Sounds like you got a nice setup there. Should be more than enough for watching 3D movies and playing some games. The lanyards are also great to have. I use them on the VR920 and it helps a lot to keep everything secure on my face.

Thanks for the review GoldChain, nice to know that the 3D experience is very good on this setup. And happy 3D with your family...

So real quick: I'm enjoying the 73" DLP greatly! Watching a 2D blu-ray as I type this and it's so clean/clear.......

So to the point of the title of this thread. I use the THX/SMPTE viewing distance calculators, and decided to try the (I believe THX max recommended) viewing distance of 8.5'. Although my wife is going to "give it a try" before deciding (that she likely doesn't like it that close), I have no issues sitting 8.5' away from the 73" screen. It's very comfortable viewing and I feel I can really appreciate the full resolution of Blu-Rays and 1080p gaming.

As far as lens "size", with the UltraClears and I'm sure many of the others out there, this is a non-issue. Even at 8.5' from a 73" set, the UCs have no issue not "covering" the whole screen when wearing them.

I noticed when watching 3D BD or doing 3D gaming the image wasn't quite as sharp/crisp. I initially chalked it up to the wobulation and the fact that the checkerboard is used for stereo (i.e. half resolution). Still looked really good, and just last night a friend was like "The quality on this is awesome" while playing Wipeout HD in 3D. But as a test, I played a BD in 2D (Despicable Me) and simply put the glasses on (both in an off state, and again in an ON state with DLP enabled (which you can do regardless of if there is 3D content playing or not)) and found that the glasses themselves seem to cause the same slight drop in sharpness/detail whether in an on or off state. I know on HD camcorders, when I bought a wide-angle adapter, there were some lenses that were made to be able to resolve 1080 lines of resolution, and if you used a non-HD rated lens, you would get sub-par quality due to lowered resolution of the lens. So I'm wondering if anyone has done any resolution testing with the different glasses? I know most folks that have used the UltraClear glasses have said there's no difference between the Samsung/Mits glasses.... so are ALL LCD shutterglasses prone to a slight detail decrease? Just by the nature of the glasses? So IMHO, whatever quality/resolution IQ difference between half-resolution checkerboard and true 1080p 3D is masked by the glasses themselves.

Anyway sorry for rambling again! I seem to do that a lot!

BTW, if anyone is interested...... I picked up the WD-73C10 (same as the 73638 with a difference bezel style) for $1299 shipped. Yesterday a co-worker was at a local Ultimate Electronics store, and they had the WD-73638 for $999 and the WD-73738 for $1199!! I was a little miffed that I could've gotten it for $300 cheaper had I waited a week, but you never know. I love the quality of the set, so no regrets. Things always get cheaper... it just happened to be the week after I got mine.

GC

Not all glasses are created equal. Some are more clear than others.

Which I would assume to be the case. I'd like to try some other brands to see if they're any clearer, but frankly if you have to pay $200 for a pair that are just marginally better as far as IQ, then I'm not sure it's worth it when considering I'm buying for 4 people (not including any guests )

And not having any experience with other shutterglasses (except for brief uses in stores and such), I was kind of commenting out loud that a given BD looked a clear and sharp in 3D as it did in 2D when viewed through the glasses..... in which case all of the hyperbole about 1/2 resolution checkerboard is essentially made moot.

GC

I wonder if the result would be the same with IR shutter glasses instead of DLP shutter glasses. As I said previously, people on AVS reported that the image had some problems (rainbowing) with these DLP glasses (in on or off state) and DLPs TV because of polarization.

Maybe it doesn't have anything to do with this, but still, I've never heard complaints about other type of shutter glasses with DLP TVs and now there are two identified problems with DLP Link glasses on this type of TVs. It could be a good idea to find a pair of IR glasses for testing.

Interestingly enough, I'd read about the rainbowing, and IIRC it was the IR glasses that were experiencing that issue (something about polarization of the glasses and the DLP screen surface)? I was aware of this, and have been watching for it..... closely, and I can honestly say I haven't experienced or see any rainbow effects off of the screen w/these glasses.... If I do, I'll be the first to make a post about it because I know that's floating around out there...

I'd like to try some IR, but not sure if I want to dump another $40+ into an emitter just to test some glasses. The sad thing is, even if I did test some IRs, it's likely be the UltraClear that I would start with as they're $59! If I knew someone that had some IRs (and emitter) that I could try on here, I'd do it in a heartbeat. I guess I could always buy some @ BestBuy and return them when done. haha!

GC

No, this effect was due to the DLP Link glasses, that's why I told you several times that you should still consider IR glasses instead of DLP Link.

I don't think you specifically need the Ultra-Clear IR glasses, as I said previously all the IR glasses seem to have the same polarization, which is different from DLP Link glasses. You could simply ask the guy who sold you the TV if he can lend you a pair of Sony/Pana/Samsung/etc. glasses. Considering you bought a $1200 TV from him, I suppose he won't mind...

I gotcha......... I don't think I can borrow a pair of IR glasses from TigerDirect.com

So, as a side note, I'm wondering: Why in the world would they use a different polarization for IR -vs- DLP Link.... let's face it, the primary difference in the glasses is what sensor is on there to receive the sync signal. Strange they would use a polarization on DLP link glasses that is specifically going to cause this rainbow effect when used on DLP screens! While the IR glasses don't cause this effect? That makes no sense.......

Needless to say, I still haven't seen that effect..... and I'm watching for it...... any time there are a light screen/background, I'm looking at the edges, the middle, I'm tilting my head around...... nada...... but I'll keep looking and report back!

GC

Ah, sorry about that, I thought you bought it in a "real" store.

I already explained why, read the AVS forum to have a more complete explanation.

From what I've read it's more evident when there is external light from the sun in the room. If you don't see any rainbowing in these conditions then it's really good news. And it would also mean that the polarization of the glasses is not responsible for the image quality degradation you are experiencing.

And as a side note, again, regarding the original topic of viewing distance, I moved my seating so I'm ~8.5' from the 73" screen, and

A) I'm still surprised at how natural and "appropriate" that site/distance feels

and

B) I've had an HDTV and HD service for quite a while... and it always looked really good..... at this distance/screensize, it just looks incredibly good. Well, to rephrase, I'm surprised HD looks so good on such a large screen from such a "close" distance.

I believe the charts here sum it up......

http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter

Blu-Ray as you can imagine is the best (lowest compression). Premium channels on Sat are really good, but even on those you see compression artifacting you wouldn't see on BD. What I'll call "lower-end" Premium channels (i.e. Encore) and what I'll call "Premium Cable" channels (like TNT/TBS/ESPN) seem to get the next notch down on the bandwidth allocation, then other non-premium cable channels (like HGTV/Food/VH1) seem to get the bottom of the barrel. So, not all 1080 is created equal........ =)

But, just watched Matrix Revolutions on TNT, Iron Man earlier on a "premium" cable channel, and Starship Troopers on Encore, and overall found that I kept saying in my head "Wow. this just looks really good!"

GC

I'm looking to pick up some more DLP-Link glasses. Do the Ultra-Clear DLP Link glasses require you to use the flip mode on your TV? or do the glasses have a why to flip themselves?

The UltraClear DLPLink glasses do not have a button or a way to "invert" the stereo. However, I'm only aware of one pair of glasses (the Viewsonics) that do that, and they're IR. So if you have other DLPLink glasses, then using them with UltraClear glasses shouldn't present any issues.

GC

Thanks for the reply. I was just a little worried because the DLP link glasses I have now do work with the IR glasses that came in the Mitsubishi starter kit. The website selling the UltraClear DLPLink glasses said they can not be used with IR glasses because of shuttering the opposite eye, so I was a little worried at first. Well I guess I'll go and take the plunge and get a few pairs. They look almost like the ones I have, just blue.

What type of DLP Link glasses do you have now? I know the Mits sets will let you flip the stereo sync. However, that DLP sync signal sent out in the video, to my knowledge, trigger all DLP link glasses the same. The only exception to this would be the Viewsonic DLP Link glasses that allow you to flip L/R sync on the glasses themselves.

Can someone else verify if this is the case (i.e. if you're using one set of DLP link glasses, aside from the Viewsonics, then the UltraClears would sync just like the other DLP link glasses and work for him.)??

I'd contact Carl at Ultimate 3D Heaven and ask him directly before buying. YOu can reach him at: ultimate3dh@yahoo.com.

GC

There still seems to be some confusion on how DLP-Link even works. You might want to see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12091&start=0

That thread would seem to verify my first quote (above) and some of my assumptions..... that the DLP link would only (and could only) do it's white flash on either the left or right, but not both, since doing on both wouldn't provide any "sync" info, while doing on one would.

One of those posts says you need to adjust the sync every time you start a new movie or game or there's a glitch, and that's flat out wrong. I think I had to reverse the L/R in the TV when I first did 3D, and ever since then I've never had to change it and it works for all movies, games, etc...... (now, to your point, perhaps the 3D adapter I'm using is normalizing whatever comes in since it's outputting checkerboard format.)

Oh well, it's all good.

GC

Well you are using a checkerboard format RPTV, so there is not a problem there. This is because the left/right sync is encoded into the transmission format (checkerboard). The problem happens with front projectors, since they are not able to encode the signal into a standard page-flipped output. So the projector itself has no idea what frame is left or right. So while it may be able to tell the glasses to switch to the right eye, it can't verify that its displaying the right image at the same time.

These are the glasses that I am currently using, model VA-DD1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G2VJM6

I was hopping to buy more, but they are sold out everywhere I have been looking. They look just like the Ultra-Clear DLP Link glasses. It was just the part of the description for the glasses mentioning that they will not work with IR glasses at the same time that worried me. Everything mentioned here sounds like I'll be fine regardless of which DLP Link glasses I purchase.