well if the wisdom at nVidia is to drop CRT Support I will never update my drivers unless I get some new DLP Projectors..

I need the CRT Support for my system to work in S3D..and now I found out I may not need the Matrox TH2Go I maybe able to get another Vid card and try my setup with SLI and see if I can get it working and with a higher Resolution then I use now..

It will be a little better then 720P at 3840 x 960.. so hopefully that will work.. I just got the new Bulbs today so I will NOT be Upgrading for at least a year..

Also Updating is NOT really required as most new games I do NOT play..

edit: just realised you said this:



I'm wondering if the difference is possibly people not setting their 3D screen to be primary. Either that, or Nvidia have snuck in generic support into their latest drivers! I NO COMPLAINO!!! Great to hear its working for you!

Now all I need is someone to tell me if Headplay works as well in this mode!!! I am very happy to be able to use my Z800 with modern games.

Well I kinda took that for granite this time and it was already selected as Primary..Perhaps last time I did this was not selected as Primary as I have the same EDID Plug and same DLP Projectrs??

Perhaps the support is there for CRT from nVidia?? I don't know but it works and looking to get another Vid card to try this trick under SLI.. If it works with SLI I will have a blast playing the old sims in a new Res..Good to try to test the limits of the i5 I have currently Over Clocked to 4.4ghz..

Hey, I tested these glasses from 3dtv corp. I guess they must have been defective because only the left eye was blinking. I think that is why they would not sync or that first I thought they were not blinking fast enough. I thought maybe I could see if there was a loose wire or something but they have a computer interface ribbon cable and now after bending them out of shape the left eye is half solid black, so still defective. Strange but I don't even think these are the right 3dtv corp U2 glasses cause they look totally different from what they show you will get and they would work on nvidia 3d computers but there is no polarity switch even not saying so in the booklet.

Honestly though these glasses are way crappier than nvidias and probably only worth like 10 dollars at most compared to nvidias glasses. I guess thats why china has such a good economy cause they reap the rest of the world with their half working products that sell for what seems like a good asking price but the overall product is a disjointed smash together.

Also bad for the people to me at 3dtv corp for transacting products that make them rich and piss off the customers. I won't be buying more glasses from these guys at 3dtvp corp as now and hope they get whats coming to them. What a foolish company.

I may have to laugh a good deal about this and Nephilim, I am not mad at you at all. I was the one who wanted to test these glasses out in the first place so I wanted to make sure on my word that I would not try and deceive you out of money for what seems like poor conduct from 3dtv corp. So I just wanted to be sure not to get in the habit of telling people on mtbs3d forums to open their wallets to unconventional tactics.

i'll just keep these glasses on my back burner, its not like I won't get what I really want. Lawl.

Thanks for bearing with me, its been like almost 3 months with that 3dtv corp nonesense.

WEll I am NOT mad but kinda MAd that they did NOT work and turned out to be defective..

If you want some of the money back let me know I will at least refung the Price for the Glasses least I can do.. But it will take some time to get the money into Paypal so let me know. I can Refund the 50 or so bucks foir the cost of the glasses..

The Inverter switch was supposed to also be the ON/Off Switch.. it was in that little paper that came with the glasses.. I guess once the glasses where ON you would press again to inver the Glasses???

Kinda Sucks I had High Hopes for these Glasses and the guy was gonna send me some more Guess Ill right him back and tell him to forget it..

It's ok I don't want you to give me any money back. I was the one who found them and recommended them to you and I actually thought they would work right and maybe they will. I just don't think 3ddtv corp sent you the right glasses in the first place and also these glasses I have look to be the 3rd party Nvidia 3dtv corp glasses not the U2 universal 3dv corp glasses.

The only reason to pay around 50-60 dollars for the real nvidia universal U2 glasses would be for the polarity switch. And if 3dtv corp ain't sending them to their customers then I don't think theres a real point in ordering from them. And also with their lack of quality control on sending defective glasses.

So it might be worth it to get glasses from 3dtv corp, but it might turn out to be more of a hastle than its worth.

I'm also gonna be getting an extra 400 a month starting april, so I'll have enough money to get some other glasses. Don't be to mad nephilim, i'm letting it go. We can just say that this 3dtv corp to people is a kinda Rippy off company with bad quality control.

OK Dom Thank you and hopefully we can find solutions to our Setups.. I am trying to save for some NEw 120HZ 3D Certified Projectors but these works so well.. I hate just getting rid of stuff when it works you know??

Yes, I only wanted a 3d ready projector cause then I could play some 3d ready games with my xbox controller and watch blu-ray 3d movies properly. I still need to buy a 3dtv, maybe this summer. I been watching alot of tv on my projector and my bulb will burn to much if I continue watching it possibly 9 hours a day or so.

I still want to build an old school nvidia 3d setup but I already have 6 computers and adding another one is kind of not likely atm.

I also need like 4 pairs of nvidia glasses, I just wish I could buy them in my city stores.

Maybe with windows 8 some of the 3d hardware will be thourhput better with eye swap.

Hi The_Nephilim and Dom,

(I just had to google Nephilim, ha)

I wonder if either of you is willing to try a registry tweak. If so, then use your registry editor and go to [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D] and set GlassesSwitchDelay to 27 decimal and see if that causes parallax inversion. Reset this to 0 when done testing just to be on the safe side. It worked with old-school drivers but was not really usable for me because it had frequent shuttering irregularities (the hiccups) and so I sort of doubt that it will work for you but it might be worth a try. More info on it here (search page for "parallax inversion"):
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3355

I don't have 3dVIsion so I can't test it myself.

So Neph, you have wired glasses now? What is the connector like. If the glasses are simple then you can use a hardware fix:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4661

good luck,

--- iondrive ---

well I tried your Fix Ion but it did not appear to do anything

I am still using the Wireless Glasses at the moment.. I had thought that the Wired glasses would fix the Parralex inversion?? I am not sure if it will or not but worth a shot..

Hi neph,

well I'm glad you tried this anyway even though it didn't work. But wait, did you reset GlassesSwitchDelay to 0? If not, try hitting alt-equals a few times, like 7 or 10. If that changes something, then hit alt-minus (not the numpad minus) to undo it. I tried this on my winXP computer and it does work to invert the parallax but I get temporary flicker / sync-loss when I hit the Alt key. Other than that, I think it should be usable that way. I tested it using various resolutions and frequencies and a value 27 or above should have worked with all of them. In many cases lower numbers like 20 or 16 also worked but another way to use it is to set it to "1" and use Alt-equals like 4 or 5 times to invert. Anyway, when you're done, reset GlassesSwitchDelay to 0 and move on. Too bad nvidia sometimes takes out useful features.

My humblest apologies if this caused your ghosting problem in your other thread. I don't see how it could possibly do any real damage. Resetting that registry value should fix it if it is the problem. I'll edit my previous post to tell people to reset it to 0.

--- iondrive ---

hi again, how about some humor?

I've solved it!!!
if you're gaming with a projector at 120 Hz, then all you need to do is move your screen back 1,250 kilometers and the round-trip speed of light time will be 1/120th of a second and your glasses will be in sync! YAY!!! You could orbit the moon with an altitude of 777 miles and point a super-bright projector straight down onto the surface but that would only work on the dark side of the orbit and the moon's not perfectly flat anyway. Oh wait, this won't work for you since you're gaming at 75 Hz. Nevermind. Shucks, I thought I had it.

I had another joke but I forgot what it was. Anyway I've been researching this and it looks like that registry trick only works with old-school drivers. But from one of your previous posts, what did you mean by "I tried the method as described at 3d flight sim website"? So did you use a VGA v-sync detector/inverter box and connect it's 3-pin port to the stereo-sync input jack of the 3dvision usb emitter box? If not, do you have that "3-pin VESA to 2.5 mm stereo jack" cable? It looks like that's your best/only option for non-upsidedown glasses. Do you have an old dongle? If you can't get that signal delay/inverter box, then it looks like you have to use your old dongle with that cable and the stereo input jack on the usb hub after you invert the sync pulse with an inverter chip or other. You know all this already right? The only thing I wonder is if you need to select something in the driver menus to get the hub to use the sync input signal or does it just always use it automatically whenever it's plugged in?

display ID spoofing?
Question: Does the 3dvision system ever invert the sync correctly on it's own with some designated "3dvision ready" DLP pj's or do all those need to use the sync input jack too? If they do not, then maybe you could trick the system into thinking it has that kind of DLP. I'm afraid I don't know much in this area so can't really help you. I only know that others have done some kind of display ID trickery for other reasons. I know you're already "spoofing" it to look like a CRT but that's a hardware spoof. There's a software spoof out that that I would have to research more about but I have to move on to other things. I guess you have to use the dongle/inverter/cable/stereo-input method until someone figures that out. It's a bummer to turn on the sync with ED-Activator all the time. Sorry I couldn't help more.

--- iondrive ---

Well I have the E-Dimensional KIT with Dongle. I also have the 3 pin inverter for the ED Wireless glasses from the 3D Flight Sim website.. As for the Other post can you link it too me?? I am not sure what I tried but it was on the 3D flight Sim website and that site has changed???


I tried this:

1. Hooked ED Dongle to VGA Port
2. Hooked 3 Pin VESA to 2.5mm Stereo plug to nVidia Emitter..
3. Tried with BOTh wired ED Glasses and the nVidia Wireless glasses..

The ED Glasses did NOT turn ON but I also tried using the ED Activator that did NOTHING??

What else do you have up your Sleeve.. or If I hooked it up wrong Please let me know..

ok let's see,

Is this the right flight simulator post you're thinking of?
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2907&p=22567&hilit=simulator#p22567
In post 1, in the section on Ghosting, (using other words) he mentions connecting the dongle to the usb box and then talks about some circuitry in the next section.

You don't have this box, right?
http://nextstepsolutions.co.uk/home/node/11

You have an inverter that plugs into the dongle, and then you can connect from the inverter to the 3dvision usb box. Is that right?


OK let's work on this some more.
Step 1 - Get the eDim glasses shuttering.
Hmmm, why is the Activator not working? Resolution and frequency shouldn't matter much but tell me what they are anyway as well as bit depth. Are you running 3 displays? If so, then do you see colored lines on the tops of all three displays when you run ED-Activator? If not, then make sure the colored lines appear on the display that the dongle is attached to. Disconnect the 3-pin DIN just in case there's something weird happening that's interfering with the dongle's workings. Right now, we're just trying to get a good signal from the dongle. Just use the wired eDim glasses for now. If the dongle's still not working, then check your display settings and shut off antialiasing or any similar image-processing that might be screwing with the colored lines. You're not running your displays in interlaced mode are you? If it's still not working we may have to resort to using mplayer to turn on your glasses. Do you have a version of mplayer? You might and not know it. Do a file search for it under your "Program Files" folder. I'll stop here and wait for an update. Sorry I let this weekend slip by before responding. I'll respond more quickly in the following days.

Blue Line Code Support:
Here's two more questions that might be important:
Do you know if your dongle is newer than 2009?
Can you use sView to check if your dongle responds to blue-line code as described in this thread?
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14503

If we're really lucky, we might get to the point where you can toggle eye-sync with a hotkey for DX9 games.

--- iondrive ---

Humorous:
I remembered the other impossible way to fix your problem but it requires a 4th dimension of space. If you could push your glasses into the 4th dimension and then rotate them in the right way, then you could pull them back into normal space and they would be a mirror image of themselves and the shutters would be oppositely positioned and your problem would be solved... OK, that's not that funny. Oh I see what happened, I confused funny with nerdy.

What didn't work:
OK, I admit I actually tried this. As mentioned elsewhere, I have two PJs and one has both input and output VGA ports. I thought for a second that the projector might delay the VGA signal by one frame so that I could feed the signal through one PJ to the other so that the signal would be delayed a total of 2 frames and the glasses would be in sync but it doesn't work that way. The signal going out is in phase with the signal going it so that both projected images are inverted (in phase with each other). Oh well. Nice try. Are there any other devices that delay a VGA signal by one frame. I can't think of any.

OK I got the EDimensional Wired Glasses working with the ED Dongle.. I have to use the ED Activator but it works..3072x768 32bit 75HZ 3 DLP Projectors..

My Dongle does NOT support BLC?? I did get it working when I selected that sView program for EDimensional Glasses..
Even My 3D Vision Glasses worked with the SView Program and I could reverse the Eyes..HMMMM Perhaps there is some hope..

I also updated the Drivers to the new WHQL Ones 295. it still has CRT Support.. I was told nVidia Eleminated it???
But I did get the ED Glasses Working but boy are they SMALL and I cant see All the Screens as easy as with the nVidia Vision glasses..

I am hoping to sell these OLD DLP Projectors and get some new ones..

more...

So when you used your nvidia glasses upside-down, were all three PJs in sync? That's really cool.

Glad to hear the good news regarding sView as well as ED-Activator. Did you figure out why it didn't work before? You should use it on the desktop before you start a game. Did you try to use it during a game? It can work but it's annoying how it switches to the desktop. Try to make your desktop the same res and freq as your game. If it's a different freq, then sometimes the dongle doesn't like it and flickers the glasses badly. When you use the Activator, you see colors across the tops of all three screens right? It should work fine that way. When you used sView before, did all three displays get affected when you went fullscreen (center-PJ image, side-PJs black)?

Please test BLC again with sView while using a single PJ (the one the dongle's connected to of course). Look for blue lines on the bottom of the screen. Also don't forget to run it in fullscreen mode. And try to remember what year you got it although that's not so important.

step 1: get the eDim glasses shuttering... done.

step 2: get the eDim dongle to trigger the nvidia glasses
You probably guessed this one and maybe you did it already. Go ahead and connect your adapter cable from the eDim dongle to the nvidia USB hub / IR emitter. Try this without the inverter first just to make sure this works. Hopefully the nvidia glasses will start to shutter automatically once the hub gets the signal. If they don't then we might need some outside help regarding how to change nvidia driver settings so that the hub uses the input signal. Your adapter cable is not homemade is it? It should have a 3-pin DIN on one end and a 2.5mm stereo plug on the other. You should not connect the wired glasses jack to the usb hub. That should not work since the signals are not compatible.

step 3: try step 2 with the inverter
If the dongle can trigger the hub, then try it with the inverter. If that works, then you should be able to use the switch on the inverter to do any needed parallax inversion and we're sort of done unless we want to experiment some more for a better solution. Is your inverter homemade? It has a switch on it right? Or a timing delay dial?

If step 3 doesn't work, you might be able to get away with stopping after step 2. You might be able to toggle 3dvision off/on until you get the right eye-sync just by luck but that's too annoying IMHO.

An alternate fix:
Maybe you noticed the thread about shaders. I wonder if a shader can be made that displays the previous frame instead of the current frame. That would fix your problem without all this rigamarole. Unfortunately, I only know a little bit about shader programming and it's not enough to know if this is possible.

I'll talk a little more later.

--- iondrive ---

oh, hi neph, I see you're online now.

Well I bought those ED Glasses proablly back in 2003-04?? I tried hooking up the nVidia Emitter to the ED Dongle it gets NO Signal or DOES NOT come on and it goes into ANAGLYPH Mode in SVIEW with FULL SCREEN.,.

I need the Emitter plugged into the USB Port to work correctly or the nVidia drivers realise I do NOT have Certified Projectors or a CRT and they SHUT OFF the 3D Vision

Well not sure what else to do I am just going to start saving for those Projectors..

Right, don't unplug the emitter from the usb port. Leave that in all the time.

Get to the desktop with no glasses shuttering.
Connect emitter to dongle. Also have the wired eDim glasses connected at the same time. Activate dongle with ED-Activator. Verify eDim glasses are shuttering. Check if nvidia glasses are shuttering. If not, then go ahead and try a game in s3d and check if nvidia glasses shutter now. If so, try with switch as in step 3 above.

So, the BenQ's you want won't have a parallax inversion problem? Or do they have their own 3-pin DIN sync output?

--- iondrive ---

Hey I think it worked LOL!! well it Shutters anyhow.. I will try with the inverter but I dont think it isd reversed I will Double chekc that ingame..

Oh and I remember what I dod from the 3D Flight Sim Website. they had a little guide on HOW to Check for Parralex Inversion and I did that to find out I have it with the Current Sharp XR10XL Projectors HEHE!!

Will brb with Report..

EDIT: OK BACK Before I say it works what is the BEST Way to check for Parralex Inversion?? But I think it is working??

YAAAAAAAYYYY!!!!

Questions:
When do the nvidia's start shuttering? After ED-Activator or after game-start?
Does your inverter have a switch and a dial?

Here's how I check for parallax inversion when I'm not sure.

EDIT: try this first cause it's simpler (copied from my next post)
just compare the view with glasses normal and upside-down. One of them will look better. That's the non-inverted view... if it looks better upside-down, then it's inverted.

Increase convergence, close one eye. The entire scene should slide towards your nose if they are correct (increased convergence means more cross-eyed). If not then you have inversion. Opposite effect for decreasing convergence... views SHOULD move away from nose. Nvidia's separation control is a little strange so you should not use this technique with separation, only convergence.

OH I do NOT Need the ED Activator it is working CORRECTLY with the nVidia Glasses I just need to be sure with a method to check for Parralex Inversion..


NO IT is Automatic Switch it just works well with the Old ED Glasses it just worked no Switch on it..

NO DIAls or anythng so how do I Double check for Inversion??YIPPPEEEEEE!!! I think it works

"NO IT is Automatic Switch it just works well with the Old ED Glasses it just worked no Switch on it.."

Oh, darn!!! You need a switch because you should just get a 50% chance of it being correct or not. From other posts, once you set it correct, then it should be good for the duration of your game. For now, you just have to toggle s3d off/on until you see it's right.

I guess an easier way to test for inversion is just increase separation (or not) and just compare view with glasses reversed and non-reversed. One of them will look better.

Oh, wait. Don't need the activator? Hmmm, then it must be getting a signal on pin 12 of the VGA port. Strange. Oh well, keep testing and see.

OK Will do some more testing BRB..But I thought the inverter will fix the Inversion??



EDIT: It is 99% Fixed it is NOT INVERTED AT ALL. I even switched the game Stereo OFF/On a Couple times it kept working CORRECTLY

Well now that we got well mostly You I just Pulled Plugs and whats left of my hair HAHA!! there is a SLIGH Ghost and it is like a Bluish color but hardly Noticible at all in BRIGHT AREAS MAYBE MORE????

But this is FIXED NO NEED TO GET NEW PROJECTORS..Except fro the Slight Blue Ghosting 99% FIXED!! THNX SO MUCH..

IF you drink let me know I owe you a 6 pack of your FAVORITE BREW OR Botle of Spirits or something !! SERIOUSLY!!

If nvidia puts a stereo sync signal on pin 12, then you can use the dongle in DDC mode and you won't need a switch, just an inverter. If this is true, then don't use the activator since it will override DDC mode. I didn't expect nvidia to use the DDC triggering method so using the activator means it just turns on the glasses without knowing which eye-view is showing... 50% chance of being right. Then you need a switch so you don't have to fiddle with toggling s3d off/on till it looks right. Maybe we can do better with some more ideas using shaders or something.

thanks...
You're welcome! It makes me happy to get some success from fixing an annoying problem. Also someone else will come along and be able to read this to fix their problem too. Maybe I'll just ask you to do some testing for me if I have some crazy ideas and that'll be thanks enough. But it will always be OK if you don't have time or something. I don't really want you to feel in debt. So you really don't need to use the activator? Huh, weird.

--- iondrive ---

Good to know this works so I will know more about what to expect for when I eventually get my own 3dvision.

Oh yeah, I still want you to do that single PJ BLC test if you don't mind. (at your leisure, take a week if you want. enjoy some gaming now)
Also, we'll see how this goes after you use this setup for a while. Then we'll really know if you don't need a switch.

OK Let me say what I did.

I hooked the Dongle and the Inverter up and Plugged the Dongle 3 pin to the 2.5mm Stereo pin into the 3D Vision emitter and it know works 100% of the time no need to click a switch it just works like it did before..

NOT sure why it works and I dont care it works.. let me know I can send you some cash to get yourself your Favorite 6 pack or whatever you like....

no, no cash, just do some testing for me someday, at your discretion.

OK, well I'm very happy now.

If this didn't sync right, then I was thinking of making a shader that adds BLC to frame-sequential games if that's at all possible, but that could only work with DX9 games so far.

I've been reading some of your other posts. Boy you have alot of them. Saw your Jane's flight sim pics. cool.

going offline now, CU later.

hehe OK Let me know what you wanna test ill be good to do it anytime..

Yes alot of post throughout the years.. you should see Falcon 4 BMS 4.32 on my setup there are some pics in the OLD SCHOOL forum under Virtual Flight Simulator

.. they did some nice mods to that sim..


i DO Notice slight Ghosting very hard to see but it is there.. it may be the glasses this time??? I may buy the new Vision 2 glasses for the bigger size and new design..

You where also right about me needing to turn OFF/ON the 3D Effect to get the inversion to work right.. Seems a small price to pay but once you get it right it just works perhaps unless you minimize the game or quit and come back..

OK I think I got this right but the Cross eyed thing is confusing me.. here is the Following DEFAULT Keys for nVidia Convergance:


1. Increase Convergence === CTRL+F6
2. Decrease Convergence === CTRL+F5

Now when I kepress CTRL+F6 it moves Towards my nose..So I got it working but I need the ED Activator to BE ON?? I thought last time it was OFF?? But NP IT works with it on so NO Big Deal maybe it was ON before I just didn't notice in my Excitement..

I will try the Single Projector BLC Tomorrow or when Im bored but soon OK!!

EDIT: WEll I have at least I think the Glasses are wearing out and need to be replaced.. There are Color anomolies near the outer lens left and Right Outer part.. I also still see the Ghosting altho NOT as Pronounced but still there..

I am going to go ahead and buy another pair and see what happens after that..I think I am going to get the 3D Vision 2 pair..


REEDIT: Having been up all night and reviewing this that was my final decision the GLASSES are BURNT and near death.. So I decided to give the Inverter trick andothere try this time with the new Glasses I just ordered.. I bought the nVidia 3D Vision 2 Glasses..

The Graphic Anomolies where being caused by the FAN NOT Spinning at the Proper speed I had selected for a user config.. it always shuts off and goes back to Auto which for an OC Card is TOO SLOW.. I got it fixed now no damage just some anomolies. User Defined Config is in Full Effect..

wow, there's always more to talk about. haha.

Let's start with ED-Activator. Once you use it to activate the dongle and turn on the ED glasses, it stays on all the time. You can leave the eDim wired glasses connected and treat them as an indicator light to tell you when the dongle is active. Once you use the activator, they should keep shuttering even if you play multiple games and go to/from the desktop and turn on/off 3dvision. This may have been why you thought you didn't need it. It may even keep shuttering after a reboot if you did not turn off your computer. To shut off the dongle, you need to use the off function of the ED-Activator or power down the computer. This is good to know because your dongle can get stuck "on" if your system crashes or something.

"Antialiasing Gamma Correction was on"
I saw this in your other thread. So that caused the red problem, right? I'm not sure but this might have made your activator not work if it was screwing up the color stripes at the top of the screen.

Step 2a: try that registry trick again
I think it's worth trying this with the new setup. Set "GlassesSwitchDelay" to "1" and hit alt-equals seven times. Take your finger off the alt key each time. Do this with the glasses on with 3d mode active and just watch the screen for inversion. alt-minus to undo. Maybe this only works with an external sync signal like we're using now. Reset to zero when done.

Step 2b: get/make a switchable inverter
It looks like once the 3dvision "decides" on "odd" or "even" frames, it might seem to stick with that for a while so you might not have a 50/50 change over short periods of time when you toggle 3dvision off/on. You may decide to use the ED-Activator to off/on the dongle. If you can solder and you don't need a time-delay feature, then I'm going to refer you to my "parallax inversion fix" thread again.
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4661
Skip to post 4 and use the schematic that shows the switch. It'll be up to you to design the thing so that the switch is conveniently positioned for you to hit when needed. If you need a delay circuit then we'll have to find another schematic for you. Maybe from one of RageDemon's posts or that flight sim post guy.

inversion detection:
first try using the glasses upside-down and normal and just see which is better. It may be obvious. If not, then you might want to increase Separation and it might be obvious then. Regarding Convergence, yes, you did it right but it might be easier to remember "decrease" (Ctl-F5) because then, left-view moves left, right-view moves right (views diverge). That indicates correct viewing. Another way is to find some distant tower or mountain or possibly sun/clouds and view it without the glasses so you see the double image of it. Then look through the left lens and the right image of the thing should be blocked. That indicates correct viewing. This might not always work because some games have distant things at the wrong depth.

Fan problems:
Wow, I don't think I would have figured that one out. You still have a little blue ghosting, right?

up all night:
Oh man, now you have to sleep for a day. I've been there before. hah.

I have a little more to say but I'll save it. That's enough for now. L8r.

--- iondrive ---

YES Most of the red shift probally was from that. I did NOTICE the Glasses are older now 2 years ++ and they are red tint on the innerside of the lens so that could have made what I saw red.. I ordered a new pair of 3D Glasses so hopefully within the week I'll get them..I got the nVidia 3D Vision2 Pair of 1..

I was going to try the registry trick but the Entry is wrong on that link you just posted was wrong.. I went to the old link and this is the reg entry:

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D Find an entry called "GlassesSwitchDelay".
Set it to decimal 27.
Start a 3d test.


EDIT: reg entry did NOT work ....


OK Thread 4 had the inverter with the CHIP in it right?? do I need to put in a 3 way switch with that as well??? I would appreciate you helping me more with designing this thingie.. I can get the Bread Board at Radio shack not sure if they have the Chip and the Plugs or not will find out if I go tonight..


So Also note that this Lil board thing is going to turn the Inversion OFF/On at the flick of a switch and I will NOT have to turn it off and on multiple times like I currently do with the emitter??

I am NOT sure I understand fully why I am going to make this Switch for??

"Yes" to your last question.

I have to go now. I'll edit this post later to add more...

Back now, yes, switch is for enabling the inverter only when needed. If BLC worked with your setup, then we might not need a switch but I think chances for that are slim.

Another registry tweak...
If you want to, let's see if the nvidia driver can output BLC. In that same registry location as before, set StereoViewerType to 16 decimal (remember the original value so you can change it back later). Then make a new dword entry called LineColorCode and set it to ff. Then try some game in 3d. Don't run the nvidia control panel or use the nvidia test since it might reset StereoViewerType. Look for thin blue lines on the bottom of the screen when in 3d. If this works, there's a chance you might not need the switch. When done, set StereoViewerType back to what it was before (I expect it should be 1). Go ahead and delete LineCodeColor. I don't really expect this to work but there's a chance it might. You should probably try this in single monitor mode but it's OK with me if you don't want to bother.

Comments:
OK well, if I'm planning on getting the 3dvision some day I might need the same thing as you so I can go ahead and make one for myself. Don't buy a breadboard unless you want one for some other reason. This project is pretty simple and might not even need a circuit board. I thought we might modify your inverter but after consideration, it might be better to make a second thing and not screw with your present one. Describe your inverter if you want. Is it like a box or a cable or both?

Ideas:
Right now, I think the best idea I have is to make this out of easy-to-find common parts and make it like a box with a push-button toggle switch that you could put on the floor if you want and use it as a footswitch. How does that sound? The switch should be a SPDT (single-pole dual-throw). Of course you could put it on your desk too. The box and switch need to be a little strong for footswitch use. Basically, it would look like my other wired inverter/junction box using stereo jacks instead of 3-pin DINs since things will be easier to find that way. You would not use your current inverter and use your current DIN-stereo plug adapter cable. Plug that into your dongle and plug the 2.5mm stereo plug into the box. The box would have two stereo jacks, one 2.5mm jack and one 1/8 inch (standard audio) jack. Then you could connect the box to the emitter using a standard audio cable (male-male) with a 1/8 inch to 2.5mm plug adapter on the end. It sounds a little complicated but I'll make some pictures. I'm off to the Shack now. C'ya

what switch do I need to get a 2 pole or 3 pole?? I am also wondering how to put it all together?? do I need to get a Circuit board or just use the bread board?? or just solder all the pieces to gether and stick it in a box??

Hi again,

OK well I sort of changed my mind about the design for myself and went back to the original and modified it. You can see it in the other thread at the top of page 2.
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4661&p=71534#p71534

Some of this construction was a little difficult but it's good practice for me. After doing this, I think it might be better/easier/cheaper for you to just modify your inverter... no need to order parts, just buy/find one switch and wiring and it should work. So go ahead and describe your inverter or take a picture. If the inverter is not easily reachable, then you can make the wires going to the switch longer so the switch can be located better. If you want to stick with my previous idea using audio jacks, then I'll make a picture/diagram for you. Finally, if you want to toggle inversion using "The Clapper" then we'll have to get outside help.

another software approach?
There's a thread about coding for the usb hub. I have to find a link but it mentions a keystroke combination to reverse the sync. This would be nice but I/you need to read more in that thread to see if you can/want to try it. The author cautions that trying it might cause problems. Let's see if I can find it. Here it is:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3130&p=23830&hilit=3dvision+code#p23830
It's 7 pages and I don't have time to read it right now. Maybe it's just for special homemade apps and OpenGL.

hah, the clapper.

By the_nephilim at 2008-04-03



it has on the insiode mostly resistors from what I can see. but it has a black plastic fill making it impossible to work on anything inside the box.. If you want an inside pic let me know or If we can put the switch from outside I am all ears for that solution..a little schematic of the switch into the 3 pin din wires.. I can solder and stuff..



EDIT: I may have found a Solution to all these troubles.. I was reading that thread on ChrisJarams setup that race simulator and he stated ltr on that same setup using the nVidia emitter and using a Pair of Crystaleyes 2-3 3D Glasses the 3D Was Flawless..

So I was thinking maybe the new CE4 Would be similar and work for me.. I would take a real gamble here as he stated he was not 100% Sure it was going to work for others but I dont see why it will NOT.. HE had basically the same Projectors I have and he stated the Red Shift Ghosting was a sync issure from the Color wheel..

But with the CE3 Glasses it was Flawless 3D.. I am wondering thos will the CE4 Be the same as the 2 and 3 Models compatibility wise??

Thinking outside the box (pun intended)

Hi neph,

OK well it looks like you have some choices but if you want to use the simplest hardware hack then you can hack into both the inverter cable and the nvidia cable to install an inverter bypass switch. However, there might be some issues that you're not be comfortable with:

- wires may be thin and delicate and you may not be comfortable working with them.
- this idea "marries" the two cables treating them as one. You may want to keep them separable.

If you decide to go ahead with this project, here's the diagram I made with Paint. It turned out nice. Yay Paint. Trivia: used gif which was 90x smaller than bmp image format. wow.



You'll see that on the inverter cable, you don't really cut the signal wire, just add a branch coming off of it. In the nvidia cable, you DO cut it and attach those two new ends to the switch. Just make sure the stereo-plug-side connects to the center terminal of the switch.

Meter this:
Before you start cutting, use your multimeter and make sure things are wired the way I think they are. Check your nvidia cable and make sure that the tip of the stereo plug connects to the center DIN pin on the other end. If you want to meter more, you can plug in both cables like normal, then disconnect the stereo plug from the usb emitter and use ED-Activator to activate the dongle. Check that the wired glasses are shuttering, then you can verify 5V DC on the ring of the stereo plug compared to the sleeve. You can even, switch to metering AC Volts and check for voltage on the tip compared to the sleeve. The signal is a 5V square wave so the meter should show something between 0 and 5. Obviously, be careful not to short anything together.

Finding the signal wires:
Basically, to find the right wires to cut or branch from, you have to cut the jacket of the cables, and then sort out the wires inside, then use a sewing needle to gently poke through the wire insulation. On the nvidia cable, meter from the stereo plug tip to the needle checking for continuity. This will tell you if you have the right wire, otherwise you have to needle another wire. Unfortunately, I have no better ideas about finding the right wire other than this trial and error guessing game method. At least there's only three wires. Electrical tape any big holes you make and don't make needle pricks too close to each other. Heat shrink can also be good on any wires you cut. On the inverter cable, meter from the needle to the middle pin on the DIN.

If you don't like this solution, I'm still willing to draw/describe another stereo-plug-using box idea.

How did another weekend sneak up on us? C'ya.

--- iondrive ---

OK Looks OK I think I could manage this.. I do have 1 question is it the same switch you mentioned before?? Or is it another switch??

Which switch was it again??

well, the switch I used was the only SPDT Push on/off switch they had in-store, RadioShack part number 275-1555, but you might prefer something smaller or a rocker switch or a sliding switch. Choose whatever style you like as long as it's SPDT. You can just meter the terminals to make sure it works the way you think it does. The "problem" with this switch is that there's no way to tell if you're bypassing the inverter or not since the pushbutton looks exactly the same either way, there's no indicator. This is not really a problem since It's not important to know that info. You just hit it if you need to and don't worry about if it's bypassing or not, as long as it works. The other problems with this switch is that it's pretty tall so I had to make it stick out of the box as much as possible in order to fit the rest of it inside the 1 inch height and it barely fit then. I expect to post a photo on the other thread later tonight. If I wasn't making a footswitch, I think I would have chosen a rocker (possibly circuit-board mountable). A rocker should work nicely if you plan to just attach it to the cable. On the other hand, if you happen to have some switch lying around that is DPDT and you want to use that, then you could just use one-half of that and it should work fine. A DPDT should have six terminals arranged in two rows of three. Choose one of those rows (ignoring the other) and it should work like a SPDT switch. Just meter those three terminals using different switch positions and make sure it works like you think.

Wire length:
I forgot to mention the obvious, that you can choose longer wires for the magenta wires in the diagram so that you can have the switch positioned further away from the cables but I'm not sure of any max length limits.

Thin wire warning:
I just hope that the wires aren't so thin that poking them with a needle might break them.

married cables: a future divorce?
I mentioned that this wires the two cables together, but I just wanted to say that if you ever want to use either cable on it's own again and trash this setup, you can just cut that one wire that goes to the inverter cable, and then the inverter will work like it did before and the nvidia cable will also work like before as long as you keep the switch in the right position. One cut, and the cables will be divorced. ,

A little apology:
Sorry we couldn't get this working automatically without a switch. It's a little bit of a pain, but not too bad. I think it's tolerable. Any word on the two BLC tests in single projector mode? (sView and also setting StereoViewerType to 0x10 to see if the nvidia driver generates BLC) You might not need the switch if both things worked. Also, you could use old iZ3D drivers for some older games. I'm just not sure about 3-projector mode. Do you have iZ3D or Tridef drivers licenses?

OK before we go any further is there anything that can be done with the Color Sync Issues I am getting now?? It is that Red shift Ghosting probally a color sync issue???

I did the StereoViewer to 0 and that did NOT do anything NO BLC at the bottom???I do NOT get any BLC with Single Projector??

I also just tried the IZ3D Drivers they woulf not start the emitter.. in the test image I saw a double image but was NOT able to get my glasses to come on???



I am going to play around with the Ghosting issue and see if it is still there with the Dongle removed and just using nVidias Emitter.. If it is still there that was because In one of thos threads they mentioned that by using the ED 3D Glasses the Ghosting shoulf NOT be there well it was but it was a whitish Ghosting slight but still there??

I am NOT sure why now all of a sudden I am getting this Ghosting issue like I get but I am really just considering getting NEW DLP Projectors..

But IF we can get a soltion for the Red shift Ghosting By the way I see it in BOTH Eyes.. I could possibly keep these Current DLP Projectors a bit longer..


EDIT: Once I take off the Dongle and just use the nVidia Emitter the Ghosting is Nearly Eliminated to about below 1%..So it is Definetely the ED Dongle Causing my Ghosting ,, So what can be done ??

Good troubleshooting neph.

short answer: try it at 85 Hz (and 60 just to test it), also try setup without inverter in case inverter is the cause of some delay.

long answer:
Yes, most likely it's a color-sync issue and, just for fun, I'll describe a crazy way to prove it later but right now it looks like your easiest chance to do something about it is just try some different frequencies. You normally like 75 Hz, right? Try 60, 70 and 85 Hz. I'm not sure if ghosting will all be red but there's a chance it might. I found this web page with your PJ stats so I see it can go to 85 Hz.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sharp-XR-10XL.htm
Do those stats look right to you? I see it says the colorwheel has 4 segments, probably red, green, blue, and white. Anyway, you were probably thinking that you might need a time-delay circuit now and it seems like that should work but I need to think about this some more. It looks like it's time to say "dang it all". But before you do those freq changes, let me ask/tell you some things.

I expect that you see the red ghosting with the eDim glasses too. Is this true? If so, here's how I want you to test those freqs. Use the dongle with the Activator and the ED glasses but don't connect the nvidia adapter cable. Start some game in 3d that is easy to see the red ghosting on. Some game with alot of white like a winter scene should be good but whatever. Now you can look through either pair of glasses and compare them easily. From your previous tests, the ED glasses should show the ghosting while the nvidia don't. Now try that with each frequency that you care to try. Just remember to exit the game, de-Activate the dongle, change freq, re-Activate the dongle, start the game and get it running in the new freq, same as the desktop. Yes, it's a hassle but you might find it works at 85 Hz. Hmmm, you probably don't want to run at 70 or 60 Hz but try them anyway because it might help me figure out what's going on. Try, at least 60 and 85. I'm sort of expecting 60 to be good but if they all have the same red ghosting, then most likely, a delaying circuit will work. I think RAGEDemon had some schematic posted for such a circuit.

BLC
well, if sView doesn't work in single-projector BLC mode, then it looks like eDim didn't have that circuitry in their dongles back when you bought it. I guess we can forget about BLC.

circuitry delay?
Could the inverter be causing the sync-signal delay? I wouldn't think so but I wonder. In the specs for that inverter chip that I used, it says the propagation delay is like 10 nanoseconds while one frame at 75 Hz is 13,333,333 ns, so too small to cause color-sync ghosting which is why I didn't mention it. Too bad things can't be easier/nicer. I'm not sure where we'll go from here.

UPDATE: To check if the inverter is causing the red ghosting, take it out. Just connect the eDim dongle straight to the usb emitter and check 3d with the activator. If the inverter is the cause, your ghosting should be gone.

OK You got it Backwards I saw the Red Ghosting with the nVidia Glasses the most. and with the ED Glasses it looked like a White Ghosting..

Long Story Short It looks BEST at 3072x768 "70Hz" 32bit.. the Bit rate didnt do much but the frequency change the Higher I went the More NOTICABLE it was..

At 60 HZ the Glasses DO NOT Shutter.. At 85 with this Projector you get SEVERE Ghosting and not sure if you heard about this and this paticular model INK BLOTCH Problem at 85 HZ..it kinda looks like Ink Blots in some scenes and Psychadelic in the others but Long Story SHORT I Can only set the Hz to 70 or 75hz..


viewtopic.php?p=6229

At 70 HZ it seemed less of a ghosting effect..NO Matter what
I had hooked up the dongle with the inverter. it all looked the same So I do NOT Think it is the Dongle or the Inverter causing my Ghosting???

It is still there with the ED Glasses but the Ghosting is White in color and not too Noticable..but at higher HZ the RED Ghosting Gets REAL BAD with the nVidia glasses. I also been noticing some Bluish ghosting too..

70hz seems like the sweet spot and not to bad a hz to game in still with the DLP PRojectors it is NOT like a CRT the DLP can be lower and not notice the flicker as bad as the same hz on a CRT..

that link to the Projector is the EXACT Same Projectors I have GOOD Place that Projector Central. that is where I Browsed when I was looking to get my Projectors good info there on most Projectors..

I just want to put out there NOT sure if it is related but just thought I would mention it incase it is relevant..When I did that one Reg hack to change the timer delay after that is when I started experiencing ALL this Ghosting .. I never had so much Ghosting before near NONE at All but very minor and hardly noticable..



EDIT: I found this in the Chrisjarram thread and wanted to know what you thought of using Crystal Eyes 4 as a solution to my Ghosting sync issues:


Quote from Chris:
More test results from last night. I tried the nvidia emitter with my XR-10-x and CrystalEyes (I 5xCE3 and 3xCE2, and all work fine with the nvidia emitter so I think its safe to say this is CE-compatible but don't state me on that! . The results were FLAWLESS - zero ghosting, eyes the right way round and perfect timing right out of the box (no need for eDimensional VGA dongle- this is down to a conveinient set of coincidences in the timing. With the nvidia glasses there is a slight red ghosting (due to the colour wheel sync) which can be resolved with the hardware mentioned above..