wife, but the RBE on the HD33 was the worst RBE I've ever encountered. Could be because it was so bright. Someone told me I just had to turn the brightness down, but I have serious doubts I'd be able to tune it down enough to completely get rid of RBE, and who wants to turn it down? Especially when I can just switch back to LCD.

Sensitivity varies from person to person, it's true. JUST HOPE YOU'RE NOT NEXT!

You should check out this thread at AVS: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1354360

HD33 owners are comparing the RF glasses and the DLP link- and the overwhelming consensus is that people perefer the DLP link.

Can you point specific posts ? Because this thread is 90 pages long and I don't feel like reading it entirely.

Also can you tell us why they prefer DLP-Link over RF in general ? Because it seems quite counter-intuitive to me, considering the known drawbacks of DLP-Link (random eye inversions, less contrast, blue colorimetric shift).

Liar! You totally want to read all 90 pages.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthre ... st21155843

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthre ... st21156457

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthre ... st21156534 (read several posts)

Here's a sampling. There are a crap tonne of other posts on the topic, but they are mostly in line with these.

Just an FYI: People generally seemed to tune the RFs to their liking, and then a couple of posts later would say "The RF settings I used for Movie X looked terrible on Movie Y, so I tuned them again... now Movie X looks terrible!"

Again, general consensus seems to be Pro DLP Link due to : Better Sync, Better Colour, Better Fit, Better Price, No fine tuning required.

Thanks for the links, but unfortunately they all come from one single person using a specific model of glasses (Optoma RF). This pair is most probably sub-par or simply faulty, but that doesn't mean it'll be the case for all RF glasses. It's not really possible to make a general case about this technology by basing it on this single review.

Also DLP-Link known problems don't seem to affect this guy very much, although many other people have already reported problems about brightness, contrast, colorimetry and eye inversions. So I'm really tempted to take what he says with a grain of salt and I'll wait for more reviews before forging my own opinion about RF technology.

Well RF will sync via the VESA port, right? Meaning no pseudo-stereo? That alone sounds like reason enough to use it. Can't speak to any of the other issues since I don't have a projector (yet).

Fair enough. You didn't want to read all 90 pages- I didn't want to read all 90 pages... AGAIN, so I didn't get a more comprehensive sampling. There are far more people in that thread that share that opinion. I haven't really heard anyone strongly express the opposite opinion- that they've used DLP link and... ANY other kind of glasses and not prefered the DLP link.

At any rate, I don't have a dog in this fight. I just thought some of you would like to know what the masses of HD33 owners had experienced.

When I talked about reviews of DLP-Link problems I was not refering to this thread (which I didn't read), but to several threads on AVS and other sites (including MTBS3D). These come with images showing the difference between DLP-Link and non DLP-Link 3D, and they illustrate quite well the problems I talked about.

I just pointed out that the opinion of that one guy in this thread can't be extended as a general case. And even if a particular model of RF glasses is worse than DLP-Link, it doesn't mean that RF is inherently doomed. If properly implemented RF should be a lot better than DLP-Link, and better than IR too which have its own share of problems. That's pretty much the reason why 3D Vision Pro does use RF and not DLP-Link nor IR. Bluetooth is also another technology that is interesting and which is already used in several models of glasses (Samsung for example).

Yesterday I bought an Acer H5360BD which I believe is the discussed projector in this topic. So my setup is the following:

H5360BD
MacBook Pro
- 2 GHz Intel Core i7
- 8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
- AMD Radeon HD 6490M 256 MB
- Max OS X Lion 10.7.2
Acer 3D Glasses (DLP Link)

I have two kind of movies to test:
1. Side-By-Side 3D MKV
2. 3D Blu Ray

My first question is the most important:
Is it possible to watch Side-By-Side MKV movies from my laptop in 3D on my projector?
If that is not possible, I can use BootCamp to run Windows, there I've been told I should use software like TotalMedia Theater and PowerDVD11 to get the side-by-side 3d effect. Is this true?

You should be able to play side-by-side 3D movies under Mac OS X using Bino if you can force your display into a frame-packing mode (1280x1470).

See :
- http://bino3d.org/
- http://bino3d.org/doc/bino.html

Thanks a bunch for the reply I am going to try and download it right now.

With display you mean the Acer H5360BD that I have right? Unfortunately I have no idea what frame-packing mode is, I need to check the manual on that too.

Ok I found something.

When connected to HDM 1.4, a new option will become available:
3D Format which has the options:
- Auto
- Frame Packing (yeeh)
- Top down
- Side by Side

However, my laptop is currently connected through VGA, so my guesses are I would need to figure out a way to connect my MacBook Pro through HDMi to the projector? Cause now the option is not available.

I do have AppleTV connected to the projector but my guesses are that won't be able to play 3d movies.

Wow this was INSANE easy! The problem indeed was with the VGA, this does not allow the projector to output a 3D image. However when I put my stereo movie on the AppleTV, I can choose side-by-side as the 3d Format and it all works!!! So awesome Thanks for the help.

Yes you need an HDMI connexion for frame-packing, it's part of the HDMI 1.4a specification. All you should need is to use a graphics mode with a 1280x1470 resolution at 60Hz.

With VGA you need a way to send content in page-flipping format to your projector. OpenGL quad buffer stereo provides such a feature and may be supported on your Macbook Pro. Just launch Bino to see if it's detected.

But an HDMI connection would probably be simpler and provide a better image quality.

EDIT : didn't see your last message, nice that you got it working.