Razer Hydra teardown.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:38 am

I finally got up the time to pull my Hydra apart. Heres the teardown.

Using a knife tip I extracted the rubber plugs that cover the screw holes.

DSCF0024.JPG

I undid two screws and pulled the two plastic halves apart. There are two parts, a main circuit board and a board with the buttons on. Be careful with the ribbon cable connecting the two, don't let the button hang on it or twist it. In this picture, i'm pointing with the screwdriver to the 8 connector cable i'm referring to. Its uses a clamp mount on both boards (you gently pry up the sides of the mount to release it).

DSCF0031.JPG

The main chips visible on the board

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The overall layout etc

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The coils that do the sensin'

DSCF0035.JPG

Main power cable, also note the black wire that must be desoldered to remove the cable from the handset shell.

DSCF0043.JPG

Why you must desolder the wire. Also note the metal weight that I suspect is used by the base unit to sense magnetically when the handsets are placed on it.

DSCF0044.JPG

Now the button unit which is connected by the 8 connector ribbon cable.

There are two screws to remove, then you need to release a couple of plastic tabs and then you can pull off the top cover.

2011-11-28 23.24.02.jpg

After that, a couple more screws and tabs let you pull off the trigger unit and gain access to the bottom of the board.

2011-11-28 23.27.25.jpg

Please note that I've already determined that the Hydra will not operate without the ribbon cable in place.
EDIT 5/4/2013: you can use it without the ribbon cable if you do the Janoc 'resistor mod'. Details further along in this thread.

Post by **cbwan** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:53 am

I also tried to teardown my Hydra, wanted to use one for head-tracking without the buttons.

It seems John Carmack was able to get a modified version of the SDK to use the hydra without the buttons (check his twitter).

Post by **cybereality** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:10 pm

Awesome work man, I can't wait to see what comes of this. I don't have the balls to take a knife to my Hydra, but I fully support what you are doing.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:14 pm

Cheers CyberReality.

I had another play last night (found my multimeter). I can now be fairly certain that the ribbon cable is not just passing through the wires etc. It seems the buttons, sticks etc, go into a chip, that then communicates down this wire. This means we probably cannot just remove/replace this module unless we can figure out the format its sending etc.

I think if I leave the button module connected, but desolder the heavy stick and potentiometers and replace them with resistors, it should be a good workaround that will enable us to use the hydra without all the guff we dont need. The biggest problem will be that the drivers require you to pull the trigger to calibrate the Hydra. This means you need to spin the potentiometer to calibrate it. For now, i'll probably leave this particular potentiometer in place, or see if I can replace it with a 2 resistor circuit so when pressing a button it changes its resistance, showing as a trigger pull. For a gun setup, you could just desolder the sticks/pots, extend them with wires, and use them elsewhere on your gun.

I successfully taped the hydra module to my P5 glove last night and used it. It was great being able to use the P5 finally without it strobing all around the place. I think I'll end up mounting the other Hydra to my HMD or 3D glasses, for full head tracking.

Post by **cybereality** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:32 pm

Very nice. What a dream it would be if the P5 actually worked like you'd imagine.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:18 pm

Ok, last night I got so frustrated at my inability to desolder the joystick module (it has 14 metal contacts that ALL need to be fully desoldered to remove it) so I ended up cutting the pins and contacts with the chisel on my trusty swiss army knife. Now, I have a Hydras guts stuffed into a little cardboard box case I whipped up as a test. The weight is now about 28g, which is fine. At present, i'm trying to get my P5 glove going under 64 bit - once I do, I'll mount it on the P5 to see if I can make my P5 track well. I'll probably post an experience report soon using it in mouselook mode as a head tracker as well.

Post by **Johnny-Mnemonic** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:34 pm

WiredEarp wrote:i'm trying to get my P5 glove going under 64 bit - once I do, I'll mount it on the P5 to see if I can make my P5 track well. I'll probably post an experience report soon using it in mouselook mode as a head tracker as well.

My P5 works great with Win 64bit, try to install P5 Sandbox demo, it will install all needed drivers automatically: http://3dvrm.com/p5sandbox/

Post by **WiredEarp** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:53 pm

Thanks - I *thought* it used to work fine under Windows 7 64 bit! Not sure whats wrong as it works fine on my XP install. I'll try deleting hardware drivers from device manager and see if that helps (have tried ALL the drivers including sandbox, P5, GlovePIE etc, with similar results - when bending fingers to a certain angle, it crashes all of these drivers ;(

Post by **WiredEarp** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 7:32 am

Ok, I have fixed my Razer Hydra! The 'flex cable' that connects the boards had developed a kink and caused a connection to fail.

To fix it, I cut my flex cable in half at the kink, then used a craft knife to carefully scrape the insulation away from the copper traces. Eventually, I ended up with a 1/2 length flex cable that worked. The length is a bit short but I know now I can extend it if necessary... I won't bother however as I'll try extending the sensor only as PalmerTech has had success doing. Looking forward to getting my hydra sensing again!

Post by **CyberVillain** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:01 am

Time to write a FreePIE plugin then

Post by **PalmerTech** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:11 pm

Great! Look forward to seeing another extended sensor.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:23 pm

I'm really looking forward to it, but I can't find a decent, fine enough cable, with 6 conductors, currently. Will have a good look through my spares boxes tonight, if I can't find one will have to see what I can buy that will do the job. I want it as lightweight as possible to avoid cable stiffness.

Post by **PalmerTech** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:36 pm

You only need 4 conductors, all the coils share a common ground.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:30 pm

Cool, thanks PalmerTech was just wondering about that, but couldn't find your mod post till now (needed to do a search). That makes it much easier, got lots of 4 and 5 connector thin cables but no 6 ones.

I notice that the dev kit from Sixense actually supports 4 sensors, not two. I wonder how much it would cost for one of those, or if it will be possible to buy or mod the Hydra to allow an extra 2 sensors (eg, if we could change the frequency, we could possibly run 2 hydra bases together). Long shot I know however, but 4 sensors would be extremely useful. I could then have one on the head, one on a glove, another on the gun, and the forth one as a hip sensor to measure turning, jumping, and crouching.

I might try and mod mine today. If so, I'll post some more stuff in this thread about it, to make it easier for others to find info re the mod.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:25 am

Soldered mine up, but i'm getting interference at certain positions. It could be the old cable I used had a flaw in it (I used a very thin headset cable, mabye thats why that headset was in my spares box, but it multimetered out correctly and the interference seems to occur regardless of cable kink) or it could be that the cable is too long, or not shielded. I suspect the shielding, as it seems if i wave the cable around, it alters the position of the hyda.

I'll have to try again with a shielded mouse cable I have.

Has anyone else experienced that the simple3d application will flicker at a certain point? I noticed this before I started modding my hydra... if you get your controller and pan it around 360 degree, there is a point (at least on mine) where it starts flickering between positions. I get the same effect with the other controller at opposite sides of the compass. I think its just a bug in simple3d but would be interested to confirm that other people can reproduce the issue...

Post by **cybereality** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:39 am

Yeah, I would get jitter sometimes in the sample application (also in my own app) but I in my case it was getting interference from an ASUS 120Hz monitor. But even without that monitor, I remember getting jitter problems only in Windows Vista, and if I booted into 7 (same PC) it would be gone. Very strange.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:59 pm

Yep, I'm wondering if its a calculation error in the demo app. I have noticed however there was a glitch zone when playing L4D (when i turned to a certain point and angle, experienced a slight 'flicker' between positions) which wasn't really noticable during play but only during very slow turns looking at a certain angle. So, maybe the problem is actually in the drivers etc.

One thing that annoys me is that even with this sep tracker mod, the tracker still doesn't read 'straight' ahead. This is because you naturally hold the Hydra @ 30 degrees or so, so the tracker is actually pointing 'up' by that amount when you put the coils etc flat. I'll resolve this by mounting the tracker @ a 30 degree angle, something to be aware of however. It would be nice if there was a hack or a new version of the SDK released that:

a) allowed us to activate the trackers without the calibration step (which is only for determining which side of the base the handsets are on I believe)

b) allowed us to correct the angle for when using the tracker separately

Post by **android78** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:07 pm

Just wondering if anyone has pulled apart the base unit to see how small it could possible be reconfigured? ie. taking the working parts out of the shell, would it be feasible to mount to a HMD?

Post by **WiredEarp** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:51 pm

Why would you want to mount the base unit to a HMD?

Post by **android78** » Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:40 am

My thinking is that the main relationship I would want for VR is the relationship between the view and the hands. The rest of the relationships don't really matter.
When in a first person view, if you are using joysticks for the gross movements (moving forward, backward, and turning the center point of your head view), and the hands for weapon/interactions then you really just need to know where your hands are compared to your eyes.
Doing it this way also negates the issues with gyroscope drifting, etc.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Wed Aug 22, 2012 5:53 pm

When in a first person view, if you are using joysticks for the gross movements (moving forward, backward, and turning the center point of your head view), and the hands for weapon/interactions then you really just need to know where your hands are compared to your eyes.

I guess that could work. It would mean that your hands moved when your head did, but the way it sounds like Doom3 BFG is set up, it might not matter.

Post by **android78** » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:49 pm

WiredEarp wrote:...
I guess that could work. It would mean that your hands moved when your head did, but the way it sounds like Doom3 BFG is set up, it might not matter.

In real life, if you turn your head left, then you see your hands go right. So, in my opinion, this is what is important in VR. Just like if you move your hands left, you see them go left.

Post by **janoc** » Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:41 pm

Guys, if you are feeling adventurous, you can try this mod I have found:

http://janoc.rd-h.com/archives/212

It allows to reliably use the board without having the joystick/microcontroller board attached. I have tested it with the VRPN driver and it works OK.

However, don't blame me if the Hydra blows up in your face, you burn you apartment down with a soldering iron or your warranty becomes void.

If you have questions, contact me either by e-mail or on the website above, I rarely read these forums. Alternatively, post the question the the VRGeeks (http://www.vrgeeks.org/) mailing list.

Regards,

Jan

Post by **WiredEarp** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:01 am

Great tip Jan! Good to see someone with your skills working on Hydra modding.

I tried it under Windows using the Hydra SDK, but it still didn't seem to enable the board. I'll see if I can use a 3rd party Hydra driver or VRPN driver to see if I can get it working under Windows using that trick.

I've been playing with the Hydra SDK recently, and have figured out that you can enable the Hydra without going through the 'initialization/calibration' steps, by using the SDK directly. This means that you dont need to do stuff like clicking buttons, pulling triggers, etc, to calibrate it, which will be handy in some situations. Also, this means you can use one of your Hydra sensors even if the other is faulty, which is good news for those who have broken one of our Hydras. I've written myself a tiny little console test app to use in my testing, as the built in 'simple3d' demo uses the SDK helper classes and thus prompts for calibration etc, so you cannot use the demo so easily on modified Hydras. I'm sure someone who knows something about how the helper classes work (along with freeGLUT) could simply alter the simple3d demo to use the direct SDK calls to do the same thing. If someone does this, let me know. I coudn't be bothered figuring out the sample so just wrote my own. On a side note, I really hate 'sample' code which is overly complex, and also sample code that calls to 'helper classes'. FFS, give me sample code that uses the direct SDK and nothing else!!

Next up for me will be testing Jan's mod on my other Hydra board, just to rule out a problem with the board itself. If that doesn't pan out still, I'll investigate other solutions such as VRPN or direct HID drivers for the Hydra. If we can get Jan's mod running, it will greatly simplify Hydra modding - instead of having 2 boards (one with the joystick cut off), or having to cut the sensors off and wire in an extension cable, we could just remove the extra board, put the wire mod in place, and put a box around the whole board - problem solved. Its long (about 2"?) but will be thin and lightweight, and I dont really see the need for making it much smaller, unless you want to mount it to something like a finger.

Post by **MSat** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 1:32 pm

Please post back with your findings, WiredEarp. I'm having a hard time understanding why the Hydra would keep the "Enable" pin on the mux pulled high.

Post by **Chriky** » Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:36 am

What a great hack Jan, I will have to try that one out.

Post by **janoc** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:50 am

Hello guys,

I have done some more work on this. If you are going to try to replicate the hack, please, use a 10k resistor instead of the plain wire as in my website post. I am updating the website right now.

The problem with the Hydra is a bit deeper than I thought - the base will not power up the controller properly (no voltage on pin 7 of the cable connector), not just lacking power for the pull-up resistor. The hack I did brings some voltage from the serial line (not sure why that one is powered, maybe a pull-up in the base) to the main power rail. That is sufficient to make the Hydra to turn the power on and power the board normally - you can actually remove the wire once the controller is powered up and it stays working. It was often enough to touch the serial line pin with my multimeter probe and the power has turned on. To be safe, it is best to use a 10k resistor for this - in that way you won't be shorting the serial line to the power rail and it will not affect the joystick board if you keep it attached.

Why is it working like this I have no idea - I suppose the base either checks for the presence of the controller before turning the power on, relying on some sort of "back-powering" the microcontroller through the serial line pins or it needs a defined voltage on the cable which isn't there when the joystick board is removed. If anyone has an insight into what is going on here, I am all ears.

Jan

Post by **janoc** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:09 am

MSat wrote:Please post back with your findings, WiredEarp. I'm having a hard time understanding why the Hydra would keep the "Enable" pin on the mux pulled high.

Actually, I have figured out what it does.

The mux is controlled by two pins: /EN (active low) and IN

/EN is controlled directly by the base. Holding it high (pull-up) keeps the Dx (x = 1-4) outputs floating (high-impedance state). When low, this pin activates the mux and connects the Dx pins to one of the SxA or SxB pins, depending on the state of the IN pin. When IN is low, Dx is connected to the SxA pin, when high, to the SxB pin.

IN is controlled by the microcontroller.

The way the opamps are configured through the mux allows the micro to either short the opamp inputs through a 680ohm resistor (effectively disabling the coils) when IN is high or to allow normal functioning (bypassing the 680ohm resistor) when IN is low. What I have observed was that the base turns the /EN pin low when the device is opened (e.g. the vrpn_server is started) and the IN pin constantly low - the coil signals are enabled. When the device is closed, the /EN goes high, disabling the mux (but not the coils), effectively disconnecting the MCU from the board and connecting a 680ohm resistor in series with the inverting inputs of the opamps. I will post a preliminary schematics later today, it will be hopefully clearer.

I have never seen a transition on the IN line, but the VRPN driver uses very little functionality from the Hydra. Perhaps it is used in some undocumented mode (e.g. the gamepad mode? That one doesn't use the coils.) or a left-over from the days when the SDK was wireless - maybe the micro was disabling the coils while it was transmitting info to the base, in order to not cause spurious data being received because of the voltages induced by transmission in the sensing coils. Who knows.

The above holds for the 3 switches in the mux, the 4th one is used only as a pass-through for one of the opamps because of the way the board is routed - essentially a "wire" jumper.

Post by **janoc** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:49 pm

OK, the revised article is here:
http://janoc.rd-h.com/archives/212

If someone tries this hack, I am interested in hearing the results.

Jan

Post by **Lilwolf** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:46 pm

Any chance did you tear apart the base?

Is there a reason you need that big bulb?

And another question, can you run it with just one hand?

Post by **janoc** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:55 pm

Lilwolf wrote:Any chance did you tear apart the base?

Is there a reason you need that big bulb?

And another question, can you run it with just one hand?

The base - I didn't myself, but few people did. There is a big Blackfin CPU/DSP in there + some interface circuitry.

"Bulb" - I think you mean the sphere that houses the magnetic field emitters (three crossed coils). Yes, you need that, LOL. The sensors in the controllers are measuring signals from those coils :-p

What do you mean "run it with just one hand"? I think you could potentially remove/unplug one of the controllers, it will work (they are independent), but you will be getting nonsense data on that channel.

Jan

Post by **WiredEarp** » Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:31 pm

@ Janoc:

I tried the 10K resistor hack, but it didn't work at all using the Hydra Windows drivers/SDK. No data was returned at all. I'll try to find an alternative HID driver or VRPN driver, or try the VRPN driver under Linux, and let you know how I get on then. The hack did seem to play well with leaving the cable connected or disconnected.

the VRPN driver uses very little functionality from the Hydra. Perhaps it is used in some undocumented mode (e.g. the gamepad mode? That one doesn't use the coils)

I'm not sure what you mean here by 'not use the coils'? How could the VRPN driver return any useful data if its not using the coils, which are really the sensor part?

Post by **janoc** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:34 am

WiredEarp wrote:@ Janoc:

I tried the 10K resistor hack, but it didn't work at all using the Hydra Windows drivers/SDK. No data was returned at all. I'll try to find an alternative HID driver or VRPN driver, or try the VRPN driver under Linux, and let you know how I get on then. The hack did seem to play well with leaving the cable connected or disconnected.

That's actually strange - if you have the joystick board cable connected, then the SDK is supposed to work - as if nothing has changed. Are you sure you haven't shorted something out? Also the flat flex cable is quite fragile, be careful no to break it. However, it is still possible that the official driver tries to check for something and doesn't enable the controller if the condition is not met - the strange issue with the powering the controller on seems to point in that direction. The VRPN driver doesn't use the official SDK/drivers, so it may work - you don't even have to install the Hydra software for VRPN to work.

I'm not sure what you mean here by 'not use the coils'? How could the VRPN driver return any useful data if its not using the coils, which are really the sensor part?

What I mean is that the official Hydra driver supports the "gamepad" mode, where it emulates a regular windows gamepad and the tracking is disabled. Maybe the IN line is used then to disable the coils in order to reduce the noise in the digital lines running in parallel over the controller cable. VRPN doesn't work in that mode, obviously - it actually tries to change the mode to the motion controller one if it finds the controller in that state. Thus it could explain why I haven't seen any transitions/signal on the IN line with the VRPN driver.

Post by **WiredEarp** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:31 pm

That's actually strange - if you have the joystick board cable connected, then the SDK is supposed to work - as if nothing has changed.

Yep, sorry, was probably not very clear. With the resistor mod and the flex cable out, I get nothing from the Hydra. With the resistor mod and the flex cable in, it works seemingly normally.
Unfortunately i've already broken one of my flex cables so that particular Hydra controller is pretty much unusable. Its a shame as its the one with the modded sensors on the extension cable. I dont want to take the micro cable from the other one, you only have to look at that thing wrong for it to fail. Wish I could figure out a way to replace it with real wires, but its way smaller than my soldering skill, and I dont know anywhere to find a replacement for the flexcable.

Interesting re the game controller mode, I understand you now. Ill let you know how I get on once I've had a chance to try the VRPN drivers etc (also think I came across a opensource HID driver for windows for the Hydra so that might be worth looking at as well).

Post by **janoc** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:37 am

WiredEarp wrote: Yep, sorry, was probably not very clear. With the resistor mod and the flex cable out, I get nothing from the Hydra. With the resistor mod and the flex cable in, it works seemingly normally.

Are you sure you have soldered the resistor to the right pads? This seems to me as it has no effect whatsoever. Could you re-check this, please?

WiredEarp wrote: Interesting re the game controller mode, I understand you now. Ill let you know how I get on once I've had a chance to try the VRPN drivers etc (also think I came across a opensource HID driver for windows for the Hydra so that might be worth looking at as well).

The opensource HID driver for Hydra is likely the one from Ryan Pavlik. He has also written the original VRPN code for Hydra based on that and then I have added some filtering and hemisphere tracking to it - the performance should be pretty much comparable to the official SDK, without having to depend on their GUI tools. Plus, as an added benefit, the VRPN driver works on any VRPN platform that is supported by their HID code, that is at least Windows, Linux and probably Mac too.

Regards,

Jan

Post by **AiRay** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:42 am

Hi to everyone,
I've tested the janoc mod, but unfortunately the device is not working without the joystick board connected.

I've tested the device with VRPN both in Linux with the code available from git (since the Ubuntu package is not compiled against HIDAPI) and on windows with the nightly build (available from here http://hci.iastate.edu/~rpavlik/downloa ... -nightlies ).
On windows I've also tested the "stable" release and compiled the git with Visual Studio 2008, both are providing the same results as previous ones.

The device is sending random data, both position and orientation data have no sense.

The device still not working after removing the resistor and connected back the microcontroller board

I'm going to test the same software setup with another Hydra (brand new) later today.

If you have any suggestions please let me know

Thanks in advance

AiRay

Post by **janoc** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:15 am

AiRay wrote:Hi to everyone,
I've tested the janoc mod, but unfortunately the device is not working without the joystick board connected.

That's not good news

Thanks for testing, though!

AiRay wrote: The device is sending random data, both position and orientation data have no sense.

Yes, that is what I have seen too when the joystick board is unplugged.

AiRay wrote: The device still not working after removing the resistor and connected back the microcontroller board

Now this is odd - that could mean that you have either inserted the flat flex cable into the connector incorrectly or damaged the thing somehow in the process (the FFC cables are very fragile!). Normally the device should work again once you plug the joystick board back and unplug/replug Hydra into the PC to reset it.

AiRay wrote: I'm going to test the same software setup with another Hydra (brand new) later today.

If you have any suggestions please let me know

What you could do is to check whether the board is actually getting power - connect a multimeter between the V+ and V- pins on the opamps and it should show about 3.3V. The pins are marked here: http://janoc.rd-h.com/wp-content/upload ... pdated.png. Usually what happens is that the controller doesn't get powered up properly and you will see no voltage across those pins. You may try to reduce the value of the resistor to e.g. 6k8 or 4k7 - that should be still safe.

Alternatively, if you have access to the oscilloscope, you could check whether the opamps are actually producing any meaningful signals - hook the scope up to the outputs and you should be able to see something similar to the traces here (under the "Detour to magnetic tracking"):
http://janoc.rd-h.com/archives/212

Post by **AiRay** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:25 am

I've put a second 10k resistor in parallel with the first one, and now I have approximately 3.3V between V+ and V- of both op-amps.

Unfortunately the measurements from the device are still not usable.

I have a second Hydra and the same SW setup is working perfectly.
I don't have time to test the device with the oscilloscope this week, I hope to be able to do some deeper testing next week.

Anyway thanks for the support!

AiRay

Post by **janoc** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:59 am

AiRay wrote:I've put a second 10k resistor in parallel with the first one, and now I have approximately 3.3V between V+ and V- of both op-amps.

Unfortunately the measurements from the device are still not usable.

Weird

Well, at least we know that the controller is powered up now. I guess the 10k resistor is too much for the pull-up and it needs to be smaller for reliable operation. Good to know.

Another thing to look at would be the state of the control pins of the mux - maybe the mux is blocked? Both /EN and IN lines need to be low (around 0.7V or less) for the mux to be open and the coil signals to be transmitted to the base. IN is pulled low by default by a resistor unless the micro on the joystick board drives it high, which will obviously not happen if the joystick board is disconnected. However, the /EN is pulled high by default and the base controls it. Maybe it doesn't go low on your Hydra for some reason (bad connection somewhere?). For me it went low the moment the device was opened in software and changed into the tracking (not gamepad) mode - VRPN does that when the server is started.

AiRay wrote: I have a second Hydra and the same SW setup is working perfectly.
I don't have time to test the device with the oscilloscope this week, I hope to be able to do some deeper testing next week.

I assume the other Hydra is stock, unmodified? If you are using VRPN, the vrpn_print_devices utility is a good test - when the controller is working, you should be receiving stable data. When it isn't, the numbers are just changing randomly.

Keep me posted about how the testing with the scope goes - you should see the coil signals clearly when the controller is powered up.

AiRay wrote: Anyway thanks for the support!
AiRay

You are welcome

Jan

Post by **bencrossman** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:54 pm

We are trying to use the Hydra in a CAVE environment. Obviously we'd need a wireless version of the board eventually (we can wait though) but does anyone know if the device works if you extend the controller cable? Like 2.5m?

Cheers
Ben